garycrist

I have found Italian coins, a wine bottle or two in new Fiats doing PDIs back around 1973.

On RDU failure. It looks like the pinion bearings are failing due to fluid break-down due to excessive heat. It is tough to figure out if they do light weight fluids for EPA crap. Bearing clearance on rotating parts has not changed. Clutch pack clearances are the same. Hence, the tighter clearances B.S. that is fed to us, is not a starter nor valid! Before the recent push to maximize fuel economy, lower emissions especially CO2, a heavier weight differential fluid ie. 75-140 etc. was called for for heavy duty service or towing. Remember, Domestic manufactures sell new vehicles. The faster your new pride and joy wears out, the faster the bastards can sell you a new one. r

Almost like your carburetor is out is out of oil. (MG, Datsun etc. w/ oil dampened slides)

Back a long time ago, we would sub thinner type f for Type A for harder faster shifts. The LV will shift softer read slip the clutches and add heat. It could void the warranty too.

You can't fix electroplating! This is why there are + ground systems.

NEVER!!! Everything except the brake pads and tires and wiper bladesare OE on the 08 Edge!

Disc Brake squeal lets one know the brakes are working and there is no charge for those features. (joke)

You might look at the battery terminals replace as nessary. A bad chassis ground or the PLUS side of the battery to the power distribution box would cause the problem you described. Those originate at the battery in most cases. Your charging system appears to good, according to your readings. As a side note, take your high RPM readings with ALL of the electrical load. A/C on ,fan on high, bright lights, etc. or 1/2 volt or so above the resting voltage about 12.8 volts.

I would search for a loose/bad ground.

@razziel24 it looks great. The work you did might not please all but, if you like it, it is great.

I used to keep a supply of window/door switches in my tool box. The first thing I would do was to substitute my switch for theirs. The window motors on the rear doors, would "weld" the brushes to the armature and lock-up. So, exercise those rear windows from time to time to prevent that problem.

If your fuel additive does not have PEA in it, your, shall we say, "urinating into the wind". As far as oil, I would point you to Lake Speed jr.'s video on Valvoline's Protect and Restore engine oil. To go deeper, find his comparisons of oil tests too. Did not realize there was a pun till I proof read it.

Get the poly hockey pucks that fit your jack/stand. ONLY jack at the spots in the owner's manual.

I have 285 35 22s on my ST. Check out my "Black Mamba" in my profile.

What brand of tires and what is the DOT code on the tire? It appears so one likes to drive what some would consider a little "sporty". The shoulder wear (both sides) indicates where the steel belt ends. If it was a toe problem, the edges of all of the tread blocks would have a feathered edge on one side. But, the pics indicate small chunks are being shed while at high steering angles. In the top image it appears that a little extra wear is indicated by the right side being a little more worn than the left. That would indicate about half a degree of extra camber to that side, providing that is about 12 K miles in normal conditions on that tire. Gary

I think he is referring to Lane Keeping. I have turned it off because I drive the car, not the computer.

@Davidoo, I also have a 22 ST too. As you stated confusion exists but I will help you. Our RDUs have a drain plug and a fill plug and the tranny has a drain and fill plug too. AS for no lift, I used 4 ramps https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11912-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramps/dp/B0117EESNC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=R9MRLD01WYW4&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4okd22uK9UE4fyiUUj08Slo6FXaiQHl7CDfDtOe6sUfcGRBJAgsX8MqPngrm9kJj4_3k1CFA6Tj8lj_S6e8kSUuSTfKfL3gifNAavPsy5QjQ8d7glVtjxGhLRXcCP5xovssfsIUDvyJ4RNRBKRRV7a7v0DqBTpW18rGk--538kcq-1PGrilqWVhHZfyIYVigRFrCLV_D8o756fLxqh10yHiJWildoqkhEio7Lu-oe1u3RCq-jffBN70GoWrpAU-YpLRZ3mWX2xMWnG01UCtJdanexSTKHq_awTxbnnfHug7tSZt43yLO8t8X8Ox5CDqcKOvO3NIVLqVk2cWpT9jm35ooQ3sB5zbEurysBH27zblI8fy18LW8xriFy3MuRQUnoUYKv5_n5Y_OVCdb9bA4TuXlUaXChZ9w9mkW_Dcj7k6KTmg84ncSQ3S2RLWiyFHr.ey3DhlG06_05QhLU4ioQXHO0ZfYSV2WxTZ0qQ3m43Lg&dib_tag=se&keywords=drive%2Bup%2Bramps&qid=1742655930&sprefix=drive%2Bup%2Bramps%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-4&th=1 to do all my service on a creeper to boot!

My 1st. plan expires @75K miles/ 2028. I just did a RDU service and discovered metallic glitteries! I am not as mobile as I once was. Do we keep the problem and extend the ESP or swap it out for an Exploder ST? I contact my guy with my wallet wide open! He told me keep your $$$ till 73K miles or 6 months before expiration date to renew. Hang onto your money!!! After that experience as well as other folks experience, I why people from across the US do some driving. GL

On my 2008 Edge 3.5L, I replace the spark plugs about every 75K miles. 210K miles now and I should inspect the OE belts.🤣🤣

What I could hear, it sounds like a heat shield buzzing.

Don't believe anything a salesman tells you! Your battery needs to be replaced. I have the same issue and I am waiting to get into the dealership for that and some other issues. The new Edges have a "gas saving " feature that only charges an AGM battery so far. As a side note, it seems that a bunch of AGM batteries in 2022 were defective.

Hate to tell you this but, sounds like a U-Joint or the Carrier bearing. Look closely at the u-joint's cups to see if any rust is evident. If so, that is what is left of the rollers due to "Fretting Corrosion". Also it is the "Down Fall" and the waster of several hours of grief, "It could not be _________ as it is new part"! If you decide to do the u-joints, spray paint the parts so you assemble them back in the same position. Even some times this does not work and a vibration is induced. Sometimes it can be fixed by rotating the assembly 180 degrees. Else the drive shaft shop. (do they still exist)? GL

I see this an old thread but, a continuing problem for some as well as someone's future. Water on the heater core is causing this problem. So, typically,the heater core is leaking or the A/C drain is plugged up. Water intrusion from a puddle or rain, might enter via the A/C or heater lines entry points of the Firewall.(Rare) Last but not least the A/C drain lines. If it is the Heater Core the fog on the windows will taste sweet else it's the drain line probably. GL Gary

That is a SHARP color!

Check the anti-rattle clips and/or pad shims. The "hum noise" you hear is the pad "rattling" from "kick-back" of the pad due to very small high spots on the rotor. In the past, I've cured disc-brake pull as well as noise by switching pads side to side as screwy as that sounds! Re-lube the mounts and refinish the rotors (sand them with a sanding disc) and if all fails, change to a different pad material. Sometimes the combination of parts do not favor a driver.