1004ron

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The parts sold on Amazon are sold by Automotive parts dealers, many of them are registered Ford dealerships, so I buy from any place that sells genuine OEM parts at the best price. RockAuto.com isn't always cheaper than Amazon.

I second that - I buy OEM Motorcraft on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WW2755-Wiper-Blade/dp/B01KHL5ZQU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3O5P12LIZ8GZK&dchild=1&keywords=motorcraft+ww2755&qid=1606769830&sprefix=WW2755%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-1

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Welcome - post a few pics. Please add location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Its bugged me since new, and the first vehicle I've had this issue with. I used a can of air to blast them before leaving the car wash and then when I get home I use spray quick detailer to get rid of the water marks down the side of the car. A new car wash opened closer to my home and their air dry nozzles are better so I no longer use the air in a can and just wipe off a few spots when I get home.

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I called and this year they'll not be offering the usual 10% discount, only a T-shirt. Use "vinny5" on checkout for a 5% discount.

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Looks like the previous owner took care of the appearance but not the out of sight servicing - question is what else has suffered from poor servicing. Please add location and Model / Year to your signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I agree, corrosion - obviously poorly maintained. Please add location and Model / Year to your signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Found them - Dorman Part # 800-040 They're white, but are a perfect fit. Dorman - OE Solutions 1/2in Universal Fuel Line Retainer 2 Piece https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-oe-solutions-3387/hardware---fasteners-16585/retaining-clips---connectors-25214/hold-down-clips-clamps-19033/115bcf9d8125/dorman-oe-solutions-universal-fuel-line-retainers/800040/4257314 Its unlikely you'll break this clip - because access is awkward to squeeze/press the retainer inwards, I pulled it out and that's when it broke. While I was at it I found using a long nose pliers to squeeze/press the back of the retainer worked best. qd_catalog_dor231625581 - Updated.pdf

When doing a spark plug replacement I broke the release clip on one of the small air Quick Release Couplings and cant find where to buy a replacement. The connector in question is on the air pipe circled in red in the attached image.

Contact their support -- I also received the email today. Wait until Black Friday when they usual offer a 10% discount.

Yes, the mark-up on the parts and the labor is over the top for something that's a very easy DIY. https://www.carid.com/standard/vapor-canister-purge-solenoid-mpn-cp937.html If you'd gone to Autozone and had the error codes read, and then researched what parts are needed and how to install it. Please consider adding your location and vehicle Model and Year to your signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

I also have the JLT on my Sport which I installed early in its life and recently when I changed spark plugs at 62K miles I looked into the combustion chamber and there was zero fouling, could even read the numbers on the piston crowns - I don't drive hard and use only Costco top tier premium. At the same time I changed the plugs on my wife's 3.7L V6 Mustang and for that you need to remove the intake plenum and it had more oil in it than I like, so next week when JLT have their annual Black Friday 10% discount I'll be getting a catch can for the Mustang. On both vehicles I also installed new PCV valves, just to be sure and they're only $8 each for Motorcraft OEM.

The oil level has no impact on starting the engine, so the fact that it started after adding oil is coincidental. Best take it to a place like Autozone and have them read the stored error codes and post them here. The oil light coming on when the engine stalls is to be expected as the oil pumps stops when the engine stops, so not a pointer to why it stalled.

The A version only came on the market this year or late last year, so likely the ones you used in 2016 did have the black plastic end caps.

The Edge wont shut off when you get out of range of the FOB. You cannot start the Edge without the FOB inside the vehicle, and if the vehicle is already running and the door is closed the horn will honk. I cant be sure, but I doubt the Chevy allows the engine to start without the FOB inside the vehicle, so to me something doesn't sound right about your friends story.

Full synthetic is superior to a blend, and most Ford dealerships will have the option of full synthetic at an additional cost. Check your owners manual and you'll see that Ford Engineers also recommend full synthetic. Bear in mind, all manufacturers advertise the annual maintenance figures, .......any guess how they arrive at the lowest figure?

What year, model, mileage, mileage since last service. The remaining oil life monitor is only a rough estimate and reminder when the oil change is due. I change my oil and filter at 5K mile intervals at which time the remaining oil life indicator is around 50%. Please consider adding location and Model/Year to your signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

The old plugs gap was still spot on at 32 thou, and I checked the new NGK plugs and they were closer to 30 thou and I left them at that - no gapping done. BTW, I also changed the plugs in my wife's NA Mustang 3.7L V6 this weekend using the NGK Ruthenium HX plugs. It has 65K miles on the clock and I'd say that it was due for replacement plugs due the gap growth which is 50 thou to start with new - although it requires removal of the intake air plenum its a much easier job.

Today I decided to install the NGK 95605 Ruthenium HX plugs that I bought recently, .....not because they needed changing at 62K miles, but because I'm a tinkerer and and having the new plugs gave me itchy fingers. Plugs bought from Rockauto.com for $53 shipped. The original plugs would easily be good for 100+K miles and all their gaps were a snug 32 thou. With the plugs out looking down on top of the pistons they are so clean I could read the numbers on their crowns - my Edge only gets Costco Top Tier premium. The job took just over 4 hours, which includes a trip to Lowe's to get additional 1/2" drive socket extensions. The rear plugs are a challenge - I did not remove the air tube coming up from the rear turbo and it would be easier with that out of the way. I removed the flex rubber tube connecting it to the air filter housing and pulled it to left and right to get the two plugs that it obstructs. For the rear plugs you need to secure the plug socket to a 5" extension and once inserted down the tube and onto the plug then place the 2" or 3" extension onto that, and then a ratchet with pivoting head - this is due to the restricted head clearance. Added a little dielectric grease to the rubber ignition coils tubes to prevent them sticking to the porcelain part of the plug. I'm not a good technical author, so feel free to ask questions if you plan on this DIY. Excerpt from the service manual. Ignition Coil-On-Plug.pdf No anti-seize used on the plug threads as per the manufacturers recommendation. https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

Edge Guide any chance that you could assist with this?

Those that have experienced these failures might know better than me, but my wild guess would be the lubricant properties breakdown and cause the mechanical seal to fail, or particulate buildup over time.