dabangsta

I have zero luck with the wireless charging spot in my 2019. I use a cable (for Android Auto/Apple CarPlay) and put the phone face down so it doesn't try to charge (it will, even if plugged in). If I put it in back side down, it overheats. If I don't have a case on my smaller iPhone 11, it will slide out of position and stop charging. I 3d printed a surround for my iPhone 11 (it is my work phone, I take it with me in case I am on call, but don't use it to stream audio or navigation rarely, as I prefer my android phone) which helped, but in the summer when it is 115 degrees, even with the AC on Max (which it rarely is once the cabin is down to a reasonable temp) it still overheats. Passenger plugs into a 12v USB power point plugged into the passenger side outlet anyways, as the USB in the console is slow (it or the wireless charging charges my phone at most 1% an hour, barely keeps up with usage). Since there are plenty of 30w adapters that fit in the outlet and still allow it the cover to close, I don't see it as a workaround, it is just a better way of charging devices. I might take up my threat and unplug the wireless charger, that would make the most sense. 99% of my device charging is via wireless charging. I have stands on my desk for my phones, I have one on the night stand, and Android trickle charges until my morning alarm anyways, it is more than enough to start at 0 at 10pm and be at 100% by 5 am.

An AGM H6 is what it should have, and what it should be replaced with.

What year ST is it? I don't think the Edge has any known issues like others (like the Explorer) where it incorrectly reports that. When to turn off the car and before you open a door can you keep the radio going for a bit? Batteries aren't what they used to be. When my 2017 Escape starting doing this I also couldn't listen to music without the engine running, I got a similar message that it was shutting down to preserve the battery. Mine tested down the 225CCA, and I drove it like that for awhile, as it always started fine, and I carried a jump box. but in the end wasn't worth the loss of remote start and location and wondering when it would fail to start.

No, it cannot be started without the fob. The fob doesn't need to work to unlock the doors with the buttons or proximity sensor, or even inside proximity sensor. There is a spot in the center console you can place the fob with the key ring forward and the buttons up to bypass the proximity if the battery is dead in the fob.

The menu option of "Auto Engine Off" is not related to Auto Start/Stop.

There is no menu item for it. I think you are disabling the extended run where when you start it and let it idle it will only go for so long before shutting down.

There are add on remote starts that use the factory fob, but some combination of buttons to start, like lock/unlock/lock (no horn honk) and older ones was lock/lock/lock (but it honks on the second lock, which is annoying). My 2015 Fusion came with one (bought used) that we didn't know about until we were playing around with global up/down windows, and it started. But that shouldn't happen from the door, but brake might be the thing that shuts it down if you brake before you put in the key. I also don't think there is a config for it that it might reset to default and do that, some how start on a single lock and from any source. I spotted it when I added a fuse tap to add a dash cam, it was tied into the OBD port as well.

No direct correlation between electrical system and mechanical water pump in the 3.5. Maybe the cooling fans and that caused it to overheat and the water pump seal to fail?

So you have the IKT (key with a cut blade and all the remote features on the head) and have to turn the key to start. You have one that electronically works (when near the steering column), and one that physically turns the ignition switch, but neither key will do both? Or only one works to remotely lock/unlock, but both will start the car? Or do you have push to start and Intelligent Access?

2022 will have the 8F35, there are some TSBs for them, but most are not for 2022. There is 21-2081 (21-2389) that is 2019-2021 Edge 8f35 shudder/jerk at low (under 35 mph) speeds. I do wish I knew about that one when I picked up my 2019 with 1000 miles left on warranty, I might need tot ake it and pay that 1 hour labor to get the strategy reprogram done, as that is the biggest/only gripe from the usual driver of the car (my wife).

Interesting, I didn't know that is what it was called, and what it really was. I have seen a tan and brown film before, but never this much depth and darkness. I guess my other cars with the plugs down in wells the spark plug boot covers more up to the shell, and before that when plugs where out in the elements it was tough to tell road grime from it. I did the plugs on an older 2.0 with 110,000 miles and it had none of that, I always thought it was combustion gases making it past where the shell was, as I have seen it on one or 2 plugs but never all of them.

I think changing them out at 82,000 miles has improved the idle a bit, was a wee bit rough before. I fought the cylinder #4 COP until I figured out how easy these boots come off the COP and how. I was surprised to see this much carbon on the insulator porcelain (I wiped away some on the first one to check the part number): The Iridium nub was still shiny but the gap was eroded a bit

Probably like the older style ones that lock on, so you don't accidentally overfill the tire by forgetting it is connected or can't get it disconnected in time. Probably not an issue with an inflator (no tank and generates air as used), my cheapo 12v inflator screws on, it can take a bit to get it off, but chugging at 1psi every 30 seconds or so not an issue.

The LED on the button or the section in the instrument panel? Sounds like the LED in the switch no longer works, but that should have no bearing on the functionality. If when first turning to ignition on and all lights are tested does the instrument cluster light for traction control not light, then it is an issue with the cluster. If it does light up during bulb test/prove out, but the button doesn't function (when pressed it doesn't make the light illuminate in the cluster showing it is off) then there is an issue with the button (the LED is independent of the button functionality, but all use the same connector). Do your hazards work?

You need a new tire calculator/comparer. that 315/35/R20 is only .3 inches shorter than a 255/50/R19. It is significantly wider at around 12.4 inches.

If you have an AUX in, you have MyFord which doesn't have USB or Bluetooth capabilities, so a USB port wouldn't provide any benefit. Any power point to USB power adapter will provide much better power than the USB standard of 500mW to charge. To have a setup that can play songs from a USB thumb drive, or apps on a phone, or Apple CarPlay or Android Auto, you would need to go with an aftermarket head unit. The MyFord Touch 8 inch touch screen available for your year would have Bluetooth and USB drive playing capabilities, but would be as much work as an aftermarket setup. I don't know if center console replacements to fit a touch screen are common or available for your year and no touchscreen already.

Drivers side front of the cargo area? TCU

Before I found the correct lug nuts for a trailer to match the vehicle, I got an extended lug wrench with 2 double-sided sockets. I replaced the lugs to match the vehicle, but still carry the lug wrench as it has come in handy and works better than the OEM one in many instances. This is just a small selection of things I carry around the spare tire. I need to get a more current picture of it, and the things I 3d print holders for. I added a compressor, plug kit, jump box (each vehicle has its own now), etc.

So new they have 11/32 tread, but yours are worn down to 8/32? I think the industry standard deviation is 3/32 before it will cause weird things to happen, so right at that. I don't know if Ford has a spec for it or not. Places like Tirerack can shave them to match your other 3 as well. https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/can-tires-be-shaved-to-match-tread-depths-on-allwheel-drive-fourwheel-drive-vehicles

Left message/information center>Drivers Assist>Pre-Collision>Alert Sensitivity there is Low, Normal, or High. ( or heck, just turn it off!) I tried Low figured out that I actually like the brake charging, I immediately have brakes when I touch them and full power. I have never had it auto brake for me, just alert and pressurize the brake system.

The owners manual says you can change the sensitivity of it, but I have not been able to find it in my settings, but I guess I didn't really look all that hard as it has only flaked out on me a couple of times with large semi trailers in adjacent lanes, and I guess a bit sensitive in stop and go traffic if I am aggressive with the 0-75-0 or the adaptive cruise is.

if you didn't touch the area on top of the handles that are used to lock it with proximity of the Intelligent Access fob, I guess that could mean that one of them is busted and always trying to lock it, and once the fob is close enough it can finally lock? When you unlocked it, did it relock? Proximity just enables it to be locked or unlocked using the touch points.

(Un)Fortunately my Google Pixel 6 Pro stays in place, but it heats up so bad it shuts off charging. My sons iPhone 14 slides off and stops charging. I put my phone in upside down so it doesn't change since I have it plugged in for Android Auto (and the iPhones for Carplay). I will probably disable the wireless charging pad. I charge all the time on QI chargers and don't have an issue except in the car.

It is easy enough to lock the keys in the vehicle. It is tougher to do with the engine running. I made sure I have my door code (I made a custom one that matches my last cars code), FordPass is currently connected, and the Alexa connection is still authorized, so even if I lock my phone in the car, I can still unlock it from my watch.

Sorry to hear that! If you didn't setup FordPass to access it via the cell phone app, and you don't have access to another key easily, getting the code isn't possible, especially when locked out.