enigma-2

One way to extend their life is to wipe the rubber parts with an alcohol wipe to remove the grime; then treat with 303 Automotive Protectant. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DWEWESH3MHHATHJGYE3H

You probably added two years to your battery's life by adding water to those cells. Also remember to clean the top of the battery. Even a thin film of residue dried acid-water residue can cause a trickle discharge to occur in hot climates. I doubt the corrosion had much effect as it only affect the resistance unless it forms between the connection. Corrosion under the connection doesn't cause a resistance in and of itself. But it would probably work its way into the connection eventually so best to remove. Consider adding "anti corrosion washers" under the connection to prevent in the future. (Or an anti corrosion grease like "super lube"). Coke Cola is good for removing corrosion (acidic). So is lemon juice.

I think its normal to drop out of overdrive when going uphill. Are you certain that its not the road grade causing the overdrive to turn off?

Tell them you drove through deep water. Ford's service requires fluid change in PTU and differential when driven through deep water. (Its in the maintenance manual). If they still panic about changing fluid when Ford doesn't have a support procedure, tell them they can pump out the old fluid using the same pump used to change the differential fluid. I think I paid $80 in September at local Lincoln dealer.

Probably won't get any codes as they clear when you shut the car off. This has happened to others. In most cases it was traced to defective throttle body or throttle position switch. One guy reported the car restated after off/on like yours. Dealer found no codes, told him to bring in when happening. Next time it happened he had it towed while running (couldn't drive it). Dealer traced to throttle body (code 2111 on invoice). No problems after replacing throttle body (7 years).

Kind of sounds like a tss/oss sensor failure.

Don't know how its done in the modern cars, years ago when they were developing the electric drive, they moderated power by "pulsing" (turning the current on and off quickly) the current through the controller (or was it the contactor?) and motor. They had to limit the maximum current to prevent the motor and controller from overheating and burning out. It also dialed back the length of time the current was "on" based on how hot the controller was getting. (Full acceleration would make the controller and motor super hot very quickly). By dialing the current back it slowed the rate at which the components continued to heat.

Sounds silly, but must be asked, anything covering the light sensor on the top of the instrument panel?

Ebay

Forget. 6, 7 years. Possibly 8. Problem is, wife only drives short trips. Gets replaced 12/21 along with "The Works". Been sitting on a CTEK for several days. Went through all 8 steps, took awhile but completed ok.

Disagree. Edge lasting for 330,000 miles is a selling point for buying a Ford. I'm considering having the water pump replaced as preventive maintenance around 175,000. But, if Mac is getting 300,000+ maybe I should rethink this. (Currently 12 years and still under PremiumCARE full warranty. So if it goes now. Pfffff!)

330,000 miles. That just kills me. Ford should use you in one of their ads. ?

Probably machine thread. I'd try a 12x4 metric thread. (Although a sheet metal screw should work).

From your description I would suspect the fan assembly. Fans run differently when a/c on. Check noise with a/c off. Then turn on a/c to MAX (forces fans to come on full). If sound changes, fan assy may be loose (or defective bearing).

OK, that's officially wierd. Lights have to be on to chirp. Still think its the blower motor. Next time it starts chirping, turn the blower completely off and see if it stops too.

Auto Zone, etc. Most auto stores can/will reset it for you. Good business.

Did you replace with the correct bulbs? *Circuit may be current sensitive).

Q. How does one "delete" the rear wiper? A. Take it through the car wash.

200 milliamps sounds reasonable. Your battery is suspect. Suggest you have it load tested. Lowest draw is after 15 or 20 minute delay expires. Wife's car had no problem starting all year. She went out to start last week and dead. Really dead. Jumped ok using boost and measured CCAs using Solar BA9 tester. Battery has 650 CCA when new, measured 180 CCA after jump and driving several miles (to charge up). Been setting on charger since then and scheduled to be replaced at Ford garage next week.

My handle broke off when I came out of Walmart late one night. Easy to replace and I chose to purchase a Motorcraft handle. (I prefer quality and longevity over cheap and clingy). This youtube video shows you how to do it. The only critical part is not to drop the screw in the door (like the guy in the video did). I made a paper "u channel" out of paper and put under the screw while removing and replacing. Also attached a magnet to my torx driver.

Most of the inner works are available, including the axle bering carrier, shaft repair sleeve, bearing & hub assembly repair kit, axle bearing carrier, axle assembly, axle shafts & nuts. So what exactly broke that can't be fixed?

If it were me, I'd consider these as well as adding a "webbed" barrier to prevent the poopies from being thrown forward. https://www.carmelocarmats.com/product/black-boot-liner/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=USA GS FEED&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=417&aelia_cs_currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAiAv_KMBhAzEiwAs-rX1K2ITn5VQ5ZPML1rQi77N-RZ5xNBHyCby1GME2lP3O9r5Xw6ezOHiRoCzzcQAvD_BwE

There is a used one offered on Ebay (think this is the right one). $300 sounds like a good price considering that the original price was over a grand. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-Ford-Edge-REAR-AXLE-DIFFERENTIAL-AWD-/275034357253?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Consider that it may be related to your aftermarket warranty. They (the warranter) may be specifying the use of cheaper aftermarket parts when available. But if not, it may be that the Axle manufacturer can only produce rear ends in a limited amount (getting people is a huge problem in rejoining the economy). And this limited amount is directed to new production. This is a tough economy. Far too many young people lost their work ethic and want to sit at home and get paid for it. Not just the states (although we seem to be blessed with more than minimal amount of slackers). China also has lost trained employees; especially dock workers and ship's personnel. Their only capable of fielding a percentage of ships that were sea borne before the pandemic. And the docks here in the US and not exempt. But our real problems relate to truck drivers. Many have moved on and are not driving anymore. (Its notable that new replacment drivers in trucking schools are women!) I still work with many of my old clients (clients before I retired). One builder told me that their supplier cannot get (bath fan) vent duct. Although the duct is manufactured here in the US, the plastic beads (used for moulding) and the steel wire are on ships, choked off Long Beach harbor. Been there for weeks. So the can't make any more duct until the ship can dock, unload and transport to the plant. So why can't they use any plastic beads and steel wire; you reasonably may ask? Because the finished duct is UL Listed and in a listing, all parts must be inspected as part of the listing. In short, ONLY that wire, and ONLY that plastic beads can be used. (Changing suppliers takes weeks of testing, investigation, inspections at thd facility and $$$.) So they are changing suppliers. And the new product is not under a contract and nearly double in price. And that's just one item among thousands that go into a new home. You may be better off getting g a good used rear end from a wrecking yard and going that route.

Protection from dog or kids? Never seen anything made from heavy rubber, I used the standard kid protector and it worked ok. (Grandson liked to kick the back of the passenger seat.)