enigma-2

There's a simpler way to keep the lights off with the cargo hatch open. Open the hatch, trip the latch with a ball pen or whatever. Car will think the hatch is closed a day turn off the lights. (Remember to trip it back on before closing).

Must have taken the day off.

The op stated he used 22 ga wire. Note that SAE 22 ga wire is rated at 0.92 amps. (Can go higher, 1.5 a depending on temperature rating. If not marked on wire, assume lowest rating). Nonetheless its dangerous. The wire used must be rated at whatever the branch circuitry is rated. IE if the fuse is rated at 7 amps, all wire in the circuit must be rated to carry 7 amps. (If a short occurs, the wire will be exposed to the full rating of the branch circuit, {which is the rating of the overcurrent device}, before the fuse blows). The problem isn't if the fuse blows, but if it doesn't, as in a partial short fault and only draws 6 a. The fuse doesn't blow, but the insulation melts causing sparking and/or fire.

I came across this site, seems to describe the front location. (They say there's no location on the rear, perhaps the tow hitch?). Anyway https://www.lombardfordaccessories.com/ford/edge/product.cfm?productID=60838674 The hook location is always off-center, behind the cars main rail (for strength). Look where the structural main rail reaches the front of the car. Any screw hole for a toe hook will be drilled onto this member.

Did you go down to the parts diagram?

Something like this? (I haven't used this brand, but have had some success with a different brand years ago). https://www.amazon.com/yourself-ATG-treatment-maintenance-professional/dp/B005NHPTOM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=114318597815&gclid=CjwKCAiAxJSPBhAoEiwAeO_fP4hHw-Pp1lv0tm789vKoDo4lOXD1-XL515l-L0dve3LmmtXjClz2BxoCB44QAvD_BwE&hvadid=483087459759&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9016241&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7073045929388225664&hvtargid=kwd-506626136566&hydadcr=24475_9910919&keywords=automotive+plastic+repair+kit&qid=1642468225&sr=8-5

This is the lem version. Click on the diagram for where to attach. https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford_2019_Edge-SEL-Sport-Utility/Tow-Hook/64837609/EM2Z17A954A.html

This site may help you get started. Skip down to systems with glass. https://www.etrailer.com/roof-2016_Ford_Edge.htm?style=with+glass+roof Accessories for canoe: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Watersport_Carriers-sf-Canoe.aspx

Dealer under warranty should have been your first stop.

Based on your description, it almost sounds like someone stold your catalytic converter.

Whenever I run across an aftermarket part, I usually check with what others write about the product. I focus on 1-star write-ups as the 5-star are often either the seller or purchasers who have been given the product for free or reduced price for a five star write-up. (I've been offered a reduced price of 50% for a 5-star write-up on Amazon). That being said, here's what one user has to say about a stubby he purchased: I replaced the OEM antenna from my Mazda tribute with this one since I don't like the long original one, It's small, esthetic, easy to install but that's it, the signal dropped at least 70% but it's not a big deal for me because I am not a radio "consumer". Overall if you want something small and nice this one is ok for you. Many 1-star write-ups stated they bought for ascetic and not performance. There are dozens of stubbys for sale on Amazon. Make certain you read the user reviews for the one you sect before buying. Most are junk - a hunk of cheap plastic with a piece if wire stuck in it. I would expect that the OEM has a bottom loaded coil built into it (makes it appear as a longer wire to the coming signal). For reference, you can buy an aftermarket unit that matches OEM specifications for under $8. https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/AC/24000-07539889.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=TS&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=2007-2015+Ford+Edge+Antenna+Mast+SKP+07-15+Ford+Antenna+Mast+2009+2010&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=833361262770%3A%3Apla-833361262770&kid=833361262770&gclid=CjwKCAiA_omPBhBBEiwAcg7smeA0bShu9Inffv0C3h36V_9Ms31y5MDEMP7mV7GICbzHKyuAjPbJtBoCmVMQAvD_BwE

Nope. Edge pox.

My 09 used to do the same thing, pop when backing up first thing. Clunk actually. Took it to garage and they greased them. Rust or corrosion was preventing parts from moving until I backed up. (Never really explained exactly what they greased. They didn't bill me so I didn't ask.)

https://help.ford.com/update-sync/

We're good with that as well... but be advised you're going to be sleeping in a car back seat for the rest of the year, if you do.

? tiny bubbles ? on the car, makes me happy, ? maks meee fee'll finine.

Meant it to read power "seat-backs". I didn't remember the Edge offering power seat-backs. Only the Lincoln offered power seat-backs. Lincoln had 10-way front seats, Ford had 6-way power seats. Speaking of back seats, I can live with manual fold up rear seats, I wish they had designed them to lay flat (like in the Navigator).

My 2009 MKX has 10-way front seats. I believe you would have to upgrade to Lincoln to get power seat backs.

Whine, whine, whine. Back in the day, ... my 09 MKX has a solid, plastic sheet that's installed with cables and hooks and hold down straps. Pulled tight with a come-along and bolted to the headrests. Bunch of pussies. ?

Is the cargo light LEDs part of the ambient lights? Other than that, I can't see any reason for having so many supply conductors.

I remember reading over on the 150 forum where they found a bad connection at the connector (probably corrosion). Several others either replaced or had replaced the camera itself. Ebay sells aftermarket cameras for around $70.

Duck tape .... ?

FilterMag??? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OJCIMO/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_ZVPGPN8KFGYEBFD4ZSXR

Could always use a filter magnet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016H588VE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QH96469HJFH8A4YHKY79?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If you replace the single horn with a dual, do you also have to install a relay? In the past, cars with one horn didn't use a relay, but wired direct. And if they did use a relay, do you have to replace the relay with one to handle the additional current? I see where FIAMM makes a dual horn replacment kit (for cars with a single horn. There's a YouTube video on how to replace using their kit). The kit number is 7250722.