enigma-2

Ah ha, but did you compensate for the Millennium Bug? When you do the correct date is February 30th 1981.

But, it would end up nagging you to death about updating your sync, checking your oil and air in the tires, clean the windshield, run a vehicle health report, put on your seatbealt, turn down the radio, stop cussing out the other drivers, slow down, speed up .....

Chromed of course.Eh,... https://bullsballs.com/product/bulls-balls-hangers/

Well, my garage kept, 2009 Lincoln MKX, with 100k mIles has no problems with its trailing arms or bearings. Maybe it's how you drive. Potholes and road hazards car quickly take their toll on a cars suspension. My wife's 04 Sebring Convertible goes through bearings. Third set so far. (And of course the water pump issue and all the known problems with Sebrings. Costs money to keeo a car in good condition.) Ive never had a problem with my PTU either. What kind of problems are you having with yours? Sorry to hear that, they are expensive if they fail.) Personally I find the 09 MKX to be the best car I've ever owned. And I like to keep it as close to showroom as possible, more fun to drive that way. Although it's only my opinion, I feel it's actually a better design than many of the later models (although I have to admit that the 2016's feature that shows a top-down view of all the space surrounding the car, is brilliant. I have to actually turn my head and look in the mirrors to see what's around me when I'm driving. Sync 3 isn't a must have however. Just my opinion.) But back to your car, are you planning on replacing the bearings? Wouldn't want those to fail on a long trip away from home. Never heard of the trailing arms failing. Are you talking about the rubber bushings getting old and worn? At 27k I would get a second opinion. Just doesn't sound right. That just not a part that fails, even if you hit road hazards. Even so, bushings aren't expensive. Sorry you are not happy with your 09 MKX. I really love mine.

What, no chrome valve covers?

That used a interface that allows the screen to be used for dvd while in motion. It also allows the camera to be turned on while driving, as well as adding an additional front-facing camera. Costs a bunch as well. However, it's NOT needed just to add a backup camera. If you have navigation, the camera video feed just plugs into the back ACM. The rest of the thread has a lot of great information on how he added a camera.

Oh pleeeeease. There's nothing more hip than a racoon tail tied to you antenna, a bobble head on the dash, a 108" CB whip bolted to the back bumper and the latest copy of Playboy Magazine sitting conspicuously on the passenger seat. ?

What's the best coating for the windshield? (Rainx only lasts 30 days or until you use the wipers, whichever comes first.)

It can be added, but it's not plug and play. You would have to physically mount the camera (they make ones that mount over the license plate) and then run the wires to the back of the ACM. If you have navigation it will plug into the back of the radio (they make a modified harness that accepts a RCA plug from the camera.) You will also need to have your dealer turn it on, or use your cell phone or laptop to turn it on. To do it yourself, you'll need a wireless adapter and software. If you don't have Navigation, you could change the mirror to one with a LCD screen built in. The power for the camera can be wired directly to the backup light wiring.

How many miles do you have on your car?

More likely, they realized they were losing business. Shame the other dealerships don't get this message. Can I ask who you used and how much did you pay? I paid $80 at local Ford dealer, partly because of the price of the fluid itself. (Was told $40 of the $80 was for the fluid.).

FYI, I paid $80.

Humidity sensor? Wonder what the purpose of that is?

Unrelated to your questions, I was at my local Ford dealer last week for new tires and we talked about changing the fluid in the PTU. I had mentioned that there was no change interval for the PTU (09 MKX) and he corrected me, stating that that Ford does have a change procedure by sucking out the old fluid, ? if the PTU had been in water, such a flooded street. In fact, it HAS to be changed under those conditions. (Been a requirement at least since 2008, if not before.) Said that it was in the owners manual, actually found it. So it makes me wonder where those other dealers are coming up with this no-change crap. It's required under those conditions.

Met another vet at lunch, from WWII. He was in the Army Air Corps and landed in Japan the day after they signed the peace treaty. 92 and still spry. His wife had to keep a eye on him, and he tended to ask the same questions over again, but hey, 92. Said he's going to liverify to 105. (His wife said good luck on that, as she had no intention of living that long.) Wonderful from and very different, and scary, era.

I ran mine down to 0 once, still have gas left. The count down is an average and even when it reads zero there's still gas left.

Thanks for posting this. Was in 1St MAW at Phi Bai (Hue City nearby), tad to Chu Lie for a few weeks doing air sea rescue and spent mote of my time in country at Marble Mountain. Flew as a "door" gunner on the CH-46 and got to see most all of I-Corps (as well as a quiet visit into Laos.) Lonnnng time ago, but still remember it like yesterday. Thanks for your post, Semper Fi.

For those who were in Nam, Iraq or Afghanistan, welcome home. And for all, thank you for your service, your years away from home and your difficulties. America is worth the sacriface. Always, no matter how small or unimportant it may seem. Semper Fi. Ans don't forget to go out and get a free lunch today, I'm just walking out the door for mine. Chicken dinner at local grocery store. Tow pieces of chicken, mashed potatoes and gravy, veggies, cake and free drink. Makes me want to continue shopping there. Ps Just seen Chipster post, didn't mean to jump over, didn't read the latest before posting. Thanks for posting this chipster!

Set of new tires on my 2009 MKX. Bridgestone's Dueler's H/L Ecopia's, 245x50r20. Local Ford dealer agreed to match Tirerack.Com AND $140 rebate! (The price match saved me over $300 right there!) The rebate will come in the form of two debit cards of $70 each. Plus had a four-wheel alignment. Front toe-end was way off, good thing I decided to have done. Also had them wire brush the mating surface of the rims to prevent air leaks. Free car wash (all Lincoln's get free wash with every service) and on my way.

Love those Cobera's. First time I saw one was back in 68 when a pair came flying over MCAF Santa Ana, "upside down". Bout $&/! my pants. Pair of them saved our butts in the Ashaw Valley one day. Never flew on the Osprey, after my time, but 53's were the king back then. I serviced and flew CH-46's as air crew and gunner. What was the Osprey like? How loud inside?

I agree for most of the current tenders I've seen, the jury is out on this system. As I stated, it only protects galvanized sheet metal parts, so seeing corrosion on bare steel parts is no surprise. For a car in a heavy salt slurry area, I yet to see any rust on the belly or anywhere else. So for now I'm still thinking that it might be doing something. The principal of operation is patented. The man that discovered it noticed an old galvanized steel storage tank completely untouched fy rust (while others in the area were.) Being an engineer, he investigated and found the one which was not rusted was being protected by a local radio tower which was inducing currents in the steel. He found that when galvanizing finally breaks down, the zinc will naturally sacrifice itself and slow down the corrosion process. However moisture in the air reacts with the zinc and cause zinc to form zinc oxide. Zinc oxide tends to block zinc from forming across the break and will allow corrosion to form on the unprotected steel. The module generated a pulse to create a radio frequency current in the metal which is supposed to neutralize the oxide from forming. So far (seven years) I'm pleased with the result; but time will tell.

My 2009 MKX still has no body rust, dispite having been registered in Michigan, Ohio and Indiana since new. The roads here in Northern Indiana are particularly bad for rusting in winter months as they switched to a salt slurry a few years ago to start the melting process faster. Eats cars alive however. I use an electronic rust control module, the one that pulses high frequency radio waves. Been on since new. First owner installed when the MKX was new and then took it with him when he bought a new MKX. When I bought it used, I had the same model module put on. Seems to be working as there's no rust on any body panel (including underbelly.) As I understand it, the module only works to prevent rust on galvanized parts. (Comes with a warranty against surface rust and rust through.)

Possibly your touching both the lock and unlock surfaces at the same time (hence the no-unlock action). Know I don't have one of those new-fangled door knobs, but I do know you have to be careful how you touch the handle.

I've often found that you usually have to jump up to a larger socket size in order to get them to break free. Of course if they set for too long, they tend to seize up and no amount of force will get them to cooperate. (The younger fellows in the forum won't get this).

Just replaced my wipers on both cars with Trico Flex. (Top quality wipers). The 26" wiper jumped and chattered when returning from the full up position. Closer examination showed the blade flexed in one direction but not the other. I emailed Tryco about this and they promptly sent me a new blade (which worked perfectly). I've always had good blades with Tryco and feel it's an excellent company to deal with.