dabangsta

That remote start system was a custom added option (usually they are included with the vehicle and the dealer installs it, but for the 2010 Edge it is installed at the factory it appears) for your year, and there is no integrated solution, you can't get a 5 button IKT (Integrated Keyhead Transmitter) key to replace your 4 button one and have the remote start button work.

Welcome! I find just about any question I have answered in the owners manual if it isn't a super secret thing or a very technical thing. I am sure that many here have probably already dealt with some of the things you have questions about though!

On my 2019 with fog lights, the fog light button is to the left of the rotary dial to select off/park/on/auto (and the dash dimmer up and down are on the right of it, fogs replace the down/dim cluster button).

2011->2018 Edge didn't have fog lights as an available option I don't think. 2007-2010 SEL and higher, and 2019+ SEL and higher do. There are aftermarket fog lights that replace the signature LED lighting with fog lights and LED surrounds (and some are also turn signals). They generally have a full harness and a switch that appears similar to what they look like in fog light equipped vehicles. Seems like some of the steel bumper behind the bumper cover might need modified/cut.

From the first 2022 Canada Order Guide published 8/16 it is listed as a change:

Same in the US, and same since 2022.

Did it (3.5 V6 not 3.6) come with the factory towing package? If yes, then it is rated to tow 3500 pounds. If no, if you added a hitch and wiring, then the limit is 2000 pounds. The differences include trailer sway control on the towing package, I don't know if it includes extra coolers. Loaded that trailer is around 3,300 pounds (I think...). So you would have to have the factory tow package to tow that trailer, even empty. Since your vehicle isn't turbocharged, it won't have an intercooler. They must mean either external (aux) transmission cooler?

They (Dongar) show the 5 pin connector for 2021+ Edge, but the 2019 has the same connector? They also show SEL and higher, but starting in 2019 all trim levels got auto dimming mirror. I get that they can't know every precise detail for the wide range of vehicles they are trying to sell these for, but I would think they could do better. Does anyone have the wiring diagram/pinout for the rear view mirror? While I am trying to be less of a cheapskate with this vehicle and try for plug and play, engineered solutions and higher quality stuff, I find it difficult to spend $30 on a 12v to 5v converter. I know that these connectors are expensive and finding the plug that connects to the body harness is hard, and this is an elegant solution...but I spent $2 (that might be a high estimate as I bought enough for 5 projects) recreating the same thing on my 2012 Fusion, and it isn't exactly a hack or eyesore. I also have a dash cam from a previous vehicle that I wired into the fuse box for constant and switched power, but with it running near the rear view camera it caused the RKE range to be about 5 feet, and caused the TPMS to fault frequently, I tried adding a choke to the wires but that didn't seem to help. If might have been the actual camera itself. I had to pull it and use one that had a USB cable (I guess between the twisting and the proximity of all the wires) to not cause issues with the other stuff.

It is possible you have Remote Start (from the fob) as mentioned is an available option with a package on the SEL. That 3 button remote is not the standard one for the Edge, it should be a 4 button (add Liftgate to that 3 button one), or 5 button (also adding the remote start button). If you have all the other items in the Convenience Package (120v power point or the 3 button garage door set on the drivers sun visor would be easiest to spot), then you would need a 5 button remote and add it if possible (be sure it is possible before you proceed, ask me how I know...). If it has 2 3 button remotes, I would guess the original 4 or 5 button remotes are still programmed in, and if it has 2 more, it won't be simple to add another remote.

I thought that mine were okay on my newly acquired Edge, but when I tried to put a 21mm socket on them, it only engaged about half way down on most of them. I got a set of 23 (I couldn't figure out why 23 until I got them) of 21mm hex m14x1.5 solid lug nuts. These are similar to ones I have used on all my other vehicles, and don't think the smaller conical seat length matters. I replaced them on 2 wheels and will drive it around and check before doing the other 2 wheels. For $1 more I got 3 extra lugs (over the 20 pack) to have spares, but thought it was a typo and would be 24 (for a 6 lug F-150), but they are for a Jeep with the spare that uses 3 lugs to connect to the spare tire carrier. I was barely able to get the OEM lug wrench on them, but my 13/16-21mm lug socket was a no go, but works well with the new lugs. They are 13/16 (20.64mm) but the OEM lug wrench does fine with them. I am glad no one was recording me trying to get the lug wrench off the jack, a very new setup for me but once I noodled it all out it makes sense. The spare actually had 60 psi of air.

It became available in the 2015 with the type 2 (left and right message centers). For the Fusion it was only changeable in Forscan for 2015 and newer, so I am not sure if it is possible or not in the 2012, I don't think it is.

Nice! Hopefully it will be a reliable, safe, and fun vehicle for her. That might be the only Edge in the Phoenix/Tucson/surrounding areas I didn't look at, I think I narrowed mine down more to 2016 and newer eventually.

I did 5+ years of plugging and unplugging USB cables (I had Android, everyone else had iPhone) in my 2017 Escape with a single port in the cubby, and never wore it out. I like having 2 in the Edge, I keep the cords plugged in, but I think I am going to try an aftermarket CarPlay/Android Auto wireless solution, as my wife is pretty rough with cords and connectors (I treat them like they are my life support...). I would prefer at least one Type C port, even if it doesn't do fast charging, I think my Google Pixel 6 Pro actually loses charge plugged into the port for Android Auto, with the screen off. In the 2019 Edge I have ran into twice that my phone disconnected. I use these ridiculously short cables with 90 degree ends on each end, and having a straight end plugged into the Edge works better, so I use one of those, and no more issues.

?Quite the experience, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, right? When my wrecked 2017 Escape was in my driveway, and the door wouldn't close, I had a similar experience, I really had to try hard to get the door to close (the top of the window frame was 4 inches out, but latched to shut off the light), the battery minder helped a little.

The keys for my 1982 F-150 (note that the blade is a mirror image/opposite and each one only fits in the slot designed for it): Same with my 79 Zephyr, 81 Fairmont, 80 Fairmont, and one of my Mustangs, it was the earliest vehicle I remember with that style key. Yes, I will stop now, just thought I would throw out more better ideas on not getting into a state where you might be locked out at a bad time. I don't compute short term ownership.

I wanted the slightly better fuel mileage out of the 2.0, but in the back of my mind I wasn't sure I wanted another 3.5 powered vehicle. My 2012 Fusion Sport has the 3.5, and I drive it hard, and it only has 128k miles. I maintain it fairly well, but again, drive it aggressively and hard. I also didn't own it for the first 105k miles, and it had none of the 100k-120k maintenance done before I bought it. It is was my beat around town car, but it has been on a few longer 1000+ mile trips, and my son is using it to learn to drive and go to school with. I wanted to not have a "coolant intrusion" 2.0 (I sweated bullets with my 2017 Escape with the 1.5), and something with the amount of labor involved in swapping a water pump, if caught in time to not cause catastrophic engine failure, I thought a 2019+ Edge was what I wanted, as the 2020+ Escape just didn't excite me, and finding a later 2019 Escape wasn't really in the cards. I thought I preferred the normally aspirated engines, but with how much more driveable the 1.5 GTDI over the 2.5 is is crazy, pretty similar ratings, but just different beasts to drive. If I drive sensible in the Edge, I can get over 30 mpg (cruise set to 81, very little acceleration to get out of traffic), only time I got over 27 mpg in my Fusion is when I had a temp spare on it and babied it home. I get 3 mpg better on a similar generally downhill interstate run with the 2.0 over the 3.5, but the 3.5 is so much fun to drive I rarely just cruise along with traffic, and gas mileage takes a hit.

If it was me, and I was in this situation, I personally would also buy the door lock cylinder kit that you can setup to match your existing key. I haven't done one in awhile, and it wasn't the easiest thing for a shaky person to do, but Standard Motor Products sells a kit with a new cylinder, 4 sets of the 5 possible key positions, and hopefully detailed instructions on how to do it. I think it is possible to do with a torx T20 bit as the only tool, I don't think the existing lock cylinder needs a working key to be removed (like the ignition cylinder). I think the Ford kit is also like that, and isn't a non PATS key matching pair, but I get conflicting pictures looking up the part number for it. I would go bonkers not having a physical key that worked to open up my vehicle. I would try to match the existing key that works in the ignition instead of adding another key to my ring, but for the longest time my older Fords used a different key for the door/trunk than the ignition (round head for one, square for the other) which I always thought was weird.

Search eBay for your year and model, the same 3 button remote is used by a number of the same generation Fords (3 button like the trucks, hatched vehicles like the Focus). Should be around $5-$7 for a pair. Make sure it isn't just the shell/case! I bought the key and remote combo, but I find many of the fobs only (but only in pairs for cheap). To program it you turn the key from off to run 8 times, the door locks cycle indicating programming mode, then you press a button on the remote(s), turn the key to off, and any remotes you just programmed in will lock/unlock/panic alert.

A few threads here on this, but most of them involve using the rear window defroster as you mention.

The older external button type can eventually break, I had one on my 2000 Grand Marquis do this, at the worse possible time. It froze, and when trying to unlock it (with the key in it, running) it broke. Personally while I am a frequent user of the keypad still, I have found I can't rely on it. It is a convenience and rarely what I would consider a daily use thing. So you have a regular plain PATS key, not the IKT (Integrated Keyhead Transmitter) key with the fob in the head? You can easily buy just a fob and easily program it in. I did that with my 2012 Fusion that has the IKT, I wanted a smaller key/fob combo. $5-$7 for a pair, and the steps to program them are easy (but probably not in your owners manual since the IKT programs the RKE stuff when you program PATS). This is my current key lineup for my 2012 Fusion:

Yes, in the MyKey settings it does show 4 admin keys, I should have checked it when in the buying process. I could tell by the work the dealership had reported to Carfax that keys would be an issue, but I figured it was only one missing programmed fob. Looking at the process with the 10 minute waits and the near 5 minute need to open a door or otherwise reset timers, it should be less than an hour of labor if all goes well, and I get that the expensive hardware needed to do it needs paid for. I might play the "don't feel real secure with 2 programmed fobs floating out there" card with the selling dealership, but I doubt that will get me very far.

I am going to start calling around, local dealer, dealer (Ford) that I bought the vehicle from, and locksmiths. 2019 SEL. It did come with 2 functioning IA smart fobs. 1 is OEM, 1 is aftermarket. I don't know if the dealer added the aftermarket one, or the OEM one (carfax shows them adding and programming key(s)). I asked them to clear all the unavailable keys, make sure there were 2 smart fobs, and that they get the emergency keys cut (both missing). Got 2 out of 3, but I didn't know it had 4 keys programmed in until I tried adding a new one. However it has 4 (the max) programmed in, so I cannot add a third one (3 drivers, 1 that I want MyKey stuff for, and just because I like redundancy). I am guessing that if they understand what I want (only the 2 keys I have programmed in), and are willing to deal with an aftermarket key, $300. That is a little out of my comfort zone, but I have no choice, no DIY thing I can do with a 2019. I guess I should also get them to program in the third key, as that is the proof that there are only 2 programmed fobs. I bought a used OEM one off eBay, and when I get to the end of attempting to add it, it says max keys already.

Normally I would say that the alignment is spot on, but that looks like a little more wear on the outside edge.

2016 manual shows that it should be there (Traction Control in Driver Assist menu), and I don't think 2016 got the Sport mode for ESC. Could you shut it off permanently in this menu, or is it still temporary until enabled in menu or next time the vehicle is started?

How would a powertrain warranty cover wipers? Bumper to Bumper is 3/36k. Either way, I think they just were just venting on a misdiagnosis and some out of pocket costs associated with it, and turned it into a learning experience. I am maybe 30% into the features my SEL has that my 2017 Escape didn't have, and that last 1% that I don't know about are the toughest ones.