1004ron

We looked into that option and we decided against spending >$2K for her town car (we would go with the NAV option which adds $500).

My wife's car is the S550 2015 3.7L V6 with around 60K miles on the clock and we enjoy it very much. Ours is the base model and we have changed the cloth seats to Catzkin leather, no heated seats, and would like the larger screen - we bought ours used, but if we were looking to buy new I'd pay for the higher options.

Reviews , positive and negative, play a role in my product selection, and its pretty easy to spot fake reviews - your negative review will not factor in my decision making. If you could present something meaningful regarding the product discussed in this thread, I might consider. If leaving negative reviews was illegal, as you imply, places like Amazon would not exist, they'd be fighting lawsuits on behalf of all their customers that left negative reviews. Claiming fear of a lawsuit for anonymous criticism on a public forum, is an indication that you really don't have anything meaningful. Summons issued to Mr.IWRBB residing at location/region "Decline".

If you pull off with the steering full lock and it clicks, that's a sign the CV joint is gone - they should last well beyond 100K miles unless the rubber boots have been damaged. Check the the drive shafts for signs of lubricant leakage from the boots.

I used Redline 80W-90 in the RDU Why would you change the oil weight?

Have you taken it back for the dealership to correct?

Reading the thread title the first thing that comes to mind is CV joint, but just for clarity, does this only happen as the steering is rotating, or does it happen when pulling off with the steering at full lock?

I paid Tire Discounters $138 for the installation, balancing and disposal of the old tires. Free wheel alignment check was included - they got it up on the Hunter rig and came to me with the printout showing rear and front toe out by a small fraction (three decimal places) and recommended that I pay the $90 to have it corrected - they weren't impressed when I said no thanks - my tire wear has been perfect and I see no reason to disturb that for 0.002 toe. I've only got 550 miles and happy with the Atturo so far - quiet and good in the wet - I'm not a "spirited" driver, so can't really comment on grip etc.

What pads and rotors do you plan on using?

We're all entitled to our own opinions, right or wrong. I've become familiar with the OP @snmjim on this forum, enough to establish the opinion that he's a suitably qualified and experienced auto enthusiast for me to trust his product opinion and review. This was confirmed by myself when installing the product and after 3 months in service. Come now, you can't hide behind the fear of law suits - you know that there's no way that you're at risk of that on this forum - maybe @akirby and put you at ease, and allow you to explain what you consider bad about this product. What brake kits do you consider better than the Powerstop and cost less?

Take a look at the last post on the first page of this thread.

Very minor irritation - every time I go through the car wash water hangs out in the side mirrors and spits down the side of the vehicle when driving and dribbles down the door when stopped leaving ugly water marks. I reduce the volume of water by pulling to the side at the car wash and using a can of compressed air blast into the mirror. I'm thinking of popping out the puddle lights and checking if I can drill a reasonable drain hole in the underside.

No such issues with mine, and haven't read of any others until this thread, which suggests to me that its not a systemic issue. I'm sure your local dealership will resolve it.

I like the ST, but not enough to trade my Sport on it.

Question asked here - near bottom of page:

I had to search for the use of the word "shilled" and still not sure if its a good or bad thing.

3 Months now with the Power Stop front brake kit and very happy with them - thanks for the heads up @snmjim

The rattling undercarriage has returned, so I'll just look at doing the string wrap again, and repeat it as needed in the future.

SP-542 are hard to find now - although I've got another 50K miles before I change plugs, I'll go with the NGK 95605 Ruthenium HX, unless I can find a good reason why Ford changed to the SP-578

The sensors inside the tires have batteries installed and send a wireless signal to a receiver on the car at set intervals - they remain active when the wheels are off the vehicle. To conserve batteries they only transmit when the wheels rotate.

Don't the wheels need to rotate for the sensors to transmit? Edit: I see your comment that they should be "sleeping" if not rotating.

What type of Performance Parts, that aren't shared with the Sport, did you have in mind?

I pulled one of the front spark plugs and it is in pristine condition and still at the design gap - definitely still good for another 50K miles.

Anyone gone from the SP-542 to the SP-578 which Ford now list for our 2.7's ? https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/spark-plugs-sp578-new-part-number-for-542.139471/ Or is there a better option such as the NGK 95605 which is listed for this engine on RockAuto.com - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9779988&cc=3310415&jsn=1829

Looking at changing my plugs soon, and have the same question.