enigma-2

Well that doesn't sound normal. Codes may be erased when car shut off. Maybe a code reader you can plug in right after it occurs again? I have a Bluetooth reader plugged in that I can read while driving. I sometimes get "oops" codes. You know, where it throws a code and you look it up and it reads "my bad, I thought I had an error but that was an error" code. ?

If it happens again, you could try resetting the hvac module. Hold down the climate control power button and the defrost button at the same time, release then press the climate control power button one more time and that will reset your heater. Unrelated to the problem, but how long has it been since you changed your cabin air filter?

My prayers are for those who lost loved ones and those who suffered loss in the tornadoes last night. So much disaster for those in Arkansas, Illinois, Kentucky, Mississippi, Missouri and Tennessee. Especially those who lost everything in Eastern Kentucky. Feel deeply for your loss.

One way to extend their life is to wipe the rubber parts with an alcohol wipe to remove the grime; then treat with 303 Automotive Protectant. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DWEWESH3MHHATHJGYE3H

You probably added two years to your battery's life by adding water to those cells. Also remember to clean the top of the battery. Even a thin film of residue dried acid-water residue can cause a trickle discharge to occur in hot climates. I doubt the corrosion had much effect as it only affect the resistance unless it forms between the connection. Corrosion under the connection doesn't cause a resistance in and of itself. But it would probably work its way into the connection eventually so best to remove. Consider adding "anti corrosion washers" under the connection to prevent in the future. (Or an anti corrosion grease like "super lube"). Coke Cola is good for removing corrosion (acidic). So is lemon juice.

I think its normal to drop out of overdrive when going uphill. Are you certain that its not the road grade causing the overdrive to turn off?

Tell them you drove through deep water. Ford's service requires fluid change in PTU and differential when driven through deep water. (Its in the maintenance manual). If they still panic about changing fluid when Ford doesn't have a support procedure, tell them they can pump out the old fluid using the same pump used to change the differential fluid. I think I paid $80 in September at local Lincoln dealer.

Probably won't get any codes as they clear when you shut the car off. This has happened to others. In most cases it was traced to defective throttle body or throttle position switch. One guy reported the car restated after off/on like yours. Dealer found no codes, told him to bring in when happening. Next time it happened he had it towed while running (couldn't drive it). Dealer traced to throttle body (code 2111 on invoice). No problems after replacing throttle body (7 years).

Kind of sounds like a tss/oss sensor failure.

Don't know how its done in the modern cars, years ago when they were developing the electric drive, they moderated power by "pulsing" (turning the current on and off quickly) the current through the controller (or was it the contactor?) and motor. They had to limit the maximum current to prevent the motor and controller from overheating and burning out. It also dialed back the length of time the current was "on" based on how hot the controller was getting. (Full acceleration would make the controller and motor super hot very quickly). By dialing the current back it slowed the rate at which the components continued to heat.

Sounds silly, but must be asked, anything covering the light sensor on the top of the instrument panel?

Ebay

Forget. 6, 7 years. Possibly 8. Problem is, wife only drives short trips. Gets replaced 12/21 along with "The Works". Been sitting on a CTEK for several days. Went through all 8 steps, took awhile but completed ok.

Disagree. Edge lasting for 330,000 miles is a selling point for buying a Ford. I'm considering having the water pump replaced as preventive maintenance around 175,000. But, if Mac is getting 300,000+ maybe I should rethink this. (Currently 12 years and still under PremiumCARE full warranty. So if it goes now. Pfffff!)

330,000 miles. That just kills me. Ford should use you in one of their ads. ?

Probably machine thread. I'd try a 12x4 metric thread. (Although a sheet metal screw should work).

From your description I would suspect the fan assembly. Fans run differently when a/c on. Check noise with a/c off. Then turn on a/c to MAX (forces fans to come on full). If sound changes, fan assy may be loose (or defective bearing).

OK, that's officially wierd. Lights have to be on to chirp. Still think its the blower motor. Next time it starts chirping, turn the blower completely off and see if it stops too.

Auto Zone, etc. Most auto stores can/will reset it for you. Good business.

Did you replace with the correct bulbs? *Circuit may be current sensitive).

Q. How does one "delete" the rear wiper? A. Take it through the car wash.

200 milliamps sounds reasonable. Your battery is suspect. Suggest you have it load tested. Lowest draw is after 15 or 20 minute delay expires. Wife's car had no problem starting all year. She went out to start last week and dead. Really dead. Jumped ok using boost and measured CCAs using Solar BA9 tester. Battery has 650 CCA when new, measured 180 CCA after jump and driving several miles (to charge up). Been setting on charger since then and scheduled to be replaced at Ford garage next week.

My handle broke off when I came out of Walmart late one night. Easy to replace and I chose to purchase a Motorcraft handle. (I prefer quality and longevity over cheap and clingy). This youtube video shows you how to do it. The only critical part is not to drop the screw in the door (like the guy in the video did). I made a paper "u channel" out of paper and put under the screw while removing and replacing. Also attached a magnet to my torx driver.

Most of the inner works are available, including the axle bering carrier, shaft repair sleeve, bearing & hub assembly repair kit, axle bearing carrier, axle assembly, axle shafts & nuts. So what exactly broke that can't be fixed?

If it were me, I'd consider these as well as adding a "webbed" barrier to prevent the poopies from being thrown forward. https://www.carmelocarmats.com/product/black-boot-liner/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=USA GS FEED&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=417&aelia_cs_currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAiAv_KMBhAzEiwAs-rX1K2ITn5VQ5ZPML1rQi77N-RZ5xNBHyCby1GME2lP3O9r5Xw6ezOHiRoCzzcQAvD_BwE