enigma-2

Pull the radio to connect in back

Bug shield, clear is the problem. Butbif you're going to paint it, color shouldn't matter. These fit your car https://realtruck.com/c/exterior-accessories/bug-shields/v/ford/edge/2019/

Window deflectors: https://www.carid.com/avs/tape-on-low-profile-ventvisor-smoke-front-and-rear-window-deflectors-mpn-894083.html?singleid=1689259246&url=121777013

Hitch cover with "ST" on it. https://www.zazzle.com/c/trailer+hitch+covers?rf=238406510012362768&tc=CjwKCAjwn8SLBhAyEiwAHNTJbWg4N6g3Own45XSVKJR6mZOP4Js6QXHEtpO6PBG8NyTEKsMi9rqL1hoCkokQAvD_BwE&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=homepets&utm_term=custom trailer hitch cover&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=CjwKCAjwn8SLBhAyEiwAHNTJbWg4N6g3Own45XSVKJR6mZOP4Js6QXHEtpO6PBG8NyTEKsMi9rqL1hoCkokQAvD_BwE

Problem with the 2016 the Edges that came with the time dilation option, is acquiring the two vials of plutonium needed for the round trip. Plutonium has gotten expensive since COVID-19 broke out.

Really nice looking car. Should be very happy with it. Couple of areas you should look at when buying a used Edge. 1) Check what maintenance has been performed on the car. Areas critical are, 1-change spark plugs ~90,000 miles and transmission fluid. 2- change coolant to new green (full flush of old coolant. Oil changes and coolant changes are important for water pump life. As the water pump is internal on these engines (common on transverse engines), if they leak, its possible to leak internally into the oil pan. This ruins the oil lubrication and kills the engine. So, important). 3-change cabin filter every 30k (lot of people forget about this one. Gets clogged and drops heater/ac air flow and is the cause of smells in cabin). 4- clean under-seat filters (if you have heated/cooled seats). Incase you don't have it, I'll attach a copy of the 2007 maintenance manual. Welcome to the forum. 2007 Edge Maintence.pdf

Coming from an Escape to an Edge, is a huge step up. You're going to love it.

Maybe he meant the 3.7 L which is trubo. The 3.5L is a twin Independent Variable Valve Timing (Ti-VCT) V6 engine.

You gave to drill out the rivets. Here's a thread where it was discussed:

Like this? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541APSFD21/PAC-APSUB-FD21-AmpPRO-SUB-Wiring-Interface.html

Try a Master Reset on Sync. Go to home screen, click on Settings, General, scroll down to Master Reset, press, press continue.

Why? You've earned it.

Bet the contacts are corroded. When you made and remade to connection you scraped enough corrosion off to remake the contact. Probably won't last however, corrosion likes to grow. Suggest you spray contacts with a cleaner specifically designed for this. Cleans then protects. Here's what I recommend: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_500CTHFZ8CDF3HP4Z9M6

Oogh, oogh, oogh (as officer Toody would say on Car 54, Where Are You) I love this idea. (Evil grin, hands rubbing in glazed look). I came up with a device to get tailgaters off my tale (but never got around to implementing it). Set up a plastic container with brake fluid in it. Using a windshield wiper pump to pump the break fluid out on to the drivers rear tire. The spray will get picked up by the tire and coat the windshield of the car behind you. (Car must be close or it won't work). Once he sees the drops on his windshield, he'll turn on his wipers and washers. And that's it. Once the brake fluid gets mixed with water, it turns into a sticky goo and makes the glass blury. He has no choice but to back off, stop and clean his windshield. (As I said, thought it up but never actually tried it. But it's tempting....). Anyway, Rain-x is good, but doesn't last nearly long enough. Found a "much" better way that keeps windshield clean and slippery. Good as and better than Rain-x. Here's what I do; 1) Clean windshield with Windex and a microfiber towel. Clean one side then the other. 2) Next clean the glass with degreaser. (I use Simple Green). 3) Follow with clay bar and warm water. (I use Mothers Clay Bar System). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FP0ZEF9HS75TDPC144Q3 If you've never used a clay bar to clean the surface; here's how: Wet the glass (your can't use too much lube) and wipe the glass first in an up and down motion, then in a circular motion. Whenever the clay sticks or hangs (there is a contaminate on the glass), continue to rub that spot until the clay slides smoothly. (The clay will loosen additional dirt embedded in the pores of the glass). 4) Clean the glass again with Windex and a new microfiber rowel. 5) Dry the windshield with a microfiber towel. 6) Apply a thin layer of good quality carnauba Wax (Collinite 476 is the most long lasting). example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P3ZO2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_i06EAbZDVS70X Glass should look frosted when applied properly. Allow five minutes or more to dry properly. Test by running finger through wax. If finger smudge is clear & pushes up a small ridge of wax at the top of the finger smudge, the wax is dry and ready to buff off. If the glass is not completely clear and clean in the finger smudge, the wax is not ready yet. 7) When the wax is dry, buff off Wax with a clean microfiber towel using a circular motion. ? Finish "buff" the glass using a fresh, clean finishing microfiber towel. Use circular motions, followed by up & down parrern to finish. 9) Finally finish by cleaning the wiper blades using Windex and a microfiber towel. Follow this by applying a coating of 303 Protectant. Spray on, leave set, and wipe excess off with microfiber towel. First time I did this, windshield lasted for several months. Wiper blades on fifth year. Glass is super clear. In cleaning the inside, I've used this method: 1) Apply some rubbing alcohol on a microfiber towel and wipe the inside of the windshield in a circular motion, to remove any grease, oil or polymers from the glass. (The problem with the inside windshield is that it's coated with polymers evaporating off of the instrument cluster and interior). 2) spray Windex on another microfiber towel (not on the glass) and wipe in a circular motion. 3) using another microfiber towel completely dry glass. Overwipe to remove all traces of the glass cleaner.

Ever get this fixed? Why not just clean the throttle body? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BPMCNMA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_13WS4TTAH4PFJ2S03BGA

Do you have All Wheel Drive?

Disconnecting the battery resets all of the memories in the modules. They should relearn their settings in 100 miles. As you posted this 3 weeks ago, they should all have reset by now. Are you still having the problem?

You get yours done yet? They're telling me no parts yet.

you're in line at your favorite Starbucks to get a grande, Java Chip Frappuccino, with extra Java Chips; behind a horse & buggy.

Someone in another forum thought road grime (oil getting on windshield) was responsible for making to wipers too sensitive. Can always just turn them down to low setting when it happens. Don't have them on my 09 MKX. Rain on windshield, pull stalk, done.

OK gen 1 features here ... 1-rain sensing wipers: rain on windshield, click, wipe. Done. 2-auto high beam: no problem, I drive with my high beams always on. Oncoming drivers flash, click, low beams. 3-adaptive cruise control: get too close, hit - del and slow down. Don't need a computer telling me how close to follow. I'm old, I leave 1/4 mile clearance just to be safe. Until some prick tries to get between me and the car ahead. Then it's war. 4-self parking: works ok inasmuch as I'm the self. In high school they taught us to parallel park on a hill. 5-Sync, can't remember the commands and syntax. Glad they used knobs and switches. Not a fan of display menus. Have to take eyes off road too much. 6-Adaptive headlights, love em 7-AdvanceTrec, good in winter, but extends stopping distance 8-heated/cooled seats, yes, yes, yes 9-autopilot advanced driver-assistance system, doesn't work very well in gen-1, constantly have to monitor and correct, makes it difficult to watch a movie on long trip. 10-automatic vehicle restructuring, you know, when the car's computers decide that your seat would be better if it automatically reset itself all the way forward, or how much fun it would be it the engine were set into limp mode and you can only drive at 20 mph, or it turns on the service engine soon light and invents a bigus code just to screw with the technician.

Nothing so far on my 2009 MKX. (Northern Indiana, where the use salt on the roads in summer, just because).

How old is the vehicle battery?

sync: "nu yourk? Is that correct"? me: "no. boston" sync: "nuo yok. Is that correct"? me: "no, tangier island" sync: "tngglerilnad. Izthatcurret"? me: "cancel" sync: "thank you for using sync. and now a word from our sponsor, the Medicare Advantage Hotline with Joe Namath ...."

2nd on Cerberus suggestion about battery. I'd be willing to bet your battery is shot. Doubt the pizza bag is causing unless you run it when cat is off. (In 1st gen the power sockets are hot when car off. Rated at 15 amps. Heavy draw on battery can damage battery). When engine running, actuator should be able to compensate.