enigma-2

And how Ford fixed the problem starting in the late 2020+ engines.

2009 Ford Edge uses a 9005 bulb. A Sylvania 9005 Basic Halogen Headlight Bulb is rated at 1,700 lumens. State laws usually limit the output to between 2,000 lumens to 4,000 lumens. Friend (County) told me they don't get concerned unless the vehicle is throwing out too much glare. Then its usually written as a warning, subject to having it inspected at a later date. A smart ass will get a citation and court date.

On HID cars, the smaller filament is used for the DRL. With halogen lights, the smaller filament is still used for the DRL and the larger filament is then used as the high beam. Apparently the larger filament is not used with HID headlights as its not needed. To remove the HID headlight bulb, the process is described on page 287 in the owners manual (or near that page if you have a different edition). You may have to turn the locking ring with spirited anticipation to encourage its willing co-operation. Remember to never touch the bulb glass with your bare fingies and, if you do, wipe the glass with alcohol prior to reinstalling. (This is true of HID and Halogen bulbs. The oil from your fingers will create a hot spot on the bulb and early burn out from overheating). I always wipe my bulbs with an eyeglass alcohol wipe during installation, just to be certain that no grungy factory worker had his/her greasy paws on the bulb prior to packaging.

As those are HALOGEN, I'd say yes. Less than $250 for BOTH headlamp assemblies? Great price.

According to the owners manual it's the high beam (doesn't mention the use of LED lighting for the 2017). It looks to be a H11 bulb, according to Sylvania specs,, one filament is for the high beam, the other is DRL. Try turning on your brights to see if it comes on.

I was reading this thread again and there was something that bothered me about this. When you train the wheels to the TPMS system, don't they register to a specific wheel position? Left front, right rear, etc. And if you registered a spare, wouldn't that get erased when you removed it to mount the primary tire? Wouldnt you need to re-register the spares transmitter to that specific position again, when you switched to the spare? I know when my dealer registered my car with a new wheel and sensor, he had to walk around to each wheel, in a specific order to get the registration right. I believe they have to reprogram the wheels after a tire rotation to tell the BCM where each of the wheels moved to. Thats why you can only have four wheel registered at any time. If you put a spare on, which has a correct pressure transmitter, you would have to re-register the wheels again. Otherwise you'd get a warning light (because the wheel with the transmitter that's registered to that position is no longer sending information).

I use alcohol wipes (eyeglass cleaner wipes) and then follow with a wipe of 303 protectant. (Provides UV protection slows oxidation and keeps the rubber from becoming hard). Don't know of any screw that adjusts pressure, believe that a spring applies all of the downward pressure). Have your cleaned your windshield? A windscreen with oil smeared on it will cause streaking. If you ever want to super clean your windshield, this works incredibly (rain beads better than RainX and lasts a lot longer). 1. Wash the glass with water 2. Clean the glass with glass cleaner. (I use Windex). 3. Go over the glass with a quality degreaser to dissolve any grease or oil sticking to the glass. This is what I use, but you can use 409, etc.: SuperClean Multi-Surface All Purpose Cleaner Degreaser Spray https://a.co/d/633TSZs 4. And this is what makes the real difference. Clean the windshield with a piece of clay bar. If you've never used it, you break off a piece of clay, and using a spritz bottle with water, wet the glass and just rub it over the glass. If the glass is completely clean, the clay will simply slide over the glass. But if it encounters any oil or grease sticking to the glass, it will drag. You just over over this area until the clay slides freely. Now the glass is super clean and ready for the last step. This is what I use (but any clay bar should work well): Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar https://a.co/d/8ZfclZw 5. Carbona wax. Apply a light coat of wax over the glass and allow it to fully dry. This could take a 1/2 hour or more. When your certain its dry, wipe it off with a microfiber towel, turning often. When its clean, use a new, clean mf towel and polish the glass. You won't believe how clean and protected the windshield is. You won't even need to use your wipers when driving. (I remember going through a car wash and able to see in front of me the entire time. The soap and high pressure spray beaded and ran off faster than it was being applied. If that's even possible). This is the wax I use: Meguiar's G7014J Gold Class Carnauba Plus Premium Paste Wax. https://a.co/d/g700YvZ

According to the owners manual, the low beam bulb is a H11 and the high beam uses a 9005 bulb. A H11 bulb is rated at 55 watts, or 55 watts ÷ 12 volts = 4.6 Amps. Both bulbs are fused at 15 Amps. (Fuse #23). 9005 is rated at 65 watts. 65 watts ÷ 12 volts = 5.4 Amps. Each bulb is fused at 10 Amps. (Fuse #7 & #8). Using the Drive Bright bulbs I posted above, they are rated at 45 watts. (As an example). So yes, the wiring would handle the LED bulbs. (However high intensity bulbs would almost certainly require a relay and additional direct wiring).

Hi Anil, what was the outcome of the accident?

As @DILLARD000 said, plus check SPARK PLUGS, need to be changed at 90k miles. If there's any question, change all fluids, brake, pwr steering, PTU, COOLANT and TRANSMISSION. (Caps are .out important). Less important is the cabin air filter (behind glove box) and under seat filters (if you have heated/cooled seats. The filters in the 08 are actually filters. In late 09 and later these were changed to open grills). Motorcraft cabin air filter Under seat filter

You may find this site useful. https://www.instructables.com/How-To-Convert-Your-Headlight-Bulbs-to-LED/ I seen these new LED types online and they seem to be a real breakthrough. And Drive Bright has an excellent reputation. https://drivebright.com/shop/led-headlight-replacement-kit-new/

Look like these? https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/AC/96723-04250684.html

Anyone know where the camera is located? (Any year).

Thought the OEM were branded as Motorcraft? Were yours branded Bosch?

There are several aftermarket on Ebay under $50 (free shipping, but I don't know if that includes Canada. Most will ship to Canada and someone from Quebec province left +feedback). There's two selling Motorcraft, but price much higher.

You look for any screws they may have added in the '22 ?

Any other dealers in your area? (Sounds like your dealer is short handed on technicians).

Weird little problem. I put new Trico Platinum wiper blades on the car. 20" passenger and 26" driver. Really nice blades. Now this was back in May. Anyway, noticed last week during the blizzard that the drivers blade made a thunk when it reached the up end of travel and left a bunch of streaks when returning to the down position. Checked it out by switching the blades and the passenger blade now did the same thing. Turns out that (somehow) the drivers wiper arm has a larger J-HOOK than the passenger. (Passenger arm fits both blades perfectly). The passenger hook measures 3/4"× 1/2" and the drivers hook measures 1-5/16"× 3/4". (I read that the smaller is called a J-3 & the larger is called a J-4. Stands for millimeters, smaller is 3 mm, larger hook is 4 mm). Never noticed any difference in all the years I've owned the car. Both arms look like the aged the same. I'm sure I would have noticed it before in all the years I've owned the car. I can't figure out how it could have gotten changed? (Or when). Called Trico technical services and they said that, basically I was nuts. Can't possibly happen. Both are the same. I hooked the drivers up wrong. She said the larger hook was ONLY used on trucks and large motor homes, so it could not have been used on my car. I reminded the lady that wiper arms are designed vehicle specific, that it fits perfectly, and she promptly hung up. Great customer service. All I wanted was a plastic adapter to insert into the blade to adapt to the larger hook. Anyway anyone else ever run across this? The arm on the drivers side with the larger J4 hook has the exact same profile as the size and shape of the J3 arm. (The didn't use two different size arms in the gen-1 cars did they)? Got a new arm for the drivers side coming from Ebay so should fix it.

Opps, right, sorry, factory hitch, dealer put on the 7-pin and trailer brake before delivery.

When I get myself into some adventure in mechanics where I have no idea where I'm going, I've found that its a good idea to stop and take pictures at every step of disassembly. After all, pix are free with modern cell phones, and you can always erase when done. (But when trying to remember which way the dookie hooked into the Frédéric, pictures are gold. Take lots of pictures).

Speaking only about the actual headlight assembly, I'd say yes. I looked on Ebay at a headlight assembly that fits 2015-2018 Ford Edge Sport. Under fitment it states that it fits the SE, SEL, SPORT & TITANIUM trim packages. Here's the comparison between the two. (Mind you, one's halogen and one's high intensity). SPORT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255741588436?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=GWkHt6bWTa2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY SEL: https://www.ebay.com/itm/175271511639?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=l9EvB50oTA6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY However, if you were talking about the trim pieces that surround the headlight assemblies, i didn't look this up.

Left front, speed sensor or reluctor ring. The sensor reading from one wheel (the left front wheel in this case), is differing from that of the other three wheels beyond a predefined limit while the vehicle is travelling in a straight line. Sets these codes. I'd lean towards a wiring problem as it happens when in a left turn (suspension geometry may be pulling on the sensor wiring, causing it to open or short).

There an easy way to disable start/stop. LET THE CAR DO IT AUTOMATICALLY. Basically, turn on the lights with the car off and run the battety down. After a couple of start cycles with a weak battety, the BCM will detect a weak battery and disable the auto start/stop. It will stay disabled until you run the battety reset procedure. (Or could substitute a weak battery for 2-3 start cycles, let the BCM recognize a weak battety then put the good one back in. Here's a good video on the procedure by a top Ford tech. (Probably the best on YouTube. Subscribe. Great videos).

Kind of sounds like a ABS sensor is dropping out at lower speeds. As you have already changed the sensors on all four wheels, did you check the tone ring on your front wheels? (Front because it only happens when turning). Check for cracks, broke teeth and some other physical damage. Also look to see how much brake dust has accumulated on the ring. Possibly the ring distorts when a left turn has initiated? One other possibility is corrosion on the speed sensor connector(s). Making a weak signal.

This is how the factory installed my 7-pin on my 2009 MKX.