enigma-2

Believe it's 2,000 for the 2015 Sport, if it has 20" wheels AND the 2.7 engine. 3,500 lbs if equipped with the 3.5. (Note #4). https://letstowthat.com/ford-edge-towing-capacity/

Gas smell could be a leak. On mine, it was a vacuum line on the back side of the engine. Ford garage had to pull the manifold to reach. Try pulling codes to isolate location. The button to turn off the heated seats can be found on page 151 of the owners manual. Located on the hvac panel, looks like a little seat with two small lights above. Push the control located on the climate control system panel once to activate high heat, twice to activate low heat, third to turn off. The indicator light on the control will illuminate when activated. For low heat, one light will be lit; for high heat, both lights will be lit.

Sounds like you're looking for a universal mount. Would something like a Ringo work? https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/go-rhino-rc3-rc4-20-led-light-bar-751020/_/R-BBSP-751020 Remember that roof mount light bars must be covered in most states if operated on public highways.

There are youtube videos that cover this. Dupli-color sells a ceramic, high temp kit specifically for this purpose. $30. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dupli-color/paint---body-repair/paint/brake-caliper-paint/1ccbe6f22328/dupli-color-8-ounce-red-brake-caliper-spray-paint-kit/dpl0/bcp400/v/a/24000/automotive-suv-2007-ford-edge?pos=3

I would recommend silicone lube rather than WD40. WD40 attracts dirt and dust and may eventually cause more problems than it solves. Additionally it's formulated with naphtha and can melt certain types of plastic. (The interior of the mirror is plastic parts. I have no idea if it would affect anything on the mirror, but pretty certain silicone wouldn't).

I was mistaken about being backwards compatible. I was thinking about the cables and not the ports. Ran into this a few years back. Cable worked fine in one USB port, but not the one next to it. But the port worked when I plugged a jump drive into it. Had a hell of a time figuring it out until I "read the manual" (grunt, grunt, grunt) and discovered it was a 3.1 port. Not marked. (Think there's a couple of other glitches. I have a 3.0 jump drive that refuses to work in a 2.x port). But doesn't matter anyway, I usually leave some older USB 2 drives plugged in and they lower the speed to the slowest drive plugged in. As for the USB A, B or C configurations, they are referring to to the connector pin configuration, not speed or current output (as far as I understand it.) For example, a USB 3.1 port can be a C (most common nowadays) or an A (or B). FWIT, I just use a 12 volt power adapter that came with my Samsung phone. Much faster than USB or wireless. Plus I can leave my phone plugged in and concealed inside the console when I leave the car. (Phone continues to charge. My power points stay on when the car is off. USB doesn't). As far as how much current your Ford USB ports are putting out, I read in the F150 forum that Ford used USB 2.0 in gen 2 (500 ma). One guy measured his ports and got 450 ma. (He also reported 650 ma on his front 12 v power point and 850 ma on his rear power point.) With Sync 3, Ford included a "Smart Charging" port that can supply "up to 2 amps," depending on the device attached. For example, one tablet may charge at 2 amps max and another at 1.6 amps max. Your phone in the same port may only charge at 500 ma (or whatever the engineers desiged it to smart charge at). So its the device, not the port that determines the max current permitted. The 2 amp limit is really designed for laptops and tablets, and not cell phones (which would probably get too hot and fry the phone). I read here in this forum that the ports boost the voltage from 5 volts up to 12 volts the increase the current to 2.0 amps. Found it here: If you have two smart charging ports and two devices plugged in at the same time, the system will deliver whatever is needed to both ports st tbe same time. For example, 2 amps to the one smart port supplying a tablet, 1.6 amps to another smart port supplying a different tablet and 500 ma to a third smart port charging a cell phone ( even though the port is capable of delivering 2 amps of current max).

Check fuses #6 & #27. You may have inadvertently grounded a circuit during installation.

Everything dead is clear that either its the battery itself or the connection from the battery into the car. (Even off the battery is supplying current to many circuits, such as interior lights). Next time it happens, open the hood and initiate impact engineering on the battery. There's always the slight possibility that one of the plates cracked or a broken connection between the plate pile and cable connectors. Rare but not unheard of. Are the battery cable connections tight? At both ends? Everything dead. Use a VOM or test light, one terminal on + and the other on the starter connection. If power is getting to the starter, check to see if power is getting to the power distribution (fuse box). Also check that the top layer of the fuse box is seated properly over the second layer. Page 272 of the owners manual.

The VOM complies with USB 2.0. Is Ford using 2.0 or 3.0/3.1? (Could be wrong, but I thought that you couldn't use a USB 2 device in a USB 3 port).

I remember that USB 2.0 ports had a specification of 0.5 amps (500 ma). But this was increased with USB 3.0 and 3.1 ports to 0.9 amps (900 ma). The 3.1 specification "can" use the "C" connector, but it could also use the other specification connectors (such as "A" or "B" style connectors). I assume that Ford adopted the industry standard, but I never seen anything to verify that. Unless you read anything different, assume 4.5 watts max.

Check to see if its turned off in the menu. Believe it's called "keyfree", but I'm not certain it was available on your model. (Vehicle settings menu). (You don't have one of the "sleeper" key fobs that turn off after 40 seconds, do you)?

........... I changed a turn signal bulb ?

Can't help but wonder how a standard battery can go 4-5 years and the larger capacity ones fail after only after a couple of years? Too many short, daily trips. Seems to me that the best way to save the battery is to pop on a good charger once a week. Something with a desulfation cycle.

Apparently the plant will be converted to all electric and the gasoline powered platform will be discontinued. Ford is developing an electric crossover to replace the Edge and Nautilus. https://carbuzz.com/news/ford-edge-and-lincoln-nautilus-are-dead-after-2023

Next time your under the hood, check you battery terminals for looseness and/or corrosion.

If I were to guess, the remote start is governed by the SJB module and the Ford Pass goes through the modem first. Most likely the modem is not active during the shutdown, but the SJB is. Interesting find.

It usually activates when thd battery gets low, to save as much as it car to allow it to start. Its usually a sign that its either experiencing a current draw when the vehicle is off, or the battety is getting weak and needs replacing. Have you installed a dash cam or anything that may be drawing current when the car is off? Try unplugging it and see if the car still sets the sleep mode. If not, you probably need a new battery.

https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/fordpass/troubleshooting/why-is-my-ford-in-deep-sleep-mode/

Next! Ford makes leather from ocean cucumbers. Valve covers from whale bone. https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2021/12/08/ford-bronco-sport-recycled-ocean-plastic.html

Rotating seats are available. I don’t know which year you own, but I'd assume that there is a seat mod available. It comes down to the closest accessibility dealership near where you live. And cost may be a factor, but the dealership can advise where you can seek assistance. Start with this link: https://www.fordupfits.com/accessibility/ford-accessible-vehicles/accessible-suvs-crossovers Also: https://www.fordupfits.com/accessibility/ford-accessible-vehicles/accessible-suvs-crossovers You can locate a local upfit dealer at this page: https://www.fordupfits.com/accessibility/accessible-vehicles

I remember that thread, but I thought they were complaining about the lack of depth of the controls; but they could still make adjustments. Think the OP's complaint was the bass, mid and treble controls were not responding at all when adjusted. ( ot changing). I thought a reset or master restore may restore the controls to be responsive, but .... It may be a defective ACM. ???

I don't know exactly what setting are available in the radio diagnostic mode, but easy enough to check. To put the radio (ACM) into diagnostic mode, turn the radio tune to an FM station, then press and hold the seek up button and the eject button at the same time until the speaker walk-around test begins. (Be forwarded that as the speakers each test, it can be quite loud). The display indicates each speaker as it is tested. After the speaker "walk-around" test completes, (I believe) the radio will go into the diagnostic mode (exactly what's displayed is dependent on the system you have installed). ->You can also bypass the speaker test by pressing a key before it completes. The screen should tell you what key to press. ->Once in diagnostic mode, you can select from several categories to check in the radio. I don't know if thd sliders are covered or not, but you can play around and see.

About the only other thing I can think of is to force a total reset. You do this by pulling power from the radio and forcing it to do a full reboot. Pull the fuse for 15 minutes, think its 29 but check your owners manual to be certain (may have more than one). Another way is to pull the battety pos terminal, but you loose all settings in all systems, which means the car must relearn everything.

I replaced a 2009 MKX, 20" 0EM chrome clad in October. Dealer quoted something like $600+, but I got him into the $300+ range (forgot exact prices, but price is negotiable if it looks like you'll go somewhere else). While I had to wait 2-3 weeks as not stocked locally, they ARE available.

Try a "master reset". Press the "menu" button, down to "sync settings" and press "ok". Then press "master reset". This will reset the radio.