enigma-2

I don't see the need to change to oil pan drain plug unless it's been over-tightened or old. (Threads do get stretched each time its retightened.) I get "the works" oil change at the local Ford garage & usually tell them to replace it, if it needs it. They've only replaced it once that i know of. However a copper crush washer is designed to be changed after being removed (one time use). Some people reuse these washers and tend to over tighten the plug to get the same seal.

That may work if it weren't for this being a lease. If not perfect, either the dealer or leasing agent auditor will spot it and he'll get a bill for full cost to replace. (Lease contracts require you return the car in perfect condition, other than "normal" wear and tear. Damage of any part must be repaired). Had a work associate who took his car back and dealer found a few dings he got billed for. Then a few weeks later he got another bill from the leasing agent who found one wheel that had excessive road rash (dealer missed or ignored). Was hit with a bill for several hundred and he was livid. Refused to pay. Their lawyer finally sent a pay or else letter and he paid. Dealer told him their inspection was done to find what they thought the lessor would find. (And of course it generates work for their body shop. Wink.) But the lessor, who actually owns the car, has the last say. And the contract spells out the exact condition the car must be returned in. (Road rash on the wheel was considered as collision damage). I'd start by taking it to the dealer and use their quote as a starting basis. Then stop by a couple of good quality body shops. (Their quote should come in around 80% of the dealer. If it's more, I'd go with the dealer).

I agree, for $11 and brighter, not worth the hassel. Only thing I did different was to slap a layer of electrical tape over the connectors. (Didn't want them to short together).

Sure did. First contact was a lovely place in sunny California, called "boot camp" retreat. The "doctors" wore smokey the bear hats and constantly checked out the health of our nuts. Whenever we got obstructed, they'd scare the piss out of us. Never failed. (Its the constipation corrections I never missed).

Clicked on your "example" but it doesn't take me anywhere. These are what I used, paid extra, but no complaints. Bright and wide pattern. (Example only, there are many to choose from). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM8CB3L/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_AK33728MKNJD9GAJF1TK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Sharp. Is that Lightning Blue? (Should ask what year, model, engine?) Looks nice.

The CCA rating is the number of amps a battery can support for 30 seconds, when cranking a starter motor, at a temperature of 0°F until the battery voltage drops to unusable levels. It's regarded as a battery's "reserve capacity". The higher the rating, the better. When the CCA rating drops below 50%, the battery is regarded as needing replacment. It will still start the car at this level, but its wearing out at faster rate. The CCA rating is really an important factor in colder climates and much less important in warm/hot climates. (But it still has its value). As to why your charger starts at 50%, it may be undergoing a desulfation cycle (or someother magic). Sounds like you bought a good one. Haven't thought about drying the inside of the door jambs. Its great to drive in a car that looks and feels showroom. I tried for the first few years, dealer still thinks I'm a fanatic, tells his staff I'm "very particular". (Needs to be detailed. The company I like to use is in another city.) I normally just run it through the local car wash. Ultimate cycle of course. Too old, too lazy to do it myself ?

Probably shop needs to test the CCA rating and determine that the rating, when fully charged, is less than 50% in order to provide warranty exchange. (Service rep is probably just testing voltage).

MOA is an oil treatment that prevents engine oil degradation (extends oil changes). Fuel injectors are recommended to be cleaned at 30k mile intervals, so you were not too bad off. (Most of the time if your using tier one gasoline, you can go longer). When cleaning the inside of your car and leaving the doors open, why not just open all the windows instead. Still get sufficient air exchange (think of moisture as a pressure). Most dealers only test batterys for voltage. Even weak batteries test 12.5 volts. But if the "capacity" is low, that 12 volts can drop to 9 volts in a few seconds. To be certain your battety is still good, you have to test the CCA reserve. A battery can start off at 650 CCA's, test good at 12.6 volts but only have a reserve of 200 CCA's. As soon as you start to crank, the reserve is used up and your doa.

When the car is running and heated up, hold the top radiator hose. If its not hot, suspect the water pump.

Light removal is simple. https://paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-Edge-Rear-Cargo-Area-Light-Bulb-Replacement-Guide/index.html But you'll probably have to pull the inner cargo panel to access enough wire to tap into.

One other possibility is to install a cargo light from another model, that already has a switch. Here's one example, I would imagine there are many others. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Compatible-with-2015-2020-Ford-F-150-250-F-350-Bed-Cargo-Lamp-Light-Switch-/324886349853?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

No, when the tailgate is open, the light is on. People have been complaining about this since 2008. There are two work arounds. 1. Wire in a switch to disconnect the light. 2. Shove an ink pen or screwdriver into the latch mechanism and pop it closed. (It thinks it's closed and the light goes out.) But, you MUST trigger the latch open again before actually closing the tailgate, or it will not latch and reopen.

A very good charger are the chargers from CTEC. They can bring a battety back when others can't. Start with a desulfate phase, and walk the battey through 8 stages. Fully rain and snow proof, it also has a cold weather mode that raises the charge voltage up to 14.5 volts. Shortens charging times). One additional feature for cars that are charged frequently, you can attach an optional, semi-permanent assembly to your battery, then just plug the charger into this harness. (Can charge with hood closed). This is the one I have, now replaced with a newer model. I've had excellent results in recovering old batteries it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GES7J8RTDJ871KBCQR8E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You normally connect the negative lead to engine ground, instead of battety ground, because the battery discharges hydrogen gas. When making a connection, it's common for less expensive chargers to spark, possibly igniting the flammable gas. (It's more critical when jumping from another car, but still a possibility from a charger).

It's my understanding that in Sync 1, you can select several different display languages, but the system only recognizes English, French and Spanish spoken to it. (I may be mistaken as I've never played with this "feature").Believe they expanded the language packs in Sync 2. Seems to OP edited his question, I think this is what he was talking about.

Word of caution, when I had mine done in October, they could only find three Motorcraft in stock in the eastern part of the country (all at dealers, none in supply chain). Got mine from a dealer in Louisville area.

What color of coolant is in the car?

Deleted original post. Passed over where you replaced the purge valve (usual cause). Possible vacuum hose leak?

When the PTU runs low it makes a growling sound. But its what I'd suspect as I had this happen to me. As for the tires, Tirerack.com tested the tires and complained about a low rumble sound. https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=215

20" are definitely harder riding than the 19"'s. But, the 20" wheels are definitely cooler. ? I'm running Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus II, & very satisfied with them. Smooth and quiet.

Believe it's 2,000 for the 2015 Sport, if it has 20" wheels AND the 2.7 engine. 3,500 lbs if equipped with the 3.5. (Note #4). https://letstowthat.com/ford-edge-towing-capacity/

Gas smell could be a leak. On mine, it was a vacuum line on the back side of the engine. Ford garage had to pull the manifold to reach. Try pulling codes to isolate location. The button to turn off the heated seats can be found on page 151 of the owners manual. Located on the hvac panel, looks like a little seat with two small lights above. Push the control located on the climate control system panel once to activate high heat, twice to activate low heat, third to turn off. The indicator light on the control will illuminate when activated. For low heat, one light will be lit; for high heat, both lights will be lit.

Sounds like you're looking for a universal mount. Would something like a Ringo work? https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/go-rhino-rc3-rc4-20-led-light-bar-751020/_/R-BBSP-751020 Remember that roof mount light bars must be covered in most states if operated on public highways.

There are youtube videos that cover this. Dupli-color sells a ceramic, high temp kit specifically for this purpose. $30. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dupli-color/paint---body-repair/paint/brake-caliper-paint/1ccbe6f22328/dupli-color-8-ounce-red-brake-caliper-spray-paint-kit/dpl0/bcp400/v/a/24000/automotive-suv-2007-ford-edge?pos=3