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Spark Plugs


axeman_87

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On 6/17/2019 at 9:24 PM, 1004ron said:

Any pictorials or video on how to change the plugs.

 

On my wife's 3.7L Mustang the intake manifold needs to come off, but even so it's a fairly easy job.

 

On 6/18/2019 at 8:11 AM, Special_K said:

 

@snmjim Should be able to help you.  but the fronts are easy as pie, its the backs that are a straight up PITA.  you have to remove the intake box, rear turbo inlet, and then use skinny hand powers to get them out.

Today, shortly after filling up at Costco, while idling waiting at a light it stumbles/misfired very lightly, and at first I thought it was the female driver on her phone that touched my bumper, but then noticed the tacho also show the irregular beat.

 

No Check Engine light, but will connect Forscan and read the codes this weekend.

 

I'm at 50K miles and planned to do an oil change within a week or two, and will replace the spark plugs with originals.

 

Could someone let me know everything I should order for this job, like intake gasket etc.

 

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55 minutes ago, 1004ron said:

 

Today, shortly after filling up at Costco, while idling waiting at a light it stumbles/misfired very lightly, and at first I thought it was the female driver on her phone that touched my bumper, but then noticed the tacho also show the irregular beat.

 

No Check Engine light, but will connect Forscan and read the codes this weekend.

 

I'm at 50K miles and planned to do an oil change within a week or two, and will replace the spark plugs with originals.

 

Could someone let me know everything I should order for this job, like intake gasket etc.

 

From reading around, if your symptoms come after refueling, it might indicate a bad EVAP solenoid valve.

 

This thread has some information on it.

 

 

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8 hours ago, omar302 said:

From reading around, if your symptoms come after refueling, it might indicate a bad EVAP solenoid valve.

 

This thread has some information on it.

 

 

Thanks @omar302 , I commented in that thread just recently and didn't think to connect it to the symptoms - I'll definitely check that out.

 

I'll use Forscan, and if the error code is present I'll get it addressed under warranty - I've only got 50K miles on the clock, and paid just shy of $2K for the extended warranty, so as much as I like tinkering, I'll leave it to Ford.

Edited by 1004ron
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Anyone gone from the SP-542 to the SP-578 which Ford now list for our 2.7's ?

 

https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/spark-plugs-sp578-new-part-number-for-542.139471/

 

Or is there a better option such as the NGK 95605 which is listed for this engine on RockAuto.com - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9779988&cc=3310415&jsn=1829

Edited by 1004ron
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On 11/9/2019 at 12:00 PM, 1004ron said:

Anyone gone from the SP-542 to the SP-578 which Ford now list for our 2.7's ?

 

https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/spark-plugs-sp578-new-part-number-for-542.139471/

 

Or is there a better option such as the NGK 95605 which is listed for this engine on RockAuto.com - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9779988&cc=3310415&jsn=1829

SP-542 are hard to find now - although I've got another 50K miles before I change plugs, I'll go with the NGK 95605 Ruthenium HX, unless I can find a good reason why Ford changed to the SP-578

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  • 2 years later...

Can anyone confirm if the NGK plugs on Panda are the correct ones & if so why do they need to gap them to 0.26 before shipping? Are they just checking & changing the gap from the initial NGK gap? 

Edited by Phil69
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3 hours ago, Phil69 said:

Can anyone confirm if the NGK plugs on Panda are the correct ones & if so why do they need to gap them to 0.26 before shipping? Are they just checking & changing the gap from the initial NGK gap? 

gapping is a completely unneeded service, i would avoid. just look up NGK's site and their recommendations on gapping the plugs. with copper electrodes it was much easier. with platinum, still safe. more modern materials and center electrode designs, you need a professional gapping tool to do it properly.  if you have an ecoboost, yes, the .001 / 0.002 differences from spec are magnified due to the already small gap but still hardly a major concern.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the advice. So I have just bought NGK LTR7BHX / 95605 plugs & it says 0.032 gap. Would they already be pre-gapped? Is this the correct gap for an Edge 2019 ST? 

I don't have the tools so will have Ford install them for me, but want to instruct them on whether to gap or not gap them as I hear these plugs are fragile when being gapped & could be damaged easily? 

Thanks to 1004ron with great pictures & explanation on this subject.  

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Definitely check the gap right out of the box. Correct gap is 0.028" to 0.031".

 

(BTW, I doubt that the Ford garage would appreciate you bringing in off-site parts. Yes you can get them a lot cheaper, but they are forced to buy through supply channels and have to pay the price for doing so. They may refuse to use your parts or upcharge you for the difference. Best to call and ask first. Be certain to speak to the Service Manage and get his name should things change when you take it in. This is a sore subject at some dealerships).

 

Re:

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=4640&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G1910718&ProcUid=G1910719&userMarket=usa&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False

Edited by enigma-2
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Thanks for your reply. NGK say it should be 0.032 but is this simply for this particular plug but for  the 2.7 Ecoboost  it should be 0.028" to 0.031"? 

Would Ford specs be the best to go for this on this engine or would NGK specs be better to go with for that specific plug type? I've heard people suggest that the gap should probably be smaller for the Ecoboost engines ? 

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wellll ... the gap is not too far off from ford spec, but it will run a bit leaner than a ford plug would.

 

but the motorcraft is spec'd at 0.031 based on the rockauto listing, so go ahead and use the ngk plugs if you want. general consensus is  NGKs don't last as long as the motorcraft plugs tho the ruthenium tech should mitigate that.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2015,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3310415,ignition,spark+plug,7212

 

usually we look for 1 heat range colder in performance applications (when adding 100 whp to the edge for example). not sure what returns the ignitability will have. hope it pays off for you.

 

 

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  • 5 months later...

 

On 6/18/2019 at 8:11 AM, Special_K said:

 

@snmjim Should be able to help you.  but the fronts are easy as pie, its the backs that are a straight up PITA.  you have to remove the intake box, rear turbo inlet, and then use skinny hand powers to get them out.

 

I'm looking for this as well. I looked at 'snmjim' posts but it appears to be about parts, not the procedure. I don't mind digging in, but I'd prefer to know what I'm getting into first.

 

Is there a more detailed explanation or video on changing these spark plugs on a '17 Edge 2.7? I have found many videos on line, but none (yet) on this particular engine and model.

 

Thanks

 

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2 hours ago, Sunnyorlando said:

 

 

I'm looking for this as well. I looked at 'snmjim' posts but it appears to be about parts, not the procedure. I don't mind digging in, but I'd prefer to know what I'm getting into first.

 

Is there a more detailed explanation or video on changing these spark plugs on a '17 Edge 2.7? I have found many videos on line, but none (yet) on this particular engine and model.

 

Thanks

 

If you need more information than what can be found in the post linked (six above your post), then it might be best to explain what part of the process you need more info on.

Edited by 1004ron
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