enigma-2

Been there, you have my sympathies. Hope the update works. PS update the phone as well.

Known problem, see if this site helps https://www.tuneskit.com/fix-ios/iphone-keeps-disconnecting-from-bluetooth.html

I believe that the actuator on drivers side is down near the gas pedal. But before you consider changing it, try resetting it. I think this will work on your 2015, • Simutaneously hold down both the climate control power button and defrost button at the same time. Hold it for 5 seconds. • Release the climate control power button and defrost button. • Press the climate control power button alone, hold for a few seconds. This should fix the actuator, but if not, try one other thing. Reach up and unplug the actuator. Leave it unplugged for a few seconds then plug it back in. (If I remember correctly, the actuator has a blue connector).

You can pry up the sill. Watch to see if any clips come out when the sill tabs come out of the slots. The bulb is a single LED (or could be multiple LEDs in your 2017. In my 2009 its one bulb wired into harness that plugs into the illuminated sill plate). It's possible the LED had failed, or it could be a wiring connection (corrosion) or associated circuitry. Once the sill plate is removed, using a multimeter or 12 volt test light, check to see if the required 12 volts are being supplied to the sills connection. If there's no power you'll need to troubleshoot the wiring to see where the power stops. (A schematic would be helpful, just ask here). And check all fuses related to interior lighting. Your looking for a specific circuit that's always powered (that is, when the car is turned off). If there is power, the LED is probably defective and you need to replace it. Probably will need to be soldered into the circuit. if your not prepared to replace the LED yourself, take the assembly to a local electronics repair shop. (Try Walmart or a cellphone shop if you can't find a radio repair shop). LEDs are cheap, probably a couple of dollars and labor shouldn't be more than 1/2 hour.

LOL, I hear ya. ?

Get er done ... yet? How long they take?

If its leaking, first check for plugged drain tubes. Second, consider applying a verrrry thin bead of clear, silicone caulk around the perimeter. Think the part number for the seal is 7T4Z-7850036-A and costs $200 through Levittown Ford. I can't imagine any scenario where this seal can't be replaced without dropping the headliner and pulling both window glasses.

They ARE working ok for me as well.

UCheck for codes P0442 & P0455. Below is an easy way to test for a stuck purge valve. If you only experiencing lower mpg, and the codes don't verify a purge valve, suspect a dirty mass airflow sensor. Easy fix is to just pull off the intake hose and spray with special cleaner.

Simple methods is to squirt in the 7W140 until is starts to overflow and run out. A good choice is Valvoline 75W140. Great oil and comes in a squeeze pouch, makes it easy to refill the PTU in tight places. (This is for a case of four quarts, but only one is needed for a drain/fill). https://a.co/d/e9M7xgw

Either the rear differential or rear wheel bearing. Both create a roaring noise on acceleration, but the differential will also create a roaring under additional load. The differential could be failing if its leaking, running low on lubrication, or you drove through deep water at some point, allowing water to enter the axle, causing lubrication failure. Another possibility is the car was subjected to a towing overload at some point. One method to isolate between the two, would be to lift the rear end and shake to rear wheels. Also rotate the tires while listening to the bearings. An old mechanics trick is to use a long, wood handle (plastic works as well), the slot end on the area of the bearing with your ear on the handle end. Listen for grinding. In either case, something is wearing out in the rear. Have you ever changed the rear differential fluid? Best to do this every 60,000 miles or any time the car has been driven through deep water (level over the rear axle). It's in the cars maintenance manual (at least in mine for my MKX).

It's entirely possible that a fastener has loosened allowing slack to occur in the mechanism. If so, the sooner you correct, the better the chance you avoid real damage (where very expensive parts need to be replaced). It would involve removing the seat (4 bolts, disconnect wiring connector) and examine the drive mechanism. I would suspect a worn gear where the motor drives the seat.

Couldn't agree more. I've never had good luck with aftermarket suspension parts. They work but there's always a growing, or grinding or roar. Never been happy with anything except OEM.

Up to you. Here's what one laboratory thinks about replacing everything three years: GroupAuto Member Directory New research shows that xenon HIDs should be replaced every 3 years FacebookTwitterPrintEmail 25 Feb 2019 Category: Articles, Press Releases, Product News New research shows that xenon HIDs should be replaced every 3 years says RING Garages can help improve driver safety and boost profits this MOT season by advising drivers to replace their xenon HID headlamps if they are over three years old, research from Ring – the vehicle lighting specialists – suggests. Ring’s findings show that while xenon HID headlamps may still illuminate and appear white, after three years the light output will have dropped significantly – potentially below legal limits. In tests done in its state-of-the-art, ISO:9001-accredited beam laboratories, Ring found that the overall lumens light output from four-year-old HID bulbs had dropped by around 17.5% compared to equivalent new xenon HID bulbs – taking them below the legal limits for light output for HID bulbs as set out in ECE Reg 99. The lux output at the brightest point of the beam had dropped by around 59.5% when comparing the old bulb with the equivalent new xenon HID.* Note that this is a UK laboratory and shows the after 4 years HID bulbs fell below their ECE Reg 99 standard. (xenon bulbs were still above the 2750 minimum lumens standard however). You would probably notice an improvement if you installed quality, new bulbs. But you have to balance this against the cost. If money is no object however .... Don't forget to change your cabin air filter & fluids (PTU, brake, tranny, pwr steering & blinker fluids). ?

After you get it out, put a couple drops of lubricant in the motor bearing area. These motor bearings have a habit of drying out.

Sometimes price is not the.main consideration. I've read horror stories about Chinese wheels failing after a few years use. Sometimes at highway speeds. Whichever rim you decide on, I'd recommend you Google the manufacturer to see if there are any problems reported (remember they can change their name at the drop of a hat so longevity in business becomes important).

This particular problem can sometimes be caused by a blocked path between the sensors, dirty safety eyes, loose wires at the sensors or at the motor head, one or two bad sensors, bad motor control board, or one of the sensors has been bumped and is out of alignment. (In my case I had the same problem and finally traced it to one of the sensors had been bumped and no longer pointed directly at the other sensor. Door opens but refused to close as the sensors are there to monitor if anyone is in the doors path). Besides checking the sensor placement, try resetting the unit by unplugging the garage door opener for a few minutes and re-plugging the unit back into the outlet. In addition, try cleaning the Sensors, look for any damaged wiring, check for corroded connection at the sensors. One other thing that can cause problems is the use of certain LED light bulbs in the opener. If your using LEDs, try removing them and see if they are the problem. (If so, replace them with LEDs specifically marked for use with garage door openers).

https://www.oemfordpart.com/oem-parts/ford-handle-outside-ds7z5422405aaptm Spray it with the correct paint. This may not be your exact color as there is no R3 that I can find, but other Reds are available on this page. https://a.co/d/iBZP91X

NHTSA Recall ID Number : 22T020 Synopsis : Yokohama Off-Highway Tires America, Inc (YOHTA) is recalling certain Alliance High Speed Rib Implement Tire 12.5L-15 FI, 11L-15FI, Primex Highway R-550 Steer and Trailer 11-22.5, Alliance 317 Implement 10.5-20 IMP, and Alliance Stubble Proof 319 SPH 11L-15FI tires. The date code portion of the Tire Identification Number (TIN) states the incorrect manufacture date on the sidewall of the tire. As such, these tires fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 119, "New Pneumatic Tires, Other than Passenger Cars." The incorrect date code hinders drivers from accurately identifying the age of the tire and makes it difficult to determine if the tire is affected by a safety recall, which can increase the risk of a crash. YOHTA will replace the affected tires, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed December 09, 2022. Owners may contact YOHTA's customer service at 1-800-343-3276.

NHTSA Recall ID Number :22T021Synopsis : Bridgestone Americas Tire Operation (BATO) is recalling certain Firestone Destination LE2 tires, size P265/65R17 110S (DOT date codes 2522 through 2622), Bridgestone Alenza Sport A/S tires, size 235/55R20 102V (DOT date codes 2422 through 2722) and Bridgestone Turanza EL440 tires, size 235/50R18 97V (DOT date codes 2521 through 2621). The tires may have sustained cuts and tears during the sorting process, which can result in tire damage. Damaged tires can lead to a sudden loss of air pressure and loss of vehicle control, increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers will inspect and replace the tires, as necessary, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed between December 19, 2022 and January 2, 2023. Owners may contact BATO's customer service at 1-800-847-3272.

but wider tires will ....

And how Ford fixed the problem starting in the late 2020+ engines.

2009 Ford Edge uses a 9005 bulb. A Sylvania 9005 Basic Halogen Headlight Bulb is rated at 1,700 lumens. State laws usually limit the output to between 2,000 lumens to 4,000 lumens. Friend (County) told me they don't get concerned unless the vehicle is throwing out too much glare. Then its usually written as a warning, subject to having it inspected at a later date. A smart ass will get a citation and court date.

On HID cars, the smaller filament is used for the DRL. With halogen lights, the smaller filament is still used for the DRL and the larger filament is then used as the high beam. Apparently the larger filament is not used with HID headlights as its not needed. To remove the HID headlight bulb, the process is described on page 287 in the owners manual (or near that page if you have a different edition). You may have to turn the locking ring with spirited anticipation to encourage its willing co-operation. Remember to never touch the bulb glass with your bare fingies and, if you do, wipe the glass with alcohol prior to reinstalling. (This is true of HID and Halogen bulbs. The oil from your fingers will create a hot spot on the bulb and early burn out from overheating). I always wipe my bulbs with an eyeglass alcohol wipe during installation, just to be certain that no grungy factory worker had his/her greasy paws on the bulb prior to packaging.