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Hello everyone, I’ve been following this thread with a lot of interest — great work from all of you digging into the 360 retrofit! I’ve been wanting to achieve a similar result, but I decided to take a different approach. I went with a third-party 360 AVM kit and set it up to integrate with the SYNC screen on my 2023 Ford Edge. There really isn’t anything compatible out of the box with the Edge, but I noticed the Edge and Ranger share similar hardware and modules. And notice I said similar — not the same. It’s been a long process — I’ve done tons of research and a fair amount of trial and error to figure out the video inputs, CANBUS integration, and DIP switch configurations needed to get everything displaying correctly with the factory screen and triggers. With this I do have dynamic guidelines, parking sensors, multiple views along with the top-down bird view. Also I did retain the factory camera and camera view, and I can jump between factory view and 360 kit view. It’s still a work in progress, but going this route gives me more flexibility compared to being locked into the OEM restrictions. I’ll share more updates as I continue refining the setup. Next steps will be to mount all the cameras

I don't think they are " one-time use " either but Ford is being cautious. It's like saying, on older cars, every time you change the oil you have to change the oil drain plug gasket. Not a true statement. It's very tight in there to remove that PTU cover plate without moving anything else. I chose to buy a MityVac unit specifically for vacuuming out the gear fluid. Sucked it almost dry. I used another MityVac unit, so I didn't have to clean them in-between same-time uses for the PTU, to pump the new gear oil in. Took the correct amount of fluid as specified in the manuals. ( That's why I said it sucked it dry ) And, of course, a lot less messier.

Well, I've done something rash. Traded my 2019 Flex NA AWD for a 2024 Edge ST. The Flex had 105K on the clock and I wanted a vehicle with a official Ford tow package for the small trailer I'll be pulling. Local Ford store had one I liked, so I got it. Has a few more miles than I'd like (39K), but I might just run it for a couple years and switch to an Explorer ST (unless you all talk me out of it...). It is fun to drive and in regular driving is getting better mileage that the Flex. We'll see how it tows the trailer, as I leave Wednesday for the trip. The Flex had tons of room when you laid down the second row seats, so I'm gonna miss that, but the trailer lets me put some stuff that used to go in the car now into the trailer. It's just a 5X8 trailer holding my Honda ATV. So all told maybe 1200lbs. The items I put in the back of the car for the trip should just fit. I need 67" and the Edge has 70". Tuesday is loading day. Sorry I don't have a pic of the car yet. But it's a very dark Blue. Don't know the official color name... The B&O sound system is kinda cool. Pic attached to show what has to fit in the back... it comes apart, but the longest piece is 67" long. sidebar: why did it put the pic sideways, and how do I correct it?🤔

If it helps anyone doing this themselves, I'm able to monitor transmission fluid temp (the TFT PID) using the MXLink obd2 bluetooth connector.

The little things matter 😉 Added glove box compartment light back in the Edge. Don't know why Ford deleted it in the first place. Scored a 2017 Edge glove box lamp harness and damper from the junkyard. With a little bit of DIY (dremel action & soldering), swapped out the LED PCB for a brighter aftermarket one. I made a T-harness to tap into the passenger side (visor) vanity mirror lamp circuit. Ran that down the psngr side A-pillar all the way to the glove box.

Happy to be aboard. I own a 2018 Edge Titanium.

Hello, picked up a 2020 Edge ST last week and looking forward to digging into what it is all about. Have a 2013 Focus ST that I’ve worked and modified quite a bit. Hope to find some good info and share anything I can.

My 2024 has the cooler, and I used the suction method to get the fluid out. I wanted to remove the cooler but the studs to remove it are basically impossible to get a socket or wrench on so I gave up.

I confirmed with Bellevue Ford tech that their service manual says the same about adding 1L once full to the 2019+ ST.

Finally got the time to install the rotors and pads I got in June on my ST. Not that hard to do if you have the right tools. The 7mm and 11mm Allen sockets and the 18mm standard socket are not normally found in most tool sets you buy. A 1/2 inch impact wrench is also a good idea to have for the job. I can't find the thread here, but the idea to use a bolt through the holes for the anchor plate to remove the rotors is spot on. Both front rotors would not budge using a rubber mallet. I only had time to do the break in. So I cannot comment on how they function yet. The front pads had a lot of life left and the rotors were in pretty good shape. The rear pads were completely worn out and needed to be changed. I'll report back on how the brakes perform.

Changed the fluid in the 2019 Edge ST today. 45k miles on it, fluid looked a touch red still and didn't stink. No metal shavings. TFT up to ~185 Drained 4.7 qt / 4.44 L Added 5.28 qt / 5 L per FSM TFT up to >185 Pulled leveling plug and drained .68 qt / .650 L out (until fluid dripped down side of case) Added 1.05 qt / 1 L after leveling plug back in (??? its what FSM said so I did it ..) No idea if I was low to begin with but I followed the FSM exact. 2022 Edge ST Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill (2).pdf 2019_edge_transmission.pdf

Just saying Hi. New member to the forum with a recently purchased 2018 Edge SE w/ 54k miles on it. Hoping to have a good experience with it.

Update: I changed my RDU & PTU fluids recently. I was surprised to find the RDU actually had a drain plug. Not all cars do. While I filled it up simply as boostededge said above, I pumped it in using a pressurized device and it actually took the full amount as specified in the manual. As for the PTU, I sucked the old fluid out using a vacuum device and pumped fluid in using the same pressurized device I used for the RDU, and again, it took the full amount as specified in the manual. As far as whether or not the PTU has a cooler, I'm wondering if a PTU cooler is installed where original vehicle destination is a dealership in the hotter climates of the country. IE; NorthEast US has colder climates than Arizona so I would expect, maybe, that would be why Arizona would get a PTU cooler and the NorthEast does not. (?)

For giggles, I actually ran my 2018 Edge through Chat GPT with some cosmetic modifications and a hidden light bar. Didn't get the wheels right but the grille is on point. Aside from that, nothing new to report.

I would go with the H6 AGM Everstart Platinum from Walmart. Be sure to reset your battery monitoring and select a new battery code if you change size and type.

That is the 8F57 specs (full plus 1 quart), the 8F35 is just fill to the bottom of the sight plug.

You dont really have to worry about how much fluid the RDU takes if you can get the vehicle level. Just pump it in until it runs down the case and its full.

All model years have RDU with clutches. So when the clutches are disengaged it effectively "disconnects" the rear differential from the driveshaft. Pre 2019, the driveshaft will still turn because it is connected to the PTU/Transmission/Engine, while the rear differential will turn based on the speeds of the rear wheels. 2019+ models, the driveshaft stops rotating when the PTU disconnects. As can be seen in this video:

This recall is now showing on my CarFax.

I have as well. Thumbs up from me. Mine has information about my ESP, etc. Manual and wiring diagram - love it - pdf format, so it is a big file, but I love that it is searchable.

I have a 24 Ford edge and just recently noticed the parking brake applied itself when shutting off the car in my driveway (slight incline). Is this a feature on the car or a malfunction?

I just thought I would write a quick post about some maintenance that I performed yesterday. I am on my second edge ST now coming from a 2020 to a 2024. I've got about 16,500 miles currently. Yesterday I did a complete fluid change. The radiator fluid tested fine and was pretty easy to swap. The rear differential was very dark, almost black and the new fluid is a caramel color so it was definitely at the end of its life. The PTU wasn't as bad, but definitely a dark, dark brown whereas the new fluid again is a caramel color. I also figured that it would be a good idea to do a transmission drain and fill since I've been getting a hard 1-2 shift. The transmission fluid definitely had a slightly burnt smell to it and was nearly black and the new fluid is a red color. Just a heads up to anybody who is wondering about the maintenance intervals that Ford recommends, I would definitely do them early. I got all of those fluids from rock Auto for about $100.

PN: K2GZ-7A010-M from thread -

The malfunction seems to be more infrequent, but good that I haven't bought a replacement camera yet because a second recall notice just showed up on my CarFax. Got two recalls now, the rear brake hoses and the backup camera.

Thanks for your, & other staff vigilance!

Hello, all! It's good to find an active forum for just the Edge. I don't join many forums, but this one seems to be of a high quality and has great participation. I hope I am able to provide my own helpful information and add to the discussions in a positive way. BTW, I have a 2020 Edge ST in Rapid Red with the performance brake package.

Car is over five years old so I'm thinking it's probably good to replace the original factory battery. Question is, what does every one think is the best replacement? I understand that it should be an H6 or Group 48 AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery but beyond that I'm not sure what the best choice would be. I know I could go right to my local Ford dealer but I suspect that might be the most expensive option. What should I do?

Heres from the 2019 Edge ST FSM. This one is a little easier to read than the 2022 one that was posted in the other thread. Both have you adding 1 quart at the end, after you install the leveling bolt for the final time. The 2022 one posted has more info on going through gears though and is not mentioned in the 2019 one. 2019_edge_transmission.pdf

We have a 2011 Ford Edge Limited which my daughter acquired in the fall to use at a college. At school she rarely uses it. After a couple months she started getting symptoms of a dying battery. She started getting "battery saver" messages on the display. After couple more weeks it would not start without a jump. We figured it was just an old battery so we had her get a new battery. They did a test of the charging system and said there were no problems. A couple of months later the new battery was dead. When she came home I did some in-depth diagnostic testing. I put a multi-meter in line with the battery to monitor the current draw. Once the vehicle is "sleeping" I've monitored the current draw. The normal steady-state is about 17 milliamps. The problem comes every 15 minutes. The current draw suddenly spikes up to 2 amps, stays there for around 10 seconds, then slowly drops down to 1 amp over another 20 second before finally plunging back to the idle current of 17 mA. Note that the frequency is a bit faster when the vehicle first goes to sleep. Initially the frequency is every 5 minutes. It takes about a half hour before it goes to the 15 minute interval, but it then stays at that interval for a long time. To try to find the problem I started pulling fuses one at a time and seeing if the cycle continues. I tried all of the "small" fuses in the engine compartment fuse box first with no impact. I then moved on to the interior fuse panel. The most significant change happened with fuse 6. Fuse 6 is listed as "RF module". As soon as I pull that fuse the 15-minute high current draw stops. I figured that this circuit is probably for the remote keyless entry system. Sure enough, with that fuse unplugged the remote doesn't work at all. I was thinking she could live with using a key to get in, but it also makes the Start button not work. In fact, when you hit the button the car thinks it is being stolen and the alarm starts going off. Anyway, more research pointed me at TSB 13-6-18. This specifically deals with a current draw due to the remote system keeping the electronics awake. I took it to the dealer and they confirmed we had old software and updated the VMCU to version 2.2.14 at a cost of $140. When we got home I put my multimeter on again, waited the car to go to sleep and then watched what happened. No change. Every 15 minutes it's still drawing 2 amps. I'm open to suggestions on next steps in tracking this down as long as it doesn't involve leaving the car with the dealer with a blank check. Thanks

Greetings, Thank you for approving my request to join the forum. I recently bought a white 2016 SEL 2.0 and love it and look forward to learning more about it on this forum. I had not had a Ford product since we bought a new Grand Torino wagon in 1973. Since then, we have primarily had GM products. My wife still has a Cadillac CTS4 AWD and I have had 2 Chevy HHR's as my cars. The HHR's were both 2011 model year, the last year they were made and both were the top of the line 2LT models that featured several upgrades including sport suspension, a 2.4 engine, leather interior, sunroof and chrome wheels. I enjoyed them, as they handled and rode well, were fun to drive, got very good mpg and were very reliable. Recently I was on line helping one of my son's look for a HHR to replace the one he had that was totaled by a teenage driver who wasn't paying attention and tee boned my son's car. While car shopping I also found this 2016 Edge. For a long time, I had admired the looks of the Edge and also the Lincoln MKX, but had never driven one, or even ridden in one. In my searches in saw a good looking low mileage white 2016 SEL at a local Buick dealer and decided to take a look at it. I took it for a test drive and was amazed at how well it handled and rode. Also I was surprised at how well the 2.0 turbo ran. At one time I had a 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata with a factory turbo. That turbo was fun, but the turbo boost came on strong in the midrange. I was pleasantly surprised that the 2.0 Ecoboost turbo seemed like it was effective right off the bottom and that is prefect for a sedan of this size. In short, I fell in love with it and bought it. Actually, I am in love with the SEL, but not in love with the silver painted rims. So, my first question of the owners on this forum is if any of you have suggestions for replacement rims to replace the stock 18 inch painted silver rims on my new to me Edge. I always liked the chrome wheels on the HHR's that I owned as they looked good and were very easy to maintain. So, chrome would be my first choice, and second would be polished aluminum, such as may have some on some models of the Edge. I recently saw a supplier on Ebay, Factory Wheel Replacement that offered sets of polished alloy rims in sizes to fit my 2016 SEL and wondered if anybody here has any experience with this vendor. Thank you in advance for any suggestions you may have on purchasing better looking wheels for my Edge. Fred Z. Hillsboro, IL

I understand you. You can see the disconnection in action between the 2:15 and 2:25 marks.

@GoshenTop as can be seen, it's valuable to have your Model/Year in your profile signature - Settings - Ford Edge Forum @Cerberus no need to beat yourself up over this - I only learnt about this AWD setup on the later models just the other day. MACT's videos are actually quite good, just need to fast forward past the intro which can be a little drawn-out on some of his videos.

Thanks, I have been babying the brakes. Maybe it is time to be more aggressive.

got mine Jan 2018: new. Love the performance, comfort, quiet ride. looking for insight into fuel mileage and audio system (Sony) problem.

According to Levittown Ford, adding the factory perimeter alarm to a 2024 Edge ST with the part number ML3Z-19A361-A is NOT a simple plug-and-play installation and DOES requires dealer programming.

Yes I have from https://www.factory-manuals.com/ It's almost 15k pages in PDF form. I think it's worth it if you are keeping your vehicle for any length of time. You pay them, after that they ask for your vin and then within 24 hours they will send you a link to download it. The link is good for about a month.

Yep, this specific tab (red arrow) that the rubber band wraps around, broke free slightly to allow the rubber band to come off. Now I know why the cupholder retainers weren’t working and we’re rattling in the car. A little JB Weld should repair it so I can wrap the rubber band back around it.

Edge is covered. Confirmed - Ford recalls more than 200,000 vehicles for a rear camera failure that can lead to crashes https://share.google/qctStZRpmnFxyZNiz

At worst, the only warranty denial Ford can apply is if they can show if the tune was the result of the engine or engine-related part failure. All other warranty items will still be covered. Doesn't matter if you have the extended warranty or not. Now, if Ford says that's the issue / reason, you are really out of luck unless you want to fight Ford Corporate lawyers. Depends on your Dealer as they have discretion on informing Ford regarding issues and warranty work.

@bogmanglen: Relevant sections from the 2021 Edge Workshop Manual are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Air Conditioning (A-C) Compressor - 2.0L EcoBoost - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Air Conditioning (A-C) Compressor Belt - 2.0L EcoBoost - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Fender Splash Shield - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

The RDU saga - long post So I tackled the install of my “new” RDU last week – it took about 7-8 hours for the complete job – seemed too long for me – the problem was those T-50 torx bolts that hold the RDU to the front brackets – I got the drivers side loose and out easily, but the passenger side ones would not come loose – to the point that the spines in the bolt stripped out and ruined my bit – wound up just removing the entire bracket and using the air hammer and chisel to get those bolts out of the RDU – that accounts for at least an hour and a half The rest was pretty ordinary – just a lot of removing and installing bolts – one problem I encountered was the axle nut on the RR roughed up it’s threads while removing it – the edge of the nut was hammered in to lock it (I assume) – I could not see a way to release it from the threads so it flattened out the threads a bit – It went back on and torqued to specs but, if I ever have to remove it again I might need a new axle shaft - my Launch code tool coded the replacement RDU to the PCM So got it all back together and took it for a test drive – while the growling/grinding noise is gone, it clicked when turning from a stop – I disconnected the electrical connection on RDU and noise disappeared – so I’m figuring the clutch portion of the replacement RDU is defective..?? – I removed the clutch part of the replacement and it had gear oil in it – there is a seal between the two but it failed – I don’t know what the oil does to the clutch part but I’m pretty sure that’s what caused the clutch to fail To remove that seal with diff in car you have to basically destroy it – the seal on my original diff did not leak, but it to was looking rough from the removal process - I thought it a good idea to replace it and looked up the part number stamped on it – went to Ford and the one they had (same part number) was way to big – when they looked up the part number it showed the seal for the front of the clutch where it connects to drive shaft, not the seal between the diff and the clutch – they could not explain why they both have the same part number and that was that – I wound up rehabbing my original seal and reinstalling it I took the clutch portion off my original RDU and put it on the replacement RDU – removing that from the gear portion is pretty simple – the code for the clutch portion is etched into the unit (pic) – recoded my original clutch back into PCM I disassembled the gear portion of my original bad RDU – the gear set looked to be ok as did the left and right side output bearings – the growling was from the pinion bearings – these are double row ball bearings – the cage they are in is plastic – I’ve never seen that before – I don’t know what caused the bearing to fail (it was always lubricated) – it gouged up the race and balls pretty bad, so that’s where all the metal in my oil was from – I removed the race from the pinion gear with a puller – if you could find these bearings I think these units would be rebuildable – the L/R side bearings are a standard bearing (LM-501314) – the pinion ball bearings had no identity markings on them so I’m not sure if they can be obtained So the car is back on the road and the AWD seems to be operating normally – if that rehabbed seal does not leak I think it’s a good fix - total cost for this was around $500 – that includes new wheel bearings, axle shafts, the junkyard RDU, seals, and fluid – hopefully it lasts the rest of the car’s life – thanks to all for the input and advice – and I took the above advice and did not drill a drain into the RDU – I’ll change as much of the oil as I can every 20K miles or so and hope it holds

I removed the fake factory tips and installed the 4” MBRP tips and absolutely love the look! Showing you all for reference.

Took about 1.5 hours to complete this morning. All the old parts were in really good condition and the only real sign of deterioration was the idler bearing, it had expelled a little lubricant and felt just a little notchy. There's no room to get a socket and breaker bar on the tensioner to retract it for removal and installation of the belt so resorted to two ratchet wrenches seen in one of the photos. No doubt these components were good for another few thousand miles but I cant put a number to it, so given the choice again I'd change them at the same mileage, 103,000 mi.

Ford fully replaced it under warranty. Issue went away.

That is how I did it. 2 fasteners and then two clips. Easy as could be. i bought the dual horn assembly already on the bracket for about $50. Plug and play. Part # FA1Z-13832-A There are some YouTube videos that show the entire easy process.

Seems sketchy to me. Ford truck forums had discussion about this, seems xfr cases explode when Mercon V was used. In-fact, if you look at the back of the Mercon V container, it specifically states "not for use in transfer cases". Guess it's ok to use to clean out case, but I wouldn't run it more than a few miles. There was also a discussion on BITOG about a mechanic using ATM in a MKX. Told client that's what they all use. Of course the guy was an idiot, PTUs that use use ATM are built differently and use a lot more fluid. Our PTUs only use a few onces and sit right next to the cat. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2011-lincoln-mkx-ptu-oil-vs-atf.318911/ I've read several guys are well satisfied with Redline Lightweight Shock Proof fluid. Couple switched because the Motorcraft turned to a grease consistency too quickly. I just have the dealer change the fluid every couple of years. No way I'd run ATF in there however.

I'm still here. I've grown to appreciate the edge more. I'd even consider getting a new one. Coming from the rocket ships I was driving before this it was a bit of a shock. I still have several dislikes. I hate the dash cluster, I hate sync, and I hate that the car has zero audible exhaust note. But I love the interior, and now that my Scat Packs that I paid 41k for (46-48k sticker) are laughably being sold for 65k. I appreciate the edge st more. I would NEVER pay 65k for a dodge charger or challenger with the garbage interior quality that mine had. I love the sound system on the edge, best I've ever heard in a car, I love the headlights, I love the sunroof, I love the handling, I love the versatility, I love the looks, I love the self driving features, I love the front camera, I love the color... there are a lot of things I love. Once I realized that this was an suv and that 5.7s 0-60 is pretty respectable my attitude changed. Also owning the car for a year (still only has 5k miles on it) and having no issues other than a chipped windshield that nobody knows how to properly replace (had it done twice, and neither time they got the seal right. Second time they dented the hood (but PDR folks are thankfully magicians). I got the Motorola ma1 for wireless Android auto and thay helped a lot with mitigating the buggy nature of sync not picking up on my USB stored music. My neighbor has a Durango RT and it's way slower than the edge but it sounds so much better. I just don't understand why Ford gave such a quiet exhaust on an ST. Oh I'm also still not a huge fan of the transmission, it has some rough shifts here and there. I don't regret my purchase though. Idk how I got a brand new fully loaded edge ST for just about 41k. All of the 2022s are 55k+ now. My car was built in late December 2020 is a 2020 model year. I have a feeling it was supposed to be a 2021 but they didn't have the screen to make it a 2021 so they just made it a 2020 with the old screen. I don't think I'd spend 55k on the edge st honestly, since you can get other slightly slower but equally equipped cars for much much cheaper but for what I paid there is absolutely nothing comparable on the road. I often defend the Edge ST against people who say "it's not an ST" idk what world those people are living in but the ST Focus and Fiesta were never fast cars. I think the ST focus did 0-60 in 6.5 seconds, which the edge beats. After doing the ST SUV Experience I'm well aware of the handling abilities of this car, it's amazing. Oh one more thing that bugs me but is not uncommon for performance cars, I wish this had adjustable steering. The wheel is very heavy which is good for around town precision driving but very tiring on long road trips. Not too bothersome for me since I rent a car anytime I go more than 250 miles round trip but...

Hi All, Just wanted to report back that I was able to add a heated steering wheel pretty easily. I found a heated wheel out of a wrecked 19' SEL with Copilot 360+ on ebay for $172. I bought the clockspring (ERGZ-14A664-J - $83.19), HSWM (DG9Z14B561-A - $34.09), and the replacement steering wheel bolt ($0.86) on Tasca. With tax and shipping I spent about $330 total. Fortunately the harness is already setup for the HSWM. On the module side you just unclip it from the holder under the dash. In my case I double sided taped the module to a support bracket and double secured it with a couple of zip ties. I saw no need to by a bracket and bolt in a 1 oz plastic box. On the clockspring end (which by the way Ford calls a "Contact Plate Assembly" and saves the designation of Clockspring for a $600+ part in the steering column - which really threw me off), the wiring is all exactly the same on the vehicle side, with the one extra plug on the wheel side. Even the other end of that heated plug is on the old clockspring - presumably going nowhere. I finished it up with the forscan instructions from the Fusion 2G site, and viola... wifey has warm hands!