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Even though I never put a wrench to my Edge, except for maintenance, It’s been nice using this forum to learn a lot about it. I just had an itch to upgrade my car. I hope it’s as reliable as the Edge as there are lots gadgets on this thing. I now have a 2025 Lincoln Aviator reserve 2.

UPDATE, I did the same thing fishx65, used one of those Velcro pads and wedged it under the clip. No more rattle! What a nightmare that Ford could not figure this out. Thanks for this Forum.

Checked my records and the failed pads are Centric Posi Quiet - definitely avoid those. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/centric-posi-quiet-pad-delamination-on-both-sides-pic-included.356932/ .

Today I installed the RH CV Axle. The only battle I had was extracting the axle - all YT videos show smacking the inner joint with a hammer - I even went to Lowes to get a heavier hammer, and that didn't work - see the section of all-thread and nut in the photos - I cut a length of all-thread to fit snugly between the inner joint and a bolt head on the PTU, then holding it with a pliers I backed the nut out and as it reached the end of its thread the axle was free to extract - way better than beating on it. The I noticed the friction material had come off the outboard brake pad - went to Autozone and got a set of new pads - found the same thing on the LH. The LH CV Axle cured the vibration but I could still just a little at exactly 60mph with acceleration - that is gone now. The inner joint on the RH axle had similar wear divots, just not as deep - the lubricant didn't run out like oil as was the case with the LH, but it looked an odd brown color.

I have the official printed version of the wiring diagram for the 2018 Edge. There is a good chance it is the same as the 2017. It shows that there is only one version of the wiring diagram for the headlamps. I think this is a pretty reliable source. It shows many instances where there are different wiring schemes for different equipment on the car. There are three fuses. F62 and F67. Both are 50amp that go to the BCM. One for each side. The third is a shared 10 amp, F20. (this might be for the HID igniter). I think there is a very good chance that they will work with the existing hardware and require a change with Forscan only.

Looks like the issue is solved. It appears that the previous owner hit a curb or something quite hard with the left rear wheel. It shifted the subframe slightly and bent the control arm. On dry roads there was enough resistance on the rubber that it didn't slip but as soon as it hit slippery the left wheel that was out of alignment would slip causing the swaying. I assume the tires were wearing badly which is why they put the new tires on it before selling the vehicle. Wasn't super expensive to repair. Alignment is good and runs nice and straight on ice now.

"Sometimes..."? I think most times. The search functionality on these forums is just not very good. Not just this forum, but almost all forums I visit. I have never had much luck finding anything on any of the forums I am on. But your advice about using Google is spot on. It even sometimes brings you to the very thread in a forum you were trying to find! Very frustrating.

I haven't heard of a software configuration that could be manipulated by the likes of Forscan. The RDU coupler can be disconnected which will make it permanent FWD.

This problem seems to happen with many Fords. My battery is almost 6 years old now. I have had the symptoms for about a year now. No start stop, radio powers off, no Fordpass, no keyless entry, etc. However, AGM batteries do a better job at hiding symptoms of a bad battery than lead acid. An old AGM battery will still start the car, but the battery will be very slow to accept charge. Some battery testers can be fooled by AGM batteries. Conductance testers estimate battery health by sending a tiny AC signal into the battery. AGM batteries will often show normal voltage, okay conductance, and acceptable internal resistance even when the battery is old and nearly worn out. Battery testers that actually put a real load on the battery will reveal the true battery health. The Edge is equipped with a slightly smaller H6 battery, while the Lincoln Nautilus is equipped with a slightly larger H7 battery.

Does the Edge have an undersized alternator? I do drive many short distances, but it only takes a couple of trips for the start-stop (yes, I know everyone hates that) to stop working and in about ten days, I get the battery saver message and all but the driver's door cannot be locked/unlocked from the outside. I have had the battery checked and replaced, but the problem did not go away. I bought an AC battery charger (Battery Tender) that plugs into my cigarette plug. I keep it on the charger when I am at home. It is a pain since I have to roll down a window to plug it in, but I do not want to get stuck somewhere. I have the first electric Edge!

being a computer guy, finally getting a vehicle with a computer and way to eff around with was peak curiosity. So far i have done the following using Forscan: Police Mode locked gear shift - Enabled Double Honk when running and exiting - Disabled Turn Signal flashes when tapped - 6 (increased from the default 3) Seat Belt Chimes - Disabled Door Ajar Chimes - Disabled Key Fob Remote Window Close - Enabled (only remote window open was enabled) Police Dark Car Mode - Enabled Silent Mode on Left Cluster Screen - Added SiriusXM as a media source - Disabled SiriusXM Travel Link - Disabled Climate Section on Right Cluster Screen - Enabled Sync3 Splash Screen - Raptor (changed from the default Ford logo) Auto Door Relock - 30 Seconds (lowered from 45 seconds) the only other things i was going to do in Forscan at this time from what i read were: - add the option to disable DRL into the IPC and enable the ability to do disable (being in Canada its mandatory to be enabled) - remove the turn signal from always being illuminated and only being active when turning (i think i saw someone do this on an earlier page - pg6 maybe) i updated Sync3.0 to Sync3.4 using Synupdater3 from Cyanlabs....such a nicer look and feel. i was also scanning through https://www.fmods.net/ but haven't yet done any mods or app installs but some do intrigue me.

i'll just pick up a set of glossy blacks vs getting them painted as they are beat up over the last 8yrs.

Good news, keeping the edge. Got it fixed cheap, probably gonna fall apart in a few years but hopefully get me through college.

Feeling adventurous? These go in your side mirrors. $18 https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/2-amber-33-smd-sequential-led-arrows-for-car-side-mirror-turn-signal-lights https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/2-super-red-33-smd-sequential-led-arrows-for-car-side-mirror-turn-signal-lights

My current edge has this problem and I am pretty sure it is a tire tread pattern issue with grooved pavement. The bridgestones I'm driving on came new with this car (used purchase) and they have three deep center channels that run the circumference of the tire. It is my theory that these channel edges catch the grooves and walk with them until they change direction leading to the 'walk back and forth' motion from the rear end. It is my belief that any tire with pronounced center channels will have this problem. I've driven the same grooved roads before with nokian tires and not experienced the same motion. This is my professional amateur pseudoscientific theory of tire drift on grooved pavement.

Or a completely new type of PTU with the disconnect?

New CV Axle installed and a trip on the interstate confirms that was the issue all this time. Much easier job than the control arm replacement and with that said I might just go ahead and replace the right side. The old inner joint felt just a little rough and the reason can be seen in the photos - also the lube appeared to be gear oil, not a grease, or maybe it was grease when it started out.

I agree. When it comes to parts you can't go wrong with OEM. It's a no brainer. But when it comes to lubricants, in many cases there are better options. And there are some good ones: Amsoil, Red Line and Motul are by far the best. The key is Full Synthetic. I plan on going with Red Line for my PTU/RDU. Any suggestions from you guys on the transmission fluid? That's the one I haven't done any research on.

Directly can i add four front sensors and connect to BCM then works ? It means does not need calibration for touch screen?

Did you change the actual instrument cluster (IPC) to the Lincoln/Mondeo/EU model? The circles only work on the Lincoln/Mondeo/Eau cluster.

I actually found it at O'Rielly's https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/standard-ignition/lighting---electrical/connectors---terminals/parking-aid-sensor-connector/f150988703f7/standard-ignition-3-terminal-parking-assist-sensor-connector/std0/s2393/v/a/92778/automotive-suv-2010-ford-edge?q=parking+aid+sensor+connector Hoping to install it soon, but also need to find the bracket that holds the sensor in place on the bumper.

Sometimes more than not it can be a challenge to locate a specific thread on this forum. Even if you go to a specific sub forum, if you don't have the wording exact, you may not be able to find the thread. One thing you can do is google a specific issue or subject related to the Ford Edge and it will direct you to a thread/post within this Ford Edge Forum.

AWD and 4WD are very different. I don't think whatever you are trying to do is even worth trying. If you want 4WD, buy a vehicle with 4WD. What Edge and what year do you have. For example, the Edge ST has an AWD Sport Mode (double tap the ESC button) that makes the AWD system much more active and aggressive. What model/year do you have?

No, they're not the same.

I really dislike the touch screen when I want to engage with setting my vents and recirculation controls. I have to press the main button, at the bottom of the screen, then the recirculation button is all the way at the top of the screen. Its counter intuitive in my opinion and distracting to do when driving. Is there ANY way or third party UI to override so that I can place buttons on the screen where I want?

All manufacturers are having problems hiring techs. All the kids want to be management.

I realized that. It was -1°C.

Got it. It's an IMPA camera?

Monro quality has gone down the tubes. They used to be so good but we don't even use them at my shop anymore.

My dealer did mine a few years ago, as per the TSB, no issues so far. Just FYI that the TSB fix is holding.

Your SEL has the IKT (the key start, key has the remote fob on the head). There are aftermarket remote starts that are easy to add that use the factory key (usually lock/unlock/lock sequence). You have to have 2 already programmed keys to successfully use the aftermarket kits.

Oh yes I am aware that that would need to be done and can be done in Forscan. Thanks though.

Yep, this is exactly what i am planning out but was on the fence between amber & white but am bending towards the amber. stock chrome rims are still on also, will be getting some nice black rims after winter. stuck on though if i want to stick with the 18's or upsize to 19's. i do work that takes me out on the grids sometimes so i am not sure how the 20's would fare with less rubber on the rough roads.

2022 Ttanium Thanks for the add

Please add that to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

There are many grills available online. Search "Ford Edge Grill Black." I have attached a picture of one that is available.

My PTU made a noise similar to this before they replaced it. Gets louder with speed. (Lack of lubrication.) .

I almost always have this "issue" with new tires, especially Michelins. But after a couple of thousand miles, it goes away. I still stick with Michelins, as I've been using them forever, and never had any problems with them (above temporary issue noted).

After re-reading previous, on the standard hvac setups, the heat/cold is controlled by an actuator on one side or the other (forget which) and has a plastic rod that extends over to the other side to control that side. I've seen a report where the rod broke. (I think it controlled the passenger sidevand the rod simultaneously controlled the drivers side. Easiest way to check is to watch the heat/cool door on the drivers side and switch between heat & a/c. If the passenger door moves but the drivers doesn't, you found your problem. If both move, the core is partly clogged. On the duel systems, each side is controlled separately with separate actuators. There is a history of these actuators failing in the Ford line. Its possible that the core is clogged again. Rather uncommon however. Most common cause is by using different coolants. Mix the wrong types are they congel forming a thick goo, and block part of the heater core. Never read where a flush cleared it. Think it would be better to disconnect the heater hoses and do a power flush just on the heater core. I did this many years ago by connecting the harden hose to one side heater hose and opening the tap. (Back then, Prestone sold a kit, a tee, to tap into your heater hose with a garden hose threaded connection on the top of the tee. Designed to do a flush at each coolant change.) Anyway, it worked. (But I'm not advising. Heater cores are made cheaper today.) .

This may or may not be helpful, but with my 2019, I have to press the "s" in the center of the gear selector in order to engage sport mode. Mine then won't shift on its own, I have to use the paddles. I can control the up and down shifts with the paddles when not in sport mode without the car switching to sport mode. But it won't make a shift I command if proper conditions are not met. When it decides conditions are not met, the gear indicator light will flash. I don't use sport mode after I first tried it. I expected it to blow my hat off and it did not. This made me sad, which is now what the S stands for.

It seems to me like my transmission is bucking & shuddering at slow speeds. From what I'm seeing it may be due to the torque converter. I've already done a drain and fill on it and used Ford's fluid for it so there wouldn't be any guessing on if it was right or not. Is it possible that the transmission is already failing? My Edge has 68k miles on it and I did the first drain & fill at 50k miles. Any suggestions? 2022 Ford Edge SEL 2.0 EcoBoost 68,000 miles. Driven in upstate NY.

Replacing factory radio with a direct replacement radio and using Idatalink Maestro RR2 and add on harnesses to maintain OEM features. After everything connected I have a big mess and question if Im going to be able to shove it all in behind the radio. I have 2 questions: 1) Has anyone done this before (I have a 2018 Ford Edge Titanium)? 2) If the answer to 1 was yes, did you cut away anything in the sub dash or elsewhere to make it fit Thank you in advance Dave

I had the same issue with my Mondeo MK5. The dashboard was like a christmas tree with all the lights. I had to remove the ABS module from the car but fortunately I was able to remove just the electronic part of the module. All the pipework remained untouched. I then resoldered all the power connections on the module - these are the heavy/large connections on the PCB. I also touched up some of the other connections. If it looked bat it got soldered. This cured some of the faults, however I still have the U0415 fault showing on Forscan. At this point i used a multimeter to check continuity from the front ABS sensors to the ABS module and I found an open circuit from the signal wire on the right hand side of the car to the ABS module. I bridged out the wire by placing a wire between the ABS sensor and the module restarted forscan and the fault was gone. I have now soldered a permanent connection between the sensor and module and the car now runs perfectly. Regards John

Welcome. 14.8v seems a little high. When you replaced the battery did you reset the BMS (Battery Monitoring System)? It could also be a parasitic drain - do a search for that and you'll find a few good YouTube videos on how. Places like AutoZone have testers that check the CCA, Cranking Voltage, and Charge rates - have them do that.

SSM 52064 - 2019-2021 Edge/Nautilus - AWD - Chatter/Shudder/Grind/Bind During Low Speed Turning Events Some 2019-2021 Edge/Nautilus vehicles equipped with all-wheel drive (AWD) may exhibit a noise/vibration/chatter/shudder/grind/bind from the rear of the vehicle during low speed turning events. To correct the condition, reprogram the AWD module using the latest software level of the appropriate Ford diagnostic scan tool. For claiming use casual part RECAL and applicable labor times in Section 10 of the Service Labor Time Standards (SLTS) Manual.

Fits nicely. Although a little awkward to get it in. Peace of mind worth the jiggle. (All yours ... Go for it)

Redline MTL is the only fluid that my Mustang transmission sees. I once made the mistake of doing a drain and fill using the Amsoil equivalent and that didn't work out too well. That transmission permanently resides under my workbench now. Redline lubricants are all I use for transmission, differential (and eventually PTU) requirements.

Redline has an error for the 2019 Edge only, they are still specifying 75W140 GL5 Gear Oil. Redline specifies 75W85 GL5 Gear Oil for the 2020 Edge, and this should be the recommendation for the 2019 Edge also, as this is the year the PTU was changed. To be clear: 2015-2018 Edge 75W-140 GL5 2019-2020 Edge 75W-85 GL5 I'll just leave this comment from Redline on the the use of their ShockProof Oils: "Red Line ShockProof™ is designed for use in competition differentials and transmissions."

I have spare SJB from another Ford Edge 2008. I dissembled it and I guess it is tpms antenna: