richy

I do have it on the MKX, and I know I have the ability to shut it off when I'm in the radio quadrant by accessing the options in the lower right corner, or at the bottom of the screen, I can't remember.

With that funky blue colour, it should have rum or something added to it...seems like a natural for an exotic cocktail...

It's either rail dust or fallout from the atmosphere. Either way you need to get it off the paint. Clay bars are an OK fix, but the better answer is IronX as Shantz mentioned above. IX is available is a few different forms. The spray you tend to use more quickly, but is very effective. Listen, if you think your paint is bad, wait till you spray IronX on your wheels and see the brake dust on there. IX turns purple when it is dissolving the metal contaminants...it is very cool to watch. This stuff is a Godsend. Better than clay b/c clay just shears off the top of it whereas IX gets it right off the paint surface completely. The key to keeping it off is using the strongest surface protection you can get. That's the nano coatings. CQuartz (made by the same folks who make IronX), Opti Coat 2, Permanon are a few that are available. Permanon is a new one to a lot of people but is by far the easiest to use...you literally just spray it on. Live2detail has a Group Buy on it for the month of September with an unheard-of 25% discount. You use very little. You mix 5% Permanon to 95% distilled water and spray it on. Check out L2D for more details and look at Youtube for videos on both IronX and Permanon.

It's only in the US and if I recall it was about $800. They have a plan where they split the cost between about 4 consecutive months that go on your credit card with no interest. You get different answers depending on whom you speak to.

If it needs it, yes. You are locking in the paint at whatever condition it is currently in. It should help (especially the CQ) to cut way down on wash-induced swirls too.

I dislike that feature. I disabled both auto-lock and auto-unlock from the menu.

It sounds like you have the desire to improve your paint, which is the most important thing (well maybe the 2nd..paying for it is first, LOL). Now, listen to me and trust me on this: IT IS DAMNED NEAR IMPOSSIBLE TO SCREW UP PAINT WITH A RANDOM ORBITAL POLISHER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can repeat that if you need, LOL. Polishes need a certain amount of friction to activate. The problem is there are so many different choices for polishers and pads out there. Autogeek is a great store, but kinda overwhelming in their selection. Griot's Garage makes a very good ROP. Get yourself some flat LCC pads in 5.5", some Meguiars 205 polish and be amazed at how well your finish will amp up. M105 is even more aggressive, but if you don't have scratches or anything, you won't need it quite yet. I would suggest white and green pads from LCC. Bottom line, is with the polisher, you will get great results and you will amaze yourself at how easy it is. Go to youtube and check out videos of people using them. It really is that easy. Common sense goes a long way. Don't stay in one position for a long time. That's the key. You will pick up a lot just watching the videos.

If you were getting 600 km out of a tank and it has worsened, then there MUST be something that has changed. First, time for a better mechanic. I would have whomever you go to check all the filters (especially air), tire pressures, etc. I use AMSOIL synthetic oil. That will also help. If not those things, a diagnostic check needs to be done...as I said, obviously something is wrong.

Travis, I ordered an 11 MKX last year with the factory DVD system and was told that it gets installed at the dealer. They replaced the headrests (I still have the originals) and the system is great. My 2 screens operate independently of each other too which is a nice feature. They are a completely independent system and don't rely on the stereo whatsoever. The system is made by Invision. Hope that helps.

dwebb2, I live in Windsor, Ont, which is just across the river from Detroit, MI. So I get the same climate as you do. I also detail professionally on the side. What you need is a nano coating which is easy to apply and will give you long protection. Nano coatings are cutting edge in paint protection. Waxes and sealants are not in the same league whatsoever!! I will give you links to 2. CQuartz is what I have on my MKX and I am putting it on my wife's new Durango this week. It is stupid easy to use and lasts for years. The 2nd CQ link will be where to get it. Get the kit with the mf and applicator, IMO it does a better job spreading it. I will also provide another link to a 2nd nano product which I have not used personally, but it has been highly recommended. http://cquartz.com/i...quartz&catid=41 http://www.autogeek....quartz-kit.html Here is the 2nd nano product: http://www.element11...m/system-x.html Another thing I'll suggest, and you can take it or leave it, is join Live2detail.com. It is a detailing forum on which I am a Board of Director. We are the ONLY detailing forum on the web that is not sponsored or run by a product manufacturer. It is privately owned. You will get unbiased reviews of many products from guys who share what has worked for them as well as what has not. It is a fun place. There is also a chatbox that opens up to you once you hit 100 posts. A few from here have already joined. I know we have members from both Michigan and Ohio on there. My username on there is Richy. I am also going to be testing a spray on nano coating this week probably and will be posting up a review of it on L2D. It will not last as long as the others, but is great for things like the barrels of wheels and motorcycles and sounds like it will be a good maintenance product. I am also beta testing using members of L2D 2 different nano sealants at this time as well. Lots going on in this field right now, it's very exciting!!

The hatch The mushrooms Hahahahaha, thanks, y'all gave me a good chuckle!!

If your regular washing technique is not doing it, I suggest applying some of your car wash soap directly (as in straight, and not much) to your wash mitt and go at the area. If that doesn't work, use a mild clay bar. Let me know how that works for you.

You do it the same way. Push and hold a reset until it sets, usually just a few seconds.

It's a stupid, maddening feature. Ford was too lazy to install an anti-pinch feature in the roof. Yes, unfortunately, it is normal....for Ford anyway...

This MKX is the first car I've had with ventilated seats. How hard should the air flow blow out of them? When on high, I can feel it at the bottom of my legs, but not really on my lower back. I am disappointed they don't blow out harder. What are your experiences with it?

Glad to hear it worked for you once. Painter's tape is not too thick, so what you may find is that a stone could still penetrate that tape barrier and still make a mark. It will give you some protection at the least I guess. You may have to use Goo-gone, Iso propyl alcohol or a light solvent to remove the adhesive, but that's not a big deal.

Thanks for posting the pic of the damage. My recommendation: DO NOT HAVE THE PANEL PAINTED!!! In my humble opinion, you stand a MUCH greater risk of the dealer not being able to either match the paint correctly or most probably the finish will not be anywhere near as nice as what came from the factory. Try to find a reputable detailer in your area who can fill it and wet sand it down and polish it out. It is however, near an edge (no pun intended), which is dangerous to compound due to thin paint. I strongly suggest you try the Dr chip and go from there. It is a great product and will most likely fix your problem with the least noticeable consequences.

Stone chips are as inevitable as lying politicians. Here is a product that is a great way to fill them in: http://www.drcolorchip.com/

If you get at them quickly enough or the trip has not been too long, they will wash right off without anything. But, if you drove 24 hours to Florida (an example of what it takes us) and had this huge collection of baked-on bugs, it might take more. I use Duragloss Bug and Tar remover when I need to use such a product. Generally not though. They should still be removed as quickly as possible to stop their acidic bodies eating into the clear.

Sounds like I will be in need of this update. Yesterday I got the black screen for the first time. The radio stayed on and none of the steering wheel controls worked except for the volume. Then the radio stayed on even after I shut off the ignition. I was at work and the dealer sent a guy to disconnect the battery terminal which reset everything and solved (temporarily) the radio issue.

No kidding..her comment made me chuckle.

This is truly a case of WTF?!?! I'm so glad nobody was hurt!

Take one of your lesser quality mf's and dunk it in the ONR and do the tires last. Dry them off with another one and then put the dressing on over that. I usually don't do that to be honest. If just my wheels/tires/wells need cleaning, then I will get out the power washer and do that and then pull it back in the garage and do the rest with ONR. (especially in this 90+ degree heat lately). The other method will work too, even on the wells.

Grout sponges are a great wash media. They are soft and hold a TON of soapy water. I find personally that I like the ones from Lowe's better (I think they're called Proline or something similar). They will not remove bugs though unless you presoak the area with Duragloss Bug Remover or some Zep Citrus.