2.7L Aluminum oil pan Edge Sport - oil pressure issue

[Musketeer]

I am plagued with the dreaded oil leak. I have the ebay gasket waiting to be put on a new oil pan. I came across these alumnium oil pan on ali express and ebay. Has anyone seen or used these products?

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256801712267930.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165955245815?hash=item26a3b416f7:g:UdYAAOSwn8BkhrPH&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4G7hAjNbZX5VB7p6kXLDTENFu%2Fwl47BZC2VT3TR6n6hCpR0AzwI7nUzfUO%2BZ2VEWe5GPl06FoEQiAa5N4S4ffuzzNeqZRo1b5%2BrkQn9R8vixYXAGZ%2F8k%2BlZHS%2FcTO7x7XYC3QFNQ8OyDgnbJCaFQKQVSrnyeO68sT7pFidImFpKISmdRdEd6%2F%2B2esQfxuUobmJ95%2BT5j9HMchLY9RbQScvmyWqEf8vfdIwTuW2K4HlRG9KxXzxqzMK1Jh2nzNk6cFtz5QvyxNO1RMk6bo1T7TURiFWASzTG95rbSo5vS9GAk|tkp%3ABFBMrvjNhMBi

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125814640685?hash=item1d4b23102d:g:9zMAAOSw-QlkgaFG&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8NGWf3oFXW%2BADMsTd%2FWh4IKN0lKJQB0bbeur3tsniDNspBY%2BFdcriFlQVsFKun9kCJaGX6ZrAQrcKfbr8nbNOEmmFO7pkUTxDiuP0znzUcVR2JEaCEo5sZOd%2FbGJsKffBW6vFayWpAyM%2B96e40DYKG2Etfxx8EZzSTf3ZpfVla%2Fhcx69u9qwvtQGLdYsaLSgrssyg4RPI51RtwdKKwIkxqGfyiTUKPYUnOverYKvHERWGkD2MSUCW7HojBpvHlE0QortumxnFucUJVLBdGiAqfK4Qg75xBXVXneNMEBpCBqICj6Hu4Nu4eEs3HHPnxXZkw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR96DhIXAYg

 

[handfiler]

They lost me at "Cold-Rolled Steel"

 

 

[Musketeer]

aliexpress is horrible on desktop. try mobile instead if it does not show up

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101579396?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_saleItems.pcShopHead_6000362899763.0

Edited August 17, 2023 by Musketeer

[omar302]

It is promising to see an aftermarket solution, however, I would be concerned with the fact that it does not come with a gasket. Meaning you still have to use the RTV gasket and hope it cures/sticks correctly, which is the problem. Only now we don't know if it would stick better or worse with an aluminum pan.

 

Ford's solution on later 2018+ F-150 (TSB) was an updated plastic oil pan that has a press-in-place gasket. If this was a similar solution I would have been more optimistic.

[Musketeer]

One of everyone's big complaint was that because they used a plastic pan. The block and pan had different thermal expansion, which contributed to the leaking problem.

 

The solution many have been doing before is making there own gasket between the pan and block. Sandwich with rtv

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224464515504?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=SvoaLbYSQcm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5Xg0FXR1SMm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[enigma-2]

I read over in the 150 forum that the aluminum pan does NOT fit the 2.7 ecoboost engine. 

 

From everything I've read, it's the quality of the aftermarket silicon gasket job that in question. Apparently the trick is to get both mating surfaces spotless. No oil. Means spraying with brake clean then wiping down with clean towels. Then leave everything sit for an extended period for cure.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

24 hr minimum sealing time required per ford for resealing the oil pan. little interest has been shown by people in helping develop a real gasket for this engine, unfortunately.

[omar302]

As per the TSB, in addition to the brake parts cleaner, also "engine shampoo & degreaser", "Silicone Gasket Remover" and "Metal Surface Prep Wipes" are used in during the replacement of the oil pan. 

MC-10164418-0001.pdf

[enigma-2]

2 hours ago, omar302 said:

As per the TSB, in addition to the brake parts cleaner, also "engine shampoo & degreaser", "Silicone Gasket Remover" and "Metal Surface Prep Wipes" are used in during the replacement of the oil pan. 

MC-10164418-0001.pdf

 

12 hours labor!!!!   Let's see, at $80/hr that's  ....... ridiculous. 

 

 

Should make this a sticky for future members.

[dabangsta]

2 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

 

12 hours labor!!!!   Let's see, at $80/hr that's  ....... ridiculous. 

 

I would say that most places $150 and up is what the going rate is. Many simple diagnostics are over $200 just due to that 1 hour of labor. Add in a machine and something that takes wait time (but you have to time it right) and it is down right insane.

[enigma-2]

35 minutes ago, dabangsta said:

I would say that most places $150 and up is what the going rate is. Many simple diagnostics are over $200 just due to that 1 hour of labor. Add in a machine and something that takes wait time (but you have to time it right) and it is down right insane.

 

Man was I out of it. Looked up AAA for my area and it showed $150/hr. What the sam hell? I'm so used to "got a warranty" and never pay, I wasn't paying attention.

 

(saving face) "I was quoting pre-Covid" prices. (cough, cough).

 

Also on the website "changing a fuse, $10 - $50. A FUSE!  Damn. I'm coming out of retirement. 

[Musketeer]

21 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

I read over in the 150 forum that the aluminum pan does NOT fit the 2.7 ecoboost engine. 

 

From everything I've read, it's the quality of the aftermarket silicon gasket job that in question. Apparently the trick is to get both mating surfaces spotless. No oil. Means spraying with brake clean then wiping down with clean towels. Then leave everything sit for an extended period for cure.

From what I've read over the years they were trying to swap the metal pan from the 3.5l and it's a no go. These pans are specifically for the 2.7t. I am just now finding them online but have periodically searched and never seen any. Now they are all over ebay. I wonder if overseas the 2.7 is finally getting some love. On aliexpress that's a mkx w/2.7 being used. I have the same vehicle 

[enigma-2]

Well, the talk over there is the aluminum pan doesn't fit, seems I read some time back that someone tried it. Maybe there's a difference between the truck version and the CUV version? 

 

If I were you, I'd wait to find someone who's actually tried the install. I don't remember anyone successfully doing it, but I haven't really followed the subject too carefully. 

 

Perhaps if you talked with the local Ford Garage Service Manager? These guys are really knowledgeable on the basic problems and if anyone has done this, they may know about it. Never hurts to stop by and ask, I've done it probably too many times; got a reputation for questions, questions, questions. But I've found that my local SM loves to answer questions, including going to the area rep and even Ford Engineering, for answers. He has so much knowledge and no one ever asks him what he thinks. 

 

Another way to go, is to make certain the Ebay seller specifically states In the listing, that it will fit your exact engine (again, in writing) & that  you can return it, if it fails to fit.

 

I wish the best for you, i hate oil leaks,  but it seams to me, that a good due job, on the existing plastic pan, is what's really required. If it was my car, I'd have the Lincoln Garage do the job and get a warranty on it. But for the cost of a 12 hour repair, it would have to be a lifetime warranty !!!

 

 

[Musketeer]

12 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

Well, the talk over there is the aluminum pan doesn't fit, seems I read some time back that someone tried it. Maybe there's a difference between the truck version and the CUV version? 

 

If I were you, I'd wait to find someone who's actually tried the install. I don't remember anyone successfully doing it, but I haven't really followed the subject too carefully. 

 

Perhaps if you talked with the local Ford Garage Service Manager? These guys are really knowledgeable on the basic problems and if anyone has done this, they may know about it. Never hurts to stop by and ask, I've done it probably too many times; got a reputation for questions, questions, questions. But I've found that my local SM loves to answer questions, including going to the area rep and even Ford Engineering, for answers. He has so much knowledge and no one ever asks him what he thinks. 

 

Another way to go, is to make certain the Ebay seller specifically states In the listing, that it will fit your exact engine (again, in writing) & that  you can return it, if it fails to fit.

 

I wish the best for you, i hate oil leaks,  but it seams to me, that a good due job, on the existing plastic pan, is what's really required. If it was my car, I'd have the Lincoln Garage do the job and get a warranty on it. But for the cost of a 12 hour repair, it would have to be a lifetime warranty !!!

 

 

I bought the truck during covid from an out of state subaru dealer with a mediocore warranty. But it was enough to get the oil pan done and replace my front camera and wire harness. warranty company sent me to bmw dealer who did the pan and sent it to ford for the harness.  took them 4 months to do. oil pan leaked within a year from that ?

[Mistro399]

Hello. New to the forum so hopefully I’m doing this correctly. Bought a used 2016 Edge Sport 2.7l with 106k miles. Great maintenance history, it’s a Canadian version now in WA state. Had it pre-inspected by mechanic and only issue found was oil pan had a small gasket leak. Mechanic replaced with Dorman OE aluminum pan. When on the freeway at 70mph I can accelerate hard and every time at 82 mph and around 5,600 rpm it cuts out suddenly, then a few seconds later the “Low Engine Oil Pressure” warning flashes for one second and then everything runs normal. No engine light, no code, and no code to clear in the system after the warning. I don’t know if it did this prior as we took it straight in to get fixed. Oil looks perfect, mechanic states oil looked perfect when he inspected pan, inlet tube, and so forth. 
Ford states it is not “limp mode” and it is not a speed or rpm limiter setting issue as that would give warnings and shut down cylinders. I see 3 Admin keys in the system but no mykey. My mechanic had it hooked up to diagnostics computer and drove it for 1/2 an hour and made it repeat the issue every time. He replaced oil pressure sending unit. No change. My mechanic states Ford should wipe out admin keys, and start fresh with factory ECM/Transmission settings. Ford said that won’t do anything.

 

 

Oil pressure maxes out at about 40 psi under hard acceleration, and mechanic states it looks to be working great so he doesn’t think it is an oil pump issue. Mechanic states he has used these oil pans on dozens of edges and never had an issue. He is stumped. Any thoughts? 

 

Edited May 8, 2025 by 1004ron

[1004ron]

42 minutes ago, Mistro399 said:

Hello. New to the forum so hopefully I’m doing this correctly. Bought a used 2016 Edge Sport 2.7l with 106k miles. Great maintenance history, it’s a Canadian version now in WA state. Had it pre-inspected by mechanic and only issue found was oil pan had a small gasket leak. Mechanic replaced with Dorman OE aluminum pan. When on the freeway at 70mph I can accelerate hard and every time at 82 mph and around 5,600 rpm it cuts out suddenly, then a few seconds later the “Low Engine Oil Pressure” warning flashes for one second and then everything runs normal. No engine light, no code, and no code to clear in the system after the warning. I don’t know if it did this prior as we took it straight in to get fixed. Oil looks perfect, mechanic states oil looked perfect when he inspected pan, inlet tube, and so forth. 
Ford states it is not “limp mode” and it is not a speed or rpm limiter setting issue as that would give warnings and shut down cylinders. I see 3 Admin keys in the system but no mykey. My mechanic had it hooked up to diagnostics computer and drove it for 1/2 an hour and made it repeat the issue every time. He replaced oil pressure sending unit. No change. My mechanic states Ford should wipe out admin keys, and start fresh with factory ECM/Transmission settings. Ford said that won’t do anything.

Oil pressure maxes out at about 40 psi under hard acceleration, and mechanic states it looks to be working great so he doesn’t think it is an oil pump issue. Mechanic states he has used these oil pans on dozens of edges and never had an issue. He is stumped. Any thoughts? 

 

Welcome.

 

If the engine cuts out it's expected that the low oil pressure light comes ON.

 

I think you should find a more qualified mechanic or consider a good Ford dealership.

 

They changed the low oil pressure switch, but maybe they should have looked at the oil pressure regulating valve?

 

I recommend using Forscan to scan for codes.

 

Post some detail on the OE oil pan.

 

 

[omar302]

2 hours ago, Mistro399 said:

Oil pressure maxes out at about 40 psi under hard acceleration

 

Shouldn't it go higher? I remember at idle it it should around 20 something and it can reach 70 something on load. 

 

Edit: found a screenshot I made here before.

[Mistro399]

1 hour ago, omar302 said:

 

Shouldn't it go higher? I remember at idle it it should around 20 something and it can reach 70 something on load. 

 

Edit: found a screenshot I made here before.

I thought the same thing? I thought 50-65 was normal and 70 should be fine at high rpm’s. Guess I’ll call a different dealership. Thanks!

[Cossie]

I’m having exactly the same problem. I replaced the OEM oil pan with an aluminum one, and the issue cropped up on the highway at 170 km/h—or at around 145 km/h in "S" mode. In city and country driving, the car runs perfectly normally—just as zippy and agile as ever. It just doesn't like high speeds anymore. I’ve ordered an oil pressure sensor and a new oil filter. If that doesn't work, would I have to switch back to the plastic pan?

[Samurai Edge]

Mistro399:  Did you ever solve this problem?

 

To both Mistro399 and Cossie:

You didn't state under what conditions the engine shut off has occurred.  Were you driving in a straight line or taking corners when this issue rises?

 

I have no idea what specific aluminum pan you are both referring to but it sounds like a possible  oil starvation issue.

Not knowing the specific internal design of the aluminum pan vs the OEM pan leaves a big unknown.

Just because something will fit does not necessarily make it a good choice.

[omar302]

2 hours ago, Samurai Edge said:

Not knowing the specific internal design of the aluminum pan vs the OEM pan leaves a big unknown.

Just because something will fit does not necessarily make it a good choice.

+1

Also, as the design changed between 2015-2017 compared to newer models, does it have the correct check valve for the PCV. 

[Cossie]

Hello Samurai Edge, 

I’ve been getting this error message on my Sport (2.7L, 108k) ever since I installed the aluminum oil pan. The vehicle doesn't shut off; it just briefly throttles the speed and continues driving normally, though it won't go faster than 170 km/h. My car has had its speed limiter removed; previously, it was capped at 211 km/h -2018 Import to Germany. After the unlock in 2019, I did a test run up to 244 km/h—which was fast enough for me. I first noticed the issue during an overtaking maneuver that I couldn't complete because the car slowed me down. Up to 170 km/h, the car drives completely normally. In Sport mode (S), the error kicks in earlier (at 145 km/h) than in Drive mode (D). The plastic oil pan was replaced, and I suspect the issue lies with the intake pipe in the center of the pan. The plastic version has a wider oil inlet there, whereas the aluminum pan has very little clearance milled out around the pickup pipe. I don't know for sure if that's the reason, though.

[Samurai Edge]

This looks like your oil pan:

https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-oil-pan-ft4z6675d

 

What I am not seeing / finding is an oil pan pick-up anywhere I look.

 

That could be the problem right there.  The oil pick-up, being smaller on the aluminum pan sounds like the culprit.

A smaller than designed oil pick-up could create an oil starvation issue, but that's my thought.

 

When you look at the oil pick-up area on the OEM pan, it looks like that white " plastic cover " creates a larger area for the oil to gather for pick-up into the motor.

The aluminum pan has no such area but pick up directly from the open pan area.

A typical oil pick-up has section at the end of the pick-up tube that sits bathed in the oil to suck in the oil in the pan.

I think the OEM white " plastic cover " is that section I described above which is clearly missing from the aluminum pan.

 

Presuming you didn't change anything else, looks like you know your issue.

[omar302]

17 minutes ago, Samurai Edge said:

That could be the problem right there.  The oil pick-up, being smaller on the aluminum pan sounds like the culprit.

A smaller than designed oil pick-up could create an oil starvation issue, but that's my thought.

+1

I am not able to see what it picks up. The hole seems closed off and as if it can't suck any oil!!

Also, as there is an oil pressure sensor, the engine output is probably being cut when pressure is dropping. And on S being earlier is probably because it doesn't upshift to 6th and engine speed is staying at a higher RPM longer compared to D where it would upshift to 6th. 

[Cossie]

Thanks for your Answer, 

That’s what I suspect, too. The design of the intake pipe cover allows more engine oil to accumulate, ensuring it gets drawn in. In the aluminum pan, there is likely too much turbulence at speed, which hinders the intake process. So, I’ll probably have to buy a plastic pan—if I can still find one. My search has revealed that none of the spare parts suppliers in the USA ship to Germany.