If it is inherited, that would mean it did not cost you anything other than inheritance and registration taxes and such.  I have a 2016 with the 2L engine.  I don't know if it's the same run as the 2018's, but I got mine a couple of years ago, and it now has just shy of 100K on it.  So far it has been no problem at all.  I don't drive it a lot, but my son drove it quite a bit for a while until he got his new car.  You read about the issues with it, but you didn't read all the thousands of others who didn't have any problems, because people usually don't post until they have a problem.  Sure it could drop on you at any time, but that could be said of any car.  Since it cost you very little to get, if it did that, you stand to lose very little.  If you like the car otherwise, I would say keep it and maintain it, and enjoy it.  Good luck!   Oh, and welcome to the forum!

Sounds simular to torque steer.  Check lower control arm bushings (most common cause of pulling on acceleration), worn ball joints (wanders under load, feels loose when cornering), or worn tie rod ends (drifting during acceleration or deceleration.)   Reason you probably feel it at shift points is because as the transmission changes gears, a different level of torque is applied to the wheels and the change in force (when the  lower control arm bushings are bad), causes the wheel geometry to shift forward or backward, pulling the car left or right.   Get the car up on a lift and check the rear bushings of the front lower control arms.      

Appreciate that info..Will try it

Yup, that'dll fix it. Once or twice a year clean your headlights with dawn soap & water, then dry and spray with this, and they'll never hase over. (More often if you're in the desert southwest. Its the sun's UV that causes the plastic to get cloudy.)   https://a.co/d/0ddE2Gie   .

I ended up buying new complete light assemblies off Amazon and poof problem solved. I had tried 3 different types of bulbs and aiming on old.ones. I think the projectors were just hazed over?

As no one else responded, I'll add my 2½ cents.    I pulled this off a related  website:   Common Transmission Issues   ● Flexplate Cracks & Torque Converter Failure: Ford issued a Customer Satisfaction Program (22N12) for certain 2015–2018 models with the 2.0L EcoBoost engine and 6F35 transmission.     This program covers repairs for cracked flexplates, transmission fluid pumps, and torque converters, which can cause rattling noises and eventual failure. ● Shifter Cable Bushing Recall: A significant recall (22S43) affected 2015–2018 Edges because the shifter cable bushing could degrade, potentially causing the vehicle to be in a different gear than the one indicated by the shifter.   ● Torque Converter Weld Studs: A smaller recall affected some 2017–2018 models with 2.0L gas engines where inadequate welds on torque converter studs could lead to a complete loss of drive.   ● Cooler Bypass Valve Clogging: Some mechanics identify a clogged cooler bypass valve as a major cause of transmission overheating and failure in the 2018 model year.    Reported Symptoms   Owners have frequently reported the following symptoms before experiencing major failures:   ● Rough Shifting: Hesitation, jerking, or "bucking" particularly at low speeds.   ● Slipping: Momentary increases in RPMs without a corresponding increase in speed, often noticed around 60 mph.   ●Unusual Noises: Clunking or rattling sounds coming from the transmission area.    Maintenance Recommendations While the owner's manual may suggest long intervals, many technicians and experienced owners recommend more frequent service to extend the life of the 2018 Edge's transmission:    ● Fluid Changes: Aim for transmission fluid inspections and changes every 30,000 to 60,000 miles.   ● Address Shudders Early: If you notice a "shudder" or "jerk" at low speeds, a software calibration update or a fluid flush may resolve it before permanent damage occurs.   ● Verify Recalls: Check your VIN on the Ford Support Recall Page to see if your specific vehicle is covered by the flexplate or shifter bushing programs. 

Sometimes metal debris in the transmission fluid can  interfere with the magnetic sensor's readings. Changing the fluid would be my first choice.   The OSS sensor itself is located inside the transmission; attached to thevm valve body. Accessing it requires draining the transmission fluid, removing the transmission pan and valve body assembly.      

Ever fix this?   I'd check the throttle body to see if it needs to be cleaned for carbon buildup. When it faults, the car goes into limp state.   Could also be an electrical  failure in the ETB itself (needs replacing.)    Another possibility is a  Problem with the throttle position sensor or the accelerator pedal position sensor. A fault with either of these can cause the computer to receive an incorrect throttle position location which can cause an intermittent power loss.

This is late, but for future reference,    Pin 1 is the 12V battery power wire, it's violet (or violet with a white stripe).  Pin 2 is the ground common ground for the coil. It's black with violet stripe (or black with a green/white stripe). Pin 3 is the PCM Trigger wire. It's color varies by cylinder. For the cylinders on the "far right", Cylinder 3 is either a yellow with a orange stripe, or violet with orange stripe. Cylinder 6 is either a violet with brown stripe, or green with a white stripe.

Ever fix this?   There's a weak possibility that it can also be caused by a weak battery (low voltage), corroded connector (or bad wiring) or a bad wheel bearing.