Leaderboard

alright, so its lane changing, never had awd so i kept looking at awd symptoms and solutions, i found it turned it off will drive tomorrow to see what happens technology is killing/saving me if you ever need help with a 73-79 f100 let me know, simplicity is awesome thanks for the help could not have done it without your insight

Not lot of detailed info on this; only a handful of threads here. The procedure was pretty simple but has gotchas and other things I didn't really care for. For example the torque on the PTU fill plug, you'll never get 33 ft/lbs on that. I stopped turning before I got to 28 ft/lb and noticed the plug was deeper than when I first took it out and stopped. There's also no way, as mentioned in another thread here, that you can completely remove the PTU cooler without removing the crossmember there. You can however, pull the cooler out far enough to drain the fluid. Make sure not to screw up the o-ring on the cooler though, or you will be dropping the crossmember. Those of you with just a plug here and no cooler don't have to worry about this as your plug comes right out. Here's the fill plug and PTU cooler with the stud/nut showing. When I opened the fill plug not even a dribble of fluid came out. I had to use a combo of 1/4" 8mm socket and 8mm flex head closed end ratchet on the nuts. Or you can drop the exhaust. I kept the 1-piece stud/nut and just reused them. The PTU cooler pops out easily, or as much as it can before hitting the subframe. The coolers metal rod elements extend the length of PTU basically. Here she is draining. You can see the o-ring - do not mess it up. Brake cleaner will be your exhausts best friend. I'd say I spilled an ounce or more other than what's in the container but I tried to measure what came out of it. In the sun. Didn't look too bad I thought for 40k miles but idk. Reinstalled PTU cooler and cleaned everything up. Inserted the stud/nuts and torqued to 97 in/lb Here's what I use to fill up transmissions and differentials. Just a regular water vacuum pump you can get on Amazon for $10. Easy peasy no mess no pumping just press a button. I put as much oil as it would take until it started streaming out. Then I spun the tires several times by hand and waited a few more minutes before pumping more fluid in. When the stream stopped and turned into a drip I put the fill plug back on with some thread sealant. Like I said above I don't like how Ford says 33 ft/lbs on the fill plug - that's not happening at least on mine. All cleaned up and done. I'll check the level again in 100 miles or so. The fill plug is inserted further than it was from the factory at 28ft/lbs. Be careful with aluminum. And that's pretty much it. It should take about an hour if you have access to a lift. As with everyone else, I have no idea why Ford couldn't put a drain plug other than to purposely let PTU's eat themselves after the warranty period.

Link to this FordParts webpage Good luck!

Found it! Tighten the bolts holding the fabric material to the fender well and it is gone! I sent you a personal message and here are the pictures. Jiggle the area where my hand is and you should hear the sound. tighten the bolts about a half turn.

SSM 53601 2020-2023 Explorer/Aviator, 2020-2025 Police Interceptor Utility, 2020-2025 Escape/Corsair, 2022-2025 Maverick, 2024-2025 Nautilus - Hybrid - Illuminated MIL With DTC P2450:00 Stored In The PCM Some 2020-2023 Explorer/Aviator, 2020-2025 Police Interceptor Utility, 2020-2025 Escape/Corsair, 2022-2025 Maverick, and 2024-2025 Nautilus vehicles equipped with a hybrid powertrain may exhibit an illuminated malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P2450:00 stored in the powertrain control module (PCM). This may be due to an evaporative emission system concern or may also be caused by the customer overfilling the fuel tank. If this condition occurs, perform normal diagnosis per Workshop Manual (WSM) Section, 303-13 and repair as necessary. Inform the customer that the condition may have been caused by overfilling of the fuel tank and to not top-off the fuel tank when the fuel pump nozzle automatically shuts off for the first time. Refer the customer to the Fuel and Refueling section of their Owner Manual for additional information.

Back again after a different dealership having my Edge for just about a month. I THINK we have figured out the problem. I will paste the (quite long) write-up from the master mechanic - as it would be more helpful than anything I would try to explain. Hopefully it helps at least ONE person that may be experiencing a similar problem. 2020 Ford Edge ST with 17k miles on it, 100 visits to dealerships, ridiculous amounts of time without the car, $1000's wasted, "fixes" that ended up not being fixes, etc. The master mechanic found it to be the driveshaft installed improperly from the factory. Please read the write-up for more details. I appreciate all the messages with guesses at what this could be. After getting a new transmission and it essentially being a placebo-fix where we weren't hearing the noise for a short period, here is to hoping that this new, properly installed driveshaft resolves this FIVE YEAR problem we've been experiencing. Thanks again!

Thanks for that @Haz My first thoughts were excessive toe in caused the inside edge wear, but the Ford doc states inside edge wear is caused by toe out. Reading Tire Wear Patterns

Additional documents... Good luck! Ride Height Measurement - General Procedures - 2017 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Wheels and Tires - Diagnosis and Testing - 2017 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf PINPOINT TEST A - INNER EDGE, SHOULDER WEAR - Diagnosis and Testing - 2017 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

Rafeek, I just noticed the same thing on my new 2024 Edge ST. and I too have temporarily secured it with cable ties. My St does have the tow package and could you give me any additional information on where to get this part. Thanks so much

Somewhat ironically, the Suspension System Specifications page is identical in both the 2017 Edge and 2016 Edge Workshop Manuals, with each bearing the 2016 model year Edge reference in its upper right corner, as shown on the below-attached PDF page... Good luck! 2016 Edge + 2017 Edge Workshop Manuals - Suspension System Specifications.pdf

The new Livernois tune seems to shift pretty well. At least a lot better than stock.

That was it. Something wasn’t programmed right. Now, all 12 of my parking sensors are beeping and working correctly.

I confirm that this fixes the noise. Worked on mine as well!! Thank you so much!!

Placing your device cursor over underlined acronyms may yield popup full-words descriptions of the acronyms. TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Inbound Call Cannot Be Heard And/Or Wireless Charger Icon Inaccurate 25-2157 17 April 2025 Model: Ford 2025 Explorer Lincoln 2024-2025 Nautilus 2025 Aviator Markets: North America markets only Issue: Some of the vehicles listed in the Model statement above may exhibit at least one of the following conditions: • Inbound call cannot be heard • Wireless charger icon inaccurate This may be due to the APIM software. Action: For vehicles that meet all of the criteria in the Issue and Model statements, follow the Service Procedure to reprogram the APIM. Warranty Status: Eligible under provisions of New Vehicle Limited Warranty (NVLW)/Service Part Warranty (SPW)/Service Part New Vehicle (SPNV)/Extended Service Plan (ESP) coverage. Limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. NVLW/SPW/SPNV/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. Labor Times Description Operation No. Time 2024-2025 Nautilus, 2025 Explorer/Aviator: Perform software update for GWM, TCU and APIM per service procedure. Includes time to clear codes. 252157A 1.9 Hrs. Additional Time For Further Updates To GWM, TCU and APIM “Refer To Warranty & Policy Manual, Section 1.3 For Time Recording Requirements And Procedures For Actual Time. Ford Monitors Module Reprogramming Vehicle History Session Data To Compare Against Warranty Claiming Activity” (Can Be Claimed With Operation A) AP252157 Actual Time Up To 2.0 Hrs. Repair/Claim Coding Causal Part: 14H522 Condition Code: 04 Service Procedure NOTE: The time required to complete this procedure varies depending on several factors including the number of module software updates required, available internet bandwidth, USB flash drive variability, and the potential that CAN flashing (software update via the DLC with FDRS) may be required. Connect to the internet with an ethernet cable, use a USB 3.2 Gen 2 or higher flash drive. When performing USB software updates, using high speed USB ports on the laptop is recommended for faster file transfer. 1. Start an FDRS session and navigate to Toolbox tab > Datalogger > body control module ( BCM) and select the BATT_SOC PID. Verify the PID reads 50% or higher. NOTE: Connecting the battery charger negative clamp directly to the battery negative terminal might result in the SOC PID not immediately reflecting the improvement from charging. (1). If SOC is less than 50%, charge the battery by attaching the battery charger's negative clamp to the engine or chassis ground and not the negative battery terminal. Refer to WSM, Section 414-01. (2). If the battery is unable to achieve a 50% SOC, use the Rotunda GRX-3590 or DCA-8000 testers to verify if replacement is required. • If the battery does not need to be replaced, disconnect the Rotunda charger and perform a BMS reset using the FDRS scan tool. • If the battery is replaced, fully charge the new battery, disconnect the Rotunda charger and perform a BMS reset using the FDRS scan tool. • Claim the battery testing and replacement outside of this article. 2. Reconnect the battery charger and set it to maintain a vehicle voltage of 12.6-13.6 volts. A low battery voltage or SOC while performing a software update to any module may result in a repeat "Restart Required" message in the vehicle's center display screen or a message on the FDRS saying "Part Number Validation Failed" or "DID Validation Failed". 3. Run the "Read The Configuration Data" app in FDRS, located in Toolbox > Multi- Module tab. 4. Navigate to the SW Updates tab. Is there a software update available for any of the following modules? GWM TCU APIM (1). Yes - proceed to Step 5. (2). No - this article does not apply. 5. Prepare to update the software for the GWM, TCU, and APIM. (1). A 64GB or larger USB flash drive is required for GWM, TCU, and APIM software updates. USB 3.2 Gen 2 or higher is recommended for faster file transfer on both the computer port and the USB drive. (2). Make sure the USB flash drive being used is formatted correctly. To see the available drives, hold down the Windows icon keyboard key and press the E keyboard key. Right click on the USB flash drive and select Properties. If File System under the General tab is not exFAT, the drive must be formatted. (3). To format the USB flash drive: • Right click on the USB flash drive. • Select Format, select exFAT for the File System. • Select Default Allocation Size for the Allocation Unit Size. (4). De-selecting Quick Format is not necessary and results in a lengthier operation. 6. Using the FDRS, begin module programming by selecting the "SW Updates" tab. Follow all on-screen instructions carefully. 7. When prompted, connect the USB flash drive to the FDRS. 8. When prompted by the FDRS, safely remove/eject the USB flash drive from the FDRS. Start the vehicle ( KOER) then connect the USB flash drive to the USB media hub to install the software into the module. When the USB software update begins, the center display screen displays a message stating "Do Not Remove USB". The update may take 10 minutes or longer to complete. NOTE: It may take up to 5 minutes for the vehicle to recognize the USB flash drive with software update. 9. When the vehicle's center display screen prompts to restart the vehicle: (1). Turn the vehicle OFF. (2). Wait 10 minutes. (3). Restart the vehicle (KOER). The update is still in process at this time. 10. Follow FDRS on-screen prompts to complete the update. NOTE: It may take up to 5 minutes before "Update Successful" appears in the vehicle's center display screen. After 5 minutes if "Update Successful" pop-up is not shown on the center display screen, remove the USB flash drive and select YES on the FDRS prompt stating "Was The USB Update Successful" ( FDRS verifies if the module software update was successfully installed on the module). 11. Perform the software update for the GWM. Follow all update screens. If there is no GWM software update available, proceed to Step 12. (1). If there is no screen prompt indicating that the software update is in progress: • Perform the Digital Experience reset. (2). Follow the center display screen prompts. (3). Follow FDRS prompts to complete the GWM programming. • Once the pop up stating "Update Successful" appears in the center display screen, select Close, remove the USB flash drive from the USB media hub, and select Yes on FDRS indicating the update installed successfully. This initiates the remaining automated configuration steps and reports the module software part numbers and application software levels to the Ford online database. Failure to follow this step results in an inaccurate database as well as omitted, improperly installed, or improperly configured applications (features) such as navigation (if equipped). It is normal for the module to reset during this step. (4). Proceed to Step 12. 12. Perform the software update for the TCU. Follow all update screens. If there is no TCU software update available, proceed to Step 13. (1). If there is no screen prompt indicating that the software update is in progress: • Perform the Digital Experience reset. (2). Follow the center display screen prompts. (3). Follow FDRS prompts to complete the TCU programming. • Once the pop up stating "Update Successful" appears in the center display screen, select Close, remove the USB flash drive from the USB media hub, and select Yes on FDRS indicating the update installed successfully. This initiates the remaining automated configuration steps and reports the module software part numbers and application software levels to the Ford online database. Failure to follow this step results in an inaccurate database as well as omitted, improperly installed, or improperly configured applications (features) such as navigation (if equipped). It is normal for the module to reset during this step. (4). Proceed to Step 13. 13. Perform the software update for the APIM. Follow all update screens. If there is no APIM software update available, proceed to Step 14. (1). If there is no screen prompt indicating that the software update is in progress: • Perform the Digital Experience reset. (2). Follow the center display screen prompts. (3). Follow FDRS prompts to complete the APIM programming. • Once the pop up stating "Update Successful" appears in the center display screen, select Close, remove the USB flash drive from the USB media hub, and select Yes on FDRS indicating the update installed successfully. This initiates the remaining automated configuration steps and reports the module software part numbers and application software levels to the Ford online database. Failure to follow this step results in an inaccurate database as well as omitted, improperly installed, or improperly configured applications (features) such as navigation (if equipped). It is normal for the module to reset during this step. (4). Proceed to Step 14. 14. Format the USB drive. Right click on the USB flash drive. Select Format, select exFAT for the File System. Select Default Allocation Size for the Allocation Unit Size. De-selecting Quick Format is not necessary and results in a lengthier operation. NOTE: The USB drive must be formatted immediately after the APIM software update (prior to updating any other module) or the subsequent updates may fail. 15. Refresh the FDRS files. (1). Click on envelope icon. (2). Select Refresh FDRS Files (this will close FDRS when completed). (3). Launch FDRS. (4). Start new FDRS session. 16. Are there any updates available for the GWM, TCU, and/or APIM? NOTE: The option to update a module may not be available until other module(s) are updated to a certain level. The network test is a confirmation that all modules are at the latest available software. Some repairs may require multiple network tests to reveal all module dependent software. (1). Yes - proceed to Step 11. (2). No - repair is complete. © 2025 Ford Motor Company All rights reserved. NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supersede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources. TSB 25-2157 - 2024-2025 Nautilus + 2025 Aviator & Explorer - Inbound Call Cannot Be Heard And-Or Wireless Charger Icon Inaccurate - Effective 04-17-2025.pdf

The fact that you found out what the noise is awesome. Way to go. Not every day we figure stuff like this out!!

@bscott94 my Costco battery lasted about the length of the warranty and that's why I decided to go with the Everstart AGM. Edit: Gone are the days when Costco batteries were high quality with the best replacement warranty around.

Representative sections from the 2014 Edge Workshop Manual and Wiring Resource are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Liftgate Trim Panel - Removal and Installation - 2014 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Liftgate Release Switch - Removal and Installation - 2014 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH - Connector C4216 Pinout Diagram - 2014 Edge.pdf LIFTGATE RELEASE SWITCH - Connector C4216 Location - 2014 Edge.pdf

Do I need to remove the front bumper to replace the entire passenger side fog light assembly on a 2017 Ford Edge? Or how does one best replace the assembly? I removed the splash guard/ under carriage and still could not get to it. Thank you.

Oil Filter Inspection Special Tool(s) / General Equipment Oil Drain Equipment Knife Vise Activation Remove the oil filter. Refer to oil change. Drain any excess oil from the oil filter. Use the General Equipment: Oil Drain Equipment Using an oil filter cutter, cut the housing from the baseplate. Remove the support tube and oil filter element assembly from the housing. Separate the oil filter element from the support tube. Use the General Equipment: Knife Use the General Equipment: Vise Twist the top and bottom endcaps and separate the top or bottom endcaps from the support tube. Inspect the support tube for debris. Check for metal debris, fine or course, that would indicate a catastrophic failure of the engine. Expand the oil filter element. Normal element, a few particles of metal is normal. Bearing damage, large amount of bearing metal is not normal. If the oil filter inspection shows excessive metal debris to indicate catastrophic failure of the engine, REMOVE the engine oil pan and inspect the main and connecting rod bearings for damage. DISASSEMBLE the engine to determine the extent or source of the damage. REFER to Engine Oil Pan. REFER to Removal. REFER to Bearing Inspection. REFER to Engine Disassembly. © Copyright 2025, Ford Motor Company. Oil Filter Inspection - Workshop Manual General Procedure.pdf

Thank you for the quick response! I purused @Wubster100 post and will try some of the things they did. Also found a post by @Remis that appears to be having same problem - @Haz posted a comprehensive response. I think I'll brew a pot of coffee and work through the posts.

@sounduser: Your question may be addressed by the U.K. edition Workshop Manual sections attached below as PDF documents... Please note that I selected 177kW/240PS EcoBlue information -- if you require the lower output EcoBlue information, just let me know and I will provide it. Good luck! Engine - System Operation and Component Description - 2.0L EcoBlue Diesel - 2015-2022 Edge, Edge Vignale, Endura Workshop Manual.pdf Engine Component Location - Description and Operation - 2.0L EcoBlue Diesel - 2015-2022 Edge, Edge Vignale, Endura Workshop Manual.pdf Timing Belt - Removal and Installation - 2.0L EcoBlue Diesel - 2015-2022 Edge, Edge Vignale, Endura Workshop Manual.pdf Timing Belt Cover - Removal and Installation - 2.0L EcoBlue Diesel - 2015-2022 Edge, Edge Vignale, Endura Workshop Manual.pdf

I might get this wrong with what was explained, but we were told that the incorrect install from factory with the bracket and the driveshaft caused for the driveshaft to contort a little bit due to misaligning the bolts. The bolts were able to fit perfectly into place with the bracket on the new driveshaft. I apologize for my ignorance as this is like a different language for me.

We were beyond lucky to have this master mechanic work on this problem for us over the last month. He said it was the hardest thing he has ever had to figure out and resolve in his career. Also, we don't really ever put the car in sport-mode, but the noise was still present. Putting the car in sport-mode seemed to be a "cheat" to allow the mechanics to hear the noise better (and at all) as the noise didn't occur 100% of the time when hitting 2100 RPM. So it is false that it ONLY happened in sport-mode. The mechanic just forced the issue as it seemed to occur more often in sport-mode during his tests and stuck with that mode throughout the testing.

Great news. I was able to replace the brake light. It was incredibly difficult to remove the top. Thank you all for all of your help. I ended up going to a mechanic

Lower Arm illustration and guidance from the Workshop Manual... NOTICE: Suspension fasteners affect performance of vital components and systems and their failure may result in major service expense. If replacement is necessary install new parts with the same part numbers or equivalent part. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Tighten the fasteners to specification during reassembly. NOTICE: Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners with the weight of the vehicle resting on the wheels and tires or incorrect clamp load and bushing damage may occur. Good luck!

Seems like going 7.5k on oil changes is pushing it. I do mine at 4-4500. I am using OEM semi synthetic as recommended by the dealer. The dealer did say using full synthetic would allow me to go longer on the interval. I think the turbochargers are dependent on good clean oil. Just my thoughts.

If the steering wheel heating is not included in the package, this can be easily fixed. Buy a kit on the secondary market and install it. The work is not difficult and anyone can do it. Make changes using Forscan to three modules APIM, IPC and FCIM. You can change the heating temperature as desired.

Who would have guessed that one day your Social Security would be at risk?

Unfortunately it seems that most of the search results are either actually more expensive than the ET4Z-19G490-A variant or non-OE copies of dubious quality and compatibility.

Ford of Canada OASIS announcement...

Attached... Good luck! Vehicle Dynamic Suspension - System Operation and Component Description - 2019 Fusion Workshop Manual.pdf Vehicle Dynamic Suspension - Wiring Diagram Page 1 - 2019 Fusion.pdf Vehicle Dynamic Suspension - Wiring Diagram Page 2 - 2019 Fusion.pdf Vehicle Dynamic Suspension - Wiring Diagram Page 3 - 2019 Fusion.pdf

Yes, I have a 22ST and noticed it missing the first day. I ordered the part and put it on. So cheap of them to do this.

To reset the liftgate actuator disconnect the battery for 20 seconds, then reconnect it. Then manually close and fully latch the liftgate. Then power open the liftgate using the remote key.

I am sure @Haz will chime in with the correct specs for 2017 (and maybe 2016?), I only have for the 2015, attached. As far as I know, 2015-2018 should be the same, but there always could be differences. Suspension Specs.pdf

Well I pulled the rear driveshaft Thursday. Was not sure what to expect, I was kinda halfway thinking the system would act like an open differential and I would have no movement at all. But, the car drives just fine with no ill effects it seems. I drove it around this past weekend and into work this morning with no issues. Good news is that the vibration at 25mph is all but gone so it does appear to have been the driveshaft. I think that maybe the splined connections need to be staked or upset such that they do not slide in/out. Instead of that motion being taken up by the flexible connection at the PTU the relative in/out movement was happening in the splines resulting in limited engagement. At least that is what I think. Pretty sure FMC never intended anyone to rebuild the driveshaft. I would like to have AWD at least for next winter so I will noodle on this a bit and hopefully come up with a cheap fix. Not a lot of room to get in there and stake the splines. Anyway the bad vibration is gone for now. However, every time I fix something another noise that was masked comes to the top of the spectrum. I am getting a howling noise at speed. it's not bad at this point so I am not overly concerned. On another note, the right rear tire has significant cupping on the inside, a product of worn out bushings. Not sure I want to tackle that as it could put me down the rabbit hole of multiple parts replacements. Might just rotate the tires and spread that joy around to the other three tires. New goal is to get through summer with the car, stretch goal is to hit 300K. Gonna get my $200 initial investment back out if it kills me.

Our having the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) enables us to gain fuller understanding from the 2019 Edge Workshop Manual... So, the potential failure modes involve wiring and/or connectors, the PTU Actuator Motor, or the AWD Module. The potentially involved wiring and/or connectors between the PTU Actuator Motor and the AWD Module are highlighted in yellow toward the bottom of the following Wiring Diagram... The Workshop Manual recommends performing electrical diagnostic Pinpoint Test A in order to assess which of the three failure modes - wiring/connectors, or PTU Actuator Motor, or AWD Module -- is the cause of DTC C0090:18 being set in the AWD Module. Attached below as PDF documents are Workshop Manual and Wiring Resource sections that can provide you fuller awareness of the potential work involved in addressing the diagnostic effort and the various repair procedures. Ford's online parts-selling site shows the PTU Actuator Motor... Link to this FordParts webpage It's worth noting that replacement of the PTU Actuator Motor/Transfer Case Motor involves dropping the vehicle's Front Subframe, which is a substantial task that must involve the right equipment to ensure personal safety, as detailed in the below-attached Workshop Manual procedures. Ford's Service Labor Time Standard (SLTS) for removing and installing a PTU in a 2.7L EcoBoost Edge is 6.1 hours. Replacement of the PTU Actuator Motor might involve another hour of Labor. So, Labor will be the majority of the cost if you have the job done by a professional technician at a dealership or independent repair facility. While you might undertake the electrical diagnostic procedure to personally assess wiring/connectors and the state of the PTU Actuator Motor, keep in mind that a professional technician will duplicate that task prior to replacing the PTU Actuator Motor, with the SLTS for that being 0.3-0.5 hour of Labor, which is less time than it would take me to put our 2015 MKX up in the air and safely roll underneath it. Good luck! All Wheel Drive (AWD) Module to Power Transfer Unit (PTU) - Wiring Diagram - 2019 Edge.pdf PTU Actuator Motor - Diagnostic Pinpoint Test ''A'' - 2019 Edge.pdf All Wheel Drive (AWD) Module - Connector C3841 Location - Under vehicle, right front floor pan area - 2019 Edge.pdf All Wheel Drive (AWD) Module - Connector C3841 Pinout Diagram showing Pin-Circuit Detail - 2019 Edge.pdf Power Transfer Unit (PTU) - Connector C1898C Location - Engine compartment, right hand side - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2019 Edge.pdf Power Transfer Unit (PTU) - Connector C1898C Pinout Diagram showing Pin-Circuit Detail - 2019 Edge.pdf All Wheel Drive (AWD) Module - Removal and Installation - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Power Transfer Unit (PTU) - Actuator Motor Removal and Installation - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Front Subframe - Removal and Installation - 2019 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

2019 Ford Edge ST Turbo 2.7L

We added the hood blanket and engine cover to our 2019 SEL. It made a noticeable, but not dramatic decrease in sound. The 2 liter is pretty noisy. Not the engine itself, but the air intake design is bad and causes a lot of high pitch noise. Ford says it is not a defect. Knowing what I know now, I would still add the two parts if I bought an Edge without them.

SOC: 92% Type: AGM Voltage: 12.70 Rated: 760 CCA Measured: 625 CCA Temperature: 68º F

Exactly the way I would do it. You did a great job on the pictures too. Thank you! I would bet the fiber gasket stays in its place if you pop the cooler straight out, or you wouldn't be able to re install the cooler as it would block the passage. Ford was hoping no one would come up with an easy solution so they could sell a new ptu when they explode right out of warranty!

Great write up!

On my 2024 ST adaptive yes, glare free no.

Welcome to the Forum @RLA! Per the relevant sections of the 2017 Edge Workshop attached below as PDF documents, you are correct -- the Bumper Cover must be removed... Good luck! Front Fog Lamp - Removal and Installation - 2017 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Front Bumper Cover - Removal and Installation - 2017 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

The one positive thing I get out of what you pasted is you were so lucky to find a Ford Tech that was willing to give it all he could to try a figure this out and fix it for you. Looks like he went the extra mile and gave it 100% to try and fix this issue. That in itself is a rare thing to find these days. What a nightmare to go through for you. The most interesting thing is that it only happened in sport mode. I had a 2021 Edge ST that was a nightmare from day one: I won't go into too much detail but- at about 1100 miles while out in the middle of nowhere a cooling hose came off (at the ptu cooler) causing overheat and leaving me stranded. Only to find from the dealer that there were three clamps not properly installed on the hoses from the factory. The car was never the same after that. It drove normal but the transmission developed a Slam sound randomly on acceleration from a stop. Multiple visits to the dealership and a lot of wasted time they changed some components of the transmission. The Slamming was gone but the shifting was always unpredictable and in sport mode a funny humming sound came from somewhere in the engine compartment area. In reverse there was a slight delay in response under acceleration. They drove the vehicle multiple times and said it was normal. BS. After two years and at 12000 miles (Jan 2023) I ended up trading it in for an identical 2024 St. After all the hell I had been through it wasn't a very smart decision on my part. Even though I had the extended warranty I never felt comfortable with the vehicle after an overheat. If I had been smart, I would have taken legal action and forced Ford to take the vehicle back under the California lemon law. The only reason I stuck with Ford is because I loved the Edge ST and knew it was the last year they were being made. I got the 8-year extended warranty hoping I never have to use it. I am at 6550 miles and only after driving both vehicles I notice there is a big difference in the transmission between my old 2021 and the 2024.

@edgemaster: The 2009 Edge Workshop Manual provides the following illustration showing the Fixed Glass panel of your Edge's Panoramic Roof. You are describing the U-shaped Fixed Glass Front Seal (item 1), which along with the two Side Trim Seals (item 3) fill the gaps at the front and on the left & right sides of the Fixed Glass panel, where channels exist to drain water to the rear of the roof, where it flows out through the left & right side End Caps (item 7)... As you may already know, the waterproof sealing of the Fixed Glass panel is provided by a continual bead of urethane adhesive applied to the metal roof structure in the shape of Path 1 or Path 2, depending upon the model year of the Edge/MKX... Ford's parts-selling website offers photos of the Front seal which may be helpful, and which appears to show the red pull-off strip for double-sided tape used to affix the Front seal to the roof, underneath the outer edges of the Fixed Glass panel... Link to this FordParts webpage The Workshop Manual does not provide any procedure relating to removal and installation of the Front seal. If it did, I expect because of the minimal clearance between the Front seal's left-hand & right-hand side legs and the seals on the Side Trim pieces, the procedure might involve removal of the Fixed Glass panel by cutting the bead of urethane sealant, cleaning residue from the glass panel and the metal roof, then installing of the Front seal on the roof, apply the continuous bead of urethane sealant, and install the Fixed Glass panel, all of which would very likely involve a professional glass installer. Working clearances between the rear of the Moving Glass panel and the front of the Fixed Glass panel are greater, however, so if the Front seal is only deteriorated on the front, then it might be possible to cut the existing Front seal away from its side legs, and similarly cut the replacement Front seal after clearing away all remaining rubber from underneath the front edge of the Fixed Glass panel. I would say, before attempting any of this, it would be prudent to use a feeler gage to assess how much clearance or compression-on-the-seal exists between the bottom of the glass panel and the metal rooftop. If the double-sided-taped seal cannot be freely inserted and affixed underneath the front edge of the Fixed Glass panel, then I expect, services of a professional glass installer may be needed - at a much higher cost. Good luck! Roof Opening Panel Glass — Rear Fixed - Removal and Installation - 2009 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Roof Opening Panel — Exploded View Illustrations - 2009 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

@chr8990 My schedule is much the same. • Oil - Full Synthetic (5k) - same • Brake Fluid (40K) - 2 years • Transmission Flush (30K) - 45K • Coolant Flush (45K) - 2 to 3 years • Spark Plug replacement/Tune Up (45K) - same • PTU (30K) - same • RDU (30K - same time as PTU) - same • I have a catch can on mine - I have the same JLT catch can

This is my maintenance schedule: • Oil - Full Synthetic (5k) • Brake Fluid (40K) • Transmission Flush (30K) • Coolant Flush (45K) • Spark Plug replacement/Tune Up (45K) • PTU (30K) • RDU (30K - same time as PTU) • I have a catch can on mine: https://www.jlosc.com/jl-3-0-oil-separator-passenger-side-2015-2020-edge-sport-st-lincoln-mkx-2-7l-ecoboost/ • I'll still have the dealer do a The Works Plus Package that includes a treatment of BG 44K once every 3 oil changes

I got it! It was the switch pack on the steering wheel needing to be changed out! Adaptive cruise works with stop & go and lane centering!

Here is some interesting information: A big thank you Haz for this! Power Transfer Unit - Description and Operation - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2022-2024 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf