dabangsta

Are you sure they are HID? HID are optional and only available with the 302a group with the Titanium (the most obvious other included item is the Enhance Park Assist and front camera). I thought I would like the LED headlights that are standard in my 2019, but I would rather have HID. A properly functioning HID setup is much better for your vision and for not blinding on coming traffic. I had very diminished light output with a very early HID vehicle after 8 years, and replacing the bulbs restored 90% of that (the other 10 was 8 year old reflector and hazed lenses). I tried upgrading to more modern bulb and ballast/ignitor, but the light output was not in the correct place.

I wouldn't use the USB ports for charging a phone, they seem to only do a max of .5 amps. However I do use Android Auto and Apple Carplay, so the phones need to be plugged into those ports for use. Most of the time my Android phone has a lower battery charged percentage when I get to where I am going than it started with. On my 6+ hour drives I have to make sure I have enough battery left. However it is charging, and it is connected data wise. I will have to check rate with the wireless pad, and I always place my phone in that cubby but I am sure wired "charging" and not wireless charging is done when plugged in and on the pad. Driver uses the USB ports and sticks their phone in the cubby: Passenger uses a 12v PD/QC3 charger in the 12v socket on the side of the console (poor position for it, always gets kicked).

You have 2 of the issues listed for the TSB, low coolant and a DTC for a misfire. That much coolant loss in a month is probably excessive. The action is having one of the affected vehicles (you do), 2.0 (you do), and presence of coolant in the engine cylinders. I think with your 2 issues that is enough to get them to look at it, they should first do a 5 hour pressure test, if it fails, then scope the cylinder for proof of coolant entering cylinder(s). I don't know if CPO warranty is the same as the "New Vehicle Limited Warranty" which they just do the work without requiring a prior approval or cost cap. With only 3000 miles remaining, you don't have the luxury of refilling the coolant and seeing what happens, I don't know what all you need to do to get it documented with the current mileage and symptoms if they can't get it in in a reasonable time. My dealer told me I should get pictures of the mileage, Email her, text message her, every way to contact her so she had a paper trail.

There is no easy way to program in a second key/fob for starting if you only have one. There are ways to do it with a program called "ForScan" on a computer and an obd-ii connector. Both the IKT (Integrated Keyhead Transmitter) or the smart IA (Intelligent Access) keys require 2 so you can add one. Programming in the remote access (unlock/lock/panic) is easy to do since when you do that, you have to program in all remotes at the same time, but the key security requires 2 existing keys.

When you called them, did they tell you that they: transferred the existing sensor from the old wheel to the new wheel installed a new one thought the new wheel had one didn't know they needed to If it hasn't found it in a couple of 2+ minute drives over 20 mph, it isn't going to find it. If there is a new one, it might need to be enabled, I am pretty sure that it doesn't need done. I put 4 new tires/wheels with new sensors, and once it was driven a couple of times the sensors initialized and were detected. I know that I can use Torque and an OBD-II adapter to get the pressures on my 2017 Escape, I haven't tried my 2012 Fusion, and my 2019 Edge shows them in the dash. While I agree it isn't a direct safety issue in the short term, I wouldn't want to drive with it on, or more annoyingly, blinking, and sorta defeats the purpose of it, and I wouldn't want to get used to a light being on, then you ignore others, or if there is really an issue with a tire.

Is it a solid light, or a blinking light? I wonder if they transferred over the TPMS sensor from the old wheel to the new one, installed a new one, and didn't initialize it, or there isn't one there.

Dorman and others also have aftermarket replacements for ~$150 as well. I had decent luck with a Dorman replacement on a Fusion, it lasted longer than the factory one.

So...you are at part throttle (like 20-40%), and the engine is jerky, and it does this from take off and through shifting to 2nd then 3rd? Do you let off the gas or "cruise" (10% throttle to maintain speed) and it keeps shifting up to 8th? Is the check engine light on solid or blinking, or does it do this when it is running rough?

I suppose that if maintenance was lacking or an internal issue that causes a lot of metal or other contaminants, it could clog all 4 VVT solenoids at the same time. I also wonder if low pressure could cause the same thing all at the same time. Both banks jumping time is a possibility also. I would guess that removing a VVT solenoid to check it would be the easiest thing to help narrow down the issue.

Are they 17 inch wheels? Is it hitting the barrel of the wheel or the back of the spokes? While they have similar offsets to have similar backspacings per width, I don't know the specs of all of them. I know that some Mustang wheels (including the ones I got for my 2012 Fusion) have odd shaped backs of the spokes and they can contact the brake calipers or mounting brackets in some uses (some Mustang brake setups, or used on other things like Crown Vics). I am running a 3mm spacer to get the rim away from the suspension and the brake caliper.

Same fuse for the license plate light, so the wiring to the liftgate does come into play.

For me using the Stop and Go part of adaptive cruise was the thing I was apprehensive about, once I got used to adaptive cruise in general. It is great in stop and go traffic on the interstate, however I do need to go with 2 bars instead of my normal 1, as 0-65-0 triggered the impending collision warning a few times (I was ready for it and braked manually before it was an issue). My parents have a 2020 Explorer Platinum (since 2019) with all the good stuff (my 2019 Edge SEL is missing a lot of what the OPs ST has), and they don't use much of the tech either, they still back up by turning their heads and looking out the back window, for example, let alone let it try to park itself.

Welcome and glad you are enjoying your ST! Even a Ford dealer would not be able to fully explain all the gadgets and gizmos, but with it being current and similar to others, maybe a little. I think after 4 months I have probably used all options, and other than trying to figure out why sometimes the heated seats default to on (it was 99 degrees yesterday, so...no more heated seat please), got a handle on them. Last thing was someone turned off Lane Keeping and it took me a second to find the button at the end of the turn signal stalk to re-enable it.

Thanks for the follow up and glad you got it resolved!

Did you/they have a code reader that can read ABS codes? I think that an ABS sensor type issue can cause this. I used a bluetooth OBD-II adapter and Torque app on my phone to watch wheel speeds and ABS signals to diagnose an issue with my 2012 Fusion. I assume that you also have the ABS light on?

2019+ got AWD disconnect for all models (2.0 or 2.7 powered).

Seems like the ST got it in 2019, and in some cases (I think there is a hot weather group that is available in certain locales) earlier Edges with the 2.7 (Sport and ST) had it as well.

The OEM ones are a weird shape that only take up a slot on the outer edge. Probably cost prohibitive and some parts like the cover are on back order, to replace them with OEM fog lights ($105 each), the mounts ($140 each), and the cover ($170 each). They are pretty effective, they seem to fill a lot of the area that the weird OEM LED headlights leave shadows.

I let mine close on my arm, and it was pretty aggressively still trying to close, when the dog triggered it to close I pulled a cooler in the way so the kennel door wouldn't hit the glass. There are ways to get rid of the honk when running and key is no longer in the cabin, it requires some advanced stuff like an OBD-II adapter, a laptop, and a program called ForScan. I think a lot of people that do delivery like to disable it. For most it is a good thing, my wife closed the pano roof the other night and it honked at her when she tried to lock it because she left it on but not running.

It honks so you can't lock the keys in the car. You can still lock them in if you want using the keypad on the door. That honk when the key is the cabin negates the likelyhood of it locking you out. I haven't tried a key in the cargo area, just the passenger area. I have had a few close calls with the Hands Free Liftgate, I have little toy dogs and when trying to get them into their kennel in the cargo area they run under the bumper and close it. Worst part about that is the kennel door swings out and could contact the rear window as it is closing. It has opened while washing it also. Hands free is gimmicky, but now that I have it and use it, it is handy and I don't have to put down what I am carrying, or open it with the fob before I get there.

What year and model and options? I guess most importantly does it have auto dimmer rear view mirror. On my 2019 SEL with auto dimming mirror I am using this connector. There are a number of posts that show the wiring/pins for ground and switched power. I am going a DIY route with pins pushed in the back (work well on another car), there are also premade adapters that go inline and have a 12v->5v adapter as part of it.

Welcome! As a few months owner of a 2019 SEL (with additions of Group 201a with premium audio, dual message displays in cluster, heated front seats, LED Signature lighting...and Co-Pilot360 Assist+ with adaptive cruise,...and convenience package with remote start), I understand. I came from a low optioned 2017 Escape, and found a well equipped SEL to replace it. It took some time to get used to the Adaptive Cruise. First thing I did was update SYNC 3 to 3.4 (the newer darker UI), make sure I had the door code. I still have to learn why frequently it starts up with drivers seat heat on (it was nice for about 2 weeks, but it is already 85 degrees where I live). Know what standard features you have, what options, and read up in the owners manual, I get the PDF and do it on my computer. I also had to ask about a few things here, lots of experience and access to advanced documents by quite a few here.

As part of the paid diagnostic did they provide any codes it set? I think it is a common failure, rarely an actual wiring issue, most of the time the wiring harness and the connector on the parking brake motor corrode. There is nothing that requires any dealer level tools or programming to replace them.

So both banks stuck rich (p2196 and P2198) small evap leak (P0456) throttle stuck open (P2111) throttle position doesn't match the TPS position reported (P2135) I know with my 2012 Fusion there is a relearn/calibration for the ETC (throttle pedal and Throttle Body). With key in ON position but engine not running, slowly steadily press down on the gas pedal until it is fully down, then release it slowly and steadily. I wonder if that might help with the P2111 and P2135. The purge valve on my 2012 (Fusion, with the 3.5) is totally different, but all the other codes point to it, so if the valve has been replaced multiple times, and possibly tested with vacuum. If you disconnect the wiring connector to it, and the hose to the evap, and start the car, do you feel a vacuum on the opened nipple that goes to the evap? Can you tell if there is raw fuel in the evap line?

What year, and what are the current codes? AWD or FWD (different tanks some/all years)? How many miles are on it, and did anything change or happen before it started behaving this way?