enigma-2

Just curious, why don't you consider just using a Mirror Tap? Much easier to install, inexpensive and powers on with the ignition, has the std delay and car off until doir open. You can wire in one minute.

Ever think of using a transmission sealer? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0079JWMME/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

If it seems speed dependant, it could also be a tire that broke a cord.

Go down to your dealer and ask if you can try the SD card in one of their used cars. If it works, you have a ACM faiure. If not, the card got zapped and needs to be replaced.

Heh, just wait for the 2019 model when Samantha calls you on your (linked) cell phone in the middle of the night and reminds you that the FOB is still in the car and you don't remove it in three minutes, she's going to sound the panic alarm ten times an hour for the rest of the night. (Ok, it's getting late and I need some coffee).

I read it was a hardware mod.

Oh I'm not arguing the point, in fact I fully agree. I wish they would. I just don't see it happening. Selling map updates is a good source of revenue. Remember they don't just sell the car once you know.

I'm not certain if it's actually a scam, there have been a lot of failures, but the overall percentage is not as high as it would seem. I was in for an oil change a couple of months ago and the mechanic told me that he found the seal leaking (wasn't bad, no drops on the garage floor), but it would only get worse over tine. Told him to go ahead and change the seal. Was talking to the service manager after he left and asked if they are finding a lot of PTU failures. Said they had changed some not a lot, and they felt that it was the seal leaking that was the cause. As the fluid slowly leaked out, the fluid remaining was to little to lubricate properly and became overheated; turning to a sludge. At that point all lubrication stops and the unit fails. He thought that if there was no leak, the unit should continue to give good service. Whatever its worth, I had the fluid changed in my PTU last year. They (dealer) used a pump to suck out the old fluid through the fill plug. I had asked to speak with the mechanic as to whether I should do this or not (as its not a Lincoln recommended service requirement). He said he felt it was a very good idea. Think they charged me around $80, mechanic said alot of the cost was in the price of the fluid. (Stuff must retail for $40 a pint or near that. But that's what you pay at a dealer). Course you could always consider just going with a FWD and eliminate the problem altogether. <highfive>

I would question that. Here's an OEM protector for just over $60.http://parts.showalterford.com/ford/edge/ft4z17b807a/2016-year/sport-trim/2-7l-v6-gas-engine/exterior-cat/covers-and-protectors-scat/?part_name=bumper-protector-rear

Would something like this trip your trigger? https://www.amazon.com/2015-2016-Ford-Bumper-Protector-Guard/dp/B018F52ZD6 Here's a stainless one that wraps for under $60 https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32730386521.html#autostay

There are several attempts for a repair on this problem, here's a good example on how one fella did a quick, two minute fix. (below). It seems to be related to a plastic "arm" that triggers the switch getting gunked up a sticking in the up position. There are several videos on YouTube, check this one out and see if will help those of you having this problem.

Two things I don't like about it, first it's too expensive, and second don't like the fact that it displays a highly reflective surface on the rear that will reflect headlights and sunlight.

Hah! You wish.

Prevents used and bogus copies from showing up on Ebay. Takes just as long to download (as it takes a DVD to copy to the hard drive in gen ones), and still forces you to pay the bucks.

Widely discussed here in this forum (common problem). Do a search and you will find several posts discussing how to fix. Basically several have found that spraying electrical contact cleaner on the switch and/or working the lever will fix the sticking problem. If you take it to Ford, the fix is to replace the switch.

I've changed the mirrors in my 09, you manually push the glass towards the inside corner, use a flat blade screwdriver, push it into the round clip assembly at the center of the glaas and twist. It will pop loose so be ready to catch the glass. Unplug the wiring connectors. It's really easy. To install, plug in the wiring connectors, and press on until you hear a pop. (You don't always hear a pop, but press hard anyway). Here's a listing of a mirror that fits your 2015, look at the third picture of the back of the mirror. You will see what the plastic clips looks like and how they clip on to the mirror body http://www.ebay.com/itm/321611626027

You could also download a free app for your smartphone. Personally, I prefer to use the nav system in my car.

On my 09 MKX, I hit the first button, wait a second and then enter the remaining numbers fairly quickly. Opens every time. (BTW, my 09 uses the old fashioned key type FOB. I have a second FOB hidden in the car if I need it, and have been known to lock the car while running. Just plug in the door code to unlock).

My 09 MKX is platinum white and the spoiler is black (matches the BAMR & back window). Think white does look better.

Try running a HVAC self test and see if it throws any codes. I posted a link in a different post on the procedure http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21259-actuator-issues/?fromsearch=1

It could very well be a dirty air filter, but there's also a good possibly that the ac drain is clogged and there is a mold/mildew buildup in the cord housing. Both are easily fixable, here is a link to changing a filter on a 2015 escape (believe this will work in an edge): https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hBjIF7Ct1zc Here's a link for a 2015 Explorer http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-Explorer-HVAC-Cabin-Air-Filter-Replacement-Guide/ (should be changed approximately every six months), To cLear the blockage here's a link to a YouTube video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi22mdXj3wM and where to buy Lubegard to sanitize the core housing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=+Lubegard+96030+Kool-It+Evaporator+and+Heater+Foam+Cleaner ONE way to tell if you have a blocked or restricted drain, run the ac and see if there's any drainage coming from under the car.

AFAIK all of the power outlets are hot at all times. You would need to rewire the socket to a hot in run circuit or wire in a relay which activates from a hot in run circuit.

I didn't see the procedure to activate the test, so if anyone is interested, here is the the procedure for an old ford: To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed. If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given. If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation. To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank). To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared. Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

If they're anything like mine, their wired directly to battery power through the fusebox in the engine compartment. (Always under power).

If they're anything like mine, their wired directly to battery power through the fusebox in the engine compartment. (Always under power).