Cerberus

i mean, thats most of what I have now, but thank you, i went and scanned them for pertinent info for my needs . I was hoping for a single source with all ABT data where you could just select your year & model and have it spit out all ABT data and what conflicts or issues are related to the mod. Kind of a crowd sourced single point of reference WiKi style

Ok, so where is the best & most comprehensive forscan reference for what settings change does what? And interactions between settings? I had remote window close turned on but i lost items on my dash configure menu system.. so some switches turned on also turn off other things.. Who has the master config interaction reference? (yes i had the AsBuilt data and rewrote that all back)

Forscan is very good, very powerful tool to have. Out of left field guess, but the dashboard freak out & violent shut down imply an electrical issue.. hard to even guess what kind of electrical issue.. harness damage that only presents when the drivetrain is torqued out of place from a bad dogbone? Curious to see what kind of codes you come up with given that you seem to be a Ford family, Forscan is a solid investment.

water pump failure would be my first thought. since they are known for having problems, and the motorcraft part has a plastic impeller.. which is garbage. and the bearings fail, ruin the seal etc when filling the cooling system on that engine, it is basically impossible to fill it normally, you need to vacuum fill it otherwise you end up with a big air pocket that cannot be vented imho, stop throwing parts at it. look above and behind the A/C compressor for a stain of coolant running down the block. That will be your tell that te pump is going. and check your oil fill cap. if its milky, you're done. water pump time.

the same thing, you'd have TPMS light on at all times. unless of course you use forscan to turn off the TPMS monitoring/reporting system

Interesting thing, you can alter your target battery charge level in Forscan while you are telling it is an AGM.. and turning off the double beep, and turning on secure idle..

Fair enough, thanks for the information

No, I didn't even think about it. I drive about an hour a day so it has plenty of opportunity for charging. I did butter up the terminals of the new battery with grease to retard any oxidation. The old battery said FoMoCo on it, and battery age was over 2000 days.. so I figure it was due. Plus this past summer I killed it dead by leaving the push button ignition on and the fan running accidentally. Deeply dead. It took power back, but it hurt it.

Ok, that is the opposite of everything I know and have read about lead acid batteries. Lithium ion batteries cycle life is significantly increased by only charging to 80% of full, but lead acid requires top up with equalizing voltage of 14.6 or better at least once a month to avoid early sulfation and loss of capacity. They don't like to be deeply discharged for sure, that ruins them too but they prefer 95% plus charging most of the time, and require top up occasionally.

soo.. i have to ask, since i just installed an AGM H7 with 850CCA, what will change by telling the computer there is a higher CCA and different type battery present? I mean do the charging algorithms change to voltages for bulk charging versus float? Interestingly, my old battery (FoMoCo 590CCA) was either original or the battery life counter was never reset if it was changed.. it showed an age of over 2000 days.. I have not done any playing with editing of data bits with forscan, just data acquisition, so I am leery of changing anything, probably because i'm a virgin.. its always more nerve wracking the first time.

This was very helpful, Thank You I went to Wallyworld and grabbed an AGM H7, shoe horned it in there with a pry bar or two and away we go ?

so I tested my battery again today because its been sounded pretty weak on start up, and the Solar tester result came back at 290CCA.. so its battery time i guess.. interestingly, the start test showed a low of over 10.4 volts which i would think was fine.. charging voltage of just over 15V seems a bit too high to me but what do I know Now i need to find that chart that shows what batteries fit so i can find one

I bought the solar tester.. not sure if i like it or not. i tend to distrust a meter that consistently reports above manufacturer specified.. specification, but it is better than nothing

in theory, the factory PCM part # can be retrieved from Forscan app on the phone.. I'm fairly certain i've seen a listing of module part #s when i was poking around on mine..

mine does..

Not familiar with that term, "over landing"..?

Ok, there's a fair amount or horse shit flying around here.. I have to say, I am dubious / surprised / impressed if true that any mass market production vehicle is performing ignition timing control on each cylinder separately, or even on alternate cylinder banks separately as suggested by the shell pressure test. However, that is still not a great test. Pressure average is not the metric that should be used anyway, what you really want to know is peak cylinder pressure at a specific point (about 6° ATDC iirc) Yes high octane fuel offers more opportunity for more power if utilized correctly. Full disclosure, I could not watch the entire video in some cases because of the annoying drivel factor. And I get it, dumbing shit down for Joe and Jane Consumer is necessary to some degree when dealing with extremely complex subjects, but it's damned annoying to feel like you accidentally got put in a remideal kindergarten class..

Yes, i am aware of this. FWIW I am a lapsed ASE Certified Master Tech. (Never bothered recertifying after the first time because it never made me one dollar more) The post was more of a comment as to the fact that it was an obvious and significant difference, and commenting just for commenting's sake.

full disclosure mine is a sport, not an ST, but still a 2.7 Eco. When i read my owners manual and it said it was perfectly ok to run 89 octane i was kind of blown away.. I mean 10:1 compression and 15(ish) pounds of boost..? on Regular?! So, I have been running mostlty regular, but TopTier regular from Costco and other good sources. But about 2 weeks ago I said screw it and switch back to premium, before taking 2 extended road trips. Now, I don't know if its the fuel cleaning up carbon deposits (the piston crowns were black with carbon) or the ECU remapping ignition timing to use the available octane, or the air temps cooling off, (or some combination of all three more likely) but there feels like a lot more giddy-up when you mash the loud pedal, perceived by my highly calibrated butt dyno.. ?

Season change oil change. about 8K miles. about 50% highway use Used the Fram XG11955. I have been happy with this filter As always, Mobil 1 extended performance 5w-30

i'm curious about this too

for what it is worth.. I had what i thought was a boiling coolant sound (more of a gentle bubbling sound) in the rear turbo when i came off the highway on hot days. One day i turned off my A/C to hear it better.. and it stopped. It turns out, i was hearing the refrigerant boiling in the evaporator. air in the cooling system will usually burp itself out if the reservoir / header tank is kept on the high side of the range, unless its a large pocket of air, then you'll crack a head before it purges itself on some engines Vacuum filling is the only answer for those cases

I used the rain-x washer fluid so it retreats every time i hit the washer button.. its a million times easier than your process i think. I respect your attention to detail and diligence to have such an involved and comprehensive procedure, but i tend to lack the patience for some things.. especially when there is an effective simple alternative. interesting though, the bit about polymers evaporating off the cluster and interior. I always wondered about that, why the inside gets a film on it.. i mean, i don't smoke.. and I don't have a heater core or evaporator leak as far as i know, so what the hell? question answered.

yeah.. this is me. I don't like to follow too close for safe stopping buffer, but if i leave a reasonable safety gap some ass always drops in and pisses me off I really want a 'look to aim' paintball machine gun on my hood 1 rain sense wipers - i use rain-x and use the wipers as little as possible, so usually they are off unless needed 2 auto high beam - always on except in foggy conditions. i like the feature 3 adaptive cruise makes commuting easier and less stressful- i like it 4 self park- i never use it. tested it once. thats it 5 sync.. never really use it. 6 heated and A/C seats, definite fan of this 7 lane assist - somewhat helpful if you are on a long road trip and getting punchy while looking for a rest stop. but it works poorly and will kill you if you rely on it..

I I finally got around to changing Some of my sparkplugs.. lol 2 hours after driving home, the engine was still pretty warm and i was already losing daylight fast, so I just did the forward bank (#4, 5, & 6) Lets just say i long for the day when the biggest problem was getting straight on an angled plug close to a header.. Holy spiderweb of wiring and vacuum / vapor pipes.. and this is the easy part. The rear bank will be real fun Anyway, 65K miles and the plugs I changed were at 30-34 thousandths, while the new NGK Rutheniums were gapped at .029ish right out of the box