dabangsta

Do you have the Check Engine Light on? The 2019 has a redesigned block and engine compared to the one that exhibits coolant intrusion. It could be related to the EGR cooler. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10177867-0001.pdf

AWD has larger brakes that require an 18 inch wheel. But yes, the same model tire with the same overall dimensions seem to be around $50 less for a 17 than for an 18 inch wheel (about 25% cheaper, like from $240 to $190). If you feel you need to replace the rims anyways (financially also needing to buy rims that are smaller would add up to more than just tires) then might be worth it. Cheaper tires, more selection, more sidewall for a better ride and better handling of curb hopping/hitting and potholes, all good reasons go with a smaller rim.

Are these aftermarket 21 inch wheels (as 2011 has 17, 18, 20, 22)? If it is FWD you probably can go down to a 17 inch wheel and taller tire, AWD the smallest you can run would be 18. Smaller wheel, taller sidewall for more protection on curbs and pot holes. I would probably go with an 18 inch even if FWD, but most of the AT tires are available in both P235/65R17 and P245/60R18 (and the 17 inch wheel options are much cheaper for the same tire). The Goodyear Assurance Weatherready2 are highly rated (I put these on my FWD Fusion that lives in Denver for snow, not dirt/gravel roads or off roading), less AT and more snow rated, the Firestone Destination AT2 is more offroad all terrain oriented.

Unlike most of my past vehicles, I have never given it much thought. I think it is the same as my 2012 Fusion, an O-ring on the flat that contacts the pan. I did 60 oil changes on my previous car (a 2000 Grand Marquis, with 330,000 miles) with the same drain plug, I never swapped it or the O-ring. I am only at 150,000 on my Fusion (Sport, with the 3.5), and I also go closer to 10,000 miles (so far fewer oil changes), but I haven't seen any weeping or leaks from it either. Dorman and other aftermarket companies sell similar plugs for $1 - $3, some generic ones with harder plastic gaskets. There also seem to be replacement gaskets for about the same price.

That is the 8F57 specs (full plus 1 quart), the 8F35 is just fill to the bottom of the sight plug.

As mentioned, it depends on the year. 2019+ has a disconnect in the PTU.

Should go away. Mine are growly if only my wife drives it for any amount of time (2-3 weeks). She is not an aggressive braker and once I drive it once there is no hint of noise for a few weeks. It took me quite a while to get rid of the machine marks on the rotors, maybe 1000 miles? She is the primary daily driver of it. I drive it occasionally during the week, but I am the long distance vacation driver. I went with the same rotors but a less aggressive pad.

Lincoln MKX and Nautilus are on the same platform as the Edge (Nautilus 2024 and newer is on a new platform built in China). MKC and Corsair are on the Escape platform.

Now or at some point in the past this vehicle likely had an amp and sub woofer in the "trunk", that is low gauge wiring for the amplifier, that clear plastic part is a fuse.

Weird, I doubt it checks the turn signal position in remote start, that is the only time I have seen one side off.

You mention during remote start, is it only then, or have you checked? I am not sure how the high level adaptive lights behave, my mid level (not adaptive, but with signature lighting) both sides come on always and when remote started (it is usually in the shade or at night, so I get my fog lights and amber marker lights on the side, might be due to switch setting and light sensor?).

Did you find a source that wasn't $10-15 in shipping? I bought mine from China as the cheapest I could find, but it was in the territory of buying a Dongar adapter, but I would rather DIY. What sized crimpers did you use? I have 5 sets of these but all my pin crimpers are either too small (the 2.54 Dupont sized, or the next size up), or too large.

Does it "work" if you put it into the emergency slot in the center console and press the Start button? Work meaning still recognized as a programmed key chip but not for proximity or remote entry?

Normal operating conditions? 150,000 miles(!?!?!?!?!) Towing, using a car top carrier, extensive idling, low speed driving, sandy or dusty conditions? every 30,000 miles

All I have ever found was a specialized screw driver bit that was broken in half, under the carpet of an older Ford. https://fordauthority.com/2025/07/assembly-workers-wallet-found-inside-2015-ford-edge-after-11-years-video/amp/

Battery change is only the small back, it doesn't split it in half to expose the circuit board. Is it enough to dump alcohol in and then let it dry? Probably.

Is it still detected if you place it in the emergency backup slot and try to start the vehicle (if it isn't detected if just inside the cabin)? If it is, I personally would buy a used OEM fob off eBay to replace it. You need to make sure you get the right one (remote start or not), and make sure you already don't have 4 keys programmed in. I picked up an OEM fob for $30 off eBay, but unfortunately the previous owner lost 2 keys, so it has 4 programmed in already, so I can't simply add one. There are replacement cases for them, but I can't tell if you can non destructively pull the case apart or not, it seems sonic welded but I don't have one to sacrifice to test it. I only find videos for other keys, mostly because they are more likely to be broken than these.

Thanks, I updated it because I was wrong. 2016 might require a USB hub update to work with CarPlay (had to swap it on a 2016 Escape, but not a 2017).

That is SYNC with MyFord Touch (SYNC 2). The Edge had that 2013-2015 2013-2016. 20172016-2020 is SYNC 3. 2021+ is SYNC 4A. 2007-2012 is SYNC with voice activated nav. Only 2013 and newer, SYNC3/4a support Carplay. I don't know if the early SYNC 3 in this vehicle needs an updated hub for CarPlay (I don't think it does). There are various options if it has SYNC2 and CarPlay, very DIY or kits to SYNC 3, or some add on boards. Edited to fix year range, I got it wrong (I focused on SYNC Connect and not SYNC)

It is interesting that the 2.0 FHEV is both port and DI, I didn't know that. Some vehicles with the 2.3 got dual injection in 2024. (I know other engines got it earlier) Port Injection is more for when it is idling and moderate throttle position (it helps with misfires at low speeds compared to DI), and under demand or high throttle position it uses the Direct Injection.

Try Lock/Unlock/Lock if it is an aftermarket recently released device. Ford dealer installed remote start is a separate fob with a single button.

You might want to ask if anyone can post the connector pinout and wire colors for your 2023 for the rear view mirror and the rain sensor. It pulls straight away from the windshield, there are 4 clips that hold it in place:

You should pop off the cover like it says and check. My 2019 SEL has 5 pin wiring to the rear view mirror, I was able to find the male and female connectors and pins to make my own harness to get switched 12v from the rear view mirror. I wasn't willing to spend $42 on a Dongar adapter, or $150 like the one you posted.

FWD is 19 gallons, AWD is 20 gallons.

That is called the Backup slot. That is where you would place your key fob if the battery was dead, or for some other reason it wasn't detected in the cabin (try to start and it says "no key detected"). Also it can be used to program a new key, and to get your securicode door keypad code.