enigma-2 Posted June 13 Report Share Posted June 13 9 hours ago, 22CarbGrayElite said: I am open to opinions on this. OK, my opinion. Remove that K&N cabin air filter and throw it in the trash..! Bold statement, here's why I have a problem with K&N cabin air filters. There are actually several negative problems associated with K&N cabin air filters (as compared to standard and premium, disposable paper filters.) While they "do" increase HVAC airflow and are reusable, these are not really a good thing. K&N focus heavily on maximizing airflow. In doing so, the mesh design allows more ultra-fine dust and pollen to bypass the filter compared to a regular paper media. They dont have an activated carbon layer as found in standard "premium" filters. (The K& N is a premium filter.) With no carbon layer, they cannot neutralize outside exhaust smells or odors. They don't have a HEPA rating (a.k.a. they don't filter out pollen, small, tight dust, mold spores, and exhaust. Their expensive. A standard disposable paper filter costs between $10, while a K&N cabin filter typically runs between $40 to $60. While they are designed to be reused by cleaning, you can't wash it with regular soap and water..! This will destroy its "special" properties. You must purchase a special K&N Cabin Air Filter Refresher Kit for roughly $15 to $20. This destroys any chance to break even for at least 4 years. Possibly 5. Suppose its minor, but replacing a standard filter takes 20 minutes. (I can change mine in 5.) But, cleaning a K&N requires spraying it down, cleaning it with the special K&N Cabin Air Filter Refresher Kit, rinsing it out, require a special electrostatic refresher spray after every wash to attract more dust and then letting it completely air-dry. Then it can be reinstalled. A 10-minute project suddenly turns into an hour or more. No airflow arrows on filters to indicate which side faces airflow. This allows the filter to be accidentally installed backwards. (Big complaint from the Toyota forum on Facebook) "The high-volume mesh material can occasionally introduce a faint whistling or whining noise through your dashboard vents when the AC fan is set to its highest speed." (Again from Facebook, 2016- 2023 Toyota Tacoma Owners) I just bought a brand new filter for my MKX, (new brand to the market.) It's a "Febreze" Pureflow, which is supposed to block 99% of all pollution and dust, (wife has asthma), carbon layer to block carbon monoxide, and a baking soda layer to neutralize odors. (The Febreze is unsented.) $20 on Amazon. Haven't installed it yet, we'll see. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edjunior Posted June 14 Report Share Posted June 14 I agree with enigma on the K&N cabin filter. I tried one on my Dodge Charger, and it let in so many odors, it was kinda worthless. Back to a factory type filter, and most of the odors were blocked out again. I had the K&N engine air filter in my old gas F-250, and it did fine for that truck. I never bought another filter, just cleaned and oiled as instructed. It did not increase HP or gas mileage, or anything like that. It did have a pretty neat roar on acceleration, but other than that, it just saved me a little money on replacement filters. I find it just easier nowadays to stick with manufacturer recommended filters, and don't try and mess with the aftermarket stuff anymore. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edjunior Posted June 14 Report Share Posted June 14 9 hours ago, Brandon123 said: 110000 used Ah, yeah, maybe time to move on. Those nickels and dimes tend to add up pretty quick, especially in todays challenging economy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon123 Posted June 22 Report Share Posted June 22 On 6/13/2026 at 10:00 PM, edjunior said: Ah, yeah, maybe time to move on. Those nickels and dimes tend to add up pretty quick, especially in todays challenging economy. I am it was the rear diff, it was cracked and 2 days ago it fully split apart. Ill add pics of when I got it back from the shop and now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon123 Posted June 26 Report Share Posted June 26 Update on the edge. So apparently because the diff is broken it can now somewhat do burnouts and drift. I think this proves that a edge it the most resilient vehicle because im literally driving it with a diff thats completely split apart, a radiator that is destroyed, and absolutely 0 exaust and its still driving. Long live the fedge 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edjunior Posted June 27 Report Share Posted June 27 14 hours ago, Brandon123 said: Update on the edge. So apparently because the diff is broken it can now somewhat do burnouts and drift. I think this proves that a edge it the most resilient vehicle because im literally driving it with a diff thats completely split apart, a radiator that is destroyed, and absolutely 0 exaust and its still driving. Long live the fedge Hah! Give it hell man, give it hell! You have nothing to lose with it, so might as well enjoy it while it lasts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TourGuide Posted June 27 Report Share Posted June 27 Not today - but recently - Restore and protect oil change #2 with an amsoil filter - evac and refill with amsoil severe gear for the ptu - brake flush - and BG44k fuel injector system cleaner. At 86k I am trying the maintain and fix strategy as a cheaper alternative to buying new. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22CarbGrayElite Posted July 13 Report Share Posted July 13 Ordered and received the aftermarket ST grill from eBay. Now the search is on for black Ford oval emblems. I have found the rear and varying options for the front. Trying to figure out the difference between the SE, SEL and Titanium and the ST/ST line emblems. Apparently there is a difference between them but I can’t pinpoint what that is. Window tint is scheduled for the end of the month. Looking at a custom leather steering wheel wrap as the next update. Looking for the red to match the interior along with perforated black combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1004ron Posted September 2 Report Share Posted September 2 On 6/26/2026 at 6:17 AM, Brandon123 said: Update on the edge. So apparently because the diff is broken it can now somewhat do burnouts and drift. I haven't yet seen drifting done with FWD so hoping your video will be the first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garycrist Posted September 2 Report Share Posted September 2 I remember Fiat 128 FWD. Hit the corner hard enough and the inside rear wheel would come off the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted September 15 Report Share Posted September 15 Have a local mechanic (was a Ford technician, worked for couple of dealers before going out on his own.) Had him rotate tires, change the engine oil, transmission fluid, PTU oil, and power steering fluid. Will change brake fluid next year, and new water pump (etc.) around 175,000 miles. (He drops engine and changes everything while its out.) Asked for a good look over and told him to just go ahead and fix it, no need to call unless going over a grand. He said he checked everything and couldn't find anything to fix. Really appreciate an honest, qualified mechanic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TourGuide Posted October 16 Report Share Posted October 16 Recently - Had a coolant flush done. Today - New spark plugs, serpentine belt, and had the brake pad slides lubed for some low speed squeaks. At 90.5K just following the proactive maintenance path versus the deferred. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted October 16 Report Share Posted October 16 13 hours ago, TourGuide said: and had the brake pad slides lubed for some low speed squeaks. I am having brake squeaks (groans?) at very slow speeds, like when trying to creep or at the end of brake just when coming to a complete stop or when releasing the brakes slowly. I was thinking that the slide pins needed lubrication as I don't recall my mechanic doing so. Did the lubing cure the noises for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TourGuide Posted October 17 Report Share Posted October 17 I wouldn't say the lube totally cured it, but it helped a great deal. I recently had the brakes done (pads, rotors, both axles) and when I got it back the low speed squeaking started - so I suspected they had not lubed the slides or pad surfaces well enough or at all. I went back on this trip and had a can of purple ceramic permatex ready to use on the steering wheel. They did (I can see it) and I am convinced it helped a bunch. Now, I get a very slight squeak for just a second or two when slowing starting out - disappears at speeds above 5-10 mph. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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