enigma-2

Don't know, haven't seen you yet. "There ain't no such thing as a free lunch"

Interesting reading on their usefulness. https://www.carid.com/articles/age-old-debate-do-bug-deflectors-work.html

Its the badges and/or plastic covers they put on the tailgate or rear hatch to glitzy it up a little. The Ford logo double-faced taped on the rear is an applique. You can spend an extra $500 on a Raptor and get a big plastic applique that rads "PLATINUM" on it. Looks great, but for $500?

Or you could just glance down at the speedometer.

I believe there's a couple of situations where you get a single horn chirp. One is when you hit the lock button on your remote and the horn chirps once to verify that all the doors are closed and locked. The other involves the remote start, one chirp means the system has received a engine start signal.

I use a harness wired into my mirror (MirrorTap) for my radar detector, turns on and off with the ignition. But that's 12 volt, not 5 volts. Everything in the mirror (dimming, speaker, etc.) runs on 12 volts as far as I know. Suppose you could tap 12 v.and use an in-line resistor to drop to 5 volts. This is the harness I bought, price took a huge jump over the last couple of years, believe I paid $25. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LBKR2SA/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485588233&sr=8-2-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mirrortap%2Busb&th=1&psc=1

For you fellas that have had this mod for a year or more, have you noticed aNY crazing or burning of the reflective material or premature glazing on the clear cover? Has anyone checked the sockets for burning?

Try here. http://m.bestpartstore.co.uk/ford-edge

I seriously doubt that it would cause an overheating problem, but I seen a car two nights ago with one of these light bars on it, the brightness and glare was considerable. Like someone coming at you with brights on.

... unless you take clients out to lunch on a regular basis. LOL. I was talking with my local service manager about this, his "opinion" was, the "life of the vehicle" is the life of the standard warranty.

Pretty sure that the back is all one piece a the way up into the leather/foam cover. May he possible to remove the entire armrest.

You could have the engine bay cleaned. I use a local full-service detailer and the engine bay looks showroom.

You would have use seats DOT certified for legal proposes. It involves loading at 8x a standard human adult for both the seat and fastening systems as well as the seat belts. The lab testing would run many, many thousands of dollars, far more expensive than would ever be recovered. I work for a nationally recognized testing lab and a competitive lab we are in contact with did do testing for an parallel industry, testing both seats and belts. All of the aftermarket products failed. There's probably no seats you could put in and be legal (or safe in an accidient).

"I Would Rather Be Baking"

I believe you're thinking about the Vehicle Security System, a $200 accessory installed by the dealer. It monitors even small impacts, glass brakage, etc. One smack on the windows and the alarm goes off.

Have you looked on tirerack.Com? They have 100's of choices that will fit. (Ok, that might be an exaggeration, but you get the point).

Once you stick thsee in keep an eye on your housings. I read in another forum where 100w started to burn the housings and connectors. (100 watts is a lot more heat in a small contained space like a housing).

Although ford doesnt recommended changing the (PTU) fluid (AWD) it's been found that the fluid in these units can leak throught the seal and get gooie. (Couldn't think the right word, sorry). Anyway the PTU doesn't get lubricated properly and fails. (Think $$$). It would be a good idea to have your local dealer check the PTU seals and change the fluid. Not all dealers will change the fluid as it's not a recommended procedure and it's a pita to pump out the old and refill. If they don't, try a local professional transmission shop, which will have no problem. (Money well spent). Best to change the fluid every 30k or so, just to be safe. Also recommend changing the transmission fluid and cooling system coolant. (Your dealer will do these). Change the plugs if you gave 90k or more (gap gets too wide, causes too much current to be drawn through the coils and they can fail).

Does it happen if your wife opens the door while still seatbelted? Sounds like a warning for (1) car running, (2) passenger unbelted and (3) door open = passenger (child) in danger, do not put in gear and drive.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but arn't cat convertor's 'cold' when you first start a cold car? A hot converter under heavy acceleration will burn off stored hydrocarbons, but cold?

Looks like part of the battety hold-down.

Believe this is what akirby is referring to : http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118242.html?feed=npn&gclid=Cj0KEQiAnvfDBRCXrabLl6-6t-0BEiQAW4SRUDtdmTY-XvldNWpJ1Q0GT6GEMu1elC56PTSBuSDLuagaAtRJ8P8HAQ

Nice. Love white.

You might be right. I was walking around the auto department at Meijers Saturday and was casually looking at Silverstar's packaging. Everything I looked at was 65 watt, but wasn't really looking to see if they were low or high beam. I don't recall reading where theres a wattage limit in the FMVSS. Years ago, here in Indiana there used to be a legal limit of 100,000 cp total at the front of a car. Was talking to a state patrol officer as to how they enforce to law, said he just looks for excessive glare. If it hurts his eyes, they get stopped. He requires them to get lights checked by a professional mechanic.

Ford has a TSB (10-21-1) to addess this issue, the fix is to replace the pump. "Some 2011 Edge and MKX vehicles may experience a reduction in power steering assist after engine start or during low speed parking maneuvers. Assist levels may return to normal after raising engine RPM and the system returns to normal function. The technician may not be able to reproduce the problem."