enigma-2

Speaking from 130k+ miles. New PTU, replaced brake booster, 1-tie rod end, windshield washer spray nozzles, 1-vacuum hose, power seat back lumbar assemblies (both drivers and passengers), new TPMS units (one failed, replaced all four), new valve core on spare tire (rotted ftom age), replaced Chrome wheel (hit a curb), new battery 3x, drivers door handle, new accordion sealing strip on drivers side (seals BAMR sliding glass, old seal softened in hot sun, twisted when closed and became fixted in twisted position). New shocks on rear. Recalls; gas tank (was rusted on top), air bags. All prior to 130k, nothing since (so far). All maintenance done at Lincoln (Ford) garage, Motorcraft parts (100%). Routine maintenance done per Lincoln Maintenance Manual (plugs, filters (oil, air, cabin & seat), all fluids changed, plugs at 90k, wiper blades, headlight bulbs. Coolant change over from gold to current. Water pump still good, struts good, transmission & engine good. All systems nominal. No leaks engine or transmission or rear differential. One minor rust spot on roof black strip next to BAMR (hit by flying rock).

Looking at the service manual, 1.If the pedal goes down quickly: brake fluid leaks, master cylinder, hydraulic control unit. 2. Excessive brake travel: leaks, master cylinder, brake calipers, stuck guide pins, flexible hoses 3. Excessive brake effort: weak engine vacuum to booster, booster hose, booster itself, booster check valve & worn pads. I know when I had this problem, turned out to be several problems. The pins were rusted on the rear, rear calipers were not squeezing to pads propetly and the brake fluid was old. Shop kept telling me the back pads were still good, plenty of pad thickness. Finally took it in ordering new pads & rotors on rear, and a complete brake fluid change. Great brakes now. This was after they replaced the booster. I'd be curious about checking your booster for excessive travel.

This video covers 15 through 18 but should point you in the right direction.

Did you check the brake booster?

One other option, can't vouch for the quality, but this seller offers Sync 3, 2022 map updates for under $50. (Comes on USB drive). https://www.ebay.com/itm/314289908852?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wzK4gUmNQKW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

A "hole"???? Oh how 2010! Practically ancient in car years. In all seriousness, how often do you use a key to lock/unlock your car door? I can't remember how many years it's been since I have.

Wasn't the single horn wired directly and the dual setup wired through a relay with heavier gauge wire?

Remember to use the towing maintenance schedule when towing: 3k for the PTU, 30k for trany fluid, check rear end fluid level and condition (every 3k).

Ouch. Considering that Motorcraft shocks sell for less than $70/ea and labor is 1 hour, this place is really padding the bill. If it were me, I'd ask for an itemized estimate just to see how they are justifying such a high price. They must be replacing more then just shocks for such a ridiculous quote.

On a 2019 Edge, theres a couple of methods you can use to find your code if you only have one key and no owners manual key card. You can give your dealer your vin and he can decode it to find Ford's manufacturing number. They ca also sell and cut you another key. The other method is to locate the cars Remote Anti-Theft (RAP) module,. The 5-digit code is printed on a label attached to the face of this module. The module itself is located on the drivers side, rear, behind the cargo space side panel. (Pops off with a screwdriver and clips. I haven't messed with a 2019 but should be able to find a YouTube on how to do it. Should be a 5-minute job). As for the 2nd key, I'd at least start by pricing with your local dealer. Then a locksmith. (Not all locksmiths have the proper key cuttinh machine. Check onlune for one that advertises Ford locks. If he's cheaper, call the parts department back and tell him the locksmiths' price, ask if they'll match. (Ebstablishes this car with a dealer and probably more dependable. They can be counted on should there be a problem with the key).

My drivers outdoor handle came off after coming out of WalMart, late one night. Stood there in the parking lot with the handle in my hand. I went in through the drivers rear door and unlocked the door. It's a streach but doable. Handle super easy to change, one screw just inside door. (In the side of the door, adjacent the door handle). Only part to be careful with, is screw can be dropped inside door if not careful. Used magnetic screwdriver & went very slow. Took two minutes. Latch will take much longer. Think I'd consider changing the door latch switch while the door is open. Bad history on these Gen One Fords. Always use Ford parts, don't trust aftermarket. (With my luck with aftermarket parts, the new one would jusg snap off in my hand again).

That is good news. Hope you sell a ton of these next year. Stay cautious however, as you stated, it's only delayed. Never trust just how clever the IRS can become. 1. How much did you make in 2022? 2. How much did it cost you to make the amount listed in question #1? 3. Send the remainder.

The feature was only available on the 2009 MKX but not on the Edge. On the 2009 it wasn't global, it opened both front windows (not the back) and popped up the sunroof. You could try it by unlocking the door using to cars' 5-digit entry code then press the 3 & 4 keys within 5 seconds. This unlocks all doors and can enter through a door that works. Of course if you have the FOB you can just unlock all doors (press unlock twice) enter through passenger front or drivers rear, reach over and open the drivers door.

Recall ID Number : 22T024 Defect: Tread separation can result in tire failure and a loss of vehicle control, increasing the risk of a crash. Discussion: Yokohama Tire Corporation (Yokohama Tire) is recalling certain TY517 MC2 tires, size 295/75R22.5 16H, and BluEarth 109L tires, size 295/75R22.5 14G, with DOT date code 2222. The tires may have been produced with an incorrectly manufactured rubber compound, which can cause the rubber adhesion to fail and result in tread separation. As such, these tires fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 119, "New Pneumatic Tires- Other than Passenger Cars." Tread separation can result in tire failure and a loss of vehicle control, increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers will inspect and replace the affected tires, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed January 30, 2023. Owners may contact Yokohama's customer service at 1-800-423-4544.

..... where no man has gone before.

Yes and no. Depends on where you go in the part. Here are the requirements for the 4 areas of the park: R0: Chains must be carried, but they don’t need to be on your tires. R1: Chains required unless you’ve got snow tires or all-wheel drive. R2: Chains required unless you’ve got snow tires AND all-wheel drive. R3: Chains required. No exceptions. (Best snow tires for your Edge are the Continental VikingContact 7).

I'm running 245/50R20 Scorpions on my 09 MKX. Aspect ratio of 50 yields a tire with 122.5 mm. Your ar of 45 gives 110.3 mm. The additional height give a slightly smoother ride. (No rubbing). Ran Bridgestone 2x before switching to the Pirelli's. Bridgestone's are good, long life, Pirelli's a little smoother & quieter ride.

As I understand it, once disabled, it works but you won't be notified when a LED burns out. Guess its a price you have to pay. Wonder if it's possible to reprogram the bcm to accept LEDs in liew of incandescent? Seems possible.

Good to know. By any chance did you test the connection with a cd in the unit playing? These units need to have a cd playing in the unit in order to make a USB connection.

Incase no one has done the switch and replies, one way to estimate compatibility is to compare the part numbers (which differ year to year based on body style changes). 2010 Limited parts: Rear lower w/o tow, F01100617 Rear upper w/ rear object sensors, F01100616 Bumper reinforcement, rear w/o towing pkg, F01106349 2011 Limited parts: Rear lower w/o tow, F01115100 Rear lower w/ tow, F01115101 Rear upper w/ rear object sensors, F01115101 Bumper reinforcement, rear w/o towing pkg, F01106349 Note that for both generations, the bumper reinforcement is the same. I'd expect that the attachment points are the same, with the covers differing between minor styling changes. But that's only a guess.

Standard incandescent bulbs draw (perhaps 3 amps, just guessing) and LEDs perhaps 1/10 that amount. The SJB monitors the current draw of the total bor both bulbs (front and rear) to determine the flash rate. It expects the rated draw of the combined bulbs. If its half or less it thinks one bulb is burned out and doubles the flash rate to tell you that one of the bulbs is burned out. With LED bulbs, the SJB will measure only a fraction of the expected current draw and hyper-flashes the turn signal. Adding a resistor in series increases the load for that bulb and the SJB is happy (thinking it's an incandescent bulb). They make turn signal LED bulbs with resistors built in. Plug and play. (Easier installation). Example (there are several offerers listed on Amazon). 3157 3057 3357 4157 Turn Signal White Yellow Amber Switchback Led Light Bulbs 22 SMD with Projector, for Standard Socket, Not CK, Pair of 2 https://a.co/d/dsqMKHX

??? Isn't that the purpose of the USB ports, to be able to plug in a media audio device? Are you staying that, say one of these, won't work? https://www.autopartstoys.com/products/apt-usb-cd-player-2019-2020-ford-edge-compatible-radios-8-3-3-will-not-work-with-extension-cable-aptusbcd01-fd-2

Yup. I had a sensor in my 0mkx that did the same thing (the battery is designed to last 10 years). Finally got tired of this pesky annoyance popping up took the car in and got all new sensors. Talked to the service manager (guy is really knowledgeable) and discussed Motorcraft vs. chineese aftermarket. He said the get around one or more failure in every batch. The all work fine when first installed but the bad one(s) start to go bad after a few months. If I remember correctly, Motorcraft ran around $50 and aftermarket around half that. Plus new straps.

I believe that the cause 'could be' some "mechanics" are using SAE sockets in place of Metric. (Loose fit). No real evidence but I'm guilty of it myself and these nuts are unusually susceptible to a loose fitting tool. And none of us wants to damage our nuts when using our tools ..... :-/

?2x on Rock Auto. Have you checked out https://www.ssg.asia/