enigma-2

One other thing to consideris if you trade the car in with a dealer, they will reduce the value of the car by what it costs to bring it back into your state's emission standards. (At least that's true for my state of Indiana.) Ok if private sale, but dealers are required to maintain emmision standards.

= akirbyism

Amazon.com Btw, I use PuraClean Filter Spray on my cabin filter to make it more efficient. (Been using it on my furnace filters and make visible difference.)

Really sharp! Another minor mod to consider is going with Weathertech (or equal) floor & cargo mats. Great protection. (Nice, really an attention getter. Don't speed, cops love red cars.)

During my last "visit" with my dealer, service agent didn't have anything better to do and came in the waiting room to shoot to poop. We talked about a lot of nothing but one thing he mentioned was another customer who had 21" tires on his new MKX. ge had just replaced his second tire in (I believe) three - four months. This time he took a nail in the tread. Normally an easy fix, there's so little sidewall that any puncture damages the sidewall and need to replace the tire. His first failure was hitting a chuck hole. Couple that with the very hard ride these tires cause, and you might reconsider going this route. Perhaps talking with the service agent of your dealer and see what his opinion is on going with the 21" wheelies.

The current version of Android is 6.0.1. Are you running the latest operating system?

Mac, do you think the use of Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner would clean up the cylinders (or valves)?

You misunderstood, the manual allows synthetic and it's use will not void your warranty. It was the use of the ☆wrong weight☆ oil that Ford will not permit, specifically the use of 40 weight. My reference to synthetic was that my Simplicity owners manual specifically allowed it and the dealer refused to use it during breaker in. A call to the factory confirmed that it should not be used during the break in period, but the engineer had no answer as to why it was not clear in the manual. It's use in this case didn't void the warranty but it also didn't allow the engine to break in properly.

Are you saying that when you connected to your home wireless system (for example), that it disconnects (icon goes out) or that the icon go off while driving? I believe that the icon only shows when the system detects a nearby signal, otherwise it does not show on the screen. If you are near a wireless router and it still is not connecting, try a reboot (in the systems menu). Failing that, take it back to the dealer.

Others here mentioned this (seems it was on the 2013, but could be others as well.) One member recommended greasing the rear door hinges and that seemed to work.

This also hapoens to me this winter. Took it the local dealer and all the tires were around 3-4 psi low. Said that when they changed the tires they had retrained them while it was warm. When it turned cold the sensor's became too sensitive. They just retained them and have worked ok in near zero weather. You can buy a device to retrain them, bet the dealer will do it without charge (they didn't charge me anything.)

Many moons ago, Mobile gasoline used to sponsor a cross-country drive involving several different car makes, but just using Mobile gasoline (to "prove" how much better fuel economy you could get with Mobilegas). Of course they used every trick in the book, but they disclosed the real trick was how they trained their drivers. They use to place a raw egg between the drivers foot and gas petal and the driver had to qualify in their driving school without braking the egg. The most difficult time was accelerating from a stop. Basically they figured it was this trick alone that accounted for the bulk of the improvement.

These intermittent electrical problems are a real dickings to track down. Here's the process I would follow to find the culprit: using a multimeter, disconnect the positive cable from the battery and place the meter in series with the battery. With everything off, your shouldn't see more then than a few milliamps of draw (say <50 ma). If you do, find the fuse panel and start pulling fuses until the draw drops to just a few milliamps. If this doesn't discover the circuit, next try removing the positive cable going to the altenator and see if the draw stops (alternators are also a possible source of draw). The above process should find the source, but before this I would allow the car to sit for awhile and then (without opening any door) look inside the car in a dark garage (or driveway) to see if there is a light still buring. My wife's Sebring had this problem and it turned out to be one of the interior lights. We determined that whenever she adjusted her rearview mirror, she was accidentally bumping the light switch (convertible, the interior lights are on the rearview mirror and the switches are on the underside of the mirror). She usually shut the car off while it was still light outside or in the garage where the interior garage lights automatically turn on and never noticed the light staying on. It can be something just as simple as this.

Completely agree. I used to do the full synthetic (Mob 1) but it does cost $20 more. Unrelated, I had my local tractor dealer pick up my Simplicity Lawn Tractor for annual service. Told them to replace the Dino with Mobile 1 and he refused. Said the tractor needed Dino until broke in. (I think he said 50 hours). I went down to shop and took my owners manual. It clearly stated that synthetic was ok. He continued to refuse so we called Simplicity engineering and talked with their engine specialist. He backed the dealer and admitted that the OM was wrong, that small engines need Dino during the break in period; to allow the rings and valves to seat. The synthetic is supposed to be too slippery to get a good seal on the rings and valve seats. (Paraphrasing the Simplicity engineer). I suppose the same logic could be extended to an automobile engine (although the manuals clearly state that synthetic is fine). Might be the reason that Ford offer a blend in their oil changes, best of both worlds.

Believe it was put out years ago in a memo to their dealers about using 10W-40. Dealer told me about it. If there was an engine failure of any kind, the dealer was required to verify if the customer was using the correct weight oil.

There's an access panel in the liftgate cover located in the at cargo area. You can pry it off (might be easier using a key) reach inside and pull the release. Btw, I would have lowered the back seats to unload the groceries. Too much risk of back sprain lifting them over the seats. (But then again, I'm lazy).

Check to see that the name of your phone (settings, phone info) is the same as being reported in Sync. If different, try changing the name of your phone (in phone settings) to match what Sync is showing.

Check to see that the name of your phone (settings, phone info) is the same as being reported in Sync. If different, try changing the name of your phone (in phone settings) to match what Sync is showing.

It was 11° here yesterday. Rear defroster went on as soon as the car was started. 09 mkx, 100k miles. No one seems to know exactly what's causes the windows to brake (akirbyism). My 'guess' is it's mechanical stress (in a bind).

You may read that there have been a lot PTU failures. My local dealer told me (right or wrong) they it was their opinion that the PTU fails when the seal starts leaking. This allows the fluid level to drop and remaining fluid gets too hot and turns to goo. I think it would be a good idea to run the car throught your local dealer for your next oil change and ask them to take a close look at the PTU seal (make certain it's not leaking). Leaking or not, it will eventually go bad. The PTU is designed to last the life of the car (which is defined as the life of the warranty.)

If I remember correctly I paid $40 at local Ford dealership. A lot of others in the forum have found their local dealers will not do this. If so, call a local professional transmission shop.

Really nice looking car. If I might make a recommendation, if you can't verify any past service history, I would recommend having the transmission serviced, the PTU flushed and the cooling system flushed.

Went the Advance Auto to get a replacement rear wiper blade. Had the clerk look up the number (they live for that) and he grabbed the last one on the rack. Paid and he asked if I would like for them to put it on. Said sure, he popped the old one off and tried to get the new one on. Pressed and pressed and it refused to go on. Finally I tried and noticed that it was the wrong blade (post that clips onto the arm was about twice as thick as oem). So in the process, he distorted the clip on the arm so that the center stud no longer fastened (the blade stayed in place by the spring pressure). So I had to replace the arm. Got a new arm and thought that I'd pop off the arm, no sweat. If you have never done this, it does not come off. Used a wheel puller; nada. If anyone ever needs to remove this arm, the only way to get it off is to use a Dremnel with a cutoff blade. I made two cuts on opposite sides all the way to the metal stud. The back of the arm popped off, but the damn arm with over half the back part cut off still refused to come off. Used a gear puller and finally it came free.

Installing my radar detector I bought a harness and wired it into the back of my mirror. It's switched with the ignition and is on the time delay (until door opens).

$90 seems a little high for a straight pump-out and refil, but well worth it if they really do a flush.