enigma-2

If it is a water pump, coolant will leak into the engine diluting the oil. When coolant mixes with oil, it turns it a light brown milky. Check the oil to see if it's changed color.

Besides the limitations discussed above, there is also the frontal area considerations, to keep in mind. Ford states that the 2007 Ford Edge has a maximum limitation of 25 sq. ft. (Adding a transmission cooler is necessay as well as going with a Class 3 hitch).

.... Until the fuse blows....

Here's an interesting (technical) read on how both types of oil breakdown. http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/475/oil-breakdown Synthetic is better for engines with turbo's (better all the way around which is why they cost so much more). However, the engine was carefully tested with the blend and Ford recommends it. Is it worth the extra cost to you?

I only use non-Ethanol gas, top-tier gas. Here's a site where you can look up non-Ethanol gas stations in your area. http://www.pure-gas.org/

I'll weigh in with a guess. As the gen 2's underwent a design change, its possible that in order to make the body more aerodynamic they created a faster slipstream one the upper portion of the vehicle than the lower. This would cause the upper area of the doors to be operating at a lower air pressure and causing a partial vacuum to exist (lower pressure at the top or middle of the door in relation to the pressure at the bottom. (I'm thinking only 1 or 2 psi difference). This might then cause a circulation of airflow, entering at the door bottom carrying the debris (dirt, dust, salt) along with it. If this theory is correct, you would need to find a way to interrupt the airflow. I looked on my 09 MKX after we got back running around today (streets covered with snow, slush and salty water) and basically nothing. So my guess is an unintended air flow design change is the (possible) cause.

A penguin is driving along the highway when in his 2013 Ford Edge, suddenly his engine starts running rough and he sees smoke in his rear view mirror. He pulls off the highway and finds the nearest service station, and pulls up to the garage with the car shaking and sputtering. He tells the mechanic what happened, and the mechanic says "OK, give me 10 minutes to check it out." Meanwhile, the penguin sees an ice cream shop across the street. Thinking this is a perfect time for a tasty treat, he heads over and gets himself an ice cream cone. After he finishes, he walks back over to the garage, and asks the mechanic "So, did you find out what's wrong?" The mechanic looks at the penguin and says "It looks like you blew a seal." The penguin quickly wipes his face and says "Oh, no, that's just the ice cream."

If i remember correctly, its inside the center counsel, near the rear.

I could not agree more, any part that contains a Lubricant should have an easy way to change the fluid. I believe the idea behind this is that the unit was designed to last the life of the car. Note that auto manufacturers define the "life of a car" to be the life of the warranty, not for as long as you own it. So if the warranty is say, 50,000 miles, that's how long it's designed to last. I've got a little over 100k on mine and has been subject to towing a boat and towed to Florida and back; still going strong. (Did have the seal replaced around 90-95k so that probably prevented a future failure.)

Did you switch to HID projectors or continue to use the halogen projectors? What brand did you use?

Don't know about the sales tax in the state where you're located, but here in Indiana you pay the 7% sales tax when you go to register the car. Think this is true in every state so you may wish to call your local DMV and check. The devil his due.

I talked with a mechanic at my local dealer and, although there is no recommended service interval, he recommended the flushing the PTU every 30,000 miles. For reference they found mine was starting to leak at just under 90k. Had the seal replaced and new fluid.

Careful what you wish for, your sitting up front as well......

I'm lazy. No argument, I'm just plain lazy, and I use the car wash. Great blower at the end ... and the have a cute gorilla sitting on a swing for entertainment as well. Seriously, I would wonder about blowing dirt from the air into the freshly washed car, under high pressure.

Wonder if Zip Grips ( https://www.bulbhead.com/zip-grip-go-tire-traction-aid.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp8204481&sc_intid=14-00709&gclid=Cj0KEQiA4o3DBRCJsZqh8vWqt_8BEiQA2Fw0eST957efpIGGS5_gXZv1LtiNlS30FeFjrSBvp4xWE-gaAspf8P8HAQf) or Tire Socks would work?

deleted

For two previous oil changes with the dealer, they reported that I needed to replace my brakes soon. (85k). Following this, the brakes were reported as being ok. On the last oil change I specifically asked them to check the brakes and the reported them as being ok. (Currently 100k). So the lesson is, ignore them and they repair themselves. heh

I wouldn't hesitate to get the car to your local dealer. A burning smell is nothing to ignore. Did it smell like an electrical short?

Don't know about changing seats, perhaps by simply adding a seat cover with an extended length would help at a low cost. Example https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MTLYJWF/ref=mh_s9_acsd_newrz_b141uH_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-4&pf_rd_r=2T5VW6M56CY62S023TVX&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=8ecca6d0-1d11-513b-97b9-854a3f638c13&pf_rd_i=15736981

I've heard that December and January are usually slow months because of Christmas. Many dealers are willing to deal to keep cash flow going.

Slightly off (this) topic, was at my dealer today, service rep came into the waiting room and we talked about several things. Tires came up and he was telling me about this guy who has an 2016 Edge Sport with 22" wheels. He just replaced another tire last week, second one in two months of use. Seems any nail or screw will always puncture the sidewall, ruining the tire. On a 20" or 18" it would be in the tread, but on the 22" it almost always hits the sidewall. Said potholes will take out the 22" where a 20" will take the hit and keep going. Couple that with the rock hard drive and one would wonder why anyone would opt for the 22's.

Doesn't comply with the DOT or FMVSS does it? (White light on rear end.)

Should be able to find your part on this page. Might vary due to Vista Roof or other features. http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2007&m=Ford&mo=Edge#Search

There was an excellent write up here in this forum. Was for replacing the door latch, but should give you what your looking for. Here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14262-how-to-replace-door-latch-module-for-door-ajar-warning/

My understanding that premium and mid-grade are the exact same gas except the premium has more anti-knock. My guess is, the failure of one cylinder to fire properly may be sending too much raw fuel into the cats. I would lean towards getting the car running per spec. Unless the cats are actually destroyed (they usually fail by clogging & your not getting any codes), a properly running engine should fix everything. I would imagine removing the car's catolitic's would throw the engine management computer into a tizzy.