enigma-2

On my 09 MKX, I hit the first button, wait a second and then enter the remaining numbers fairly quickly. Opens every time. (BTW, my 09 uses the old fashioned key type FOB. I have a second FOB hidden in the car if I need it, and have been known to lock the car while running. Just plug in the door code to unlock).

My 09 MKX is platinum white and the spoiler is black (matches the BAMR & back window). Think white does look better.

Try running a HVAC self test and see if it throws any codes. I posted a link in a different post on the procedure http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21259-actuator-issues/?fromsearch=1

It could very well be a dirty air filter, but there's also a good possibly that the ac drain is clogged and there is a mold/mildew buildup in the cord housing. Both are easily fixable, here is a link to changing a filter on a 2015 escape (believe this will work in an edge): https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hBjIF7Ct1zc Here's a link for a 2015 Explorer http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-Explorer-HVAC-Cabin-Air-Filter-Replacement-Guide/ (should be changed approximately every six months), To cLear the blockage here's a link to a YouTube video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi22mdXj3wM and where to buy Lubegard to sanitize the core housing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=+Lubegard+96030+Kool-It+Evaporator+and+Heater+Foam+Cleaner ONE way to tell if you have a blocked or restricted drain, run the ac and see if there's any drainage coming from under the car.

AFAIK all of the power outlets are hot at all times. You would need to rewire the socket to a hot in run circuit or wire in a relay which activates from a hot in run circuit.

I didn't see the procedure to activate the test, so if anyone is interested, here is the the procedure for an old ford: To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed. If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given. If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation. To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank). To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared. Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

If they're anything like mine, their wired directly to battery power through the fusebox in the engine compartment. (Always under power).

If they're anything like mine, their wired directly to battery power through the fusebox in the engine compartment. (Always under power).

I had my 09 fans replaced in late August. Covered under the extended warranty but the told me the bill would have been between $700 & $800. (However they also evacuated the ac and recharged as the high side was a little low, told me it was common to lose a little refrigerant over the years). So probably closer to the $700 figure at a ford dealer.

Not to discredit the quality on the mats, but I always get a kick out of the translation when using translator software. Here's how they describe the mats in the Ebay listing: "Made of anti-skid material. Shaped in Cellular, cylindrical or pyramid structure, it's designed to store some rain and snow, sand and dust and prevent it from remaining within various storage boxes in the car with a long-life service endurance."

I have a Solar BA7 battery checker which has shown my battery with over 14 volts but around 100+ low on CCAs. But it cranked the engine just fine as it always started. Until Saturday at the grocery story. Dead. Couldn't believe it, started great all day. I jumped it wit a small jumper battety I carry (mainly to help others who have a dead battety) and we git home ok. Started next day 1st time but not rest od day. Put the Solar checker on it and was reading 10.4 volts and was unable to get a valid CCA reading. Had a new Motorcraft Max battery put in at local Ford dealer and all is well. You have a bad battery. Everything can be traced back to a weak battery.

Why not just buy a primed grill and have the dealer's body shop paint it? (Or any local body shop). Great car, have fun learning all of the Sync voice commands, we'll have a test ready after one month. Lol.

Oh no, that only affects the rear suspension.

On mine, there is a separate pack containing the handle with wrench, and directions. I believe that on the 2015 the wrench and jack handle connect to the jack body. There always a diagram supplied in the spare area showing exactly how to secure the spare as it's a safety item. (Loose spare tires can kill in an accident. I can personally verify this, happened on a head-on immediately after it had happened, loose spare flew up and killed the passenger) This page may help http://www.twotwentyone.net/car-series-spare-tire-how-to-change-the-tire/

I have a 2009 MKX. I verified that the transmission fluid was changed at 60k (important), and had the PTU fluid changed at 70k. Had the car detailed inside and out. Have Weathertech mats front, rear and cargo. Recommended. Installed an Escort Passport Max2 radar detector just below the mirtor, wired it into the back of the mirror. Somewhat a lead foot and it's save my can several times. (Last weekend actually, cop hiding on backside if hill on bypass, I picked him up 1/4 mile out and slowed, pulled into right hand lane, guy behind me felt the speed limit wasn't fast enough, continued driving 80 and got nailed as we crested to hill. The dealer found the PTU seal leaking at 94k and had it changed (no fluid on garage floor, looked like it had just started to leak. Ford mechanic at dealer told me that loss of fluid over time causes the remaining fluid to get gummy and stop lubricating. Causes the PTU to fail). Definitely something to keep an eye on as you have AWD. Got a engine light around 74k, turned out to be a broken vacuum hose. Dealer said it was not common, only 2nd one they had replaced. Had plugs replaced at 90k service iterval. Dealer told me if they are not serviced, the gap grows larger and causes them to draw more current, causing extra heat and coil failure. I've had no problems whatsoever with the APM (radio, navigation), sync or the APIM (bluetooth, usb). CD, DVD and Jutebox works great too. Had a problem with text messaging until Samsung had an update. Worked perfectly after that. I subscribe to Sirius radio, has some nice points (news such as CNN & Fox, sports, comedy channels, specific music chanels like 50's & 60's, Willie's Roadhouse, dozens of others, etc.). I'll be replacing the battery on Tuesday (battery checker showed that it was starting to fail, finally started to fail yesterday. Then new brakes and tires (next year). Have plans to add a backup camera and tie it into the navigation screen. Have the camera and harness, just lazy in getting started.

Been following this thread, I may have missed it, but did you ever pull the codes? You will definitely get codes for a no-start, what were they?

Wonder how much light is attenuated by the film? I'm all for vanity and glitz, but personally I would rather have more light on the road than a worthless (to me) dress up item.

Duck tape it. Use the green stuff. (What was that old expression, "if it's green it good, if it flys its better, Gung ho.")

Hello from Indiana. Believe you will love the Edge, I have an older MKX; best car I've ever owned. Whatever you decide, keep us informed, like to know how you come out. BTW, what's the weather like in the Netherlands this time of year?

Took mine in a couple of weeks ago for warm AC at idle, they replaced the fan assembly AND found it was a little low on refrigerant. Ran a vacuum test, passed, told me it's common to lose a small amount of refrigerant over the years due to seals swelling in the summer and shrinking in the winter. Just saying ...

I've never done it, so that this as a guess, but I would assume you have to remove the bumper cover before you can access the two nuts that hold them on.

Not that familiar with a 12, on my 09 mkx the bottom tray lifts out to make the second storage compartment deeper, but it also exposes to inside of the console (small stuff could fall in there). Was thinking that there may be something similar on yours. Any possibility that something may have fallen under the rear seat (sound travels).

Oops, sorry, don't believe that this will work on a 2012. Try the troubleshooting tips lsited on this page http://ford-life.com/2012/02/14/10-easy-diy-microsoft-sync-setups-fixes/

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FS-104-Seat-Filter/dp/B001CA9CN8 When changing, run the seats all the way forward and all the way up (for clearance), service from the back seat floor area. I suggest that before you buy new filters, you pull the existing filters first and check them. They really don't get very dirty and can usually be blown out with a can of air or vacuum cleaner. The filters are about 3" in diameter, around 1"high, round, near the center of the seat. They have to be wiggled off and they tend to stick after being on for so many years. BTW, the new filters are just plastic with holes (no filter material) the prevent anything under the seat from damaging the seat fan motor.

Have you physically looked under the car? Possibly an exhaust hanger has broken and the pieces are just barely touching. Any possibility that some change or other small stuff have fallen below the center console storage area into the area under the console?