enigma-2

Don't know about the sales tax in the state where you're located, but here in Indiana you pay the 7% sales tax when you go to register the car. Think this is true in every state so you may wish to call your local DMV and check. The devil his due.

I talked with a mechanic at my local dealer and, although there is no recommended service interval, he recommended the flushing the PTU every 30,000 miles. For reference they found mine was starting to leak at just under 90k. Had the seal replaced and new fluid.

Careful what you wish for, your sitting up front as well......

I'm lazy. No argument, I'm just plain lazy, and I use the car wash. Great blower at the end ... and the have a cute gorilla sitting on a swing for entertainment as well. Seriously, I would wonder about blowing dirt from the air into the freshly washed car, under high pressure.

Wonder if Zip Grips ( https://www.bulbhead.com/zip-grip-go-tire-traction-aid.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp8204481&sc_intid=14-00709&gclid=Cj0KEQiA4o3DBRCJsZqh8vWqt_8BEiQA2Fw0eST957efpIGGS5_gXZv1LtiNlS30FeFjrSBvp4xWE-gaAspf8P8HAQf) or Tire Socks would work?

deleted

For two previous oil changes with the dealer, they reported that I needed to replace my brakes soon. (85k). Following this, the brakes were reported as being ok. On the last oil change I specifically asked them to check the brakes and the reported them as being ok. (Currently 100k). So the lesson is, ignore them and they repair themselves. heh

I wouldn't hesitate to get the car to your local dealer. A burning smell is nothing to ignore. Did it smell like an electrical short?

Don't know about changing seats, perhaps by simply adding a seat cover with an extended length would help at a low cost. Example https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MTLYJWF/ref=mh_s9_acsd_newrz_b141uH_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-4&pf_rd_r=2T5VW6M56CY62S023TVX&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=8ecca6d0-1d11-513b-97b9-854a3f638c13&pf_rd_i=15736981

I've heard that December and January are usually slow months because of Christmas. Many dealers are willing to deal to keep cash flow going.

Slightly off (this) topic, was at my dealer today, service rep came into the waiting room and we talked about several things. Tires came up and he was telling me about this guy who has an 2016 Edge Sport with 22" wheels. He just replaced another tire last week, second one in two months of use. Seems any nail or screw will always puncture the sidewall, ruining the tire. On a 20" or 18" it would be in the tread, but on the 22" it almost always hits the sidewall. Said potholes will take out the 22" where a 20" will take the hit and keep going. Couple that with the rock hard drive and one would wonder why anyone would opt for the 22's.

Doesn't comply with the DOT or FMVSS does it? (White light on rear end.)

Should be able to find your part on this page. Might vary due to Vista Roof or other features. http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2007&m=Ford&mo=Edge#Search

There was an excellent write up here in this forum. Was for replacing the door latch, but should give you what your looking for. Here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14262-how-to-replace-door-latch-module-for-door-ajar-warning/

My understanding that premium and mid-grade are the exact same gas except the premium has more anti-knock. My guess is, the failure of one cylinder to fire properly may be sending too much raw fuel into the cats. I would lean towards getting the car running per spec. Unless the cats are actually destroyed (they usually fail by clogging & your not getting any codes), a properly running engine should fix everything. I would imagine removing the car's catolitic's would throw the engine management computer into a tizzy.

I've never seen a car with rear fog lights. Seems a bit strange.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=2013+ford+edge+tail+light&isNewKw=1&isRefine=true&mfs=GOCLK&acimp=0&_trksid=p2056088.m2428.l1313.TR0.TRC0.X2013+ford+edge+tail+light&sqp=2013+ford+edge+tail+light Over 5000 to choose from. Several different styles to choose from. Price for used seems to run around $80 (free shipping) could try offering $70.

Why not drop by a local company that does vinyl wraps and see what they would charge. If you really want to do it yourself, perhaps they could colormatch the color with their sample book.

My local dealer tested my battery and always found it to be peachy. In the mean time I bought a Solar BA-7 battery tester and it showed my battery was low on its CCA and one cell was weak. It rated my battery as being in bad shape. But, I was having no problems (started fine), and chose to believe the Ford garage. Until one fateful Saturday afternoon at out local grocery store. Car full of groceries and click, click. I carry a jumper battery so no problem getting it started. Took it in bright and early Monday morning and had the largest battety that would fit put in. (Had a Ford coupon as well). Your battery is shot. Recommend you get the one designed for the Edge or MKX with factory towing (larger battery). And if you choose Motorcraft, look for a coupon on the Ford website.

Racing stripes? How goash. Now, THIS, would make a statement:

The indicator is more accurate the longer you leave it go. Resetting only at each full fill up will give you a more realistic value.

If is an AWD it could be the PTU leaking either gear lube or trans fluid (hitting hot exhaust).

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/9106-cylinder-numbering/

Have you changed the plugs yet? (Old plugs with large gaps blowing out under pressure ). http://www.myautorepairadvice.com/p0301.html

500+gigabytes????? (1/2 terabyte?) Was this a mistype? Even a half gigabyte would be huge for a car sync system.