enigma-2

If it's still the same as the older models, you life up on the rear-most section and swing it up. (I popped mine off for easier access, spread edges and pull off). Remove the 5/8" nut and pull wiper arm off shaft. Then reset in new position. Note I was unable to remove my arm when I changed it on mine last month, had to cut the back of the arm off and use a wheel puller as it froze solid to the shaft. Take care you don't put excess pressure on glass.

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Perhaps this product might be effective as well. http://www.carbrite.com/products/Exterior-Care/Cleaners/Specialty-Exterior-Cleaners/Fallout-Removers/Metallic-Fallout-Remover/

Sorry, I didn't make myself clear. I meant to mount the resovior in the back of the engine compartment and attach a drain connection (perhaps copper tube) so that 'it' extended down to below the engine. The end of the pipe plugged, but accessible, when doing an oil chainge. Point I was so poorly attempting to make was, mounting the can at the back of the engine would make accessing it difficult otherwise. But extending the drain connection to under the engine made draining it readily accessible and it no longer mattered where the actual can was mounted.

Due to the limited mounting space available on the Edge & MKX's, I was wondering if it were possible if a catch can couldn't be mounted in a remote location and have the drain extended to the underside of the engine compartment? After all, you could then drain it at the same time as the oil drain.

I'm assuming that it just started. Has your neighbor also seen the same condition? Its possible that it may also be industrial fallout. Here in N. Indiana, we get large amounts of acid rain which contains small particles of ash from the steel Mills over near Chicago. This stuff can travel dozens and even hundreds of miles. If you leave it on your car it will etch itself into the finish. Have you thought of trying a paint remover like terpentine? (Very gently and very limited use of course, in a nonexposed location). Thinking there may possibly be a paint shop nearby. Several have suggested a railroad yard. Is there one nearby? (I would think that if so, it would have been a problem for many years).

Sorry to revive an old thread. Many of the op's stated that they were around 100k on mileage. One part that directly affects fuel economy and is subject to milage is the mass airflow sensor. Located just after the air cleaner, it consists of a fine wire element, exposed directly to all of the air entering the engine. Over time (aka miles) it will accumulate a fine film of dirt over the wire. This, in turn will throw off the air flow reading to the computer and directly affect gas milage. To clean it, you unplug the electricsl connector, then pop off the air cleaner housing and spray "mass airflow sensor cleaner" directly on the device. (Never touch the wire as it's very delicate). Use only a cleaner designed specifically for a mass airflow sensor, never anything else. IE https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J19XSA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487399543&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mass+airflow+sensor+cleaner Follow directions on the can, don't get too close. Let dry and spray liberally again. Before reinstalling the housing containing the MAF let it dry completely. High mileage isn't the only thing that affects the sensor. If your not using an OEM air filter, you may be allowing fine dirt to bypass the filter (a slight gap anywhere around the filter seal is sufficient) will cause the MAF to get coated faster. (Just can't beat Motorcraft filters). It's especially true if your using an oiled air cleaner, as the oil will lightly coat the wire and throw off the sensor. If you use these, remember to clean the MAF regularly.

Bee pollen. (At least that's what researchers in Southern California found). http://articles.latimes.com/2007/oct/31/autos/hy-wheels31

That's really surprising. But I suppose they have their reasons. I called twould local shops and both had no problems in sucking out the old fluid and pumping on new. Eventually went with my local Ford service. (Service agent told me they couldn't do it, had him call up the actual technician and he was the one who said no problem.) My local dealer found my seal leaking around 84k, had them replace the seal and fluid change. The dealer told me it was common for my milage and had caught it early.

You may not be able to recoup what you put in the brakes. I would price it about 5% under local lot price (normal selling price) and then let them talk me down. You might get top dollar if you have it detailed. $250 for the detail could easily allow you you ask an additional $1000. Nothing sells better than clean and shinny.

Depends on what you order. The Motorcraft seat filter FS-104 has the filter element, the seat filter FS-106 has larger holes and no filter material. I ordered the 104 as that's what had been in my car as OEM.

That's a little higher than retail (for my location), all depends of your location and particulars. http://m.nadaguides.com/Cars/2012/ford/EDGE-V6/Wagon-4D-Sport-AWD/Values https://www.edmunds.com/ford/edge/2012/tmv-appraise.html?sub=suv&zip=&style=101399454

If you have never Visited this sitd, believe you would find it interesting. Www.Bobistheoklguy.com Forums covering oil, filtets, lubrication, etc. I had a lot of rust repaired on a 98 Mercury Sable I owned. Think I put about $1800 in it; gave it an extra two years, maybe not worth it, but I liked the car (smooth and confortable) and didn't want car payments at that time. I would have a good look under the car first. Fenders, hood, no biggie to have repaired. But if the car is going bad underneath, it's a losing battle. One place to look (that's often overlooked) is up at the top of the shock towers.

Any professional transmission shop will change the fluid at a nominal cost.

Personally I dont trust Fram. Feel it's best to use Motorcraft. Esp true of oil filters This doesn't sound good. Is the rust coming from behind or surface rust? If it were me, I'd run it through a local body shop and have it taken down to bare metal, recorded with zinc and the repaired. I would want to get ahead of this, esp with Michigan highway salt. Locally here in N. Indiana they switched to salt slurry. Really hard on cars.

Here's a site that discusses mounting. They recommend solid attachment to a metal surface. http://www.vleds.com/hyper-flash-fix-load-resistors

Cupped tires will cause vibration but may still balance ok. Tires can develop a flat spot & out of round during a hard braking stop.

This discussed here before (booster changed, problem came back). Seems they found the master cylinder was leaking into the booster, causing it to go bad (again). Pedal going to floor typically sounds like a master cylinder problem. You can pump up the pedal and get a hard pedal. One test (that used to work in older cars) is the put hard, continuous, pressure on the break (heh, heh, heh) pedal and hold it there. If the pedal slowly, but continously goes down, it usually indicates the fluid is leaking past the brake piston. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/4507-breake-pedal-problem/

On my 09 MKX, the fan comes on low when the heat is turned on. You can hear it when the radio is off and I turn on the heat for the passenger seat. There's a quiet "whosh" and then the fan goes down low. Any higher and it would burn your nu*s off. Not completely certain, but I believe the Ford and Lincoln used the same design; ie peltier element to both heat and cool the seats. Note that both front seats have an air filter that need to be changed or cleaned over time. They're round, about 4"in diameter and near the center of the seat. Twist on/off.

As it's occurring on other 2026's, is there any possibility that it's the BPV causing it? Does the sound go away when you step on the brakes?

Although unrelated, this TSB on PTU's goes back to 05 models (not Edge or MKX) and I thought it was interesting. http://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/attachments/f26/1499d1280804183-changed-my-ptu-fluid-tsb09-04-04.pdf

Reading through the class action website certainly does appear that the unit is prone to failure. Most seem to be in the 2007 model year, and milage mostly appears to be in the 100k range. I would disagree that it's the number one problem, that honor would probably be the door closed switch. I had a leaking seal replaced in October (or thereabouts) and asked the technician how many PTU had they replaced (in 2016). He said three or four. (City of 40k). Paid $100 as still under extended warranty; said it would have been around $600 without. Curious, what year do you have again and about what was your milage when it failed?

I was reading through the class action prelim and was amazed at the difference of cost to replace. Seems to run the gammit from $900 to atound $2500. Mist seem to be for the 2007 model year, but 2013 and 2024's are included. Most seem to occur around 100k or more. One person stated that the Escape's PTU has a lifetime warranty. If that's right, makes me wonder ... In reading the bulk of the complaints, appears that leaking seals precipitate the failures. (They found mine leaking a couple of oil changes back and had the seal replaced. Think this was around the 92k mark.) So monitor the seal at each oil change and have the fluid changed every 30k or so and (((hopefully))) that will delay the inevitable. Every PTU will fail eventually. (Just like every man will get prostate cancer if he lives link enough.) In all honestly, there's been more than one million Edge's built (through 2015), not counting the other Ford and Lincoln models, and the number of failures we know of, a few hundred (or a few thousand) vs. several million built....

There's been so much back and forth on this, I went and checked the service manual. It stated that if the fluid is black and has an acrid smell, it's ok. It also stated that the fill was 18 oz. Also, if you remove the plug to check or fill the unit, it's to be discarded and a new plug used in its place. Anytime the unit had been submerged it is to be changed. Apparently if water gets in through the vent, the fluid is toast. (Also same same for the rear axle.)

Ummmm, yes and no. What are you basing your remarks on? I've never seen any real staticists regarding what percentage of Ford and Lincoln PTU units have actually failed. (2%, 5%, 10%, 25%, 50%?) Do you know of a website that posts real numbers? I would be interested in knowing. That said, older PTU units are a source of concern. Maintaining the unit "should" extend its life. I have just over 100k and never had a problem. Had the fluid changed once & service found the seal leaking and had it replaced. Service technician told me, he thought that once the seal starts to leak, the unit looses its lubricant and what's left gets gummy and fails to lubricate the gears and bearings properly. Then it fails. But all things considered, it's still only designed to last the life of the car, which is conversely the "life of the warranty".