enigma-2

Could always pop on chrome covers. Look good and might be less expensive.

Does it sound like this? (Scotty shows in this Youtube video just how easy they are to change). https://youtu.be/Ot_CgAjyCFQu

Post a link.

Your turbo "chirps" when you accelerate?

2009 MKX, I'll assume that later years are nearly the same. Measurements include all projections and assume a box-shaped structure, slid imto place. Width: 45", height:29", depth: 5ft. (In mine, the back seats do not fold completely flat). These are rough and a slightly larger box will fit.

Did you by chance read this thread? http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12517-ford-edge-center-console-plastic-piece-cover/ There are also cover kits available: http://www.carid.com/2014-ford-edge-dash-kits/

Yea, stopping on ice in a MKX can be a real exciting moment. Couple of winter's ago, I thought I'd need a defibrillator to get me going afterwards. lol

On my 09, I press anywhere on the map display, and get 5 soft buttons. Then press on "POI Icons on/off" to turn on the 3 POI buttons I have selected. (Gas stations is one of the three I usually have selected).

Try one of these: http://m.yp.com/philadelphia-pa/non-ethanol-gas-stations

Sounds like it's part od the chassis/suspension system. At a stop, the car stops with the nose dipping. Starting up, the nose lifts and the suspension shifts. I would begin by looking at the torsion bars, front struts, etc. Try bouncing the front end (while parked) to see if you can recreate the squeek. Could be as simple as a bushing getting hard and needing a little lubrication.

So do i. Here's a website that list all of the Ethanol free gas stations by state. http://www.pure-gas.org/

I would agree with akirby, it probably doesn't exist on to 2014. If so, about the only thing I could think of, is to put on shocks with a shorter length, -or- possibly some sort of restraint, strap, chain or whatever, cinnected between the top strut connection and the bottom connection points.

Most likely it's from a clogged evaporation core drain. This allows mildew and mold to grow and produce a foul selling odor to be present in the air stream. Easiest way to fix is to buy some Lubegard and squirting it up into the hearer/AC drain. It will foam and fill all the nooks and crannies of the cores, kill all the nasty stuff and then turn to a liquid and drain out. http://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-96030-Evaporator-Heater-Cleaner/dp/B0007PHD0S Here's a YouTube video on how to do it: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi22mdXj3wM

2010 with 38k? Man, talk about babied. Nice find. I have the Platinum White Tri-coat as well. Love it, really stands out in the sunlight.

WWWPerfA_ZN0W already suggested this same bracket (or one just like it) in an earlier response. Interesting but very expensive, subject to road damage, still requires drilling holes and running a 12 volt circuit under the car. Thread starter wanted to mount the plate without drilling. If it were me, I would just drill the holes. More reliable and the plate would be needed by the next owner anyway.

Probably more likely a dry joint where the shaft comes through the cowling (hinge barely moves when in use). You might try using penetrating oil on the shaft.

Make certain your phone does not have your caller ID blocked and that this phone is the one registered with your account.

To set the 2014 liftgate opening height, press the button and allow the Liftgate to fully open. Then manually move the Liftgate to the opening height you want, then push and hold the Liftgate button until you hear a chime. The new opening height is set. Info came off a how-to video on the Ford site: https://owner.ford.com/content/ford-dot-com/en/how-tos/vehicle-features/liftgate-and-trunk/power-liftgate-release.html

Look in your owner's manual index (at the back) under "Setting the Liftgate Open Height".

I would imagine g you would need to use the heavy duty ties, the ones that are 5/16" wide and rather thick, for this.

I find that it's nothing more that a film on the windshield and oxidized blades. Windshields tend to accumulate and oil film from the road, and the film attracts dirt to stick to it. The blades have to streak across this film. Cleaning the windshield will help. Vinegar is good for this, cheap too. Blades, being rubber exposed to the road grime, salt and sunlight tend to develop an oxidation, making them lose some of theur flexibility. I wipe mine with a eyeglass cleaner wipe. Same wipe you use for your sunglasses. Clean your sunglasses then clean your blades. The alcohol will remove the oxidation film. This should stop any squeeking.

Pufffff, if mine starts whistling, I'm taken it in, no matter what the owner's manual says.

And then the cop looks at the the front bumper and doesn't seem any mounting holes ....

Noticed while I was at Lowes this last weekend, the had a spray chrome paint. Forget the brand, but back with the spray paints. Had several different varieties in fact. If you were able to mask off exposing just the scratch, could possibly spray and cover good enough to pass. As an alternative, you could spray some paint on a tiny paint brush and paint over the scratch. (Very carefully). Thinking of those paint brushes sold to paint model airplanes.

Broken part inside the cat converter or muffler?