enigma-2

Try a radio reset.

My initial guess is that one or more of the sensors either has corrosion in its connector, or, has become misaligned due to backing into an obstacle. More advanced troubleshooting requires pulling the codes as there are three or four modules involved in the circuit.

Tirerack.com is one of the goto places for tires and aftermarket wheels. One nice feature is, after you input your vehicle, it selects only the tires or wheels that are designiled to fit your particular car, and once you find a wheel that looks interesting, click on the "VIEW ON VEHICLE" link to see exactly what that wheel will look like on your car. (You may need to change the cars color in the photo to get an accurate picture). https://m.tirerack.com/content/tirerack/mobile/en/wheels.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwudb3BRC9ARIsAEa-vUvEFVpvBKdt8ccK1wM6RL6pZVtnCYHa9l9hBuevwZbJWwxW3k5XiEEaAtQBEALw_wcB&ef_id=Cj0KCQjwudb3BRC9ARIsAEa-vUvEFVpvBKdt8ccK1wM6RL6pZVtnCYHa9l9hBuevwZbJWwxW3k5XiEEaAtQBEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!315872893334!e!!g!!tirerack.com wheels&gclsrc=aw.ds

Because this was not the native system to your car, it could be a host of items. I'd begin by trying a master reset or a SYNC 3 reset. For th he Master Reset: Start by pressing the PHONE hard button, then choose the SETTINGS tab, select ADVANCED and select MASTER RESET from the menu. Press YES to confirm and the system will reset. For the SYNC 3 reset: select the radio. Then hold in the POWER button (center of the control knob) and the RIGHT SEEK button at the same time. Hold for at least 5 seconds until the display indicates that SYNC is resetting. Question. How did you reprogram the nav system to your VIN?

They are made as a single unit. My 09 came with standard mirrors. They didn't come out with the mirrors with the wide angle inserts until mid year. I bought replacment mirrors and installed on both right and left mirrors. Huge improvement over standard mirrors. Show cars in blind spot. Easy to change out.

Ever figure this out?

Try this site to start. https://www.floodfordesp.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwrcH3BRApEiwAxjdPTY1rECwKEG1sBBXoNDidk5KWwRDk5FWxTo2az7w9AtRfgwOIBWAX4xoCV3cQAvD_BwE I got three quotes before I got mine. Took them to the business manager of my local dealer, let him go through the various plans, got his quote, then chose the best plans and asked if he would match. He never blinked. Matched. Then I asked what else he would do to better the offer. He offered $0 deductible if I had all my warranty service done at their dealership. I agreed. No up charge for the zero deductible. ($100 if I have serviced at any other dealer). If it's any consolation, I have a 2009 MKX and my current warranty expires in 2023. ! Full bumper-to-bumper coverage. (But it will be my last renewal due to age and mileage - snif). So yes, you can get an extended warranty with no problem. Just had my car in for a new valve core replacment on my spare tire. As they did a "courtesy" inspection on the entire car (generates more work of course), I was able to use that visit for the mandatory inspection. Otherwise it's usually $100. Just schedule the purchase of the extended warranty while your getting an oil change. The kind that has tire rotation and whatnot. They do an inspection on the car as a "courtesy" (wink, wink) and you can use that inspection in liew of paying the extra $100. Work it out with the business manager before you sign. On my last three year warranty I was able to use it for all kinds of weird stuff, like getting the lumbar seat mechanism replaced (they have to take the seat out and tear the whole seat apart to replace the entire mechanism. Care to guess how much something silly like that costs? And they found black goo belching from my PTU vent. The warranty covered a new PTU. And that costs a shit-load of cash. Think I used it 5 times. Got a new loaner whenever they had to keep it overnight (except one time when a loaners are out, then they got me a rental from local Enterprise. Got a new F150. And finally, as it's a Lincoln, abet an old one, I get a car wash whenever I have it serviced. And had a flat when I hit a curb and blew a tire. Called Lincoln and they sent out a tow truck and he changed the tire for me. In the rain. All part of the warranty. I'll tell you, when you get older, (I'm in my 70's) changing a tire, at night, in the rain, is a daunting task. Ever notice how heavy a 20" tire is? Nice to call and have someone else do it. Or they will bring you gas should you run out. Or jump your battery if it fails. This time I'm watching to see if the water pump starts leaking. I'm guessing that it's nearing its end of life. Figure that's about $1400 - $1600 (priced a year or two ago, may be more now, seems like everything has gotten more expensive do to COVID-19) and would love to get it changed under warranty. (Dealer drops the engine to change them. Faster, but costs a little more). Biggest fear is it blows while on highway and burns up the engine. So what's a rebuilt engine go for nowadays? Just today noticed my wife is having problems with the passenger seat. It stopped working in the reclining position. Got it working again, but if it does it again - poof, off it goes for a new mechanism.

If you have the 6-way seat: There are 3 motors, front height, rear height and horizontal. The way it works is, each motor has two terminals. Apply negitive power to terminal 1, positive to terminal 2 and the motor runs up or forward. Reverse the solitary and the motors run down or back. Drivers seat switch assembly terminals are as follows: #6 is front down #18 is front up #15 is aft #16 is forward #5 is rear down #17 is rear up If you have the 10-way power seat, there are 5 motors. The additional two motors control the seat backrest position and the lumbar. They all run the same. Apply 12 volts (-) to one terminal and (+) to the other. Reverse polarity to reverse position. Terminal assignment for PASSENGER switch is: #6 front up #2 front down #4 fwd #9 aft #12 rear down #1 rear up #11 backrest fwd #8 backrest aft #7 lumbar out #10 lumbar in (Dont have drivers). All you need is a 12 volt source and DPDT (double pole, double throw) momentary switches. I'd look for switches rated at 15 amps, 120 volts. (12 volt rated switches will also work of course). If the seat came from a vehicle which had the memory seat function, it becomes much more complicated. (For more complicated than I care to get into here. Even the motors are different).

When I bought my 2009, one of the items listed on the placard was a "theft recovery system". I've never subscribed to this service (never even noticed it up to now). Wondering if anyone else had this Ford/Lincoln option installed? As I understand it, the hardware is (was) around $700 to $1200 (includes first year subscription). I've read that it operates like GM's On-Star system (connects to the internet through a cellular network). Provides location like a lojack and can unlock doors remotely, etc. Introduced in 2008. My question is, where does the hardware mount? (I'd like to check to see if it's still installed). And if anyone is using this SmartAlert system, what's the yearly subscription cost? This page offers more information: https://www.autoweek.com/news/a2035771/ford-adds-tracking-service-find-stolen-vehicles/

If it occurs with just over the air reception, its probably do to signal strength rising and falling. (Not the greatest antenna on modern cars). If CD or DVD, only thing that comes to mind is fingerprints on the disk or run a cleaner disk through the machine to clean the pickup lens.

One item I would consider is, if your buying directly from a Ford dealer, have the car certified as part of the deal. https://www.autotrader.com/car-shopping/cpo-program-review-ford-238901 Also ask for updated navigation maps and Sync 3 upgrade to latest. Always try to get a used car history report. If you have the VIN enter it here to do a quick search. https://www.vinhistoryusa.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoaz3BRDnARIsAF1RfLdEpMGef5_k-LxDmCMHIPBxBYJqhNj5oltKIsX6ZUFxUih2BjXt5vQaAj_WEALw_wcB Take a good look at the tires. It's common for dealers to throw on {{{cheap}}} aftermarket tires. Looks good on the lot but nothing but headaches after you start driving. If the car still has the OEM, consider how many miles left before you will need to replace. Battery could be nearing end of life. Having a load test (using a tester that can read the CCA value - not just voltage) will give you a good idea if it will need replacing in a short time or good for another year. If this is your dream car, offer 5% under what they have it priced at. (Dealers commonly drop the price by 5% after the first 30 days. It's all about turnover.)

Great post! Thanks for posting.

Maybe sumlin along these lines work?

COPSUCK dare ya ...

Yes, a failed rear axle differential will cause the PTU to fail. The PTU drives the rear differential. Any binding or resistance will put tremendous load on the PTU. However this is the first I've read of anyone reporting their differential failing. The PTU in the 1st gen MKX's and Edges certainly have a history of failures. Mine failed at 193k if I remember correctly), and was replaced under warranty. But I've never had any problems with the rear differential. Wonder what caused it to fail. My sympathy on the very bad luck you had on yours. The good news is, after you get by this you'll have a great car.

SirusXM Willie's Roadhouse 60's on 6 50's on 5

Latest recall from DOT. Yokohama Tire Corporation (Yokohama Tire) is recalling certain Yokohama RY023 tires, size 255/70R22.5 16H (DOT date code 0320 and 0520 through 0620), RY023 tires, size 295/75R22.5 16H (DOT date codes 0320 through 0520), RY023 tires, size 285/75R24.5 14G (DOT date codes 0320 and 0520), RY617 tires, size 11R22.5 16H (DOT date code 0320), RY617 tires, size 11R24.5 16H (DOT date codes 0220 and 0420 through 0620), TY517 MC2 tires, size 295/75R22.5 14G (DOT date codes 0220 through 0620), TY517 MC2 tires, size 285/75R24.5 14G (DOT date codes 0420 through 0620), TY517 MC2 tires, size 11R22.5 16H (DOT date codes 0320 through 0620), TY527 tires, size 11R24.5 16H (DOT date code 0520), 712L tires, size 295/75R22.5 16H (DOT date codes 0420 through 0620), 712L tires, size 11R22.5 16H (DOT date codes 0620 and 0320 through 0420), 709ZL tires, size 285/75R24.5 14G (DOT date code 0420), 709ZL tires, size 11R24.5 14G (DOT date code 0220), LY053 tires, size 11R24.5 16H (DOT date codes 0320 through 0620), 109L tires, size 11R22.5 14G (DOT date codes 0220 and 0420 through 0620), 109L tires, size 285/75R24.5 14G (DOT date codes 0620 and 0320 through 0420), 109L tires, size 295/75R22.5 14G (DOT date code 0420), 108R tires, size 11R24.5 16H (DOT date codes 0320 and 0620), and 715R tires, size 295/75R22.5 16H (DOT date codes 0320 through 0420). Due to improper manufacturing, the tires tread or bead may detach, possibly resulting in loss of vehicle control. As such, these tires fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 119, "New Pneumatic Tires - Other than Passenger Cars." A sudden loss of vehicle control increases the risk of a crash. Yokohama will notify owners, and dealers will replace the tires, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin March 31, 2020. Owners may contact Yokohama customer service at 1-800-423-4544.

This video gives several examples of how to spot fake Chinese Motorcraft parts, such as spark plugs and ignition coils. Appearently anything sold on Ebay and several vendors on Amazon are selling close copies of Motorcraft parts. Includes filters and ignition parts (common replacment parts). Don't Get Burned Buying Counterfeit Ford Motorcraft Parts! By Ford TechMakuloco https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OpDJNDb6b9A&feature=youtu.be

Deleted, duplicate

This recall is probably NOT applicable to the Edge/MKX vehicles. Michelin North America, Inc. (Michelin) is recalling certain CrossClimate+ tires in size 225/60R16 103V XL tires with DOT date code 4618. https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

Its below freezing here, and besides ..... I've gotten (retirement) lazy. Anddddddd, the MLX made me pull in Had no say over it. It pulled in all by itself. (honestly!)

I watched about a couple of dozen videos for my headlights. Finally settled on this one as I've found Scottie to be dead on and I trust Meguiar's products. He uses Meguiar's Headlight polish to clean fogged plastic and Meguiar's Headlight Coating to coat the plastic 2x year. (Only had the Meguiar's on for about 6 months so far, but am expecting good results). The important thing to remember is to reapply the coating at least annually. Semiannually in the southern states. More sun damage. There are several videos pushing clear coat paint, but it was never made for this application. Would not trust it to last but a year (sunbelt) or two (northern areas). The coating the lens manufacturers use is a special paint, baked on using UV light. They make this for consumer use, but your still not going to get any more than the OEM guys get. (But you can get lifetime clear if you use a protectant annually). I've also used 303 Protectant and found the headlights don't fog. I also use it on my wiper blades. Fourth year on MKX blades, five on the convertible. Still soft and pliable. (I also use it on ALL of my outdoor plastic items and they have never faded). https://youtu.be/E9NP0_nF2ak

Car wash. Ultimate with $3 discount coupon. Soap and water rinse. Sealer wax and rim cleaner. Triple foam and tire shine. Simoniz hot wax and Lava foam. Rain X and Dragon dry. Done. On to the Chinese restaurant.

My initial guess is something similar to the "plastic steel" putty marketed by Devcon. It's a mix of epoxy and metal particles. One concern is that plastic expands and contracts more than the OEM shield and may require better fasteners. (Even the stock fasteners have proven problematic. If it were me, I would run with the existing panels and replace only when they were near failure. If they hold up, all the better. If not, it's what you were considering anyway.