macbwt

As with all things.....economics are going to be affecting the Orange Crush. I have some fun and frustration repairing it, but the time will be soon approaching that it would be cheaper to replace it in the future than to continue repairing it. Once the monthly repairs hit a certain level on any vehicle there has to come a time to get rid of the the vehicle and begin anew. We have decided the Orange Crush is most likely on it's last year.

He he. Well it will be me that does the work as I can not afford to pay a mechanic to have it done so wish me luck. Just have to take a methodical approach and the lower mount that moved the most will be the first one to be replaced then the top right one as it seems to be the second most needed repair. For some reason the lower left does not get replaced as often (youtube lack of videos) not sure if it is because it does not undergo the stresses the other two do.

I a suspicious of the aftermarket parts as well from Anchor. A little research has revealed that if this were a repair and sell it situation then no problem. Let the new owner deal with it later. Not the case here for me so I am going to more than likely shoot for the OEM from ford on this one since these are major components of the drive system the smarter choice would be OEM for durability and safety. I may have to do this one at a time as the complete replacement is rather pricy (300.00 or so with tax) plus new bolts/nuts for purchasing all of them at once then replacing. More than likely a two or three part replacement series with MG.

This is what I am looking at through Rockauto. Funny thing is while looking at other parts they all seemed to have almost the same part numbers in many ways to the Anchor Mfg part numbers. Did not really matter who was selling just a very similar part number so I am assuming very few manufacturers, but a lot of vendors selling the same part. ANCHOR Part # 3144 [Private Label Package] (Only 4 Remaining) $33.89 $33.89 Engine : Motor Mount ANCHOR Part # 3180 [Private Label Package] (Only 4 Remaining) Front Right $42.79 $42.79 Subtotal $76.68

A torcher could be a torturer, but they usually stick to arson or metal working. Maybe it is a sideline. LOL

Attached is a video of the engine mount moving and the transmission torque mount moving. Diagnosis is fairly easy and can be very dangerous so DO NOT HAVE ANYONE UNDER THE CAR. Here is the video.

Watch and let me know. The mounts appear to have gone just about as far as they can. Time to replace them.

I got caught!!! MOMOSHA took the place of MercyGirl (banished to her room to complete her homework) and on top of it Tati sat off to the side and acted as an independent observer. Anyway. Loud clanking noise from the top right main engine mount on video. The Transmission torque mount (dog bone) moves about two to three inches (definitely no good) got that on video also. Both most likely need to be replaced with the priority going to the transmission torque mount as it is moving the most. Now to get some funds together to order the parts and get them replaced.

You will get 30 if you drive 55mph straight on a level road for the entire tank of gas with one person in the car. After that expect less. My 2008 averages 21 mph almost all the time. My wifes 2011 averages 16mph all the time. Technically the 2011 is better in fuel mileage and is on the highway, but my wife only drives in the city 100 percent of the time and her mileage is 16mpg. Those are the differences in usage. If you drive any city driving you will not get 30mpg. The percentage of loss of mileage is very significant over 55mph. Plus weight reduces the mileage. It takes fuel and ponys to push the edge down the road at 75mph. By the way I drive 75 everywhere and as I said 21 mpg. I go slower I start seeing 23mpg up to 24mpg. Which is about what they say a 2008 should be getting.

I say let the engine run Nekked!! liberate your engine!!!

Yep always a way. MOMOSHA is leaving this morning and I am in charge. LOL what she does not know will not......besides we will have fun since Dad sometimes has less rules.

MOMOSHA has eyes in the front and back and at least four ears with a sixth sense that matches no other....Plus I wanted to do this in the driveway. LOL

As soon as I get done negotiating with MercyGirl's union rep (Mom) seems she has concerns about shifting vehicles and video cameras under the Orange Crush. MOMOSHA is worse than OSHA.

I am going to look at the transmission torque strut (dog bone) and do some shift movements and see how much it moves. That part looks fairly straight forward but the exhaust may have to be loosened or remove to remove the bolts. If this is the case then I will also need new bolts and a gasket. Not sure if the exhaust gaskets and bolt will play fair after almost 300K miles. Note I do like the instructions about the "special tool" I translate that to a "floor jack with a piece of wood" so that you do not punch a hole into the oil pan when you jack up the engine to relieve pressure on the mount.

I feel an engine and transmission mount diagnostics video forming in my head. Wonder is MercyGirl will be available? I guess I will have to turn off the wifi in the house this would get me immediate attention. LOL

LOL I am just the person to try....at least I will have a fall back plan....Then again I will never know if I do not at least try.

Ok, I know where the top left (passenger side) engine mount is located and believe there is a transmission (dog bone shaped) mount underside on the drivers side which for most purposes I will call the transmission mount. That being said how many mounts are there and I know I am missing one on the drivers side somewhere. I am also assuming some dis assembly is required to get to the drivers side mount. To replace these part it looks like it could be around 200 or more for all the mounts.

Just enjoy the rental then get your MKX repaired and if you deem then sell it at a far greater amount than Ford will ever offer.

OK the sub frame bushing (symptoms) you mentioned almost exactly the issue I am experiencing. Now an amateur question. Where the heck are those located? and what is the exact name (term) for those parts? Lastly how difficult to replace? Please note I am the type to tear into it but would like a to make sure that once I begin digging the hole that I can actually get out of the hole. Or are subframe mounts the same term for transmission mounts?

Need some advice on the orange crush. I have been having some really heavy torque steer to the right on acceleration. I also have some noise when shifting into reverse and then drive. My assumption is leaning towards either engine mounts or transmission mounts or both. Things just feel loose in the engine and tranny. Go figure it's not like I am driving this Orange Crush into the dirt. Anyway any ideas? How do I ultimately determine if I have mount issues? I feel like this is a two person diagnosis.

I just keep squeezing the handle until it is full. Usually get another two gallons in the tank. Works the same way with the 2011 I have also. At least they are consistent. Of course I am waiting for the day that as much runs out on the ground as I am putting into the the rusty tank. Then I get a free rental!!!!

I have found no Edges to be included in any article. Mustangs are mentioned though.

If it was the E-brake it would not affect the caliper. Are the pins worn or bent? Did you replace the metal insert slides with new ones? Then last thing is I am not sure if the braking system is valved on the edge to two or four separate systems. In other words left rear and right front operate on the same system and then right rear and left front operate on the same system. The other option which I could not see being probable is each wheel braking system has its own individual line and valving. If it s the first choice then I would say if the opposite wheel caliper is not having an issue then you are back to the replacement caliper being bad or there is a binding issue with your right rear system (Rust needs to be cleaned and maybe even blasted off of the parts or replaced. The replacement thing is shade tree and turns into and expensive parts swapping nightmare. IF calipers are all equal swapping a working caliper to the other one might be a timely solution, but I would stick with working on the right rear and ensuring all areas move freely.

What specifically are the extended warranty limitations in regards to time and mileage? For example my 2011 with 92,000 miles. Would it still be covered?

What is gas running over there? about 4 dollars a liter?