Fingernip

I just booked my appointment to get it done. I haven't gotten the bang recently but I have had a flare occasionally.

Probably.. I have the Ronin so it is not removed. Yes o-rings have been around for ages for sealing static surfaces. The problem is once they are disturbed after installation they become more prone to failure. Materials have improved to the point where they are reasonably reliable but in my field the cost of simply replacing them every service visit easily justifies the cost of replacement. Unscheduled service is extremely expensive and inconvenient. I collect large and unusual o-rings at work and re-use them as rubber-bands/part protection and other non production functions. They have never even been in service... simply installed and the part removed.

Fair enough. My information was wrong. I still much prefer the idea of not removing the plug or at least changing the o-ring every time. We would never re-use an o-ring in aerospace regardless of cycle life. To save the $5 or so on a new plug until it actually leaks then have to waste 6 quarts of oil just to change it seems silly to me. My co-worker gave me a bag of them when i told them i planned to service it myself he got them free from his dealership(former employer) when he bought his truck. The o-ring itself would have to be measured as it doesn't seem Ford offers it separately.

Until I can find the statement by Ford I cannot argue against that.

They likely wont cover it either way if you do the oil change yourself and cant prove the plug had a manufacturing defect. The no remove plug is less likely to leak since you don't need to disturb the o-ring.

As long as the 3rd party part meets or exceeds the design intent of the OEM part the warranty is unaffected. the plug I'm using is never removed and uses a spring valve mechanism to open. The issue with the plastic plug is re-using the o-ring after removal and ensuring it locks in place every time. I do remember the same statement about the 3 o-rings on the oil filter cap also. they are to be changed every oil change.... I'm sure shops don't do that also. Its not in the owners manual or maintenance guide for some reason.

I'm glad you haven't run into any problems.. but I wouldn't brag too much about that since if it fails you potentially could void your warranty since you didn't change it. I believe Ford recommends changing it every time. I managed to replace mine without much mess using a large drain pan... until the wind blew and speckled me and my driveway with tiny drops of oil. The replacement plug never comes out and can be opened a little or a lot or re-closed without making any mess.. It has a barbed fitting to accept a flexible hose to drain it directly into a container.

I bought a Ronin Aluminum drain plug to make life easier down the line. They are expensive but i REALLY hate making a mess. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H56TP4F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also the filter has a stem inside the housing. Be careful not to damage it and if it breaks don't ignore it. In general its a very simple process since the filter is on top of the motor and will have no oil in it. Change all the o-rings every oil change and change the plastic plug at least every other oil change.

Here are the TSBs for anyone looking for them. MC-10163590-0001.pdf MC-10165708-0001.pdf MC-10159459-0001.pdf

You have having issues beyond the 2 current TSBs right now? I have a December build and it had a nasty buck when shifting to 3rd. Had the first TSB done and it didn't fix it. They disabled the converter lockup and it stopped. Turned out it was a bad torque converter. Has been shifting well since then other than some occasional RPM flares that seem to be related to traction control.

There are alot of other variables that will determine power output and how much of it you notice. The computer is trying to prevent pre-ignition and will adjust timing and boost accordingly. Temp, elevation, quality of fuel and your driving habits will effect the power numbers. If you never go beyond 1/2 throttle there is no reason to use 93. There likely is little to no difference in power when your staying out of boost.

It does all of the above. It limits torque and applies brakes to wheels with slip. It just seems overly aggressive. With traction control off it seems to still limit slip to some degree though.

Have you noticed any correlation with the traction control light coming on? I have had the revs seemingly out of gear but it only occurs at times when the traction control is triggered. I would expect bog since it is cutting fuel and applying brakes but with traction control off it never does it.

I haven't tried that but i will. I might have the dealer look at it anyway though because one of the rear seat fold down buttons stopped working the other day also. I hadn't noticed because my son's car seat is usually on that side and one day I removed it and tried to fold down the seat and it wouldn't.

Just realized my biggest complaint on my Edge ST. The Entry/exit assist that backs the seat all the way works great for entry and exits... but it does not return to my pre-set seat location half the time. Also the memory seat recall buttons wont function with the car in drive for safety reasons. Often Ill jump in and pull off before i realize how far away i'm sitting and have to stop and park to adjust the seat again.

was the replacement option un-tinted? You could also go with a tint film to help it hold together in case of breakage. You get some pretty good options now in films that reject heat and UV damage also. a 50% film would work well if the glass is pre-tinted.

I agree. The adaptive lights would be nice but what I hear is they have a narrower beam pattern than the fixed lights. Also What I woudla have wanted is the auto dim side mirror. Other than that it has been great. I am 6'2" and I can wear a baseball cap propped on top of my head and look up without the brim hitting the roof. The sunroof seems to take away very little headroom.

Congrats!. Not many of us went without the 401A package it seems. I deliberately went without it but I added every single available option without forcing it back to the 401A. I really didn't want heated rears and ventilated fronts. Now i somewhat wish I got it though since in the summers my back does get a little sweaty when driving for a long time. It saves me almost $3,000 in the end but had I just waited a few more months I probably woulda saved that anyway just negotiating price.

That is exactly the car and the deal i have been looking for. I have 2 in my house learning to drive and the edge with no handbrake and a ton of torque is not the right vehicle to teach them with. Also I have 2 other cars with 500+lbs torque also with no handbrake.....

I didn't notice condiments but mayo took off everywhere. I grew up using mayo on my fries all through school. The biggest thing i noticed there was how multi cultural it is. America is considered the "melting pot" but Paris absolutely had us beat. I don't speak a work of French but ALMOST everyone I encountered spoke at least 2 languages and French was not the first. I met only a hand full of French born people and most were only 1st generation. Even cites like NYC with a massive immigrant population is not as heterogeneous. People tend to stick to their own culture more in the US.

I traveled to Paris a few weeks ago for work and was worried I would slip up and call them french fries and offend someone... turns out they also often refer to them as french fries. That is of course when they speak English.....

Mine was shifting into drive very harsh the same day I picked it up after the torque converter was changed. It clunked every time for a full day then stopped for a few weeks. Now it will do it about 1 time every 2 weeks.

I have never had mine release control. It will actively fight you to maintain lane center unless you activate a turn signal. It is easily overpowered but you feel it the entire time. For long trips I just hang my hand on the wheel giving it a tiny bias towards one side and it will correct for my input.

The ST gets the first water cooled PTU. The sport has a smoother ride due to softer suspension. With 21" wheels you will notice more. The 20s will feel more the the 18 sport with 21s. The brake upgrade as the same size rotors and calipers. It may have a different backing plate for airflow and definitely has upgraded pads. IMO the only real benefit in the brake package is the brush-less cooling fan. Summer tires mean if you live anywhere with snow/ice you have to buy winter tires anyway. Plus you wont get a space tire. The brake upgrades can be done yourself for less.

I agree. It is weird and intrusive initially. Causes delays at lights and unsettling how it goes silent. Only real drawback is on humid/hot days when the A/C is only just barely maintaining your interior temp and it shuts down for a few moments you get a blast of humid/warm air. It will restart the car is cabin temp deviates a certain amount from the set temp though. You learn quickly how to let it restart when 2 cars ahead start rolling or you see the cross traffic light go yellow.