enigma-2

Top tier gas link to retailers http://www.toptiergas.com/licensedbrands/ Figure that top tier, non-Ethanol gas is about $0.05 a gallon more than the cheap stuff, and at say 15 mpg, breaks down to $0.03 a mile (give or take, it's miniscule no matter how you look at it).

I find it difficult to believe that four7bird's battery us shot. The car's only a year old. Possible I suppose, but I would lean towards checking for water in the gas forming an ice block (starts ok above freezing, does not start below freezing) or reprogramming the pcm (not setting the fuel system rich enough to start after cold soak).

Water in the gas tank is another possibility. Good idea to use a product called "heat" once in late fall to prevent the water in the gas tank from freezing. Although I've never heard of the occurring at 20°. Usually happens when the temp drop to 10°f or lower. But 20°will freeze water given enough time. (Also more prevalent if using gas with Ethanol as the Ethanol draws water to it.)

Does your vehicle have the stop-start feature on your eco? (Car shuts off when you come to a stop, restarts when you take your foot off the brake.) If so, may be that feature that's causing the shut off. Oil light come on when engine switch is in run and engine not running, so that be a normal indication.

I'll attach a pdf of the Ford 07 towing guide. 07RVTTguideApr08.pdf

If it is a water pump, coolant will leak into the engine diluting the oil. When coolant mixes with oil, it turns it a light brown milky. Check the oil to see if it's changed color.

Besides the limitations discussed above, there is also the frontal area considerations, to keep in mind. Ford states that the 2007 Ford Edge has a maximum limitation of 25 sq. ft. (Adding a transmission cooler is necessay as well as going with a Class 3 hitch).

.... Until the fuse blows....

Here's an interesting (technical) read on how both types of oil breakdown. http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/475/oil-breakdown Synthetic is better for engines with turbo's (better all the way around which is why they cost so much more). However, the engine was carefully tested with the blend and Ford recommends it. Is it worth the extra cost to you?

I only use non-Ethanol gas, top-tier gas. Here's a site where you can look up non-Ethanol gas stations in your area. http://www.pure-gas.org/

I'll weigh in with a guess. As the gen 2's underwent a design change, its possible that in order to make the body more aerodynamic they created a faster slipstream one the upper portion of the vehicle than the lower. This would cause the upper area of the doors to be operating at a lower air pressure and causing a partial vacuum to exist (lower pressure at the top or middle of the door in relation to the pressure at the bottom. (I'm thinking only 1 or 2 psi difference). This might then cause a circulation of airflow, entering at the door bottom carrying the debris (dirt, dust, salt) along with it. If this theory is correct, you would need to find a way to interrupt the airflow. I looked on my 09 MKX after we got back running around today (streets covered with snow, slush and salty water) and basically nothing. So my guess is an unintended air flow design change is the (possible) cause.

A penguin is driving along the highway when in his 2013 Ford Edge, suddenly his engine starts running rough and he sees smoke in his rear view mirror. He pulls off the highway and finds the nearest service station, and pulls up to the garage with the car shaking and sputtering. He tells the mechanic what happened, and the mechanic says "OK, give me 10 minutes to check it out." Meanwhile, the penguin sees an ice cream shop across the street. Thinking this is a perfect time for a tasty treat, he heads over and gets himself an ice cream cone. After he finishes, he walks back over to the garage, and asks the mechanic "So, did you find out what's wrong?" The mechanic looks at the penguin and says "It looks like you blew a seal." The penguin quickly wipes his face and says "Oh, no, that's just the ice cream."

If i remember correctly, its inside the center counsel, near the rear.

I could not agree more, any part that contains a Lubricant should have an easy way to change the fluid. I believe the idea behind this is that the unit was designed to last the life of the car. Note that auto manufacturers define the "life of a car" to be the life of the warranty, not for as long as you own it. So if the warranty is say, 50,000 miles, that's how long it's designed to last. I've got a little over 100k on mine and has been subject to towing a boat and towed to Florida and back; still going strong. (Did have the seal replaced around 90-95k so that probably prevented a future failure.)

Did you switch to HID projectors or continue to use the halogen projectors? What brand did you use?

Don't know about the sales tax in the state where you're located, but here in Indiana you pay the 7% sales tax when you go to register the car. Think this is true in every state so you may wish to call your local DMV and check. The devil his due.

I talked with a mechanic at my local dealer and, although there is no recommended service interval, he recommended the flushing the PTU every 30,000 miles. For reference they found mine was starting to leak at just under 90k. Had the seal replaced and new fluid.

Careful what you wish for, your sitting up front as well......

I'm lazy. No argument, I'm just plain lazy, and I use the car wash. Great blower at the end ... and the have a cute gorilla sitting on a swing for entertainment as well. Seriously, I would wonder about blowing dirt from the air into the freshly washed car, under high pressure.

Wonder if Zip Grips ( https://www.bulbhead.com/zip-grip-go-tire-traction-aid.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp8204481&sc_intid=14-00709&gclid=Cj0KEQiA4o3DBRCJsZqh8vWqt_8BEiQA2Fw0eST957efpIGGS5_gXZv1LtiNlS30FeFjrSBvp4xWE-gaAspf8P8HAQf) or Tire Socks would work?

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For two previous oil changes with the dealer, they reported that I needed to replace my brakes soon. (85k). Following this, the brakes were reported as being ok. On the last oil change I specifically asked them to check the brakes and the reported them as being ok. (Currently 100k). So the lesson is, ignore them and they repair themselves. heh

I wouldn't hesitate to get the car to your local dealer. A burning smell is nothing to ignore. Did it smell like an electrical short?

Don't know about changing seats, perhaps by simply adding a seat cover with an extended length would help at a low cost. Example https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MTLYJWF/ref=mh_s9_acsd_newrz_b141uH_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-4&pf_rd_r=2T5VW6M56CY62S023TVX&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=8ecca6d0-1d11-513b-97b9-854a3f638c13&pf_rd_i=15736981

I've heard that December and January are usually slow months because of Christmas. Many dealers are willing to deal to keep cash flow going.