enigma-2

Scotty's opinion. Consumer Reports ChrisFix Dyno testing by Shell oil company (~4% higher cylinder pressure due to ignition timing). Graphs, explanations. Crypto (reg vs prem with tune) Oh, oh, wife yelling. Gotta take the trash out. Enjoy the videos.

Ummm, I would have thought that the Canadian Car and Truck Institute Laboratory would have been ably to run a simple dynamic test. Especially when the their representative had 20 years experience. Can't trust anybody anymore.

Just curious, did you buy them for practical (smoking, etc.) or aesthetic reasons? Do you like them?

There are dozens of YouTube videos discussing the comparison of regular vs. premium. This video is about average, the test the same car in a major, Canadian testing laboratory changing only the gas used. As expected, the milage is the same (compensated by the PCM) and shows premium has slightly higher pollutants (slightly higher amount of unburnt hydrocarbons). Premium really only makes sense in very hot, dry areas (desert where the air isn't very dense) or towing heavy loads. Otherwise it's just an extra $10 per fillup down the drain.

When they replaced the rear end, did they replace all of it or reuse parts, such as bearings, etc.?

AWD or FWD?

Does the car have manual or automatic temperature controls?

Does it still do it when decelerating from 40 mph with the transmission in neutral?

https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/drive-train/diagnosing-differential-noise/#:~:text=A “whirring” noise while decelerating,bad ring and Pinion gear.

This is the recall you're probably thinking of https://www.mcdavidford.com/door-latch-recall.htm Theres no recall on the switch failure that I'm aware of. Youtube has videos showing how to replace it yourself.

I had my 2009 mkx replaced in 2018 (under extended warranty). There is no recall that I'm aware of. It's probably not the case that leaking but the rear seal. (I had the seal replaced in 2015).

Have you thought of just having the drivers bottom recovered? You can sometimes find replacement OEM covers on ebay (example) https://www.ebay.com/itm/FACTORY-OEM-ORIGINAL-CLOTH-REPLACEMENT-SEAT-COVERS-2015-2016-2017-2018-FORD-EDGE-/294104417909?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 but if it were me I'd talk to your dealer as yours is quite specific. Ask who they would recommend in the area.

Did you check the fuse? Think it's #18 in the engine fuse compartment. Also read this pdf: 2010 Edge Blower Motor Inoperative or Does Not Work Correctly EMTC and DATC(2).pdf

This may be what you're looking for (I haven't verified this myself, but easy enough to check). https://itstillruns.com/adjust-height-brake-pedal-7350182.html

Here's another thread that may help https://www.fordescape.org/threads/2-0-ecoboost-model-number-etc.64673/

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.... oh, we understand. We say if its too tight, just open the roof and stick the top of your head out. heh, heh, heh, heh ... (evil voice)

Q. Did you ever voice train your sync system so that it recognizes your particular voice pattern? Here's how to do it: Press voice button on steering wheel Boing "please say a command" Say "tutorial " It will run through three lessons, having you speak different words to memorize your voice patterns. After this, see if the system doesn't recognize your "Bloetooth" command. (Sorry, couldn't help it. lol). As far as the phone, every so often my phone disconnects as well. Never spent any time trying to figure it out, assumed it was related to an upgrade the night before. (Seems to happen after certain upgrades). I just reconnect, no biggie.

Ask the car wash for a copy of the video. Sounds like you're ok now, but she may decide to delay and then twist the truth after the video is erased. Sorry this happened to you.

Oh dear God, you didn't start this all over again, did you? OK, as much fun as which oil is better discussionis to get involved with, someone in a post some time ago, told me that my oil tester was garbage and the only real way to check oil is to pay the $28 and send a sample to Blackstone Labs for testing. No argument there, of course, the tester is only used to check the condition of the oil and determine when best to change. But it can't tell exactly what's going on in the engine. Blackstone Labs can. And in the course of research, I ran across a YouTube video from Ryan Stark of Blackstone Labs (the guy is really does know what he's talking about. From thousands of lab testing). In the video he shows how they analyze the oil to determine exactly whats going on inside the engine, and, if synthetic is better than Dino juice in regular engines and turbos. Which brand is best? Is the cheap stuff at Walmart or Amazon any good. Which brand of Synthetic is best? Surprising answers to all the oil questions. Very surprising. Watch the video and be prepared for a closed book exam next week. I'll be asking 25 questions. Things related to oil, such as what's your credit card number, what's the best Medicare Advantage plan for you, etc. enjoy ...

Q. How long did you leave the battery disconnected? Minimum is 10 minutes (to allow the electrolytics to fully discharge and reset the system).

I was curious if anyone had any ideas. (It really requires a lot of circuit isolation to narrow down where the fault lies). My advice would have been to take it to the dealer or your mechanic. Were you able to get it fixed?

Be safe. Write the people you bought the tune from and send along a copy of the jpeg so they know exactly what you need.

Powertrain is an extended warranty that covers anything that makes the car go. Warranty is in effect for 6 years, 60,000 miles. Void if you modified the vehicle or failed to provide proper maintenance. The center support bearing is included.

Just a guess, but running out of gas creates a couple of problems. One is that you've drawn air into the system. The other is that you've sucked up all kinds of crud at the bottom of the tank and clogged the filter (common on older cars). If the filter is clogged, you'll need to pull the fuel pump and replace the filter. Couple of ideas to try, 1) turn the car "on" but not to start. This runs the fuel pump (without discharging the battery too badly). Let it run for a minute or two (precharges the fuel system) then 2) press the accelerator 1/2 down (activates the injectors sooner) and try cranking.