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Brake Booster DIY


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41 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   texlnghorn

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Posted 15 June 2010 - 11:15 PM

Anyone replaced a brake booster by themselves. I started having problems a couple of weeks ago on my 07 Edge (way past warranty). I have a very stiff pedal and hissing from the booster. I want to try and get to the booster to see if the vacuum hose is ok or if I see any fluid indicating a leaky master cylinder. It looks like I need to take the battery and battery tray out just to even see the booster. What else do I need to do to get to the booster?

I bought the $10 shop manual that another thread referenced and it describes how to take the brake booster off, but it does not describe the procedure to get to the booster. I also looked around for a Chiltons or Haynes manual but it does not look like one exists for the Edge.







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#2 OFFLINE   DJ Nap

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 05:37 PM

Anyone replaced a brake booster by themselves. I started having problems a couple of weeks ago on my 07 Edge (way past warranty). I have a very stiff pedal and hissing from the booster. I want to try and get to the booster to see if the vacuum hose is ok or if I see any fluid indicating a leaky master cylinder. It looks like I need to take the battery and battery tray out just to even see the booster. What else do I need to do to get to the booster?

I bought the $10 shop manual that another thread referenced and it describes how to take the brake booster off, but it does not describe the procedure to get to the booster. I also looked around for a Chiltons or Haynes manual but it does not look like one exists for the Edge.

:stop: Oh, my friend, I had the same exact problem on our '07 Edge @ 42K miles. Your master cylinder is leaking and the fluid is leaking into your brake booster. I have the factory service manual here..http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/90135123-service-manual-2007-2008-2009-ford-edge. It was a $750 repair to replace BOTH the master cylinder and booster. I'm beginning to see more and more of it happening, hopefully leading to a recall.

#3 OFFLINE   texlnghorn

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 03:49 PM

:stop: Oh, my friend, I had the same exact problem on our '07 Edge @ 42K miles. Your master cylinder is leaking and the fluid is leaking into your brake booster. I have the factory service manual here..http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/90135123-service-manual-2007-2008-2009-ford-edge. It was a $750 repair to replace BOTH the master cylinder and booster. I'm beginning to see more and more of it happening, hopefully leading to a recall.


Yep, I bought that manual and it describes how to test the booster and how to remove it. Unfortunately, it does not tell me what I have to remove to get to the booster. I refuse to spend $750 for this repair. I have spent many hours wrenching on my 10 year old bimmer and 10 year old saturn before that so I don't have a problem getting my hands dirty. But on my bimmer and saturn, I always had a bunch of instructions on what I need to do. I just can't find out much for my edge.

#4 OFFLINE   beston38st

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 04:46 PM

Have you tried www.motorcraftservice.com ? You can get an online subscription to the repair manuals. In the past I've taken a short online subscription (72hrs) - done the repair, and printed the directions off for the next time. They seem to be pretty complete.

Good Luck

#5 OFFLINE   Feirstein

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Posted 17 April 2011 - 08:22 AM

The Workshop Manual states:
1. Remove the break pedel light switch first or it will become damaged.
2. Remove the pin holding the brake pedel assembly from the rear of the booster (from the inside of the car).
3. Undo the bolts and remove.

For a large 3 vol Manual it is very short on pictures and procedures. I guess it assumes you went to Ford School and this is just a reminder of some of the procedures.

It does not state that you have to uninstall the master cylinder but when I get into it I may find that that is also required.

I recommend that you first fill the fluid fill to the brim and then cover the cap area with clear food film and then add the cover to keep air pressure closed off to min the loss of fluid if a hydrolic line has to be removed.

#6 OFFLINE   Feirstein

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Posted 24 April 2011 - 03:06 PM

Just did this operation. At 62,000 miles the booster started to whistle. With some help from the wife it took several hours.

1. Remove the battery, battery tray, air filter assembly, etc. Then unbolt the master cylinder from the booster. (I placed some clear kitchen rap under the fluid fill cap to keep fluid from freely leaking out).
2. Then remove the brake switch attached just above the brake pedal. Don't push in on the pedal, but retract the push pin a bit and rotate 45 degrees clockwise.
3. Then remove the 4 interior bolts holding in the booster.
4. Now, for the hard part, remove the booster from the motor area. The air vacume hose must be removed from the booster first and then pull the hose's off their holding pin and move out of the way. If you know some magic it would help.
5. After it is all back in place (again, don't push in the pedel when installing the switch), you will have to bleed the break lines. If you didn't get air into the ABS system you are set to go. A double flush is recommended in the manual. We had to play with the switch to get it to function as intended. I also changed out the front pads to Bendix CT pads while I was at it. Outside pads were fine but both inside pads really needed to be changed. Odd that the noise sensor is installed at the factory on the outside pads. I reversed that upon install.

Richard
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#7 OFFLINE   surferd15

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Posted 07 August 2011 - 04:03 PM

Just did my front brakes-new rotors and pads. Well my brakes now have no power assist at all. My booster hisses even when I get in the car and just start it I hear it hissing. If I push really hard it will whistle. I bled the brakes multiple times, feel that its the booster. Once in a while I will have power assist but other times its a hard pedal and takes alot of force of my foot/leg to stop the car. Did you guys use a Motorcraft one or the Cardone branded one? The motorcraft one is cheaper but I don't want to have the same problem in the future, oh and the car only has 55k on it...Thanks

Edited by surferd15, 07 August 2011 - 04:04 PM.


#8 OFFLINE   cal3thousand

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Posted 08 August 2011 - 12:25 PM

Just did my front brakes-new rotors and pads. Well my brakes now have no power assist at all. My booster hisses even when I get in the car and just start it I hear it hissing. If I push really hard it will whistle. I bled the brakes multiple times, feel that its the booster. Once in a while I will have power assist but other times its a hard pedal and takes alot of force of my foot/leg to stop the car. Did you guys use a Motorcraft one or the Cardone branded one? The motorcraft one is cheaper but I don't want to have the same problem in the future, oh and the car only has 55k on it...Thanks


If the motorcraft is cheaper, go for that one.

Cardone is a rebuilder/remanufacturer, so that unit at best would be a motorcraft unit that was reconditioned by Cardone. (I worked at an Auto Parts store on and off over 10 years and although Cardone is a good rebuilder, they don't manufacture new parts)

#9 OFFLINE   surferd15

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 07:46 PM

Just did my brake booster and I must say the car brakes awesome now! Job didn't take that long and was pretty easy. No mushy pedal feel, immediate braking, brakes like a car!! I bet that the boosters from the factory have a defect and this leads to everyone complaining about the brakes. I did the front rotors and put on Advance Auto (wearever) rotors, and the expensive Akebono pads, put in all new fluid. If anyone needs a brake booster I found a cheap place located in Tampa Florida, I don't want to post the name-- message me if you want it. Im not affiliated with them but thier prices are the cheapest I found!! I got a Motorcraft brake booster for $71.95 and no need to return the core. Very happy now with the car!
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#10 OFFLINE   Eugenie39

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 02:40 AM

I am writing this DIY hoping that it will be of some help to someone. I had a 2002 E46 325I with the squeaking condition when you release the brake pedal. After replacing the non-return valve, I determined it was a faulty brake booster causing this noise.
I searched and searched and searched on this and other forums and could find no one who had replaced their brake booster on these E46's.
So here's how I did it. I would love to have put pictures up with this but frankly I just dont have the time to do that.
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the microfilter lid on the front bulkead as well as the housing with the four torx screws. Also remove the vacuum line going to the booster and the non return valve.
3. I then removed the top portion of the control module box that's on the driver's fender behind the shock tower. It seemed to give me a little more room.
4. Siphon the brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir.
5.Remove the brake lines at the master cylinder.
6. Unscrew the nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster and remove the master cylinder.
7. Remove the brake lines at the abs/dsc control unit, taking note of where they go. Disconnect the electrical connector from the abs/dsc control unit.
8. There is a bracket with a 10mm bolt that holds the abs/dsc control unit in. Remove the bolt and pull the unit out.
9. Now from inside the car under the dash, remove the screws necessary to pull the trim above your feet around the pedals out.
10. Remove the bracket that has the stop light switch by taking out the 10mm bolt.
11. Disconnect the brake pedal return spring.
12. Pull off the retaining clip that holds the brake push rod to the pedal.
13. The push rod WILL NOT come off all the way without first removing all three nuts that hold the pedal bracketry to the firewall and dash. Two of the nuts are on the firewall that hold the booster and pedal bracket together, the other one is up above the pedal on a stud in the dash. Until you take this last one out, the pedal will not pivot enough for the pusher rod to clear the safety bar that is welded to the pedal "you'll see what i mean if you ever do this"
14. Ok now pull the booster out being very careful not to damage anything. It is tight and confined but it will come out. Put the non return valve back on the new booster.
15. Reverse all this to reinstall everything.
16. There is a special procedure for bleeding the brakes on these cars that requires the GT1 or DIS that the dealer has. It may be possible to do it without this on some vehicles but it's good to be aware of it.
17. Hope this helps. I would have loved to find something like this when I did it.
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#11 OFFLINE   Kevin Go Dawgs Morris

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 08:02 PM

I just finished replacing the power booster on my son's 07 Edge. Took lots of pictures...I'll post them later! Wasn't that bad actually. We had it completed, bled, and clean in about 2-1/2 hrs.

#12 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 26 September 2012 - 05:42 PM

Looking to replace the power brake booster in my '07 Edge. As far as I can tell, the OEM part number is 540-00142, and the part is common to the 2007-2010 model years.

Does anyone know what the latest revision number is for this part? Is retrofitting the 2011+ booster (supposedly improved) a possibility?

TIA.

#13 OFFLINE   PrinzII

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Posted 31 October 2012 - 02:42 AM

Just read this and it's reminding me of an issue I am experiencing with my 2011. However, I am still within warranty and will have the dealership handle this once and for all.

#14 OFFLINE   fireslayer26

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 09:15 AM

I just replaced the brake booster on my wifes Edge, but now I have a small problem. The pedal doesnt seem to come back out as far as it should. There is a small gap between the pedal and the brake switch. So it is not depressing it and the brake lights are on all the time. 

IMAG0471_zps7742307a.jpg



#15 OFFLINE   galcala

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 06:56 PM

Hello all well it seems im haunted by a booster failure. Can amyone recomend an inexpensive supplier?

#16 OFFLINE   Jay Edgar

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 10:42 AM

Note that there was an announcement (Jan. 9, 2014) by Ford that 2010-2013 Edge and MKX vehicles built at the Oakville Assembly Plant from May 3, 2010 through March 28, 2013 are having the brake booster warranty extended to ten years or 150,000 miles.

 

If you are having a problem with the brake booster you should be able to get it fixed for free. I was just looking at ordering parts and attempting it myself - so glad I found this.

 

Its in a letter with subject "Customer Satisfaction Program 13N02"

 

The letter is posted in the thread at http://www.fordedgef...-brake-booster/



#17 OFFLINE   cajuns02

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 01:12 PM

I just replaced the brake booster on my wifes Edge, but now I have a small problem. The pedal doesnt seem to come back out as far as it should. There is a small gap between the pedal and the brake switch. So it is not depressing it and the brake lights are on all the time. 

IMAG0471_zps7742307a.jpg

Did you figure out the fix for this?


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#18 OFFLINE   NewEdgeSports

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 08:42 PM

Okay, so need help, I have done many of these but all on older cars. I got every nut clip, pin, vacuum hose and master cylinder removed from the booster. 

 

But HOW DO I GET THE BOOSTER OUT WITHOUT REMOVING the entire right side of the car.. LOL...

 

Kinda frustrated, soo close and yet so far....



#19 OFFLINE   WWWPerfA_ZN0W

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Posted 23 August 2014 - 04:57 AM

One alternative is to look at the Chilton's free online manual, starting with this link

http://hmcpl.org/dat...eference-center

then click on the INFOTRAC url, click PROCEED on the resulting page, and select the 2011 Ford Edge (no manuals past 2011, sorry).



#20 OFFLINE   Jhdean

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Posted 29 September 2014 - 07:51 PM

I just replaced the brake booster on my wife's 2009 ford edge and found it to be a very very simple job that took no more that an hr to hr and half. I'm not sure how or why the garages around here wanted to charge me for 3.5 hrs of work. Very simple and if anyone needs any help with this in the future I will be glad to help!
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