enigma-2

The VOM complies with USB 2.0. Is Ford using 2.0 or 3.0/3.1? (Could be wrong, but I thought that you couldn't use a USB 2 device in a USB 3 port).

I remember that USB 2.0 ports had a specification of 0.5 amps (500 ma). But this was increased with USB 3.0 and 3.1 ports to 0.9 amps (900 ma). The 3.1 specification "can" use the "C" connector, but it could also use the other specification connectors (such as "A" or "B" style connectors). I assume that Ford adopted the industry standard, but I never seen anything to verify that. Unless you read anything different, assume 4.5 watts max.

Check to see if its turned off in the menu. Believe it's called "keyfree", but I'm not certain it was available on your model. (Vehicle settings menu). (You don't have one of the "sleeper" key fobs that turn off after 40 seconds, do you)?

........... I changed a turn signal bulb ?

Can't help but wonder how a standard battery can go 4-5 years and the larger capacity ones fail after only after a couple of years? Too many short, daily trips. Seems to me that the best way to save the battery is to pop on a good charger once a week. Something with a desulfation cycle.

Apparently the plant will be converted to all electric and the gasoline powered platform will be discontinued. Ford is developing an electric crossover to replace the Edge and Nautilus. https://carbuzz.com/news/ford-edge-and-lincoln-nautilus-are-dead-after-2023

Next time your under the hood, check you battery terminals for looseness and/or corrosion.

If I were to guess, the remote start is governed by the SJB module and the Ford Pass goes through the modem first. Most likely the modem is not active during the shutdown, but the SJB is. Interesting find.

It usually activates when thd battery gets low, to save as much as it car to allow it to start. Its usually a sign that its either experiencing a current draw when the vehicle is off, or the battety is getting weak and needs replacing. Have you installed a dash cam or anything that may be drawing current when the car is off? Try unplugging it and see if the car still sets the sleep mode. If not, you probably need a new battery.

https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/fordpass/troubleshooting/why-is-my-ford-in-deep-sleep-mode/

Next! Ford makes leather from ocean cucumbers. Valve covers from whale bone. https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2021/12/08/ford-bronco-sport-recycled-ocean-plastic.html

Rotating seats are available. I don’t know which year you own, but I'd assume that there is a seat mod available. It comes down to the closest accessibility dealership near where you live. And cost may be a factor, but the dealership can advise where you can seek assistance. Start with this link: https://www.fordupfits.com/accessibility/ford-accessible-vehicles/accessible-suvs-crossovers Also: https://www.fordupfits.com/accessibility/ford-accessible-vehicles/accessible-suvs-crossovers You can locate a local upfit dealer at this page: https://www.fordupfits.com/accessibility/accessible-vehicles

I remember that thread, but I thought they were complaining about the lack of depth of the controls; but they could still make adjustments. Think the OP's complaint was the bass, mid and treble controls were not responding at all when adjusted. ( ot changing). I thought a reset or master restore may restore the controls to be responsive, but .... It may be a defective ACM. ???

I don't know exactly what setting are available in the radio diagnostic mode, but easy enough to check. To put the radio (ACM) into diagnostic mode, turn the radio tune to an FM station, then press and hold the seek up button and the eject button at the same time until the speaker walk-around test begins. (Be forwarded that as the speakers each test, it can be quite loud). The display indicates each speaker as it is tested. After the speaker "walk-around" test completes, (I believe) the radio will go into the diagnostic mode (exactly what's displayed is dependent on the system you have installed). ->You can also bypass the speaker test by pressing a key before it completes. The screen should tell you what key to press. ->Once in diagnostic mode, you can select from several categories to check in the radio. I don't know if thd sliders are covered or not, but you can play around and see.

About the only other thing I can think of is to force a total reset. You do this by pulling power from the radio and forcing it to do a full reboot. Pull the fuse for 15 minutes, think its 29 but check your owners manual to be certain (may have more than one). Another way is to pull the battety pos terminal, but you loose all settings in all systems, which means the car must relearn everything.

I replaced a 2009 MKX, 20" 0EM chrome clad in October. Dealer quoted something like $600+, but I got him into the $300+ range (forgot exact prices, but price is negotiable if it looks like you'll go somewhere else). While I had to wait 2-3 weeks as not stocked locally, they ARE available.

Try a "master reset". Press the "menu" button, down to "sync settings" and press "ok". Then press "master reset". This will reset the radio.

Press Settings on your SYNC screen. Select General. Use the arrow to choose your language (English, Français, or Español). Pulse Configuración en la pantalla SYNC. Seleccione General. Utilice la flecha para elegir su idioma (inglés, francés o español).

Chuckle, novel way to fix the problem. ? How liking the 2021? Big difference, eh?

If you're getting hot on both sides & no cold, sounds like the blend door actuator failure. Could try a reset again, sometimes it takes several attempts. Pulling the battery cables for 15 minutes, will force the module to cycle the actuators full open and full close to reestablish the max open and close points. Failing either of these easy fixes, I'd suspect a failing actuator or linkage.

I would still be concerned as to how the junk got into the motor area to begin with. (Don't want this happening to the new motor). Do you have a cabin filter or a "filter screen"? (If just a screen, I pitch and install a filter in its place).

In my experience, all arms have groves. Needed to drive them through snow and wind. A new OEM arm will run around $41.25. Right side is P/N FT4Z17526B, left side P/N is FT4Z17527A.

Could be way off, but it looks like rail dust (iron dust = rust) to me. Do you live near a railroad? Best to remove. I'd take through a drive-through car wash and get the wash that under sprays under the car bottom. (Usually the cheapest will).

Try a radio reset. Hold power and forward buttons for 15 seconds.

I don't know if this will work or not as it's the setup for an F150, 3.5L, twin turbo EcoBoost V6. You can always try it and change back if not. Before changing, hit backup, give it a name "agm change 2021.12.21" and save. Just in case. Using FORScan, connect to your port, Engine to "on", do not start. Radio off. Goto: ACM (as built) Goto: 727-01-01 if it reads xxxx.D000.8032 (engine sound off), try changing to xxxx.D200.8032 May get a checksum error, write anyway and exit. Should turn on the engine sound so it sounds like a 5.0L, V8 Coyote. Again.