enigma-2

When you replaced the pads, did you notice the pins sticking? Did you clean out the old grease before greasing and replacing the pins? Stuck pins can cause one side to stick and not contact the rotors same as the caliper side. Only way to tell if the rotors are too thin is the check the specks and mike the roters thickness. Did you notice if the rotors had a lot of deep groves? You can have them turned if there's enough thickness left.

If you're considering manual, why not just go with air shocks. Lot cheaper and old technology. Want a stiffer ride, just pump them up (and don't forget a mouth guard).

Try unplugging the battery again, leave disconnected for several minutes (or take the disconnected positive lead and hold it to chassis ground) to drain the capacitors in the various systems and reset the modules. Sounds like the APIM needs resetting.

The capacitor basically filters the Pulsating DC produced by the alternator. Smooths out the ripple to kill a whine on the AM band. Not related to filter out the tic, tic of the Ignition system. On old AM radio sets, the power rectifier tube produced half-wave Pulsating DC and used 2 large filter capacitors. They were electrolytic capacitors which used a wet paste as the dielectric and when the paste dried out, they would open, producing a loud 60 cycle hum in the radio. On cars, the sound is a high-pitched whine which varies with alternator rpm. Modern cars use a full wave bridge and the ripple is much smaller. But still present.) The ticking should basically comes from the ignition system. Each coil not only sends high voltage to the plug, but also acts like a transmitter. On older cars, we used to use plug wires made with graphite cores, which acted as resistors preventing the high voltage from radiating out. Nowadays the cars don't use spark plug wires and the coil sits directly on the plug and uses a shield to block the ignition radiation. (Why I suspected a skirt that's leaking spark).

I seem to remember reading a few years ago where this was traced to a coil where a coil skirt was leaking spark, causing the tick, tick sound in the AM band. (Shouldn't hear it on the FM & satellite bands as the noise is clipped below the quieting threshold).

I doubt that you would like light from LED after running with HID. OEM LEDs use assemblies designed specifically for their physical characteristics. As are HIDs. You can't run LEDs in a reflector designed for HIDs and get a satisfactory result. (LED headlights don't use replaceable bulbs). HID will dim over time, possibly that's the problem. Don't know how many hours your HIDs have been used over the last 8 years. Maybe you need to replace them? This site discusses HID dimming and what to look for. https://www.xenonsonline.com/blogs/news/hid-headlights-in-depth

Looks to me as if the connector on the opposite end from the aftermarket clamp could possibly connect directly to the connection with the aftermarket clamp is. As if it originally connected there and someone added a length of hose between for some reason.

EricTheCarGuy shows how to repair a heat shield fast and cheap. I'd use stainless steel for the corrosion resistance.

Yea, no sh*t. Motorcraft shocks for the rear of a 2019 Ford Edge run under $45/ea. https://a.co/d/h49g4qK What's the "top mount" of the shocks?

Whether you're able to charge your cell in a 40 minute drive or not is really dependent on its level of discharge and age. If the cell doesn't full charge while on USB doesn't necessarily mean the ports are bad. Cheap cable, dirty connections, heavily discharged battery or old phone are all factors that can contribute to a slow charge. I use a Verizon charger plugged into a front power point. About the best I can expect. USB is slower and the pad (used one in my MKX) is downright annoying (abet convenient).

Save yourself some time. Spray the hinges with silicone spray.

Just add to the conversation, few years ago my blower began to make wierd noises. I pulled the blower and lubed the bearings with a little WD40 and Super Lube. Been quiet for a few years now.

Couple of thoughts to add to your list. 1. Check to see if they forgot to reconnect the electrical connection to the compressor. 2. With the ac set to max, is compressor running?

Think we've all asked those questions. Try contacting the guys in Warsaw and see if they can supply. If you're not around the capitol, try Googling for your area. It's not listed in parts catalog, if anyone knows, it's them. Good luck

This thread may offer you some advice about how to find the pins on the module used to control the lights and how to wire. I seem to remember that someone here was making housing to fit that area (believe I read were the one's on Ebay didn't fit NA Edges.)

I've seen harnesses like that as well, but usually only on cars that has the accessory as a dealer option. Just can't see Ford throwing in extra, unused wire on thousands of vehicles that were never designed to use these lights. If this was offered as an option by the dealer, it would be cheaper to offer a kit, lights, wire, etc. than run wiring to an empty spot and just hang there. They watch stuff like this closely. Say 6' of 16 ga copper wire × 150,000 cars. That will never be used. Easiest way to tell is to check the harness part numbers for the Edge that gets the lights and the one that doesn’t. They will be different if the wiring is different. Or just dig around in the area with a flashlight and look for open connectors.

Strut tower bearing. With a frozen bearing, the strut spring starts to twist, can't because the of bearing and slips on the bearing plate, causing a clunking sound.

Good cable? You see this video?

Normally when an a/c compressor needs repair, its repaired by replacing with a new or rebuilt unit. I'd try asking Zabielski Dariusz Zabielski, Orzechowa 25, 02-244. Warszawa. (48) 22 868 38 42 They seem to have good reviews for selling rebuilt units. Perhaps they can secure you the correct bearing.

I can answer the first one. No. They only pre-wire if it's a dealer installed option. And then the wiring harness would be part of the add-on accessory, never left hanging on the car. These lights are not offered as a dealer add-on, so they are not going to waste $$$ installing wiring that will (almost) never get used.

This is how one fixed the problem; claims it took him two minutes.

Safelite will do any camera alignment and any programing as they are required to do so. Part of a modern windshield replacment. They'll also replace your wipers if needed.

Great find, but the reviews would make me think twice. Still need 2007 electrical wiring schematics.

You'll need to obtain 2007 Edge wiring diagrams to see the differences between the cars with auto lights and manual. There are many variations. For example, in 2009 (earliest I have) different sensors and wiring are used based on the type of air conditioning used. As does your car have a sensor? Possibly. If you have datc (automatic heating/cooling) you may possibly have a sunlight sensor. The sensor is located at the top, center of the instrument panel. Near the windshield. I would imagine the parts alone would be prohibitive. Different switch, headlight modules (pass/dvr), sensors, possibly a different sjb, etc. Start by obtaining the 2007 wiring diagrams compare the differences.

I never heard this. Brilliant! Easy test. And for those who hate the ANC, just driving around with a door ajar will kill it. ? Wonder if a faulty door latch (where the interior lights stay on) would also kill the ANC?