akirby

That order guide is old and could have been updated already. I'm sure they're planning to offer the 22s but there may have been a supply problem. Won't know until the official build and price arrives (or someone posts the final order guide).

Check the oil to make sure it wasn't overfilled and go ahead and check the tire pressure. Use the computer display to check your mileage on the highway at 55-60 mph. You only need to drive it for a few minutes on a semi level stretch to get a good idea of what it is capable of doing on the highway.

Maybe they didn't reinstall the gps antenna correctly?

That's just below invoice. Assuming the rebates are accurate that's a good price.

Check your tire pressure. What speed do you drive on the highway?

It's the green lit button next to the radio buttons. But you can't shut off the engine while it's moving without holding the button down.

Nothing to add - just wanted to say thank you for spelling "braking" correctly........

It was quoted earlier. Here is the report. Read it and come to your own conclusions. I'm not going to continue arguing about it. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov%2FPubs%2F811029.pdf&ei=W7O_VPX2J4OxyQS2j4GQDw&usg=AFQjCNE6xyYLr-dzq4M0N7WUsrTXo-FqaA

I don't know why batteries are testing good when they're really bad, but I really think you need to just replace the battery.

That study also showed NO reduction in accidents for cars. How do you explain that?

That's not the point. The assertion was made that Ford redesigns the part to be cheaper after a couple of years production and that simply doesn't make sense because they're always looking to make every part as cheaply as possible.

Now they will remove content sometimes keeping the base price or option price the same. But that's different.

Most of that cost savings is done up front when the parts are first designed. They're not going to make them more expensive just to cut them later. If they can be cut and done more cheaply then they will be from day one. So there just isn't any more savings to be had. What usually happens is they have to go back and re-engineer some parts for added durability - adding cost.

The battery could be bad. Sitting on a dealer's lot the vehicle doesn't get started and the battery can go dead. This can lead to a bad cell. If you don't find any other cause you could try replacing the battery.

I didn't say I was against them, nor am I being obtuse. Show me statistics that show a statistically valid benefit and I'll buy it. Right now the only statistics say they don't help.

How old is the battery? A flaky battery can cause all sorts of weird problems.

Thank the government and CAFE for that one.

That's not really true any more. If anything later parts are usually improved, not cheapened.

I just calculated that it can change by 1-2 mph over the life of your tire just due to treadwear alone. So it's never going to be more accurate than that.

It will also do it more aggressively if you're coasting and tap the brakes. This helps to maintain speed when going down long hills.

It's normal. DFSO is deceleration fuel shut off and it cuts engine power to save fuel while coasting. My Fusion does the same thing. Check your tire pressure. Low tire pressure will make it worse. Try adding 2-3 psi above the mfr recommendation - seems to help a little.

Other reports say that the displayed digital speed is actually 1-2 mph slower than actual speed and it's done on purpose for the reasons we just stated. So it's possible your speedometer is accurate with respect to actual speed and the digital display is lower. You can test it with a handheld GPS or do the old manual calculation using mile markers and a stopwatch. It could be a calibration issue with the speedo but it could also just be normal. It's not that they don't build crap properly and don't care - it's a complicated thing to sync up so many digital and analog devices AND don't forget they have to account for different tire diameters based on simple things like treadwear over time and inflation pressures not to mention people who replace their tires with a slightly different size. When you're a mfr building millions of cars per year you have to take all that into account. It's never as simple as some people like to make it.

Without getting into a pissing match, I don't see how you could personally witness anything that confirms the effectiveness of DRLs. Just because you see a car with DRLs doesn't mean you would not have seen them without DRLs. And not seeing a car without DRLs doesn't mean you would have seen them with DRLs. Statistics are the only way to know for sure if you really care. But I would never tell someone not to use DRLs if they want them. I suspect LEDs will make them a defacto standard on most vehicles anyway which will be much more stylish and not burn out the headlamps prematurely.

That's exactly true for BEVs like the Leaf. I see Leafs with no lights more often than any other vehicle for just that reason - conserving that precious 80 mile battery range.

That's a normal variation. It's impossible to get the analog needle calibrated perfectly on every vehicle. Ford errs on the side of the speedo showing a faster speed than actual which is safer than if it showed a slower speed. But it's normal.