dabangsta

Tirerack shows exactly 1 275/55R18 tire (it is a sport truck all-season). being .3 inches taller and 1.2 inches wider, you can visualize having the tire .6 inches further out and closer to the inside, turn the wheel full lock and see. I personally have not tried putting on a wider and slightly taller tire on an Edge. My 2012 Fusion is very close on width when I try to use wider rims with more backspacing, but if I was to just do tires 1.2 inches wider seems like it would fit (I used foam board attached to the tires and turned the steering full both ways, and tried compressing the suspension).

Which display type do you have? Dual pod tach on left, speedometer on right, and multifuction display in the middle, or speedometer center? If base (tach and speedo) then main menu>information>Coolant Temperature If single speedo, the coolant temperature is part of the tach/fuel/temp display (main menu>display mode>up and down to tach/fuel/temp) I also use Torque app with my phone and an OBD-II adapter, I setup sets of gauges, I haven't used Forscan light or Forscan on my laptop for things like this so don't know the best way to monitor it using it.

In my 2017 Escape, I let the battery get down to a little over 200 CCA (it was a 760 CCA battery) before I replaced it (1.5 GTDI and it cranked just fine), and I tried the "let it sit for 8 hours" a few nights, and it didn't reset. Until I manually reset the BMS (using the flash to pass 5 times and brakes 3 times) Auto Start/Stop was disabled still. I also think that the radio would turn off if the engine wasn't running to save the battery (which is was doing before battery replacement, and only reason I replaced it), and I think that it shut off remote (via FordPass, not key fob) access and still went into deep sleep.

Having a semi related PTU is a similar vehicle (2012 Fusion Sport AWD 3.5 with an awf21 transmission), with no drain plug, and having that thick viscous goop forced out the vent, I wish it wasn't at 110,000 miles that I got it, and could have gotten to it sooner. I filled and removed as much "fluid" as I could a few times (no drain, so sucking out the nasty stuff), it has never been noisy that I can tell, and now that it mostly has fresh gear lube filled to where it should be, it hasn't been messy again. This is what I found after parking on the same place a few nights in a row: This is the best view I could get of the top of the transmission at the vent, a puddle of it:

I assume that where you live has an environment that might cause more corrosion than what the person in Florida is used to? I get parts from people and I live in the desert southwest and I consider them trash, but are sold as "light corrosion" or "surface rust" from back east. I might just be they are not used to cleaning up the tire bead area and the wheel mating surface or rotor hub and applying anti-seize to the faces (not the lugs). Probably nothing specific to the wheel, I am sure that the same surface treatment is found on all aluminum wheels, and they touch dissimilar metal on the rotor hats.

Might not even be mechanical, could be water intrusion into the connector to the rack, however that will usually throw a message on the dash. If the power assist is out, it is still driveable, but pretty hard to turn, especially when stationary.

While not exactly what you are after (brighter), this color change post has some pretty good details, and talks about if you want to remove and replace the soldered on yellow LEDs.

That is even weirder to me on a vehicle with EPAS. My older hydraulic system cars could be stiff and noisy when really cold, but not driven an EPAS vehicle in the cold, but I wouldn't expect an electric motor to suffer like a fluid pump.

I only drove a couple Edges with that style gauge, and I thought they had silver faces and dark numbers that might have been green backlit when the headlights are on? But must always be backlit and the gauge background can also be black it seems.

Are you talking about the illumination/backlight for the gauges, the needles, any of the warning or informational indicators (like low on fuel, cruise on), or the information center or small message center (depending on how equipped)? Feel lucky that they are a bulb and overlay and not an LCD. This is my first vehicle without aftermarket tint added, and 75% of the time I can't see the 2 info screens on my 2019 due to glare during the day.

I don't have access to or have driven a wide range of modern vehicles, and the fact that the visual part of the EATC in my 2019 is displayed in the SYNC 3 screen, I was a bit worried. But as long as CarPlay and Android Auto work, I don't care if it is a dumb terminal. Don't care about the built in navigation, and once updated to 3.4 it is responsive enough. It seems better than the Hyundai Tucson I drove a couple thousand miles, the Mazda 3, and a Rogue, but those are all either on par or lower end than my SEL. I don't like the 2020+ Explorer or 2022+ Edge portrait style screen with no physical controls (or very few).

Maybe it is the way the 2019+ hood is very visible from the drivers seat, but with a bit of side wind, the hood really shimmies and shakes on the interstate, and on rougher roads. It was bought used, and it shows some signs of abuse, but it doesn't look like the hood has been removed (the EGR cooler work doesn't seem to require it). While the 2015-2018 hood is similar, I don't recall seeing it as prominently when driving them. The one 2014 had a flat hood.

FMVSS 135 is for service brakes and parking brakes for light duty passenger vehicles under 3500kg. Yes, you need to have mechanical park brakes that meet certain requirements for weight, slope, surface friction, etc. I don't think that makes this an automatic inclusion for a recall, probably mostly because there is a fault displayed so you don't think you are secured by it?

As mentioned, I would consider it actually being low oil pressure until you get to the point it might be a wiring or sender issue. I would check the oil level. If it is low in some instances it could cause a low pressure situation. I am battling this with my 2012 Fusion Sport (with the same 3.5). Mine is leaking oil from the pressure sender. At first the low oil pressure light would come on only at a specific intersection when I stopped. Now after I drive it hard for a while it will inconsistently be on when the RPMs are lower than 800 rpm (when the oil pressure really is low, but should be higher than the sensor reports as low). Once I replace the pressure sender, if it is still on I will get a mechanical gauge to test it, then...assume it is an internal issue, clogged oil pickup, bearing tolerances/wear, bad oil pump.

Welcome! I like the way that the Vignale's are equipped. While I do like our top level Titanium the Vignale takes it further it seems, at least chrome wise. If I could get a Fusion/Mondeo estate/wagon Vignale I would be happy!

Since it uses the same bulb for low and high, I don't know why they give 2 different lumen numbers. High beam just opens a shutter, I am guessing that you didn't use the resistors thinking they were for the turn signal? I would guess that there isn't enough resistance on the high beam side if it goes directly to a small motor or whatever to move the shutter. With single bulb with single filament, I don't know what sort of voodoo they do in the housing. Since the same bulb is always on do they power it always somehow, is there a diode and it is fed by both low and high? With the extra leads out for the headlight, you probably need the resistors.

That is pretty much what I expected, but didn't know for sure. I do still suggest using the TR code on the label.

The 2.0 gets the 6F35, not sure which transmission the 2.7 or 3.5 get, I don't know enough about them and the owners manual is not specific enough (can't flat tow the 6F35, can the 6F50/55).

Look on your Vehicle Certification Label (in the drivers door sill). TR of 6 is 6F35 TR of C is 6F55 TR of J is 6F50

From the 2008 Ford Workshop Manual for 2008 Edge:

Then someone has bypassed that part of the passive anti-theft. The PATS signal is needed for the ground signal to the starter relay, otherwise it shouldn't crank. This is what should happen:

Glad they took care of it. It gets crazy annoying watching them attempt to correct every start up. I put mine in "service position" (swept up and then lifted on the glass) on my 2019 for its first serious wash, and it did self adjust the first start up, but that is it, so that is nice. They do work differently than my 2017 Escape did.

I think that AWD got the larger rotor. I can't find the official Ford tech specs for a 2017 but for 2019 FWD was 315mm, and AWD was 345mm rotors (and ST having 2 different style discs, and larger rear discs).

I would deal with this when I would lift the wipers off the windshield of my 2017 Escape when washing it (can't do that with the Edge, they don't clear the back of the hood), and sometimes it would take 10 starts for them to stop adjusting. Same if they remove them to swap out the battery (you can remove the cowl do it, but then more often than not this happens). The process is to have the wiper arms off the shafts, turn on the wipers and let the shafts cycle a few times then shut them off, then put the arms back on where they should be in resting position. So yes, it is sorta a reset of the motor.

Seems more like condensation than a full on water/coolant leak into the crank case. Do you live in a humid climate, do lots of cold starts, and possible not get it up to temp and keep it up to temp for your drives? I would get water emulsion on the oil fill cap on a few of my cars in the colder but not frozen parts of the year.