enigma-2

If you're considering disconnecting the battery cable to tow (and you are required to reconnect after a certain period of hours, 6 if I remember) a battery switch would make this job much easier. Examples: BEP 701 Battery Switches - On-Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DUUL9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2bnEBbF512VYA NOCO ID220S 6V-24V 125 Amp Battery Disconnect Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006EH9WUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RenEBbMR5VXYR edit note; the original link was 404, added url to new link.

Consider homeowners insurance. I used ours twice. Have spent much, much more in payments than I have ever claimed. Carry it to protect from the "big one". (And I hope I never have to make a claim). You buy an extended warranty for exactly the same reasons. Loss of an engine, transmission, PTU, etc. Is it worth it, .... maybe.

That's getting harder to get, for an Edge or MKX. When you lease, your are contracting for the full amount of the car and paying back only the deprecation. Finance companies used to base the payments on this estimated amount until gas prices caused SUV's to deprecate faster, leaving them to take the car back and sell at a loss. To offset this possibility, they usually charge an additional percent or so on SUV's and the like, for possible accelerated deprecation. Sometimes you can get a better deal near year end to clear the lot, but it's always prudent to run the numbers just to be sure. Actually, walk away after the settlement by all parties involved. There's a hidden cost at the termination that most people never consider. All leases have a clause that reads that you will return the car in the same shape that you rented it, minus normal wear and tear. Normal wear and tear does NOT include door dings, wheel rash, scratches, windshield chips, etc. You, as the lessor are responsible for repairing all of these; whatever wasn't there when it was new. If you don't the dealer or finance company will send the car to a body shop and have everything fixed, on YOUR dime. (And consider how much a new wheel costs). You could easily spend and extra $500 or more at turn-in time. And the inspection by your dealer is not the last word. You rented from a finance company and they have the last word. After you turn it in and walked away, you can still get a bill from your finance company for something they found and was not fixed by the dealer. And you will pay because it is in tbe contract. You must consider all the costs when you rent, usually you get by in laying out less money each month (renting advantage), but the cost interest of renting is much higher. Add the up front costs of contract creation and several other hidden costs (sometimes added in by the dealer to run the paper, etc.), and you may be laying out more than you think. Keeping the car at the end of the lease is the same as buying it on the lot. However you do know all of its previous history and may be able to avoid having to lay out $$ for dings, etc. It all comes down on how long do you intend to keep the car.

Really is a stunning picture, Jorge. Makes it look electric.

There is no user feedback, so it's really only guessing as to how it performs. Did you also look at this one, just a little more in cost and several answered questions. Should have all the features your looking for. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00UZ7WLAA/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_107_1/139-4416236-6830446?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZY38XVRBN84YRYWKWZBC&dpPl=1&dpID=61To0-j6rJL

A lot of assumptions concern the one failure of a single $2k (or whatever), but from my experience is really comes down to several small (<$800) repairs.

It's actually a common complaint. The most likely cause is the drain for the ac housing has become plugged. The condensate sits in the housing and mold starts to grow (hence the musky smell). Check out a post I added some time back describing hoe to open the drain and use a mold killer. (Last post). http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22152-air-system-cleaning/?fromsearch=1

Little squished, but here you go.. http://www.justanswer.com/ford/2ysoo-layout-54-pin-connector-sync-module.html

Next time you have your bamr open, look at this "accordion gasket" and you will see that it's different from an o ring. Designed to be highly flexible as a rod slides inside its channel and also has to compress under the weight of the moonroof (all while the rod is sliding inside it). I *hope* that it remains pliable for the life of the car, was relived when I see it take its original shape after being in the sun.

Ok, went to the Fort Wayne Children's Zoo on Sunday. Nice sunny, hot day. Left the car closed up when we came out later in the afternoon, the car was hot inside. Opened the moon roof and the accordion gasket had softened and was completely flexible. Opened and closed without falling off. Writing this incase it happens to anyone else. If the gasket comes off (and it can come off quite easily), and get pinched, distorting the shape of the gasket, it can be fixed by re-attaching and letting the sun soften it and retake the original shape.

Ebay. Chrome & carbon fiber are inexpensive (re: http://m.ebay.com/itm/Black-Carbon-Fiber-Look-ABS-Tailgate-Door-Handle-Cover-for-08-14-Ford-Edge/182239176976

Just received a brochure where SAE is offering a seminar for people to understand how to defend against an attack on embedded hardware of things like a cars radio and wireless communication systems. The seminar will cover how to identify hardware components, understand datasheets, debug ports (the hidden paths), attempt to intercept communications between an MCU and external memory and extract the firmware code from an embedded system. Basically it teaches how to reverse engineer the hardware and how to control it. (Great course for crooks). The course ends with the students attempting to break into and take control of a refrigerator or some other custom embedded device. It's already been demonstrated that a person can take control of a car while driving down the highway and cause to to brake to a standstill or perform other nasty tricks by connecting in through the modem. Also crooks have figured out how to take control of your smart access FOB signal, (it's always broadcasting) unlock your car and drive off all while you are happily shopping for your favorite beer. Never gave my refrigerator a second thought though. Two days, Oct 16-17 in Troy Michigan. $1,530. http://training.sae.org/seminars/c1524/

Went back and reread the Maintenance Manual for cars subject to long periods of idling and slow driving (such as Taxi or city traffic, or calif freeway, etc.) and the schedule for spark plug replacment officially drops to 60,000 miles. (Along with a shorter transmission drain interval among other things).

Smaller tires.

I would guess around 5,800 because of the turbos. But it doesn't really by matter because the PCM will ebstablish its own limits due to several factors. Can't say on the 2.7 but on the 3.5l the power drops off dramatically after 5k (fwiw).

I bought OEM fobs (prefer OEM quality) off of Ebay from an authorized Ford dealer. Others have reported here that they purchased aftermarket fobs and had no problems. You can do the programming yourself, easy to do

https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/chevy-put-a-fake-oval-on-the-2019-silverado-test-mule/?utm_source=jan16&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=content

Wasn't that true of all models and engines? To get 3.5k you need to have factory tow package. With an aftermarket hitch, the car's are rated at 2k.

I believe that the OEM illuminated sills actually replace the original sill (they do on my 09). As far as will it void the warranty, theres no easy or simple answer. The best answer is, "it could". Any problems encountered using an aftermarket electrical device could be a problem as it's difficult to predict how the part will interact with the car's electrical system (specifically should it connect to the CAN system). There could also be a problem depending on wich electrical circuit you connect into and how you make that connection. A poorly made connection could fail and short, resulting a failed circit, failed electronics (such as a head unit) or even fire. If you were to install OEM sills and follow the Ford guidelines exactly, it's unlikely you would ever have a warranty issue. Ford "can" void your warranty for installing any aftermarket device, as they clearly state in the warranty. Improperly splicing into the electrical wiring will also give cause to void the warranty. (If in their belief the alteration caused they warranty claim.) Wiring splices require specific tools, specific methods and knowledge of Ford requirements. ((Can you prove in a court of law, that what you did met all of Ford's requirements?)) Why should the warranty underwriter pay for your unauthorized modification?

The gasket is still properly attached to the frame of the bamr. It's the top groove that is separating from the guide rod attached to the bottom of the bamr. (This guide rod slides in and out of the top channel of the gasket). Been thinking, if the gasket has been disconnected for a long time, perhaps it's been squashed out-of-shape and taken this curvature due to the gear of the sun heating the bamr. The heating and cooling cycles may have "tempered" the rubber to hold the twisted shape. If so, perhaps if I were to sit the car in the sun with the roof closed and with the gasket properly fastened, it will "retake" the correct shape over time. Annnnnnd maybe not.

When I closed the roof, I did so slowly (stopping often). It pops off when there's around 3-4" from fully closed. Easy enough to work back on (except you need to be a contortionist), just doesn't stay on. Passenger side I'd fine.

Noticed last week when I arrived at a factory to conduct an inspection that the flexible rubber gasket that connects to a small, thin rail, on the underside of the sliding moon roof, was free and disconnected (only on the drivers side). It also had the appearance that it had been squashed in a twisted "S" curve, indicating that it had been disconnected for some time (getting squished crooked when the roof was closed. I easily reconnected the gasket to the rail and noticed that it became disconnected as the roof was nearly closed. I *think* that the unnatural curve in the gasket is putting too much stress on the "crimp" connection and it just pops off the rail. Currently I have it closed with the gasket connected, hoping that this will re-straighten the curve out of the rubber, but time will tell (may have been disconnected for years afaik.) Anyone have any other ideas as to what I can do to force the rubber gasket back into a straight alignment? Tried over bending the rubber by hand, thinking it would begin the retake the proper shape, but it continues to take the S shape. Thinking of using a hair dryer to heat the rubber, but the old doctors guide, "first do no harm".

2011 -> present LED light replacment kit http://www.precisionled.com/ford-edge-premium-led-interior-lights-kits-2011-present.html

All it takes is one failure ...... You also go this route with life insurance?

Anyone try popping the access cover and releasing the manual lock override?