enigma-2

I remember that the service tech told me I had gold color coolant and they were suggesting going to green (think it was green). They said they had to drain, flush with water, then with a cleaner then flush with water again and finally a fill with the new coolant. Said they had to remove all traces of the old coolant. Something about the gold not offering adaquate protection due to corrosion. Mentioned water pump and heater core. This was around ~78k if I remember.

Here's the video

If you follow OMAR302's video link above, you might also consider sanitizing the HVAC housing and kill any remaining mold. Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner works well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kDKaAb1X536FN Youtube video on how to use:

My dealer checked my coolant during one of the oil changes and recommended I change immediately. (2009 MKX, gold coolant). They will use the latest coolant whenever you do a change. I do a change more often than the maintenance (100k & 150k) schedule to protect the water pump.

Others have reported this. Turns out its the spash/noise panel under the car. Sometimes the push fasteners fall out, brake or juse come loose. Crawl under and tap the panels until you find the loose one.

Forgot to add the product I use on the filter to improve its efficiency. (Use it on my furnace filter as well). PuraClean Filter Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145I072I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dtHaAbYFE7QR6

Personally I would never consider reusing a filter. The fine pores will retain molds and pollens. I prefer using charcoal filters, regular filters take out the pollen and other small stuff that get through the exterior filter, the charcoal will help on some other pollutants like diesel exhaust, burning leaves (doesn't eliminate the odors, but everything helps as wife has ashma). I also use a filter enhancer to turn it into a low-micron filter. For puroses of comparison, you can buy Motorcraft filters for under $14 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LPTGAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zFlaAbR8V90E4 These are the filter I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A6NBO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-HlaAbHNM48M5

This link describes how to program a 2017 MKX with a Linear opener. http://www.homelink.com/program/video

Excellent how-to-do-it video. Liked the fact that your were able to get good camera angles and show everything. ?

The correct replacment is a number HIR2 for Halagen bulbs & D3S for HID bulbs. Here's an excellent video from Mactfordedge on changing headlights.

Sounds like you blew a strut. If you forcefully rock the car up and down does to continue to rock on? Have to do this on all four corners to be certain.

Tell us WHEN this occurs, ei when your turning, accelerating or braking? Is it coming from the front or the rear? That being said, the most common cause of creaking noises in the suspension are sway bar bushings. With age and cold weather the rubber hardens and the sway bar tries to bind on the rubber. This will cause creaks, groans, squeaks, etc. You can fix this by lubricating the sway bar bushings with grease (synthetic) or by replacing them. If you choose the lube them you may have to so annually. Best to just replace. Try pushing down real hard on the top of each front fender and note if you can hear the noise. If you can, most likely it's the sway bar bushings. Other causes can be tie rod ends, control arm through bolt bushings , ball joint sockets, etc.

This video may help.

Takes me ~1 minute to get mine out (09 MKX). My guess is they changed it deliberately so owners will take it back it to dealer for service (they really rip you off - $12 if you do it yourself, who knows what they would charge in your case).

Try <$12. Motorcraft FP-65 Pollen Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LPTGAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_A8w-zb8RT6H4D

Believe that's what I said. The FMVSS applies only the manufacturers of motor vehicles, and state DOT laws apply to motorists, how the operate their cars, how and whit what they can modify, etc. All state DOT laws mirror the FMVSS as to what every car must meet as a minimum. In exceeding the Federal Standards, states have differing laws as to light flashing, colors, max luminosity, etc. For example, here in Indiana, the state code address neon underlighting (which is not addressed in the FMVSS). The state law limits the neon license plate lighting to white only, and the underside, all combinations of red, white, blue and amber are illegal. (Purple is a combination of red and blue). .

The owners manual starts the lighting chapter by addressing condensation. "Condensation in the Exterior Front Lamps and Rear Lamps Exterior front lamps and rear lamps have vents to accommodate normal changes in air pressure." (This is on page 85 in the 2017 manual). They go.on to say "Examples of acceptable condensation are: The presence of a fine mist (no streaks, drip marks or large droplets). A fine mist covers less than 50% of the lens." Based on the pictures you uploaded, I would say your lenses don't exceed the Ford requirement for replacment. If the scratch goes deep enough to penetrate all the way through the plastic (no cat is going to scratch all the way through the plastic), you could reseal it with some clear fingernail polish or brush applied topcoat. Under normal conditions, warm, moist air enters the lens through the vent hole in the lens, and condenses in the cool night air. If you want to get ahead of this, you could get the water vapor out (hair dryer?) and close the vent with a piece of heavy, plastic sealing tape. .

As the vehicle has been sitting overnight and cold, it seems to me that it's related to combustion cycle during the warm up mode. About the only thing that comes to mind during early warm up is a burning off in the catalytic converter. I would get it into the Dealership immediately as it's definitely not supposed to do this. May have to leave it overnight to pull the codes during a cold start.

Actually they don't. The federal FMVSS applies only to vehicle manufactures; while state DOT laws (which mirror the FMVSS) govern the operation of your vehicle on public thoroughfares.

This site might may selection easier. https://ikeyless.com/keys-and-remotes/Ford?gclid=Cj0KCQjwm9vPBRCQARIsABAIQYcv0azEbxDlkRGb9rZw2nUhfMCMMNsAaqsXIdvxlDELL0xnpzMh7LcaAtkNEALw_wcB&type=Keys

Here's a manufacturer that offers a turn-key solution (for a price of course). At least you know that everything will work properly afterwards. https://www.infotainment.com/collections/all/products/myford-touch-sync-2-to-sync-3-upgrade Have you thought about how you're going to get updates, inasmuch as Ford will not supply them to you?

Service manual requires the engine to be dropped out of the car for service. Do you have coolant in the engine oil?

Philips 9005 VisionPlus Upgrade Headlight Bulb, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y9VZLB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8-H9zbGKDZ1DM

What I would recommend are the Philips VisionPlus headlights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TNMMZ8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_got9zbWPW3BNW (These are what I use in my MKX, much better distance vision the standard Halagen's and better than Sylvania Silverstar's). I would not recommend the blue tone lights as you can't see as far (the blue coating on the bulb attenuates a lot of the light) and the blue alters your focus (blue focuses in a different plane than yellow, more glare for the driver). I've read that these are also equally good, but I've never used them: OSRAM - Night Breaker Halogen Bulbs (Germany). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G4L1V1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kwt9zb3CPA8V9

Did they retrain the sensor's? Simple procedure, the walk around to each wheel with a handheld device and it trains (teaches) the receiver to recognize each sensor). If one or more is not trained you will get this alarm.