enigma-2

60° conical bevel lug nuts. Responded in a different post. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/gor-61148bcx Note these may not be the proper lugs, just an example.

Sounds like they're requiring a 60 degree, Conical seat lug nut. Example: https://m.summitracing.com/parts/gor-61148bcx

Some brands of jump drives have LEDS that draw too much power.

Recall https://www.google.com/amp/www.autoblog.com/amp/2014/01/16/ford-recall-28k-edge-crossovers-over-fuel-line-leak/

Gary Dahl. Died a multimillionaire. Also developed "Sand Breeding Kiits" and "Red China Dirt." Great character, just ask my pet rock, Booberlicious.

Too much light would exceed FMVSS and all state DOT laws. Running with these on could get a nasty ticket.

Extended warranty.

If you do replace the actuator make certain is to check is the 60% seat recliner synchronization. If you fail to follow the instructions for this, the seat back and seat belt could fail in a crash. Your problem could also be a broken recliner cable.

Look on the bright side, they didn't charge you for the paint chips.

You certain that your hitch was factory, or dealer installed? In either case, I would not cosnider anything but oem harness to prevent any potential problems.

I use one simular to this, bouget off an infomercial. Works well, but still needs elbow grease.

Could there be corrosion on the connectors that is getting wiped when you remake the connection, and re-corroded in a short period?

In snow, my MKZ is great. On ice, ...... ahhh not so much. It's a heavy vehicle and stopping can be a real cardio thrill. But I'm glad I have AWD, even with the extra hardware that can fail.

Pulled this from the owners manual : "Trailer tow connector (vehicles equipped with a Class II trailer tow/prep package) The trailer tow connector is located under the rear bumper, on the drivers side of the vehicle." Based on this, it would seem that the connector is only part of the Class II option (furnished on the 3.5L engines) and not part of a factory Class I system (used on the 2.0 & 3.7L engines). The manual also states "Do not splice into the vehicle lamp wiring for trailer lamps. Your vehicle uses an advanced electronic module to control and monitor your vehicle lamps. Splicing into the wiring or attaching wiring to the vehicle bulb may DISABLE the rear vehicle lamps or cause them not to function properly. Your lamp outage feature may also be disabled or provide incorrect information." so the use of a factory harness would seem to be manditory.

Could try running a self test on the climate control module. Procedure was explained in the post: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15071-climate-control-problem/

That would seem to rule out the remote, is it OEM or a Chinese copy.

1st listing? (Not certain). http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2007&m=Ford&mo=Edge&initSearch=1&keyword=Moonroof#Search

Ok. Here's a link to someone who had the same problem. Found that the surfaces of the internal switch contacts were flaking off, falling on the circuitry and triggering the hatch. (How old is your remote)? http://www.fordescape.org/forum/showthread.php?t=674

Reported before. We're you in the cargo area after returning home? (May have sensed an item blocking the close and reopened, un-noticed by you). http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/7569-phantom-power-liftgate-opens-by-itself/

Definitely use OEM motor mounts. Used a NAPA mount on a ford one time, thought I was driving a WWII army truck afterwards. Noisy, rock hard, vibrations, nothing like the original. Popped it off and put on a Motorcraft, instantly turned quiet and smooth. Learned my lesson.

If you only need to blank the lights out on rare occasions .... put duct tape over them. Camouflage duct tape of course. lol

The company that makes kits to extend the rails for car seating states they don't make rails for the Edge. You would also run into problems with seat beats, air bag safety (sitting back too far would throw off the timing of when and how much force was exerted during deployment). About the only thing you can do is tilt the seat.

Been discussed before. Here's a previous thread on it. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20930-except-for-the-bottom-seat-this-is-a-near-perfect-car/?fromsearch=1

I don't believe that there is a reset button (of sorts). You might try an electrical reset. Pull the owner's manual out & look up fuse box chart to identify the one(s) that affect your radio/cd changer. Turn the key to ACC setting & turn on radio. Open the fuse box & pull all relevant fuses. Radio should quit. Then turn the key off & then reinsert the fuses. Turn the key back to ACC and turn on the radio. If this works, you should then be able to eject your cds. If this doesn't work, the only other option I know of, is to remove the radio and remove the top cover (one screw I believe). You can then wiggle the cds to get them back on position. I believe what hapens is, when the the battery dies, the changer starts shuffling through discs and causes one disc to pop out of it's slot; and jam inside the unit. Causes a "no disc" error when trying to play a cd and "load error" when trying to eject/insert a disc.

It's a 2016 right? Non-serviceable LED lamp. Replaced an an entire assembly I believe.