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Of course you can BUT . . .. Adding new fluid to " top off " the old fluid does extend the use of the old fluid to some amount, but does not equal actually replacing the old fluid with fresh fluid What do you do when the fluid level of the PTU is FULL and you can't add any new gear oil? Unless you have evidence that the PTU is leaking, there is no need to add fluid. If the PTU fluid has been in there at least 20K miles, then you need to change it out completely. Forget the fact the manual says the PTU fluid is good for 30K miles. Go with that if you wish but at 20K miles, mine was a dirty, dark brown fluid. You have to remember that the PTU is sandwiched between the transmission, engine and exhaust systems. That is a pretty hostile environment, adding to the fact the amount of PTU fluid is small. And, there is no need to pull the PTU to drain the old fluid. You can literally use a vacuum unit designed for fluid removal to vacuum ( suck ) all the PTU fluid out and then pump all new fluid into the PTU for the refill. That is what I did and it works easily with zero mess.

It was her sisters, who died unexpectedly. So mostly a sentiment hesitancy.

Hi guys! Hello, I would like to share my observations about the anti-corrosion protection of our Ford Edge cars. Or more precisely - about the factory lack of this protection. My ST just turned 4 years old. The car is very nice, I like it, there will be no newer generations, Ford doesn't give a damn about cool projects, because what's more important to them is 'diversity BS' and battery-powered Mustangs (hahahah). So, when my ST was 3 years and 9 months old, I decided to give it a proper chassis maintenance. At the beginning, it was supposed to be a thorough cleaning and basic protection (wax for closed profiles, polyutherane for visible surfaces). After washing and drying the chassis and dismantling the covers, it turned out that the Ford Motor Company had practically neglected the topic of anti-corrosion protection! This is a scandal. The joints of the sheet metal elements of the bodywork are not protected against the ingress of water and oxygen - a real invitation to corrosion! There could only be one decision: dismantling the covers, covers, rear suspension, drive, diff, shaft, exhaust, tank. Then comprehensive sandblasting of the entire chassis, application of polyurethane primer, mastic to protect the joints of sheet metal, and then rubber on the chassis and in the wheel arches. Top with hot injected waxes. At the same time, the elements of the rear suspension and the tow hook were sandblasted (rubber elements, threads, etc. protected) and covered with a special varnish. Top it all with a layer of wax. The car was in the service center for 2 months (I wasn't in a hurry). The effect is fantastic and I'm glad I decided to protect this nice car. My main message here is: shame! Shame on FoMoCo for such a scandalous approach to such an important topic as anti-corrosion protection. I can't call it anything other than intentional aging of the product. Take care of your lovely STs! I'd like to share with you a video report i was given from the guys that were doing all this work. It's in Polish - pls, use YT auto translation - it's working quite nicely. Cheers.

Great to hear 1004ron ! I'm just happy I don't have to remove the wheels in the near future to install new pads. Those 21's are hea-VY. Here are a few pics of the brake calipers, as promised. Can't see them very well, but, they look a little better when the sun is not directly overhead and casting shadows.

Thank you. I've tried another reset (after trying at least three different instructions that didn't work). Pressing Power, Defrost (front), and Off at the same time resulted in horizontal segments at the beginning and two 88s displayed at the temperature values at the end, supposedly meaning a successful reset with no error codes. We'll see.

You do not need access to OASIS to find any recalls or TSBs related to your vehicle. A simple internet search for 2020 Ford Edge ST TSBs and safety recalls will provide you with that list. As to which TSBs / safety recalls have been performed on your particular vehicle, you may not be able to get that answer simply because if they were performed, the dealer most likely never documented them. That was my personal experience when I checked these for my car and discussed them with my former dealer.. TIP: If you compile a complete list of TSBs / safety recalls on your car, and you take that list to your dealer, don't be surprised if you piss them off. According to my former Ford dealer, they do not have to perform any TSBs UNLESS your car is actively having an issue related to a specific TSB. Safety recalls are different and they have to perform safety recalls. As far as the 2020 Ford Edge ST, I have found zero safety recalls that affect my car. I just noticed you are in Poland. Maybe you have better dealers there than in the U.S.

● You check your tire pressure. ● You check your transmission fluid level. ● You check your coolant level. ● You check your power steering fluid level. ● You check your brake fluid level. ● You check your oil level. ● You check your engine air filter. ● You check your cabin filter. ● You check your seat filter. ● You check your exterior. lights to verify everything's working. ...... What are you forgetting? ....... What's the one thing you should be checking but haven't since .... ???? •• Tire pressure of the spare tire, hidden away in the trunk. 🚗....

Well my question would be, why do you still have it? It seems like it's been nothing but trouble and a money pit. Is there any reason you are keeping it?

Just got updated as well new Updated SYNC to build 25213 Revision 1981

Sync updated today. Module updated was APIM 25.2.0.16.1

Winters are very weak those years. The most recent one was quite normal - as winter should be. Plenty of snow. Yes, they are using salt on the roads but this tendency, as far as i know, is declining heavily. Snow/no snow, salt/no salt is one thing. Zero anti-corrosion protection as per design - is the second thing. After all corrosion is not only about salt. It is happening 24/7.

That is a major undertaking and must cost a fortune in labor and materials but will serve you well for many years.

I took it to a mechanic who replaced two fuses (which I could not reach myself) and that fixed the interior lighting problem. Thanks for the help.

We inherited an SEL with the dual automatic HVAC a little over a year ago. The typical lousy heat, much worse on the driver's side. From what I've been told, the last owner would typically start the car and let it run about ten minutes before driving it in the winter. And (thankfully), the ridiculous engine-out water pump and why not the timing chain repair was done about two years ago. Since we've had the car, I've only managed to improve the interior heat to merely disappointing. It does have front seat heaters (SEL package?) and they do work but she doesn't want to use them. Naturally. Chronologically: Replaced the cabin filter. Needed replacing but not plugged or overly dirty. Drained coolant, disconnected the heater core hoses at the thermostat housing. Blew thru one end, with the other end draining thru a cone paint filter. A small amount of debris. I assume if I can easily blow thru the open core with 60+ year old lungs, it's not even partially plugged. Three cycles of distilled water via vacuum fill, run, drain thru a cone paint filter. Added a quart of Motorcraft VC-1 coolant flush with distilled water via vacuum refilling. Ran it for about an hour, drained again thru a cone paint filter. Even less debris recovered. Total amount of loose, coolant-colored calcium looking stuff: maybe the size of a gumball. Installed a new Motorcraft thermostat with the jiggle valve at 12:00. Vacuum-refilled with new Motorcraft coolant. Took for a test drive, seemed slightly better. Before and after this much, the car has always warmed up correctly via the dash panel gauge and doesn't overheat either. No coolant leaks. Reservoir stays at filled max level. No steam in the exhaust after warming up. Still not really acceptable to the Better Half. Removed left and right blend door actuators and replaced both with new Motorcraft. Cracked open the replaced drivers' side actuator: no broken teeth, no real wear or damage on the wiper/contacts. The driver side linkage moved by hand easily with the actuator removed. Both new actuators move when changing the temperature settings. Though I would love to see video or pictures of the blend door linkages at each end of their correct full travel. Pulled the kick panel HVAC fuse, ran the car for a bit, reinstalled the fuse. and no real change. Also never any glitches or drop-outs or lack of response from the HVAC controls. Did the system control reset thing several times but I think it only returned an 88 once. Clear, official instructions for resetting this generation of the automatic dual zone system with Sync seem hard to come by. The temps delivered by the car are about the same in both Dual on and off modes, at least from the drivers' experiences. The car has never directed air flow to the wrong locations when changing the controls. The drivers' mode actuator does move. Looks near impossible to change anyway. Cycling the recirculation button results in the air door opening and closing. Also checked the key on engine off supply voltage to the in-car temp sensor: ~4.8V. Checked resistance across the disconnected sensor: fell within the range for the given ambient temp listed in the FSM chart. Good, as that part which was near impossible to find online is listed as no longer available. Temp aspirator tube is fully connected with no splits. Also cleaned off the temp sensor before re-installation. The displayed outdoor temperature on the control panel does seem to match the actual exterior temps. Typical March: hot and cold weather. AC also seems merely barely okay but hadn't tested during triple digits yet. Would like to have it recovered, the fill valve(s) replaced, and recharged to specs but nothing to do with poor heat I assume. Still not really accepted by the Better Half; can't blame her. Not a big fan of this car. At all. What have I missed?

New battery and still no auto stop/start, 70,83,96 degree weather, sunny, rainy, cloudy, stop/go traffic and highway to city with +70% charge and nada until one day I hit the steering wheel left stick and disabled lane keeping system, boom auto stop/start began working, so I tested over several weeks and every driving condition and when lane keeping was engaged, no auto start stop, when off, it engages…. Could this because lane keeping system is draining battery charge or on a 2023 Edge ST too many resources, like a/c, AirPlay etc with lane keeping system on, is not allowing proper battery charge in warmer weather climate? I’ve had lane keeping system off now for 6 weeks and no further issues BMS was reset once after new battery was installed but prior to lane keeping system being turned off accidentally

I know this is a long post but please take the time if you have it. Thank You Part One, Friends vehicle had intermittent charge system warning light. On inspection noticed junk positive terminal and replaced. Part Two, Few months later friend informed me that vehicle had to be started with a jump pack and shut down electric loads on the system to get him home. Part three, The PRELIMINARY repair steps. A. removed battery from the vehicle full charge and test reviled good battery. B. drove vehicle 10 miles to my place to start diagnostic. C. I consulted with my alternator expert and supplier about this alternator and we discussed possible issues and parts availability. Because I did not have the alternator in hand we could not pinpoint the regulator possibly needed. Being old school in some respects I removed alternator to get it on the test bench without any other tests on vehicle. (I have been burnt by hairline cracks and bad solder joints inside alternators before and always inspect them. D. I cracked the case for my own curiosity and nothing seemed problematic with visual inspection. I took it to the alternator shop and it was determined to be a good unit. E. Alternator installed and no problems for several minutes / miles. them it acted up. The HARD CORE diagnosis begins. A. Hooked the the unit up to a proper scanner and monitored GENCOM and GENMON everything looked good scanner reported no issues or faults. I am no good with multiple numbers flashing on the screen that are an attempted to describe a wave form (this is a problem with me not the equipment or information delivery technique) I hooked up the oscilloscope to the GENCOM and GENMON and got proper wave forms. GENMON showed consistent frequency PWM and GENCOM showed consistant frequency PWM bursts when load characteristics changed. We also reset the BMS. So scanner shows no codes, no circuit faults and the wave forms look good! B. Believing that we had fallen victim to plug corrosion or seating I happily took out for a test drive monitoring the voltage with a simple OBD code reader. Everything was good till it stopped charging and threw warnings. C. The next day I hooked my bench top analogue scope to the scope to the GENCOM and GENMON using 10x probes in order not to affect the circuit I was measuring. (I only have access to the multi thousand dollar scanner during limited times by the grace of the auto mechanics school in my area.) Again the wave forms were excellent but I got lucky enough that I could force the system to fail with time and heavy load. (turned on AC and brights at idle). At this point one wave form flat lined on the rail (full on no PWM) and the other just chopped at %50 percent duty cycle and maybe 1 volt. In this abusive loading situation I would not expect the alternator to stop charging I would expect the alternator to give all it could and throw a battery light. And the fact is that it stops charging during driving RPMs as well. D. So this is a intermittent issue. I hooked the vehicle up to a high quality scanner and ran a system health check and it implied a P0620-00 GEN CONTROL error without the PCM actually throwing the code. With this information I ran the ShopKeyPro Pinpoint TestC: DTC P0620 which led me through the point to point wiring harness tests faults to ground and faults to Voltage tests. Shorted the GENMON and GENCOM and tested that there duty cycle stayed within %5 (this was a clever test) Used an actual bulb test light to make sure Vref could handle current at the alternator plug. Also per test instructions wiggled, pulled and poked all connections. Could not get this thing to give a bad reading. what a way to spend a Friday night. DTC E. My shop time was over for the week. I drove the Edge back to my place it erred out on the way so we had not gotten lucky by re seating the connections (PCM and Alternator) The next day I procured a different factory Ford / Mitsubishi alternator from a Ford edge so no voltage regulator incompatibility problems, installed it. I only started the car long enough to make sure it was charging. So here I am Sunday morning about to go see if it is fixed. If It is not I don't know where to go except change out PCM and that means new car as this one is not worth it. I'd hate to give that advice when I am simply missing something. Thank you Jeremy

I'm just an irregular guy in Kentucky. I am into most things technical. A friend has me working on his 2014 3.5L Edge and it is really smashing my interest together. auto mechanics / motor control / electronics / computer repair / discrete automation / grease monkey attitude / educated and educator attitude / and heck ignorance too. (that is why I am seeking the forums assistance.) Jeremy

Pull the center console.

Why not just re-paint it gloss black?

The dealer does not do body work (as I suspected) but he gave me the address of a body shop they use as needed. I will go to this shop next week some time and post back. Body shops are "tricky" business so I would rather go to one it's recommended by the dealer. My thanks to all

Doesn't matter which end he sprays in. If you see rust, then you have rust, plain and simple. You will not know how much rust you have in that door unless you take the door apart. Covering the rust with any type of lubricant / sealer / anti-rust compound does not make the rust go away. It masks it. The only real way to eliminate the rust is to cut it out and you will have to take a good section of the rusted area and the surrounding non-rusted area out to ensure you get it all, or as much as possible. Rust is a cancer. What you don't see is what can kill your car.

SlaveExists_ALM_Cfg It should be 726-65-01 xxx*-xxxx-xx 0 = absent 1 = present

Any luck finding the changes. I got it on the screen by changing the apim. Just not sure of the changes to make in forscan for the bcm.

Have not updated in some time. Lincoln made it through the winter with no issues. Just rolled 289K miles on it. Need to update the total cost but with the maintenance and other items I am just over $1200 into it (purchase, tags, repairs, maintenance). Car has still never failed to start and drive. The rear wiper is getting to be intermittent in it's function so I need to look at that now that it is warmer. Still uses only a pint or so of oil between changes. I need to flush and change the PTU fluid this spring and I think I have another wheel bearing that is getting a bit noisy (already have the part). Even used it as a hunting rig a couple times. Thinking about getting new tires before next winter since it is showing no signs of anything major breaking.

Hey Wubster, Were you able to find the changes you made with forscan to enable the menus on screen?

Story continues: analyzing wiring schematics from @Haz and comparing with Service Manual i have - built based on my Edge ST VIN. Steps to be followed as per my understanding: 1. Install light switch module ( HEADLAMP SWITCH) with one that has rear fog switch button. Already done. 2. check if wire (CLF57) connecting HEADLAMP SWITCH module, pin 2 (REAR FOG) is in place and go to BCM pin 8 (REAR FOG). What if there is no wire? To run a wire is not a problem from HEADLAMP SWITCH side. But how about BCM side? My VIN based Service Manual says BCM C2280G connector pin 8 is "not used". If there is no metal contact there then what? If it is only about putting metal pins in the connector (harness side) and crimp a wire then the question is - where to get suitable pin from? If BCM side pin is missing then... Don't tell me i have to take the whole BCM out of the car, open it and solder/whatever new connection inside:) Then another question to you guys - how the heck to take it out? Or even how to have some access to BCM? I saw BCM during installation of HEADLAMP SWITCH - it is so deep under the dash and there is zero room for hands not mentioning any manipulation around connectors! 3. Check if there is wire (SBB67) going from BATTERY JUNCTION BOX connector C1035A, pin 6, to BCM connector C2280B, pin 21: By looking at the wiring schematic it looks like this wire (SBB67) is specific for REAR FOG lamps - is it truth? But then 50 Amps fuse?! Or maybe this schematic is simplified and inside BCM this wire powers more things? At least I'm bit positive here and my VIN based Service Manual shows C2280B bin is occupied: 4. Check is there is, if not, run new wire from BCM connector C2280F, pin 25, all the way to the back of the car to connector C438 (if exist...) and to DIY lamps - do it yourself as i haven't found OEM lamps that fit in place of original reflectors in my bumper (USA ST, 2022):( Then the other wire (negative) to some ground point in the back. And here again, my VIN based Service Manual shows BCM connector C2280F, pin 25 is not used: ...so the same question on how to install it:/ 5. Adapting the whole system to make it work - will it work straight away after the connections are made or some adaptation/programming is necessary? ForScan - how, what modules, etc - but for the moment i need to win points 1-4... When i get back home i'll try to find some time and do detailed checks and make how-to story for anyone interested to follow the same path. Please put some light on the topics highlighted above. Those missing wires and empty slots in BCM worries me the most. Thanks!

*** This is an Advance Notice -- This post will be updated when the Full Dealer Bulletin is released *** Please note: The Advance Notice letter contains a typo, indicating "MKX" for model years that clearly represent the Nautilus model...

Sheesh, there must be something in the air. Or there is a big jinx going on somewhere. I drove my Edge for the first time in a few days, and I'll be danged if the rear-view camera didn't give me problems. Backing out of a parking space, it was kinda black and skewed, and wavery image. I was like, no way. When I got home, I tried it again before I went in the house, and the image was mostly good, but kinda pixelated and distorted. Man, I couldn't believe it. I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens next time I drive it. I don't drive it often, but when I do, I expect things to work. I also have the extended warranty, but since this is under recall,, with no fix, warranty is N/A. This time.

More than than likely is stabilizer links causing the noise. These in the front and back of the vehicle. I have changed mine several times over the years. My Edge is a 2013 and i have replaced front and back about 3 times.

I know. It just doesn't make sense. How in the world could Ford be so careless. What are they doing wrong? No wonder everyone is buying the competition. I get it, with all the technology packed into today's vehicles, there will be issues. But Ford is screwing up big time. My ST has not had this issue. But there have been plenty of other small issues that make me wonder??? Did I buy a piece of Junk????

Yes, you can enable it on screen. I will try to find the changes needed.

I would not consider any modifications - don't have the money for the modifications nor the premature failure that's typically associated with such modifications. 100% Costco Top Tier gas and every three months 16oz of TECHRON - 266701317 Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner, 32 oz which I buy from Napa when on special. Borescope combustion chamber and intake and never seen the need for CRC etc. Using a catch-can may have helped avoid contamination. .

Your install looks great. I am in the process of installing the lighted cupholders in an sel that never had ambient lighting. Below is the process as I understand it. Is there anything I am missing? 1. run wire from pin 13 on the c2280g haness in the bcm to cupholder 2. tap power and ground from somewhere 3. Change 7D0-01-02 xxx-xxx-2xxx using forscan (I did this and it did not put the ambient lights control on the sync screen, do I have to install the cupholders first before I make that change? Is there also changes that need to be made in the body control module using sync? Where did you get power and ground from for the cupholders? Did you make a harness or just wire tap? Did you find a harness to plug into the cupholder or just cut off the factor harness that comes on the cupholder and tie wires together? Thanks in advance for any guidance you can provide.

Chinese Edge in name only. With seating for 7 probably closer in size to the Explorer. Ford needs to bring back the original Edge size suv. I would be ok with a hybrid.

We're at about 20' above sea level and ambient temperature about 70* in Florida. Light turned green. He got on the pedal and I did too. 0-50 was sweet, until he pulled on me and passed me at 50 mph. My belief is the Livernois tune with a few minor mods really brings our platform (Nautilus / Edge ST) alive. We're at about 20' above sea level with an ambient temperature about 70* (in Florida). From my experience, I believe I'm easily doing about a sub 5.0 second 0-60. Once the Hellcat's 650 LB FT of torque got that TRX Hellcat moving, the 707 crank HP pulls extremely hard ... "sweet spot" for the TRX. Those trucks have a declared 4.5 second 0-60 time, so, basing my theoretical belief of sub-5 seconds, because he flew by me at 50 mph. I'll get it out to the Dragstrip soon. Guy gave me a big smile and a thumbs-up. Just sharing the experience. Feel free to comment negatively or positively with your honest opinion.

You have an ST. Not an Edge Sport. Ford has already done everything for you. 20 HP over the Sport. 10% stiffer in the front, 20 % in the back. Monotube shocks instead of twin tube. You have sport mode if you feel like you need it, even though 90% you don't. Also, you can double tap the ESC button and put the advancetrac into sport mode. A hidden gem with the ST The ST is everything the Sport wishes it could be. Don't change anything. Mine does have the Performance Wheel and Brake package which makes all the difference in the world. The Pirelli Pzeros turn it into a true performance SUV. . Trust me, you don't need all that tuning crap. You already have it. You have an ST

Very lucky I've never had this issue on my 22 ST.

Your plan is solid! Should be a blast once you have it all dialed in. My wife drives our Edge ST mostly, so I want to try and not go too nuts with it. So far just the Unleashed 93 tune and one step colder Ruetheniums and a custom air intake crafted by @Xtra that I acquired from a past member. The intake is sweet, adds a nice growl too! I have colder thermostats on hand and will most likely do the CVF FMIC this summer. Almost forgot, it sits on H&R springs (bought it used and already had them) I am tempted to try another tune, I saw one that keeps the OAR learning like the Monster Adapt-X I have on my Focus ST.

@boostededge - are your photos still available or the links are dead? I can't see the photos. Could you consider updating your post? I have 2022 ST and I'd love to check PTU on mine this summer. Time for full fluid service in my ST:) Thanks!

Tread depth is not the way to measure tire diameter! A tire's diameter CAN NOT be determined by the it's size on the sidewall! Even the same size tire of a different design made by the same manufacturer may not have the same diameter too! Measuring from top to bottom will not give diameter measurements that are valid. If you want to know the diameter of a tire in question, go to the MFG.s site and find the revs per mile for your tires and compare. As for asymmetrical on one side vs the other in the front, under normal conditions, you will never be able to tell the difference! Not only was I a tire store manager but, I owned and operated 22 tire and brake stores and was the largest distributor of Yokohama tires. I even owned the next 6 months of production at 1 time. But that is another story for another time.

Exactly. You put into words just what I was thinking.

The info button - which showed the album, genre, file name, and folder of a song - when playing music on a USB drive is gone in this update, right? I can no longer find it. A downgrade. Now only the artist, title, and album/single sleeve show.

Just received update 6.14.0 Updated SYNC to build 24058 Revision 1197.

Until your pads/brakes heat up, you can't brake and then don't have anything left to pick.

if driving all day only gets the battery to 70%, i'd be checking alternator current output. and crank on every single power hungry accessory immediately after start up while watching the output, see if it hits a threshold below its actual spec. otherwise its possible the battery is just tired.

There was a video of them dismantling the Edge production line in Oakville. But, EVs are not the answer!

Both levels/lines state the turn signal is amber (2019-2024). This is my 2019 SEL with the low line tail lights: turn signal: taillight:

It is another part of the Alexa update.

don't have time to search and link right now aFe dry flow filter RMM from UP LMS tune