wes8398 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Gave the car a wash yesterday and left it in accessory mode for my Bride while I washed it (its winter, so the wash was at a DIY commercial wash). After about 12 minutes, I was done. Unfortunately so was the battery though. I had to push it out of the wash bay and have it boosted to start. Thought maybe water from the wash got in somewhere it shouldn't have but it started fine a number of times afterward. A few hours later I had it sitting in accessory mode in the driveway for about 20 minutes while I vacuumed it out, etc. Again, just a "click" when I tried to start it. Had to boost it again. Is it normal that such a short period of time in accessory mode can kill the battery? I had the battery tested and it was showing 480 CCA's (battery has 540 CCA's stamped on it), and proper voltage. I also put my multi meter on it while running and it was showing proper charging voltage (14.3 ish). Is the battery on the outs or what? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 The battery is bad. Doesn't matter how it tests, it's bad. It's 3-4 years old. It's bad. If you pull the caps the fluid level is probably low. You can add distilled water and you may get a few more months. But the battery will fail again and you'll end up replacing it. I would just replace it and be done with it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes8398 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 akirby, thanks for the reply. May I ask how you're so sure about the conclusion you've drawn though? I'm fairly mechanically inclined myself and I've done most of my own basic vehicle maintenance for 10+ years... Can't say I have a WHOLE bunch of experience with batteries, but this symptom is new to me. And a battery being junk after 3 or 4 years is new to me as well. I've read lots of electrically related issues with these Edge's, so I naturally jumped to conclusions such as bad grounds, loose connections, and things like that. If it is most definitely just a matter of replacing the battery, then I'm a happy camper. I just don't want to waste the money on a blind guess though. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I've NEVER had a battery last more than 3 - 3.5 years. OEM, gold, platinum, doesn't matter. Of course I'm in the Southern U.S. where heat plays a major part. But newer vehicles have far more electronics and seem to be causing many more battery problems. Between several Ford forums I've seen dozens of similar problems including many where the battery tests ok and replacing the battery solved the problems. I'm not saying you don't have some type of electrical problem that's draining the battery. I'm just saying that at this point the battery is toast and probably needs to be replaced based on past experience regardless of whether it tests ok or not. You'd still want to follow up on any unusual current draws. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwf78155 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Go buy an OPTIMA...... I went through batteries on my two Corvettes like oil changes...until I got an Optima Never replaced another battery...a little pricey but peace of mind and never getting stranded is worth every penny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Definitely check for parasitic draw like akirby said. Unhook the negative terminal, connect an ammeter between the negative cable terminal and the negative battery post to see how much current is being drawn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes8398 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Thanks fellas. I did mention that this drain does NOT happen when the car is completely off, right? I only had it happen with the car sitting in accessory mode. Overnight, etc it still starts fine. Just seems to drain very quickly when it's not being charged by the alternator. Thanks for the reassurances that it's likely just an easy and relatively inexpensive battery replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes8398 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 By the way "RWF78155", are you the same guy that chimed in about Optima batteries on almost every post that came up in my Google search for "ford edge dead battery"? I can't help but draw a conclusion or two here... ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) Thanks fellas. I did mention that this drain does NOT happen when the car is completely off, right? I only had it happen with the car sitting in accessory mode. Overnight, etc it still starts fine. Just seems to drain very quickly when it's not being charged by the alternator. Thanks for the reassurances that it's likely just an easy and relatively inexpensive battery replacement. Check the amp draw in accessory position. Must be huge to drain it in 10-15 minutes if the battery is otherwise sound. Besides, if the CCA is down to 480, that's almost 15% less than rated. 550 is barely enough to run everything as is, worse in cold weather. An option is to get one of those testers you can plug into the powerpoint that will continuously read Voltage so you can check at various times (engine off, key on engine off, key on engine running, driving around etc). Any accessory plugged into the power points on the vehicle? The ignition switch/headlamp switch could be faulty as well.T The specific mention of the 10 minute period also brings this up from the OM: Accessory delay With accessory delay, the audio system, power windows and moon roof (if equipped) operate for up to 10 minutes after the ignition is turned off or until either front door is opened. Edited January 29, 2015 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 If it died after being in accessory mode for 15 minutes then something had already weakened the battery. It just hadn't completely drained it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFdad13 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 If you are a Costco member go grab one of their group 65 batteries for $89.99. 850cca, 1000ca and 150 min reserve time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes8398 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 (edited) .... So now that we're clear on what caused the dead battery (twice), are you guys still convinced that it's a weak/dying battery, or are you thinking there's something else at play? Check the amp draw in accessory position. Must be huge to drain it in 10-15 minutes if the battery is otherwise sound. Besides, if the CCA is down to 480, that's almost 15% less than rated. 550 is barely enough to run everything as is, worse in cold weather. An option is to get one of those testers you can plug into the powerpoint that will continuously read Voltage so you can check at various times (engine off, key on engine off, key on engine running, driving around etc). Any accessory plugged into the power points on the vehicle? The ignition switch/headlamp switch could be faulty as well.T The specific mention of the 10 minute period also brings this up from the OM: Accessory delayWith accessory delay, the audio system, power windows and moon roof(if equipped) operate for up to 10 minutes after the ignition is turned offor until either front door is opened. I'm not sure that the accessory delay feature is part of the problem here, since it refers to the accessories (radio, MFT display, etc) remaining on once the vehicle is turned off. In this case, I'm referring to having the key turned to accessory mode, so it's not as if there's some "phantom draw" happening. I've told the vehicle to run the accessories while I was doing other things (washing and vacuuming). I've never had a car kill a battery in 15 minutes of being in accessory mode, but this is what's happening here. Maybe the fans were still running (since we had the heat on when the car was running) while it was in accessory mode, and that killed the battery. Or, maybe the battery is on it's last legs and just doesn't hold much of a charge anymore...? To answer your quesiton: No, nothing is/was plugged into any of the power ports in the vehicle. If it died after being in accessory mode for 15 minutes then something had already weakened the battery. It just hadn't completely drained it yet. Of course something weakened the battery - I know that leaving the car in accessory mode will do this. But I've left cars in accessory mode for HOURS before, and they still started fine. This is my question. Does a 'dying' battery hold less of a charge? If so, this would be why 15 or so minutes of the radio/accessories being on drained it enough that it wouldn't start the car. If you are a Costco member go grab one of their group 65 batteries for $89.99. 850cca, 1000ca and 150 min reserve time. I appreciate the suggestion, but I'm not sure I could trust any Wal-Mart house-branded parts in my vehicles. Maybe I'm just being thick-skulled, but I just don't trust it. I'll look into who manufactures for them and see if I can get some technical details to ease my skepticism. On this note though, can you go with a higher CCA/CA battery without any issues? It just has to be a "group 65", right? The rest is interchangeable? Edited January 30, 2015 by wes8398 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Costco usually carries Kirkland or Interstate batteries in my experience, though that may vary by region. Higher CCA is no problem, a little larger & heftier than a standard CCA battery. Batteries in the same group size can vary in physical dimensions, so be sure to measure out your battery tray as well as vertical clearance. Here is an idea of Motorcraft & Interstate battery sizing: http://machenry.com/documents/batteryspecs.pdf http://www.interstatedealers.com/IBCatalog/common/automotive_spec.pdf http://www.interstatebatteries.com/content/product_info/auto_interstate_f.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Costco is not wal-mart - that's sam's club. Given the age of the battery I think it's simply bad. Doesn't necessarily mean there is a problem. Accessory mode isn't the problem - the problem is the battery is bad so accessory mode kills it. Cranking it repeatedly without letting it run for long will do the same thing. Modern cars are killing batteries sooner. At this point you know the battery is bad so just replace it and see if you still have problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes8398 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Thanks for the help, guys. Those Kirkland batteries really have a good reputation, and a hell of a price point! Don't think I'll be getting a Costco membership just for a car battery tho. After doing some reading, even the Walmart EverStarts seem to be pretty quality batteries... And significantly less money than Autozone, Napa, Canadian Tire, Sears, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishx65 Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 I just replaced the battery in my 2011. I put a Johnson Controls 59 in from Advanced Auto but I should have gone with a 65. Just so ya know, there is plenty of room for a 65 even if yours came with a 59. Ontario is a good reason to go with a 65!!!! After a lot of research, I think Johnson Controls is the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulSchott Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Kirkland also makes a dynamite Vodka. It's so good that you won't care if your car starts. LOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Good enough to put a shot in the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Good enough to put a shot in the tank? Yes. And the car, too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes8398 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Hey, while I have the attention of a couple of you guys, can I ask another question? Why can't I get the hazards to work on this damn thing? I see the "button", but it does not press/release like a button. Nor does it respond to touch. What gives? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ls973800 Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Here is an excellent video about the way to test a battery. The common way of load testing and using a volt meter in this video shows the battery to be good, yet it really isn't! I have been lucky and my batteries in the Dallas heat have lasted well over 6 years in every vehicle over the last ten years! Video originally posted by WWWPerfA_ZNOW in response to another battery question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldo Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Hey, while I have the attention of a couple of you guys, can I ask another question? Why can't I get the hazards to work on this damn thing? I see the "button", but it does not press/release like a button. Nor does it respond to touch. What gives? You have to push and hold the button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes8398 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 The button doesn't push in though. Like i tried to explain, its not a "button" that pushes in and out. Its like the MFT/HVAC buttons where it senses your touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Could be defective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted January 31, 2015 Report Share Posted January 31, 2015 2011-2012 have a capacitive button, you touch/hold it for a second to turn on/off the hazards. In 2013 they changed it to a physical button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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