dabangsta

Welcome. Sounds like you are not a fan, but hopefully you find enough redeeming qualities to keep it around. My father is 6'5" and I though he would hate my 2019 with the pano roof, but other than exaggerated swinging of the knees under the steering wheel, he thought it was just fine. The roof does make it closer to my head than I like, but this is the first vehicle I can't drive with the seat all the way back. I also have the seat back pretty vertical, if I was to recline it a bit I would be further away from the ceiling, but all Fords I have had are taller seat bottoms and more upright backs, and I just find it comfortable and and easier to drive that way. They are noisy, I am used to much quieter sedans, but it is quieter than the 2017 Escape it replaces (which isn't hard, it is a thin tin can with felt inner wheel wells). Between wheel noise and air noise, I just crank up the tunes.

2014 only offered heated seats (SEL and Limited trim levels), no cooling options available (not until 2017). It wouldn't just be something enabled in a module or SYNC, as it uses different hardware to do each thing (if it was available option for your year).

It is equipped with "One-Touch Integrated Start" (OTIS), which once you turn the key to START you can release it, and it will continue to try to start until it does. I think it is 10 seconds it will attempt to start the vehicle before stopping it. If it is continuously attempting to crank and start until you stop it, or it times out after 10 seconds, I would suspect a fuel delivery issue. One thing to try is to turn the key to ON and let it sit for a couple seconds, turn it to OFF, then back to ON, let it sit a couple of seconds, then try to start it. Sorta what you see how, second start attempt works, but is sluggish. Even with a battery healthy enough to crank the engine for 5-10 seconds, a weak fuel pump can often fail. I temped fate in my last car at 199,000 miles, it gave me all the indications of a failing fuel pump, but I disregarded them, until it finally left me stranded. It would not always start on the first attempt, it would sometimes start better with a battery charger attached (but the engine cranking speed on the starter was fine).

Drain and fill is the way to go. If it has been 90k miles, you might want to do multiple drain and refills (it takes 3 per the Ford manual to get most of the fluid changed that way). Mercon LV gets dark fast. Ford issued a bulletin about it 2 years after they started shipping vehicles with it. The dye it uses goes away pretty quickly (like Royal Purple in some uses). Some Mercon V stays red longer, but most of it is dark after 10k miles, and even with 3 or 4 drains, it will likely stay pretty dark, with a hint of red after the last change. As long as it doesn't smell burnt, isn't brown or have a lot of suspended solids, shouldn't be an issue.

It is a standard feature on your 2018 Titanium, so you have it. In the SYNC touchscreen, go to Settings (gears) and the Ambient Lighting (moon over a bulb emitting rays) and you can select a color, the brightness, or select a color and drag it down to 0 brightness.

I couldn't get the video to load, but with your description of where the coolant is coming from, yes, it is possible that it is the internal water pump is going bad and is leaking out of weep hole. Here is a post that seems to have a good picture of one of the weep holes:

Which socket are you checking? The one to the back of the headlight housing, or the one inside the headlight housing that the bulb plugs into? My 2012 Fusion tried to burn itself down with a short in the internal to the housing wiring. The socket to the bulb was burnt crispy and the wiring was cracked and missing much of the insulation. If you have power then check the ground.

Have you verified which type of headlight you have, halogen (9012 halogen bulb) or HID (D3S HID bulb)? A D3S HID bulb has a big aluminum box on the back of it, the 9012 Halogen is a simple bulb on a 90 degree base. If you already purchased one, cost difference of $10 or $50. Halogen was standard on the 2013 Limited, HID was an option, included in both groups 301a and 302a and optional on 300a.

2 fuses under the dash for control (F16 is the passenger side, F17 is drivers side), high beam is F39 (but that will only control the gate for low to high, not the actual bulb). HID has 2 under the hood, F78 passenger side, F57 drivers side).

Yeah, I don't think there is any way to enable or disable it, just some of the options (like guidelines, parking alert (if equipped), and delay. These are in the Vehicle settings (left display/controls on left of steering wheel Menu>Vehicle>Rear View Camera). Only reason it should not display is if the lift gate isn't closed, but it should show a message about that.

Does it have Halogen or HID headlights? I think if you have push button start and power lift gate you have HID. Have you tried removing the cover from behind the bulb and seeing if it is still plugged in and in the socket? There is only 1 bulb for low and high.

What indication do you still have that the BMS needs reset? What is the "low battery" message?

I think I misread your question, thinking there might be a recall or something for it. There is a TSB for earlier ones, I don't know if they fixed the issue for 2011 or not. There is very little fluid in the PTU, so any visible leak can mean half the fluid gone. I had 4 or 5 spots from it blowing the dark nasty fluid out the vent, and looking in the PTU from the fill/sight hole it was pretty far down. I really couldn't get any of the goo out of it, I filled it with new gear lube and drove it for a few thousand miles then sucked it out and refilled it to the sight hole, I don't know if I did it in time or not, but I have 15,000 miles on it since and I don't think I have any odd noises from it. I don't know if this TSB helps or not, and if it just covers up to 2010 because it came out when the 2010 model year was in production, TSB 09-25-07 (https://www.tsbsearch.com/Ford/09-25-7)

Not sure what good a TSB on a 12 year old vehicle would be, other than tell you about the issue and maybe show part numbers and times. I am assuming you are well out of warranty.

The symptoms, including the hard start after fueling, is a common issue with the purge valve or canister. It probably isn't related to the active shutters, which should be, as stated, active (electronically controlled to open and close in specific scenarios), and not just floppy, sounds like the control was deleted or broken.

I like to stock up on them from the junk yard, but they have become about the same price as some mid level new ones. In well over 1 million miles on cars with COPs I have had to replace 2, they went out from a coolant leak that filled spark plug wells and killed them. Otherwise I have a nice assortment of 10-12k mile take offs for vehicles I no longer own, so I only grabbed 3 for my 3.5. My 2000 Grand Marquis still had 7 OEM 21 year old 330,000 miles ones, and a Mustang one from someone that thought they needed bright yellow ones so I bought the set from them. Much better than counterfeit ones off Amazon or eBay or ones with the wrong connectors and splicing or making them work. I broke the mount on one in my 3.5, and it came with one of the connectors in bad shape, but so far still good, but only at 130k miles.

I prefer to have a certain amount of control and not let the vehicle do it, but stop and go traffic for 45 minutes? Vehicle, do your thing! You have to be stopped for less than 3 seconds for it to start back up on its own. If over 3 seconds, you have to press RES on the steering wheel or you have to blip the throttle, then it will "follow" again. Creeped forward for 12 cars at a stop sign without pressing the brake or the gas to continue, pressed the brake for me to stop at the stop sign, then pressed RES and it resumed. I do frequently find myself using the gas to get closer to vehicle in front of me than 1 bar allows, and as it states it will accelerate to a faster speed than set sometimes when you change lanes.

I was curious as to not working under 12 mph, as I frequently (following the 14 warnings in the owners manual) use it in stop and go freeway traffic and around town traffic. I almost thought I was tempting fate but the owners manual makes it sound like it is stop-go-stop capable and it is. I am going to just have my wife follow me with my car with a dash cam and check out the video later. I find the owners manuals are frequently not updated correctly to changes in vehicles, even by the 3rd or 4th "printing" downloading the PDFs. My 2017 Escape they didn't add the halogen projector bulb, so many people are confused and get the wrong one.

The 2014 Flex had 7hp and 4lb feet of torque more than the 2018 Edge, but the Flex weights 500-600 pounds more. I thought that the 2.0 would get me better mileage than the 3.5, however compared to my 2012 Fusion with the 3.5, they are very similar, however I tend to drive my Edge on cruise and stay with traffic and my Fusion I tend to be more aggressive in breaking out of packs of cars. I can get 32 mpg consistent in the 2.0 Edge, but one stomp into turbo territory and I am down to 28 mpg average over the entire tank. If I behave myself mostly in my Fusion 3.5 I get around 28, and if I stomp it a few times down to 26. It is AWD and higher mileage, and not an SUV, so not apples-apples comparison though.

Well, I decided to look into this more as others haven't reported it. Looks like I am going to the dealer to get a replacement hood bumper and striker bumper. The striker bumper doesn't stay in place. I found it laying in the plastic tray it contacts when it place. The passenger side does have a bumper/stop at least

I don't know what section this best fits in, but since I am curious about the brake lights (and I guess when it uses brakes)... I have been trying out the adaptive cruise more and more, to be comfortable with it in long distance freeway drives, stop and go freeway traffic, and to some extent, stop and go city driving. It does make some of that travel less stressful but sometime more stressful, more attention needed. 2019 SEL adaptive cruise and lane centering. When slight deceleration, probably no brake lights on? (coming up on a vehicle going 2-3 mph slower) When aggressive deceleration, brake lights on? (car comes into lane in front of me going 10 mph slower and in my range) When coming to a stop, brake lights on? (stopping at a light following someone) I am curious because in some emergency stop freeway action (accident and car along road, bring traffic to a stand still) yesterday, the car behind me really kept getting super close. No matter if creeping then stopping or 0-65-0 fast stop. I did let the adaptive cruise warn me of impending collision once (I was on the brake pedal once it happened I went from 1 bar of distance to 2 so it had more time to react), but even without that the driver behind me nearly collided with me 4 or 5 times. I want to follow someone driving it in these situations, but I really am having a hard time explaining what I want them to do, and be comfortable doing it.

One of the things I looked out for on my 2019/2020 quest to get an Edge. The one I got, that is out of powertrain warranty, had the issue already and the programming and cooler replacement. Having a 2017 Escape with the 1.5 and waiting for the coolant intrusion issue was not much fun. No sense it would happen, and at 96,000 miles hadn't happened yet.

Subjectively, quantifiably, or what best? Best now or best when it was released? I thought a 2020 was best for me. 2.0 without the coolant intrusion issue (fingers crossed), 8 speed transmission, LED headlights (but they are so bad), SYNC 3 (I don't like SYNC 2 without Android Auto, don't like SYNC 4 and portrait style display and no EACT hard buttons), AWD disconnect (but I ended up getting FWD).

What is used as the DRL differs depending on what type of headlight (halogen or HID) you have. If you have halogen then it is the low beam, if you have HID it is the dedicated H15 bulb.

The coolant intrusion issue was supposedly fixed for the 2019 model year for the Edge. I think most of the issues with the transmission are related to the 6F35 (harsh shifting, flex plate breaking) which was last used in 2018 in the Edge. While the 2019+ engine does have some new things (the EGR cooler), the 8 speed transmission has been around since 2019 (in the Edge, since 2017 in some other vehicles) and I haven't seen any trends of high failure rates or issues. I personally bought a 2019 at the end of its powertain warranty and felt good not opting for the extended warranty that was over 10% of the purchase price. It already suffered the EGR cooler failure, the PCM update done and the cooler replaced.