macbwt

Sorry for the bad luck. I agree you can locate many used engines for a R&R. I however would seek another price quote from other shops that are considered reputable. My neighbor did an full used engine swap for about 3K so shop around.

2011 Thru 2014 are actually the same vehicle nothing was really changed. As far as durability....maintain it and you should be alright. Things happen to all vehicles so if you get a warranty no issue if you don't get a warranty no issue there either just be ready to pay. If you can work on your own Edge even better.

You know me just dive in and figure it out as I go. Might even break something while trying to fix it.

Maybe Solar will send me some swag LOL Did a video check and there are a lot of sites linking my videos now. It was crazy as the search came up with 3 pages of links to my videos that other sites have placed them on. The best thing is I do enjoy doing this. Pay sucks, but hey it is a hobby.

Ha Ha. Remove the fan. then remove the fender well. Might have to remove a few more things but sounds simple enough. I will also check the all data at the arsenal. It does look tight in there when looking from the top.

Voltage regulators are not available as a part. I have determined the entire alternator must be replaced.

:Thought about it but SOLAR tech gave me some additional advice and watched the video with his experience it is the voltage regulator. I have already tested two other vehicles and one with a nearly dead exhausted 5 year old battery and it was not doing anything like what Lullubelle was doing. The battery has issues but not related to the system regulator spiking. I will make a more detailed video on the issue.

I actually meant installation and removal instructions. it is tighter than........

Any technical sheets available by anyone? Would be nice. I may have to wait until I can get to the Arsenal to have some info printed out from All Data.

Can not find a video anywhere. Guess I will be making a first video on this soon as my SOLAR is saying the regulator is misbehaving. Leave it to Lullubelle to create problems.

Has anyone on this forum changed out the voltage regulator on their Edge?

I am using the SOLAR BA7 and found some erratic readings. SOLAR tech checked out this video and determined I am experiencing the failure of the voltage regulator on my 2011 Ford Edge. I am going to perform some more testing and will then have to remove the alternator and replace the regulator or maybe the whole alternator not sure at this point.

SOLAR replied to my question and ultimately watched my video and they believe the voltage regulator in my Edge is faulty. They provided me with the following steps to help confirm this diagnosis. Dear Mr. Trammell, Thank you for your inquiry about the BA7 and how it can help you properly troubleshoot your vehicle’s starting system. Your specific question and video led us to prepare a more thorough answer than; “it looks like you have a bad charging system component.” Let me explain based on your video, and based on our BA7 manual which you can get by going to: http://www.cloreautomotive.com/uploaded_files/sku/431_841-029-000.pdf First, when you look through your video, notice how stable the voltage output is on the first vehicle. It is right around 14.2 volts DC with very little movement up or down. Second, if you look at the second vehicle notice how the voltage is drifting up from 14.44 over 14.6 volts. Also you point out correctly that the high voltage RED LED comes on (flickers) so it means the tester is catching a high voltage condition: Spikes from the alternator. Taking that erratic jump up in voltage, we lean towards a voltage regulator issue; but there are a few more tests to narrow that down. Let me take you to the manual to page 6 where it says: System Testing: Starting and Charging System Tests (Model No. BA7 Only), please read 1 – 9, but on #10 it starts with the following and I’m going to add a bit to what is in the manual. 1) Run up the engine to 1200 ~ 1500 rpm. Read the voltage while the car is running. a. If the volts reading is between 13.4 volts and 14.6 volts = Charging system ok. Green LED lights. b. If the volts reading is greater than 14.6 volts = Charging voltage high. Red LED lights. Check regulator. c. If the volts reading is less than13.4 volts. = Charging voltage low. Yellow LED lights. Check connections, wiring and alternator. Notice you are getting the Red LED that flashes on and goes off. This points to high voltage spikes of sufficient duration to trigger the LED, but then as the voltage returns it goes off. Now let me help you use the full capability of the BA7 by doing a follow up test. Let’s put a constant load on the charging system. That starts in step 11 in the instructions for testing the charging system. I’ll add a bit to what is in the manual, but keep in mind the manual is very accurate in what it is telling you. I’m using the numbers only because your video gave us a chance to see and I’d like to help you feel more comfortable with the BA7. 2. Following the charging system at idle, continue the charging system test with accessory loads. Turn on the blower to high (heat), high beam headlights, and rear defogger. Do not use cyclical loads such as air conditioning or windshield wipers. a. If the volts reading is between 13.4 volts and 14.6 volts = Charging system ok. Green LED lights. b. If the volts reading is greater than 14.6 volts = Charging voltage high. Red LED lights. Check regulator. c. If the volts reading is less than13.4 volts. = Charging voltage low. Yellow LED lights. Check connections, wiring and alternator. Although you did not run this test, I believe you’ll find that the Red LED is flashing, and you’ll find again that the BA7 is calling into question the maximum voltage and likely pointing to the regulator. Please let me know if this has fully answered your question, and thanks for the video, it helped us see what you were seeing. And again, we wish to thank you with your informatively clear videos. Sincerely, Cliff Botham Technical Service Representative techservice@cloreautomotive.com 800-321-2928 option #2 Technical Service 913-310-1050 option #2 Technical Service

Does it make a difference if I replace the wet cell 54 with an AGM 650CCA w/Power Code Remote Start Car and Truck platinum AGM battery? My theory on the AGM is it 1) is a better battery 2) is a deep cycle hybrid battery 3) want more CCA's The deep cycle IMO will help keep the electrical draw demand under control since I am seeing the conventional batteries married to the Edge are not performing and may be the reason for the Battery Saver System being activated. I may be wrong, but a lot of information is starting to point to this just due to the heavy technology demands now being placed on the electrical system. If Ford were smart they would start upgrading the battery they place in the Edge. https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/car-and-truck/ford/edge/2011/v6-3.7l-650cca-w_power-code-remote-start/sli65agm

I only have 12v plug in devices that I unplug. Although I am guilty of leaving them running on occasion and a couple of times until the battery was dead. This most likely did not help the MC battery. I am seriously thinking AGM deep cycle as an alternative. Just have to locate one that will fit. AGM should be able to help with the accessory drain the Ford Edge is constantly placing the batteries under.

do I need a scan tool to reset the Battery Management system or is there a another way to do this?

Ok I have tested both of my Ford Edge's and one has some issues with the battery and maybe more, but I will replace the battery and retest to see if the charging system still shows signs like it did during the testing. It may be the battery was toast and is causing the erratic behaviot

Ok this is a test on Blueberry first then a follow up on Lullubelle. What may be the issue I do not know, but will start with a new battery since this one is bad or going bad.

Temp was about 40 degrees. Battery was down to 12.02 volts on the second test and CCA was down. Registered weak. Watch this next video as I check both Edge's and Lullubelle is sick. Not sure what is going on. I plan on upgrading to a 65 series battery and then checking the system again hoping it is the battery. If not I have an electrical/charging issue which is strange because the system test put the voltage out that I thought would be normal. 14 or so volts.

Here is the deal. I tested my motor craft battery and it is a 54 series 540 CCA. It is putting out 490CCA, but good enough for now for the Solar BA7 tester to say it is OK, but did have a yellow light saying it is Weak. I performed a system crank under load test and it is putting out 14.50 Volts but with a flashing green and Red light. Weird thing is green is good and Red saying system is not charging properly. Now I have to wait until the other Edge is back home to rerun the tests to see if I get the same charging results. I will also be performing this test on KIA van yet this afternoon so I will have three tests to see if Lullubelle is having charging issues or if the Ford Smart charging system is causing the tester to read the impulses as an error. By the way the Motorcraft battery was at 12.4volts when I first hooked it up which is of some concern.

I never buy an extended warranty. Why?, because I have never recouped the money. I have also seen the face of the service rep when I say I have an extended warranty. I have had to jump through more hoops than a circus lion to get things repaired. I have had repairs declined due to their technical wording on failure. A Leaking power steering is not a failure until the pump actually fails? Yep you get the point. Besides an extended warranty is no good if you drive 60-70K miles a year. Your experience may differ but these have been mine.

No idea. Does the shift lever and selector feel like it is locking in good?

Ha you thought Blueberry was relegated to the back of the line. Here is a video peeking under her skirt so to speak. Look at them legs go. LOL

endoscopic camera would help find it. Or small rubber hose duct taped to the end of the vacuum. Again to answer the main question about anything that could be damaged by doing this...I do not know that answer. I assume not, but these days with the way headlights are designed I am no longer sure. Best of luck and let us know the outcome so it can be passed along..

That is why you find a good shop that shows you the oil level when they are finished changing it. Then stick with them.