enigma-2

Well that seems to be working. I don't think I've missed a single pothole in the last week!

Well that seems to be working. I don't think I've missed a single pothole in the last week!

Try putting the head unit into the diagnosis mode and see if it finds a camera. If it does, it should set the bit to turn it on. After it reboots, you should have a backup camera if everything is working properly.

I had this happen to me with my last car. Read that it was old grease in the latch that was gumming up the switch. What I ended up doing was to spray WD40 into the latch (just opened the door and sprayed it into the latch). Opened and closed the door vigorously a couple of times and the lights went out. Had to do this every couple of years or so. Give it a shot. doesn't cost anything and no harm done if it doesn't work.

My MKX came with 245/60R18's and the former owner put on 245/50R20. What real value does the 20 inch tires have over the 18's? Is it just for looks? Same height and width, slightly less revs/mile, not enough to justify the cost, imo.

Was in showroom other day while having MKX serviced. Looked at the new Edge and backup camera was mounted just above license plate (between license lights). If you don't have navigation, doubt you could use HU to display. Instead of a hidden display, how about changing your backup mirror to one with video. http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-LCD-Screen-Car-Rear-View-Backup-Mirror-Monitor-Wireless-Reverse-Camera-Kit/151359137746?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29310%26meid%3D06adf646f7384c8c93a02f3bb8c52c28%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D171576394380&rt=nc#ht_6176wt_1128 Or would something more like this work better? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Rear-View-System-Wireless-Backup-Camera-4-3-TFT-LCD-Monitor-/141586942168?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f73d48d8&vxp=mtr#ht_7433wt_1306

Thanks Wizzard. Looked up the original post, and found another one that detailed bending on the ground using a pipe. I may consider this, still thinking about going OEM. Seems that I remember reading somewhere that the 2010 and 2009 were the same. Wondering if you would mind slapping a tape measure across your 2013 and see how the posts compare with mine. My headrest posts are about 3/8" in diameter and spaced about 5-7/8" inch center-to-center. (Holding a tape measure in front and eyeballing)

Autoanything.Com carries them.

When I bought my mkx, I got the PremiumCare (covers over 1000 items) and my car had 84k on it. Did you check the Ford website? http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/ESPWizardStep1

Is it possible that the memory seat buttons just are not programmed? Try setting the drivers seat to an awkward position, say all the way down. Then program the memory seat button number one. Press the SET control on the driver’s door panel. Within 5 five seconds, press the lock or unlock control on the Integrated keyhead Transmitter and then press the 1 or 2 control on the driver’s door panel which you would like to associate with the seat and Driver 1 or Driver 2 positions. Then move the seat to a different position, say mid heght and press the memory seat button to see if it takes you back to full down.

Buttons connect to pins 16 (botton 1) & 17 (button 2) of the driver seat module. The module is powered from fuse F12 of the fuse box and fuse F60 in the battery junction box. Power seats come off F12 so I doubt that's the problem. Drivers seat module is located under the drivers seat.

Look at the service manual, it's impossible to ell. The Guides are different (not just different size) between the two and both insert into a steel channel, more like a short section of steel pipe, which appears to be welded to the top of the seat frame. My guess is the steel portion is larger on the F150 and the F150 guides will not fit into the Edge channels. Only way to be certain is to buy a F150 guide and test it.

You just did! Lol

Was it simular to the setup Ford uses to connect to the car? Did your locksmith refer to anything special in his advertising?

Anyone know if a 2014 MKX tilting headrest will fit a 09 MKX? (Wife hates the angle of the stock headrest).

TireRack http://www.tirerack.com/tires/SelectTireSize.jsp?autoMake=Ford&autoModel=Edge+SEL&autoYear=2007&autoModClar=AWD&brand=Yokohama didn't recommend that particular tire for your car (either FWD or AWD). They sell it, but wasn't recommended for the 07 Edge SEL AWD or FWD. For Yokohama they spec'd the Geolandar H/T G056 @$131 ea, the Parada Spec-X @ $172 ea and the AVID ENVigor (H- or V-Speed Rated) @ $147 ea. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=AVID+ENVigor+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=46HR8ENV&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2007&autoModel=Edge%20SEL&autoModClar=FWD The surveys don't rate this tire very high, scoring low in "would you buy again, light snow, deep snow and ice. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=AVID+ENVigor+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=46HR8ENV&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2007&autoModel=Edge%20SEL&autoModClar=FWD Click on "surveys" and "reviews" for actual user reporting. A better tire and less money (at least at TireRack) would be the Bridgestone Dueler H/L 422 Ecopia @ $128 ea. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Dueler+H%2FL+422+Ecopia&partnum=46TR8HL422&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2007&autoModel=Edge%20SEL&autoModClar=FWD This are the tires I'm running on my 09 MKX AWD and find them to be very smooth & quiet, and have good traction on wet roads and in snow. Not so much on ice. For the price, they are a better buy IMO.

Air fow is through the core and then as directed by blend door actuator(s). Actuators are controlled by HVAC module. Service manual leans towards failing actuator (sticking or bent linkage). If it was the heater core, seems as if you would get little or no airflow through any of the outlets.

If you can get it run, run a diagnostic and post what codes it's showing.

It does sound ridiculous, but it really could be around $300 if they are quoting the new laser-cut keys! My local dealer can't cut them and has to call in a local locksmith (only one guy in the area that has this new laser key cutter. Dealer told me they could not justify the cost of the machine vs the relative few times they would be able to use it. (Forget what he said they were quoted, but it was in the thousands). He showed me one of the new keys and they are completely different; actually need to be cut precisely with a laser. Think he said it was starting on the 2015 model (forget which model it's starting with), but eventually all models in lineup will use new type keys. Think he said they charged they guy over 300 for one key.

It's just five numbers, no letters. Like akirby said, enter a little slower. It the code doesn't take, wait a few seconds before attempting it a second time. After you master this, consider entering your own personal code. Enter the factory code and after you get a confirmation, press the the 1-2 button on the keypad. Then enter your personal entry code. Don't use your home address, telephone number or anything common to yourself. One of the neighbor kids can guess this and, once in the car gain access to the factory code in the fuse panel. (It happened to someone else here in this forum). You must enter each digit within 5 seconds of each other or it will reset. To enter a personal code and activate the memory recall feature (seats, mirrors adjust) after you enter your new personal code, press the 1-2 button for driver number one or 3-4 button for driver number two. If you programmed the entry code properly, the doors will lock and unlock to confirm.

If that model is still on the dealers lot, you could always talk to your salesman and see what the cost differential is in trading your current on for the other. There's always the possibility the dealership will give you a deal as your an existing customer. I would expect the $2000 differential, plus probably a couple or three grand more, for paperwork, closing the existing loan and originating new loan, deprecation costs per blue book, etc. The keyless entry is not worth the money in my opinion. It can (and does) fail, and offers no functionality in driving the car. No big deal to just push a button on the remote, and in the southwest, pushing the remote opens the windows and pops the vista roof (if equipped). This is not something that the keyless entry does by default, so you still have have a remote. I've had this feature on many rental cars and never cared whether I had it or not. Get in a push a button to start is not worth the extra cost over putting a key in the ignition. Remote start is worth it if you in the frozen northern states (locally -10° this week) where it's nice to walk out to your car that already been warmed up. In the southwest it's air conditioning, but I was never able to cool the car adequately in the 10 minute envelope; but it helped.

In the 2013, the easy way to disarm the alarm, is to buckle the seatbelt BEFORE starting the engine. Other than that, the procedure above is correct. I would suggest that you exit the vehicle prior to tunning the ignition switch to the on position. Then follow the procedure after the warning indicator goes off. BTW, the sensor is tied to weight on the seat, not a seatbelt interconnect. (Probably done this way to prevent the belt cheater to work. Believe they switched to this method after they tied the airbags to the system). If you need it, you can download a copy of your owners manual here: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/13edgom4e.pdf

Not to mention all of those cute little hitch cover plates you can use to cover the receiver opening .......... :-)

Which fuse position did you ended up using?

Yea sadly, my 09 has the factory 1-1/4" receiver. (All they offered back them). I don't currently own a utility trailer (or boat any longer) so it's not that big a deal. Still, 2" would have been nicer. Car only has a 3500 lb towing limit anyway, so 1-1/4" is good as 2" anyway.