shacho Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 I noticed the other day that the driver side door on my 2011 Ford Edge Limited isn't flush with the frame/rear door. I adjusted the tang/latch to pull the door closer to the frame but that didn't work. I'm wondering if this is a manufacture defect/aligment over-site. Also, if I put my face to the door window, I can feel cool air coming in. Just wondering if anybody have noticed whether or not this door alignment issue exist on their vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Post a pic so we can see what the issue is? Is it aligned on the fender side of the door? How much is it off? Closes with no problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shacho Posted November 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Yes, it is aligned on the fender side and the door closes without any problems. I had a body shop to validate what I was looking at and he noticed it also and said, "ajusting the tang/latch would pull the door in. I tried that and nothing changed. I will take pics tomorrow and post. It's not noticable to the average person, I noticed it when I was polishing/waxing it a couple of weeks ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 I have a similar issue, but with the rear left door. Also tried to adjust the door striker (the part on the body where the door latches to), but it did not seem to change. I feel like there is a different way to adjust the alignment on these cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 (edited) Since the frame of reference is relative, either the front or the rear door or both could need alignment. Here are the instructions for a 2007: Door Adjustment — Front NOTE: LH door shown, RH door similar. NOTE: Make sure the rear door is within specifications before making any adjustments to the front door. For additional information, refer to Section 501-35 . Remove the front fender. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .Mark the position of the front door hinges to use as a reference point.Loosen the 2 front door lower hinge-to-body bolts just enough to permit movement.Loosen the 2 front door upper hinge-to-body bolts just enough to permit movement.Loosen the front door upper hinge locator pin nut just enough to permit movement.Adjust the front door to specifications. For additional information, refer to Section 501-35 .Tighten the front door upper hinge-to-body bolts in the order shown. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft). Tighten the front door upper hinge locator pin nut. Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Install the front fender. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 . Door Adjustment — Rear Remove the B-pillar trim panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05 .Mark the positions of the rear door hinges to use as reference points.Loosen the 2 lower interior rear door hinge-to-body nuts just enough to permit movement.Loosen the 2 upper interior rear door hinge-to-body bolts just enough to permit movement.Loosen the exterior upper rear door hinge locator pin nut just enough to permit movement.Adjust the rear door to specifications. For additional information, refer to Section 501-35 .Tighten the interior upper rear door hinge-to-body nuts in the order shown. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft). Tighten the exterior upper rear door hinge-to-body nut. Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Check the front door adjustments. For additional information, refer to Door Adjustment — Front in this section.Install the B-pillar trim panel. For additional information, refer to Section 501-05 . Edited November 19, 2014 by WWWPerfA_ZN0W 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar302 Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 WWWPerfA_ZN0W, Thanks for posting this. But my (& OP's I believe) issue is that the door seems to need to be closed a little bit further, not really aligning the door, but just to make the door shut closer to the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Absolutely. I posted the alignment procedure for GK purposes, since the topic was brought up. Not sure I see anything in these instructions either to help the door close tighter to the body, but a body shop would know far better than I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shacho Posted November 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 (edited) Pictures of the driver door closed and the striker hook I adjusted the striker inward as far as possible and the alignment stayed the same. As you can see the driver door molding is not flush with the rear door molding. Hmm? Edited November 19, 2014 by shacho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordService Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 I noticed the other day that the driver side door on my 2011 Ford Edge Limited isn't flush with the frame/rear door. I adjusted the tang/latch to pull the door closer to the frame but that didn't work. I'm wondering if this is a manufacture defect/aligment over-site. Also, if I put my face to the door window, I can feel cool air coming in. Just wondering if anybody have noticed whether or not this door alignment issue exist on their vehicle. I have a similar issue, but with the rear left door. Also tried to adjust the door striker (the part on the body where the door latches to), but it did not seem to change. I feel like there is a different way to adjust the alignment on these cars. Hey guys, I recommend setting an appointment with your local Ford Dealer. Locate a dealer near you, and set up an appointment here. What’s the current mileage on your vehicles? Once this info is received, I’ll look into available options to assist. Since the frame of reference is relative, either the front or the rear door or both could need alignment. Here are the instructions for a 2007: Door Adjustment — Front NOTE: LH door shown, RH door similar. NOTE: Make sure the rear door is within specifications before making any adjustments to the front door. For additional information, refer to Section 501-35 . Remove the front fender. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .Mark the position of the front door hinges to use as a reference point.Loosen the 2 front door lower hinge-to-body bolts just enough to permit movement.Loosen the 2 front door upper hinge-to-body bolts just enough to permit movement.Loosen the front door upper hinge locator pin nut just enough to permit movement.Adjust the front door to specifications. For additional information, refer to Section 501-35 .Tighten the front door upper hinge-to-body bolts in the order shown. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft). Tighten the front door upper hinge locator pin nut. Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Install the front fender. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 ... WWWPerfA_ZN0W, Thanks for providing such great info! You rock, and have a great day! Tricia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shacho Posted November 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 (edited) Hey guys, I recommend setting an appointment with your local Ford Dealer. Locate a dealer near you, and set up an appointment here. What’s the current mileage on your vehicles? Once this info is received, I’ll look into available options to assist. WWWPerfA_ZN0W, Thanks for providing such great info! You rock, and have a great day! Tricia My 2011 Edge Limited has 29,850 and counting Edited November 19, 2014 by shacho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Pictures of the driver door closed and the striker hook I adjusted the striker inward as far as possible and the alignment stayed the same. As you can see the driver door molding is not flush with the rear door molding. Hmm? I see what you mean. Is it "off" more at the top of the door than the bottom? Hopefully no "shaving" or trimming of metal parts is needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shacho Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 The bottom area looks ok. The top is really noticeable when looking at it via the side mirror. All-in-all, the Edge Limited is an awesome vehicle to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulSchott Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 It looks like the hinges need to be adjusted. Is the hinge side of the door pulled in more on the bottom than the top? If it isn't than the door may be warped. I'm not suggesting this but my buddies body shop used to fix stuff like this by blocking the door on the bottom with a wood block and pushing the top section of the door to twist it into the correct position. If your under warrantee bring it in and let Ford figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shacho Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 It looks like the hinges need to be adjusted. Is the hinge side of the door pulled in more on the bottom than the top? If it isn't than the door may be warped. I'm not suggesting this but my buddies body shop used to fix stuff like this by blocking the door on the bottom with a wood block and pushing the top section of the door to twist it into the correct position. If your under warrantee bring it in and let Ford figure it out. I will definitely inspect the hinges this weekend if the weather permits. As for the warranty, my 36 months are up, however I did get an extended warranty at the time of purchase. Hopefully, this door issue is included if not, it's all good. Roll Tide!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 I looked at the driver side door today, and it is every so slightly out at both top & bottom. No problem. I do however need to spray some silicone on the weatherstripping as the weather's getting to be pretty cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CinnamonEdge Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 It might be that the back door needs to be adjusted or shimmed out on the top hinge to bring it out more in order to make it flush with the drivers door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shacho Posted November 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 It might be that the back door needs to be adjusted or shimmed out on the top hinge to bring it out more in order to make it flush with the drivers door. Hmm, never thought about that. I will call the dealership closest to my location and inquire about whether or not my warranty cover such issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdgeOn Posted December 26, 2020 Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 (edited) I have EXACT same issue with my front driver's door, but includes an annoying subtle somewhat of a whistling noise from the top corner next to my ear when driving in excess of 45 mph. 2011 Ford Edge SEL Black 130K. I'm going to attempt to adjusting striker plate considering the seals appear to still be like-new around all doors. (although I don't think the striker plate holes are adjustable, I believe they are just large enough for the bolts to fit thru., as in, no room to slide striker in closer to frame.) In that case, only thing I can think of doing will be to enlarge seals whether by replacing with new or filling them with either surgical tubing or foam rope. Right? [Please ignore the cardboard box that temporarily was sitting behind the XS Power Super Bank Capacitor Battery SB1500-75 at time of taking photo] DEC 2020 will be the last month of having this car audio system build set-up because I'm upgrading from 1 Skar DNR 15" 5K RMS w/ Taramps Bass 8K @ 1-ohm.. to.. 2 Fi Neo 4.11 15"s w/ 2 Taramps Bass 8Ks but at 0.7-ohm all lithium batts equating to 20,000 RMS Watts!! Yes I'm a Car Audio Basshead Fanatic. See videos of past and current builds on my YouTube channel: Brandon Lee Edited December 26, 2020 by EdgeOn added info about photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handfiler Posted December 27, 2020 Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 Maybe all that bass warped the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enigma-2 Posted December 28, 2020 Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 Check the gaskets, especially on the bottom of the door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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