enigma-2

Wife's battery in her car started failing last month. Jumped and started but didn't charge enough while driving so I put it on the CTEK charger (I have the older 56-864 charger). Changed it to the AGM setting (charges standard flooded better in cold weather, voltage steps up to 14.7 volts) and left it go through its 8 cycles. Took nearly 14 hours. Battery came back -if- she drove a trip of a few miles or more. Start and stop left it without sufficient reserve. (Car is getting a new battery as I write this). Thought about popping it out, top it off with distilled water and add some Epsom salts, but ...... I'm lazy. So new battery. ?

Why did they replace the exhaust system with aftermarket on a new car? Be curious to see the muffler specs as to back pressure, catalytic converter restrictions, diameter, etc. Invalidates Ford warranty as well.

You might need to replace the blend door actuator on the side that is not working properly. Passenger side is easy, drivers side requires effort, although I've seen a YouTube video where the guy was able to change without tearing the dash out. One other thing to try first is a HVAC reset. Try this Doors closed, engine running, press the climate control power and defrost buttons simultaneously. Hold for a 10-15 seconds and release. Then press the climate control power button one more time. The HVAC "should" cycle the actuators and reestablish the ends calibration and reset the system. (You may have to do this a few times to get the stuck actuator to recycle and free up).

No resistor in a car with auto climate hvac system (uses a computer module, and when the resistor fails, it defaults to high). You indicated earlier that you have the auto climate system. I'm agreeing that your motor is bad. The junk kept it from turning, drawing excess current and overheating (these motors require continuous air over).

Rear Wiper Delete Kit, Rear Wiper Delete Kit Car Waterproof Block Off Plug Cap for Rear Tailgate Wiper Arm ABS Black 37mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H1XV59B/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XKQF6JBJBF35SPZS0J7E Universal, 37mm & 46 mm plugs. ~$10

Looked up your 2014 and the ABS is not on a recall (affected 2011 cars). There are currently 3 recalls, 2 on the axles and one on fuel pump.

Don't think the the recall affected your car so you'll probably have to pay out of pocket. (I'd take whatever you have to pay as so hard to find. I'm seeing $200-$300). Here are so suggestions you can try (one of these Ford dealers may still have one in stock, let them know you will pay a premium to buy): Lakeland Ford https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/ABS-Control-Module/51620446/DT4Z2C219B.html Ebay (in stock, ready to ship) https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fp%2F1630731422 FordPartsForSale https://www.fordpartsonsale.com/oem-parts/ford-control-module-dt4z2c219b?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8ICOBhDmARIsAEGI6o16Mg3zeKxRGvfnR1yl4OJIyRhcGk4Mz2mSbjU-ABRl_wR_mBwHjDgaAi7gEALw_wcB SunSetFord https://parts.sunsetford.com/p/Ford__Edge/ABS-Control-Module-ABS-Control-Module-ExcAdaptive-Cruise-Control/51620446/DT4Z2C219B.html FriendlyFord https://www.oempartsforyourford.com/p/Ford__Edge/ABS-Control-Module-ABS-Control-Module-ExcAdaptive-Cruise-Control/51620446/DT4Z2C219B.html

Probably water related. But could be many things. As two doors are involved, probably grounding related. Try checking the wire bundle at both door jambs. These flex and it may be possible that one or more may have frayed causing a ground from water from the car wash.

Have you seen this response for the same problem? https://www.yourmechanic.com/question/the-transmission-keeps-dropping-out-of-overdrive-by-tim-p BTW, plugs should be changed around 90,000 miles. With the age of the car, I'd change the plugs.

Have you ever replaced your spark plugs?

This guy did it on an Explorer. Should be good guidance. But, I'd recommend keeping all the parts as it will probably hurt the resale. He used a wiper delete plug for a civic. NICECNC Rear Wiper Delete Kit Block Off Plug Cap Compatible with Civic Si 2002-2005,Civic Hatchback 1992-1995 Window butt Plug: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQKGD57/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MRY91CEPN17PEPA8TA86 Article: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/rear-wiper-delete.489685/

The first thing is to get the codes read. This will narrow down the problem to a specific area. Q. Have you ever changed the spark plugs. Historically problems in this area have been found to be related to plugs, coils or PCM failures. (Worn plugs can cause the other two).

I'm getting a new Ford battery in my wife's car next week. She drives a Sebring Convertible, where you actually have the disassemble part of the car and use "special tools" (according to Sam's Club who refused to install a new battery) to get to the battery. (Real pita, have to pull off a wheel and inner fender). Anyway, seen you are using a Motorcraft AGM battery. I might consider going this route as its such a pain to change. Care to share a ballpark as what it costs? Her car takes a group 75, 650 CCA.

What made you select paint over a vinyl wrap for the engine cover? Do you feel paint will hold up inasmuch as it's so flexible? What did you use for the chrome accents? (Car is excellent, by the way).

You send off to Blackstone?

Understood. Just never seen a battery at or near its 'as manufactured' rating. Thinking you may have an 850 CCA rated battery installed. But I'm only guessing.

Let's revolt. Let's "brake" the rules and force Papa Smerf Let's revolt. Let's "brake" the rules and force Papa Smerf to bow to our combined wills. ?

I have this model as well. You can also test your charging system using this equipment. If memory serves (been awhile) you connect it, switch to charging system testing and start your engine. I'm curious as to why your getting 839 CCA on a battery rated as 800 CCA. I've never seen a battery showing a higher charge than its rating.

If you have it tested, make certain they test the CCA rating, not the voltage. I use a Solar BA7 and wife's car battery is acting up. Checked and it showed 12.6 volts but only 182 CCAs (new it rated 650 CCAs). Gets a new battery week after next. That 12.6 volts can drop to 9 volts after starting due to low capacity and these electronic modules throw a hissy fit on low voltage.

He mentioned he hit the "auto" button. Believe he has the auto climate control system. Tmaf901, the resister is located on (or near) the motor (needs air over for cooling). However if you have an auto climate control system, (you mentioned that you hit the "auto" button, not present in a manual system) there is no resistor pack. It's all done through the control module. If you have a manual system, the resistor pack failed as WWWPerfA_ZNOW stated. (Nothing else can cause this). If you have the auto system, the hvac electronic module had a hiccup. (On an auto climate system, one 'possible' cause is a weak vehicle battery. Do you make short trips when you drive? Short trips don't properly recharge the battery properly). When the battery gets weak, the voltage runs low and these modules are sensitive to low voltage. If not short trips, its possible it's just getting worn out from age/use. Or, the module got passed off that day and decided to go on strike. Happens.

The usual reason is they only warrant their tires if sold and installed by an authorized dealer. Buy from Amazon or other discount outlet and they will refuse to honor their warranty. Fairly common way to protect their dealer network.

May be useful if you gave more specific details such as year, etc.

It's fairly easy to change, here's a YouTube video showing how https://youtu.be/xS2h_3zBMFw

Probably the strap holding the sensor to the hub broke (I had this happen). Allows the sensor to slap against the inside of the wheel. With me, the tire balance was of periodically and a thumping sound came and went. This was a NAPA branded strap the dealer installed, as Motorcraft out of stock. (Replacement wheel, had to replace strap but used original sensor). I'd recommend you ONLY consider Motorcraft as a replacement.

As it's rented, you may be required to have the original exhaust equipment replaced when turning back in. It’s in your contract. Dealer will do an inspection, if he doesn't catch it (probably will) the loan company's inspection probably will. They will send you a bill if they do it and make the appropriate markup.