1004ron

Keen to hear how the new style works for you. BTW, I have a new spare which I haven't had the need to use because the original is still working perfectly with 116K on the clock.

Looks like my turn to put the useful posts above to good use. About a week ago my 2017 started having a bad image with fluttering noise when I backed out my garage and then when I arrive at work it would be fine and when leaving work it would be fine - an intermittent issue which usually occurs the first time its used in the mornings. I'm suspecting a bad connection so I'll pull the covers off and inspect connectors and add dielectric grease where needed, and search for moisture ingress - if all that fails I'll look at a replacement camera.

You may find a few other code readers capable of clearing the codes - Forscan and Forscan Lite will clear the codes.

I switched my 2017 Sport to AGM and used Forscan to configure it for the new battery type and size and also reset the battery life monitor - mine is working faultlessly. Not sure if it's the same for a 2014 but expect it is. Jerru stop in at a place like AutoZone and they can test the battery and charging system free of charge. Also scan for codes.

Welcome. What model and year is your Edge? Whatever you do, don't use a 3rd Party Non-OEM assembly.

What you using to read codes?

I can't connect at work but did hear somewhere that the Android version is no longer available - there might be other sites with copies. forscan.org https://forscan.org/home.html FORScan/FORScan LITE Class and Q&A - Page 8 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums FORScan Lite Android Google Play Version - Error - General Ford Related Discussions - Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums .

My Google search results advise against changing viscosity - I would not experiment with it.

Just checked on Apple Store and it's still showing available for download.

BUMP

I have something similar which I haven't yet resolved, except mine is the opposite - I get the shake/wobble when accelerating at speeds 55 to 65 mph. When accelerating and decelerating the drive applies forces on the toe - accelerating tends to toe-in and decelerating toe-out. Possible causes are as @enigma-2 stated and inner/outer tie rod ends.

Going for a record............

What brand of fans and controller are you using?

Today I got it on four ramps and with the engine running had my wife shuffle the steering wheel while I felt every joint and connection and couldn't find a thing. I got one of our GoPro cameras from work thinking that I'd mount it and record the shake but couldn't find a location to mount it. I'm not keen to start throwing parts at it so I'll wait until I get a set of new tires and then take it for alignment, which should be in about 5 to 10K miles (2 to 3 months).

The standard devices like that are notorious for not actually being able to read the codes - best get a free copy of FORscanLite and read codes.

What are you using to read/scan for codes?

@omar302 are you a surgeon that performs those intricate keyhole procedures? With the assy's installed I removed the bulb from the left side then for the right side I shifted the coolant reservoir to out the way but then hit a snag - I couldn't pull the bulb and then disconnect it because its cable was entangled with the few small gauge wires inside the assembly. On that one I pulled the ballast and rerouted the wire enabling it to be disconnected/connected with the bulb outside the housing. I looked at the many lower priced options but decided I'd go with something that is more likely to last as long as the original.

Getting ready for the delivery of the new HID's I started the job. The only way to do this without damage is to remove the headlamp assemblies - its way too finicky to seat the HID with the headlamp assy's installed in the car. The tabs rotate about a 1/4 turn counter-clock to release. I was concerned that it might be a ballast issue to switched the globes and the orange one moved to the other side - both high and low beam is orange.

@Haz Special request - how do I release the these HID's? I see a black plastic tab that I expect needs to be rotated, but didn't want to apply too much force.

Any codes?

Ordered these: Osram Xenarc Night Breaker 220, D3S, +220% More Brightness, Xenon Headlight Bulb, 66340XN2-2HB, Folding Box (2 Lamps)

When backing out my garage this morning I notice one of my headlights was orange. Surprised - I assumed that they would just die, not first change color. Anyone have recommendations on replacements and is the LED version a viable option? LED's typically blind oncoming traffic and unless that's no longer an issue I'll consider them.

One more thing - do I need an inner tie rod tool and if so, which one do you recommend? I have a tool for separating the outer tie rods.

It seems to be just a little worse - at the onset I've tried a lower gear but no change - it can get pretty severe and directly proportional to the torque applied when in the speed range (55 to 65 mph). If I'm steady at around 60 mph and accelerate the shake will start - can actually see the hood shake left to right. After noticing the wear on the inboard edge of the two front tires (see below linked thread) I'm suspecting its tie rods, so this weekend I'll get my wife to assist in jostling the steering wheel while I try to asses which tie rod it is (inner, outer, left, right) I will change both sides but if it's the outer I'll do both outers, unless I find a rubber boot was the root cause I'll rethink the need to do both sides. Now, I'm leaning towards going with Motorcraft unless someone can recommend anything better. In about 15K miles I'll be installing new tires and need this resolved by then.

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